We went to Albania in August 2025.
Our itinerary included adventure (sporty activities, site visits), naps on the beach interspersed with swims, incredible natural sites, and a bit of culture.
I booked all our accommodations on Booking.com. Note: almost all places ask to be paid in cash!! You can obviously withdraw from banks, but the fees are pretty high. Luckily, we had plenty of cash, and the country is very safe. You can pay in euros most of the time, which avoids exchange fees.
We started in Tirana. I’d read a really interesting post about Albania’s bunkers (link in my profile). We chose to visit Bunk’Art with a guide from the agency that wrote the post. It was fascinating—not only to better understand the country’s history but also because her grandfather was repressed by the regime, and she shared her family’s experience with us.
Bunkers are everywhere! In Tirana, Bunk’Art is the most interesting and largest. You’ll see the dictator Enver Hoxha’s office, where he would’ve taken refuge in case of an attack on the country. Bring a sweater—it’s really cold in the underground tunnels and their huge corridors.
You can visit other bunkers around the country, in Tirana and elsewhere. Almost all are just abandoned.
The cable car up Mount Dajti is right next to Bunk’Art. The view is stunning—you realize Tirana is so close to the mountains and the sea... But otherwise, it’s not that exciting for older teens (17 and 19) and their parents.
We picked up a rental car in Tirana—it’d be ours for the next three weeks. We used Goalbania’s agency to avoid any hassles. First, there aren’t many cars available in Albania in summer. Second, French credit cards can be a nightmare abroad. So we preferred to sort that out in advance.
After Tirana, we headed to Permet. Just a heads-up: the roads are in great condition except in the mountains. And Albanian drivers aren’t stressful to deal with. Though you might suddenly encounter a herd of goats crossing the road—haha—but if you’re not going too fast, it’s fine.
In Permet, I’d been dreaming of rafting on the Vjosa, one of Europe’s last wild rivers. And we did it with a local agency! It’s beautiful, accessible to everyone, not too physical but still a bit lively—just how we like it. You can even jump into the river in some spots.
In Permet, we also hiked through a canyon and visited a lovely little church.
And we took a workshop to make their local culinary pride: gliko. It’s a jam with whole fruits inside. We’d seen it on Goalbania’s site, and it was really fun. We were with a family where the secret to making gliko has been passed down for generations...
Next, we headed to Gjirokastër. A city we loved: its old traditional houses (Skendulli and Zekate), its grand castle, the Ali Pasha Bridge. Along the way, we stopped for artisanal ice cream at a little shop run by a grandmother who’s been making it herself for ages.
One afternoon, my husband *had* to go to the coast in the south, to Ksamil (he’d read it was better than Sarandë). Verdict: we didn’t like it. Parking is a nightmare, the beaches are super noisy and crowded. The sea is packed with jet skis, boats, pedalos, and ropes. Avoid it.
On the other hand, we really liked Himarë, where we went next. We stayed at a campsite where we rented tents with mattresses and sheets inside. Right by the sea, on a low cliff (about 2 meters high). You can hear the waves at night... Magical!! To swim, you either jump straight into the sea (almost from the tent) or climb down a ladder, which you’ll need to climb back up to get out.
I was a little worried the campsite wouldn’t be very comfortable, so afterward, I’d booked a small place in Gjilek. Turns out, the place was really tiny (one room for four, no kitchen) and pretty expensive (over 100 € a night). We’d drive to the beach or restaurants—it’s on a steep slope, so not very accessible. Parking near the sea is tricky. But the (private) beaches were nice—we’d rent an umbrella not too close to the music and spend the day there. We also went to a wilder beach, harder to reach, via a long path. Behind the beach, there’s an amazing canyon where we’d sometimes climb using ropes (already in place, no need to bring your own) over big boulders rolled around by the stream, which must swell a lot in spring.
So, the sea in Albania: it’s nice if you like swimming and relaxing, but it’s not the most interesting part of the country. There are so many other amazing things to see and discover—so many stunning sites! Maybe an agency could’ve helped us find more practical accommodations and avoid Ksamil and its surroundings.
We left the coast to head to the beautiful city of Berat and its "thousand windows." We explored the city, its fortress, and its icon museum.
Then we discovered the Osum Canyon—it’s incredible. The view from the top is breathtaking. And at the bottom, it’s magical. There’s little water in summer, so rafting isn’t an option. We weren’t tempted by the big-tube descent offered by an agency—it looked fun, but the group had 40 people. We preferred hiking on our own as a family of four. We scouted the area on Google Maps... and found where to descend. We walked in the water, then it rose to our waists, then our shoulders... We weren’t moving fast. And how to get back up?? Eventually, we followed a group with a guide—the path was hard to find.
After that unforgettable hike, we visited the Bogovë Waterfalls. It’s pretty, and we swam, but the water was *really* cold.
We passed through Tirana again and then headed to Shkodër. We explored a bit—its charming little streets, the Rozafa Fortress. There’s a tiny museum where you can see *huge* Ottoman stone cannonballs. And they tell you the (charming) story of the young woman who was walled alive in the castle’s foundations to ensure its strength...
Shkodër is mostly a stopover to head into the mountains and discover Theth. Our goal: hiking in the Valbona Valley, from Valbona to Theth. We organized the trip ourselves, without an agency, but it took some time to figure everything out. So I’ll save you the trouble—haha. Book your tickets on the Komanilakeferry website. The ticket includes:
🙂 minibus transfer from downtown Shkodër to Koman
🙂 ferry ticket from Koman to Fierze. This ferry ride is *gorgeous*—between mountain slopes covered in pine trees, and sometimes a little house with a few fields...
🙂 minibus ticket from Fierze to Valbona. Now you’re in the mountains! The minibus drops you off near your accommodation—pick one as close as possible to the start of the hike (if that’s your goal!). The ones at the far end of the village add up to 1.5 hours of walking. Our choice: Guesthouse Dioni. The host is really lovely, it’s in the woods, and it’s basic but great.
After a day of hiking, we arrived in Theth. What beautiful mountains! Then we explored Theth and the surrounding area. It’s pretty busy, but you can still enjoy the Blue Eye of Theth and its swim. It’s *so* cold! But so beautiful!
🙂 minibus ticket from Theth back to Shkodër.
After a night in Shkodër, we drove to Kepi i Rodonit. A guidebook (I forget which one) raved about its beauty. And it *is* beautiful!
But the view is ruined by plastic bottles and other trash in the bushes, along the paths, and of course on the beaches. The only peaceful spot: the private beach at Kepi i Rodonit, which is cleaned. You can rent an umbrella and have lunch there. That’s where we spent our last few days—very relaxing.
In short... Albania turned out to be perfect for us and our teens!
Hi,
I'm looking for a car rental company in Tirana for September. Does anyone have a rental company to recommend? I saw that it's possible to rent from private individuals through a platform that groups them (rentfromlocals/al). Has anyone used this method, and if so, is it cost-effective, reliable, and what guarantees are there?
Also, I plan to drive through the Albanian mountains (Valbonë, Kukës, Përmet, Pogradec...). Can anyone tell me about the general condition of these roads? Is a 4x4 vehicle necessary, or would a car with a slightly raised undercarriage (like a Dacia Sandero Stepway) be enough?
Bruno
Hi there,
Here’s a recap of a trek through the Balkans covering three countries: Albania, Montenegro, and Kosovo. I was with a friend, and we didn’t do the full route (only one day in Kosovo).
It was a wonderful trek through snow-capped mountains and vast flower-filled meadows, meeting incredibly welcoming people.
At the end of the travel journal, I’ll share what I loved and what I liked less.
Day 1: Flight from Paris-Beauvais to Tirana with Wizz Air.
Since Albania isn’t part of Europe when it comes to phone service (at least not yet! :-)), we had to buy a physical SIM card—otherwise, the bill would’ve been sky-high if we’d used our French plan! We got one from Vodafone AL at the airport. You can buy online before leaving with a virtual SIM (e-SIM) for compatible phones, so you don’t have to swap cards. But given the uncertainty about choosing a plan online, we preferred buying one directly at Tirana Airport. Cost: 31 € for 100 GB. That’s way too much—100 GB is overkill. For 40 GB, it’s 27 €, and the plan lasts 21 days. The price difference isn’t huge, and it was cheaper than online. This plan covers all the countries along the Balkan range.
Money tip: All guesthouses and accommodations accept euros. The local currency in Albania is the LEK. In Montenegro, it’s the euro. Bank fees for withdrawing money from an ATM in Albania are pretty steep: 8 € for a withdrawal of 600–700 LEK (about 200 €)! So it’s better to withdraw cash (euros) in France. Oh, and we booked all our accommodations before leaving, but payment is always in cash. Budget around 400–500 € for 9 days of trekking.
Then, a transfer the same day to Shköder, about a 2-hour bus ride. Cost: 10 € per person. Tickets bought directly on the bus. We spent the night in Shköder at a very clean guesthouse, Open Doors B&B. It had a small balcony overlooking the city.
I really liked Shköder, especially its pedestrian street lined with restaurants and lit up at night. It’s a great place to stroll and eat. The food isn’t expensive—two big salads and two beers: 14 € :-) . Fruit prices are also very reasonable: 3 € for a kilo of cherries, compared to 9–10 € in France.
Religions coexist peacefully in these countries—Catholics and Muslims. From our balcony, my friend heard the call to prayer for the first time, coming from one of the city’s mosques.
Day 2: Bus ride to Theth, about 1,100 meters in elevation gain, the starting point for our hike the next day.
The trip took 2 hours and 40 minutes with a break in the middle. The bus was affordable, but taxis also make the trip—though they’re very expensive.
We slept in the heights of Theth at a new guesthouse, "Mountain Vista Shkafi," with an amazing view.
The family was adorable. The husband is a handyman and built almost everything himself. Their baby is named "Sky"—such a cute name, right? :-) Throughout the trek, I found the guesthouses very clean, and the hosts think of everything—no need to bring soap or shampoo; they provide it.
Lunch in Theth at a traditional restaurant on the main road. We tried "Tave Dheu," an Albanian dish with beef, cabbage (very common), and cottage cheese. Delicious but not quite filling enough. For dessert, a honey cake that was perfectly moist—such a treat! Desserts like this are rare; sometimes they serve watermelon instead.
We took a small private bus for 5 € to the "Blue Eye" parking lot, then walked for about 45 minutes to reach a stunning natural site—a kind of lagoon with incredibly blue water. The bravest can swim, but the water’s freezing!
That evening, we dined at "La Montagne Blanche"—excellent! A delightful mix of grilled meats with potatoes and grilled peppers. Some watermelon slices (which I’m not a fan of) and the famous Raki, a brandy served in Turkey and the Balkans! It was my first time drinking brandy "bottoms up." 😉
Hi there, we’re a young couple and we’d love to go to the Blue Eye (Syri i Kalter) between today (26/06/26) and tomorrow (27/06/26).
Is anyone heading there and could give us a ride? We’re super friendly!
Thanks so much!
My boyfriend and I are going there for just 9 days, including the two travel days… It’s not much, but oh well!
Looking at prices online, I get the impression everything’s more expensive than I thought 😅 So, I wanted to get your feedback on a few things:
* Is hitchhiking common, easy, and generally safe in Albania?
* Is it possible to find day-to-day accommodations without booking ahead? If so, are they usually cheaper than the ones you find online?
* Is wild camping allowed or at least tolerated?
If any of you have traveled there recently, I’d love all the tips and great deals you’ve got!
We're leaving for Albania on June 18th. When I validated the flight tickets with Wizz Air on Booking, I only put my son's first name but forgot to include his other three first names on the ticket.
On the passport: SURNAME: Dupont, FIRST NAMES: toto titi tutu tata
On the flight ticket: SURNAME: Dupont, FIRST NAME: toto
I can't seem to reach anyone at Wizz Air to get an answer.
Booking and Wizz Air's chat say I need to modify it, but ChatGPT says it should be fine.
I wanted to know if he can fly like this or if I need to change his ticket?
(It costs 140 €, I know I shouldn't have made a mistake🙁)
Hi everyone! 😊
I’m looking for a place in Albania to go scuba diving with my boyfriend. We’ve never done it before and we’d love to try this activity.
Thanks so much! 🌺🌺
We’re a young couple planning our first trip to Albania from June 23, 2026, to July 2, 2026. We have a pretty tight budget and want to make the most of this amazing country without breaking the bank.
We’re looking for all the advice you can give to help us plan our stay:
* What are the must-see places to visit?
* Which cities or villages are really worth the detour?
* What natural sites, hikes, canyons, springs, or viewpoints do you recommend?
* Do you know of any free, uncrowded, or particularly beautiful beaches?
* Where can we responsibly observe or swim with sea turtles?
* What are the most beautiful beaches on the Albanian Riviera that are accessible on a small budget?
* What budget-friendly accommodations (hotels, hostels, homestays, campgrounds) do you recommend?
* What are the best ways to get around between different regions at a low cost?
* Do you know of any reliable and affordable agencies for renting a vehicle (car, scooter, or motorcycle)? What are the average rates at the end of June, and which rental companies do you recommend or advise against?
* Is it better to rent a vehicle right when we arrive or stick to local buses and minibuses to keep costs down?
* Which restaurants or local specialties offer the best value for money?
* Are there any free or low-cost activities we shouldn’t miss?
* Which places do you think are overrated or can be skipped when you’re short on time and money?
* What practical tips would you have wished you knew before your first trip to Albania?
We’d also love any 10-day itineraries that you particularly enjoyed, along with your budget estimates for accommodation, meals, and transportation.
We’re open to off-the-beaten-path spots and local tips. If you have any secret addresses, hidden beaches, favorite accommodations, or mistakes to avoid, we’d love to hear about them! 😊
We're back. It's still a bit tough to get precise info, so here's a quick trip report!
A good starting point is Shkoder, a really pleasant city. You can easily explore Shkoder itself in a day or two.
Two accessible spots: Valbona and Theth.
In both cases, local travel agencies in Shkoder or online offer round-trip or one-way access packages. Super handy, especially for Valbona.
Valbona and Theth are both very steep! There aren’t many easy hikes for less sporty folks (like me!).
Valbona: The highlight is the amazing 2.5-hour boat ride across Lake Koman. There are day trips from Shkoder, but you’ll only get a short tour of the lake. The best option is to do the full crossing—so spend a night in Valbona (or two if you want to hike in the valley) and return.
Theth is deeply nestled in the mountains. The village at the end of the valley, which is a dead end, has lots of hotels, but they’re pricey. Other hostels are scattered along the mountainside road, but it’s a steep climb down to the village or to the start of the two easy hikes (waterfalls and the Blue Eye). For us, it was a one-hour descent (and ascent!). It’s fine if you have a car; otherwise, keep an eye out for a taxi (cheap) or try hitchhiking—it works really well.
Access from Shkoder to Theth is through an agency. The road is in great condition, and you can also rent a car for 2-3 days in Shkoder. If we did it again, that’s the option we’d choose.
We didn’t do the trek and returned to Shkoder each time. I can’t speak to its difficulty, but we were there in late May, and even experienced hikers had given up because of heavy rain and snow.
Hope this helps! It’s a stunning region you shouldn’t miss.
A little trip report from an 11-day journey to Albania at the end of April 2026, with two friends in their early sixties and beyond...
Our route: Berat, Gjirokastër, Himarë, Tirana
Here are some opinions, tips, and great deals to share:
Flight Round-trip Beauvais-Tirana: Ryanair, 260 € with checked baggage (20 kg) and seat selection. Flight was fine and on time. 2h 30min flight.
Exchange: 1 € was worth 95 lek in April 2026. We were advised to exchange in the airport hall at the Illiria counter (98 lek outside the security zone), saying we wouldn’t find a better rate. However, the exchange rate was 93 lek for 1 euro, while in the city it was 95...
Car rental at Tirana airport for 9 days via Booking.com: 144 € (56 € for the car rental and 88 € for optional full insurance deductible waiver).
Wheego agency: the car was fine, but be careful when signing the contract—they tried to convince us that the insurance taken through Booking didn’t cover everything and insisted we take their own insurance for 250 €... We refused.
After reading about driving in Tirana, instead of starting our trip by visiting the capital, we decided to head straight to Berat upon arrival and return the car at the end of the trip to explore the city on foot. This turned out to be a great choice!
Accommodations: All our stays were booked via Booking.com. Everyone prefers to be paid in euros and in cash—they mention this when booking.
Berat: 2-hour drive from the airport.
Accommodation: Vila Arben Elezi: 135 € for 3 nights with breakfast and private parking. The room was decent and clean but a bit dark, located slightly below ground level near the parking. However, the breakfast on the rooftop was excellent, especially with the stunning view of the "city of a thousand windows." Great location.
Berat was our favorite—there are lovely walks through the different neighborhoods on both sides of the river, each with a very different vibe. The citadel visit is also fascinating, as it’s like a small town within the fortress.
The walk along the river is pleasant, with plenty of restaurant choices. Other restaurants in the old town are also very nice. The White House Restaurant, on the first floor along the road, is good and offers a great view of the Gorica district.
Gjirokastër:
Accommodation: Te Ajdini Guest House: 120 € for 3 nights with breakfast. A private home stay. There’s free parking just before entering the city, a 5-minute walk from the accommodation, which is very convenient since the cobblestone streets are narrow and parking is tricky. Yes, it’s a climb to get to the place, but everything in this city is uphill... The room was bright and clean. Breakfast was very good, hearty, and served in the courtyard with a view of the castle. The guesthouse is a 5-minute walk from the city center (the bazaar) but in a quiet area.
Restaurants: Rrapi and Kujtimi—good and affordable with their little pergolas.
The old town of Gjirokastër is charming but very touristy, with streets packed with souvenir shops and restaurant tables and chairs. Lots of people.
-The bunker visit (near the tourist office) is very interesting: Cold War Tunnel.
The castle offers a beautiful view of the city.
-Visit to the Ottoman house Skenduli: very well done. Don’t forget to climb the ladder facing a trapdoor in the ceiling to see the roof’s framework—it’s like a forest of beams: impressive!
-The bridge Ura e Ali Pasha: A steep 45-minute climb from the city to the site is worth it, but once you reach the viewpoint (which is stunning), you have to go back down a path to reach the bridge. You can drive to the viewpoint, but parking is very tricky.
Around Gjirokastër:
-Just outside the city: Lake Liqeni i Viroit: a nice, ordinary-looking lake, but at the end, there’s a natural spring making the water crystal clear and a brilliant blue—really spectacular, like photos of Blue Eye near Sarandë.
-Drive to Përmet along the gorges: beautiful viewpoints along the way and lovely countryside.
Himarë:
Accommodation: Vila Kosteli: 120 € for 2 nights with breakfast—slightly overpriced for this type of place but very close to a small beach and not far from the promenade with all the restaurants. Private parking, but very tight (4 cars on a tiny lot along the road). The "sea view" room is a bit obstructed by the building across the street. However, the rooftop breakfast view is beautiful. Friendly staff.
Himarë is a pleasant seaside resort, quite calm (but it was April...). There’s a cute promenade with restaurants along the beach. The castle on the heights of Himarë is worth a visit.
Around Himarë:
-Qeparo is worth a quick stop, but Qeparo village is really worth the detour: a village lost in the heights after a scenic drive up from the coastal road—narrow but well-maintained. Beautiful view from the top and a charming village.
-The Big Bunker and Llogora Panorama: take a right turn several kilometers after Dhermi—a road that climbs steeply from the start... A breathtaking winding road that reaches 900 meters in altitude. The view is stunning.
-Several small villages between Dhermi and Himarë are worth a quick stop.
-Porto Palermo Castle is somewhat disappointing.
Tirana:
Taxi from Tirana airport to the city center: 15 € with electric taxis (Green Taxi, Bee Taxi, Do Taxi).
Accommodation: Hotel Nevi Apartment: 63 € for 2 nights. A private apartment in an older building but very clean and well-equipped, with a kitchen and small enclosed balcony.
Great welcome and contact—the owner even booked a taxi for our departure. Very well located, close to the main square, shops, and restaurants. A small supermarket nearby is perfect for stocking up on breakfast supplies.
The city is lively and dynamic, with plenty of green spaces and promenades. Buildings are popping up everywhere, often with surprising architecture—like a building shaped like a face, a huge golden cube, and many others under construction.
-Sky Tower: at the top, a rotating bar offers a 360° view of the city and its buildings. Drinks are a bit pricier than usual, but it’s totally worth it (6 € for a beer or a glass of white wine, 3 € for coffee). We were there for sunset, and it was amazing! A must-do. Arrive early, as it fills up quickly.
-The House of Leaves: a house used for secret surveillance and interrogations during the dictatorship... A great way to learn about the surveillance systems of that era.
-Bunk’Art 2: a bunker in the heart of the city—very interesting, covering the dictatorship period and its system...
-The Pazari i Ri Bazaar: the new bazaar district. The large hall is worth a visit, but souvenir prices are often higher than elsewhere... The area is nice.
Restaurant: Kastrati Restaurant—a bit like a canteen with lots of traditional dishes. It’s on the first floor of a building. Excellent value for money, and the waitress explains the dishes in French.
That’s a little overview of our trip and my personal impressions!
Albania is a beautiful and pleasant country to visit.
If you have any questions, feel free to ask!
Hi,
I'm heading to Greece via Albania soon. Does anyone have info on transportation from Gjirokastër to Ioannina?
Which company, fares, and schedules—it's not very clear with Google.
Hi, has anyone recently bought Primus or Butagaz gas, possibly puncture-style, in Dubrovnik or the surrounding area? Same question for Albania... thanks. aichatou
I just booked a flight and hotel (Mövenpick in Durrës) for my husband and me for late May.
We’re thinking of spending (I haven’t really decided yet) one day in Tirana, one day around Berat, and one day around Gjirokastër and the Albanian Riviera.
We were planning to hire a private driver for the day. I asked the hotel if they could find one for me... they brushed me off! Yet I usually do this for all my trips.
Would you have a name, a company, or someone I could contact?
Otherwise, is it "dangerous"—road conditions and Albanian driving—to rent a car?
hi,
I’m planning a trip to Albania in a camper van, most likely between May, June, and early July (2027), for about 60 days. On the way down, I’ll go as far as Bari (or Brindisi) and cross by ferry, and on the way back, I’ll go through the former Yugoslavia (or maybe take the return ferry?).
Has anyone been there recently? What are the roads like, the must-see spots, and any general tips you can share?
There’ll probably be two of us traveling together.
Thanks
At the risk of drawing some harsh criticism, I’ll admit we were really disappointed: sure, this trip—taken at the end of September—was short (a week), but we’d planned this little road trip (1,000km by car) as a first scouting mission. We won’t be going back anytime soon!
First mistake: we flew into Tirana (from Marseille) when it would’ve been better to fly to Corfu and rent a car in the south of the country instead of staying in the capital, which frankly isn’t all that interesting.
From Tirana, we headed east toward Lin, by Lake Ohrid (a very poor region facing Macedonia), then to Korça, which guidebooks call "the most pleasant city in Albania." From there, we drove to Gjirokastra, an old Ottoman town (170km of mountain roads that took us nearly 5 hours...), then further south to Butrint, near Greece.
The goal of these stops? To visit UNESCO World Heritage sites. In Lin, 6th-century mosaics; in Korça, a remarkable icon museum; in Gjirokastra, the citadel.
At Butrint, we fled at the sight of all the tour buses parked in front of "this major archaeological site in the Mediterranean" and headed back north!
The entire Adriatic coast is undergoing severe overdevelopment: developers are destroying the coastline to attract even more tourists (11 million visited in 2024, while Albania only has 3 million residents).
We preferred to leave the coastal road (in excellent condition, a future highway) to visit Berat, an Ottoman town topped by a citadel. Our favorite spot.
Why were we so disappointed? Villages without charm, outskirts of major cities in advanced decay, trash along the roads... The weight of the communist dictatorship and forced industrialization over forty years is still felt everywhere. The country is recovering but betting on tourism. The result? Newly built villas for the newly rich, beaches near the capital already polluted...
Too bad, because the natural landscapes are often stunning, the locals are welcoming (young people learn English, though their parents speak little), and prices remain very reasonable—except in the capital.
We’d chosen to stay with locals as much as possible, but like in Croatia, families are turning their homes into guest houses (~35 € per night, hearty breakfast included).
Renting the car cost us 312 € for a week (with an international rental company—it’s probably cheaper with a local one, but I prefer understanding the contract I sign), and we cautiously took the optional insurance.
Just so you know: Albanians drive fast, seem unfamiliar with traffic rules, overtake before curves, ignore yellow lines, and rarely use turn signals...)
Hi,
We’d like to spend about twenty days in Albania next July. We’re two women traveling together and we’re thinking of renting a small car. Does that sound reasonable, or should we avoid it?
Thanks for your advice.
Hi,
We’re thinking of going to Albania at the end of May, early June 2025. We’re a bit hesitant because the timeline feels tight for planning this trip. We’re considering about ten days there. Does that seem like enough time for a first-time visit?
Thanks.
Albania is still a relatively new destination, but with its natural beauty and cultural richness, it won’t stay under the radar for long.
Would it be possible to organize a discovery trip with a local agency (a reliable one, of course)...
Thanks
Hi there,
I’m ready to set off on the Peaks of the Balkans trek from June 18 to July 3.
I’m used to long distances, elevation gain, and self-sufficiency.
The last thing holding me back is overcrowding.
Have any of you done it recently? Could you give me some insight on that and any other tips that might be useful?
I’ll be arriving in Tirana, and any advice on getting to Theth would be a huge help too.
Thanks for your replies.
Alain
Hi, I'm looking for experienced hikers to join me on the Peaks of the Balkans (Albania, Montenegro) for a 10-day trek this spring. I already have the full itinerary planned.
We’re renting a car to explore Albania in September/October. We’ll start in the north and finish in the south. We’d love to drop off the car near Saranda and take the ferry to Corfu on foot, but it seems we’ll have to return it to Tirana since there’s nowhere else to drop it off. From there, we’d like to take a direct flight to Corfu, but I can’t find any direct flights... I really don’t want to connect through Athens and backtrack when we’re so close! Any suggestions on what to do?
Thanks,
Carole (Canada)
I’m in Albania for 2 weeks, specifically in Durrës, with my daughter and her friend (both 14), and I was planning to mostly use public transport. But I’m worried it’ll limit our sightseeing and exploring around the country.
I’d like to rent a car but I’m not sure how to go about it since I don’t speak the language, and English isn’t always enough to understand all the details and rules around renting a vehicle.
Any advice would be greatly appreciated!
We’re planning a trip to Albania. We’ve heard that driving there can be challenging. What do you think?
I’m also looking for interesting spots to take black-and-white photos—think local people and typical landscapes in the region. Any places you’d recommend?
Thanks a bunch!
Hi there, we're planning to spend a few days in Corfu and then a week in the surrounding area, and we were wondering if southern Albania is worth visiting. Could we explore it in a week from Corfu?
Thanks
I was expecting the worst when I went to discover the Blue Eye site between Gjirokastër and Ksamil—I definitely got my money’s worth...
What a terrible idea to turn a stunning natural wonder into a concrete cash machine!
Okay, so they built a parking lot and made it paid—that’s fine.
And protecting the natural spring with a wooden barrier to keep it from turning into a public swimming pool makes sense.
But why dig a road all the way up to 10 meters from the site with an excavator?
Why allow a super polluting and stinky little train to run there?
Why let personal motorcycles use it?
Why rent electric scooters or mini motorbikes to cover the 1,500 meters on foot?
I have my answer: greed...
Thankfully, there’s still a trail on the other side that’s been spared from the money grab.
-Jour 1- 29 novembre.
L'ATR à hélices venant de Belgrade me dépose à 2 heures du matin sur le tarmac de l'aéroport de Tirana. Bien entretenu, le bâtiment ne semble pas vieux.
Formalités douanières simples et rapides. Même pas un petit coup de tampon sur le passeport. Récupération du sac tout aussi rapidement et repos sur un banc au sein même de l'aéroport en attendant les premiers départs de bus vers 8 heures du matin. Il y a cependant quelques hôtels proches de la sortie pour ceux que l'idée de passer quelques heures inconfortablement allongés, rebuterait.
Le trajet de l'aéroport au centre ville peut se faire par bus pour 270 leks. Ce serait aux alentours de 2000 leks par taxi. Je n'ai pas vérifié l'information, mais cela me semble excessif.
La Ville, à cette époque de l'année est, surtout en son centre et ses artères principales, joliment décorée de guirlandes électriques. La nuit tombe vers 16h30 et révèle tous ses néons et autres lumières. C'est plutôt joli. Je suis surpris de la propreté qui règne dans les rues. Le nombre d'agences de change et de tourisme m'interroge. Pourquoi y en a t-il autant..?
Facile de parcourir à pied la ville (le centre)et de découvrir les principaux points d'intérêt. Un réseau de bus urbains dessert toute la Ville. La température est basse et ne dépasse pas les 10 degrés. Un petit vent sec rend l'air vif et pique un peu les doigts et le nez. En plein centre, ma guest-house m'offrira une chambre spartiate, froide, mais d'une propreté impeccable pour 10 euros sans petit déjeuner. (Andreas Guest- house). Accueil chaleureux. Pour petits budgets.
-Jour 2- 30 novembre 2016
Départ pour KUKES à 9 heures du matin d'une des deux gares routières de Tirana.
L'une desservant les villes du Nord et l'autre les villes du sud. CQFD..! Mais d'aucuns affirment qu'il y a plus que 2 gares..! À celle-ci, on peut boire un café en attendant.
Nombreux bus, toutes les deux heures, à partir de 7 heures le matin jusqu'à 18 heures. Durée du trajet 3 heures pour 400 leks. La ville de KUKES n'offre que peu d'intérêt. Je saute l'étape. En plus, malgré le soleil, il fait glacial.
Changement de mini bus pour PESKHOPI - Trajet extrêmement cher car 800 leks pour moins de 3 heures de transport. Quasiment un seul mini bus à effectuer cette route donc pas de concurrence, ce qui explique le prix prohibitif pour une si courte durée. À cette époque de l'année la route qui frôle le plus haut pic dAlbanie offre de très jolis points de vue. Pics enneigés. Se mettre à droite dans le bus pour bénéficier d'une meilleure vue. Une des routes les plus jolies du pays avec celle de la côte entre SARANDE et VLORA
PESKHOPI pourrait justifier une halte pour la nuit. 4 ou 5 hôtels corrects. Je décide cependant de rentrer sur Tirana. 170 Kms d'une route parfois en mauvais état et 4 heures de trajet. 600 leks par personne. Très sinueuse, les personnes souffrant du mal de voiture vomissent. Des sachets plastique sont prévus à cet effet.
La nuit tombant vers 16h30, l'arrivée se fera de nuit à Tirana. Ce qui permet d'apprécier les nombreuses décorations et guirlandes lumineuses. La nuit, Tirana semble plus belle. Il fait à peine plus de 5 degrés. Content de remonter dans le bus urbain qui nous ramène en centre ville. 40 leks par personne. Évidemment beaucoup moins cher que le taxi qui demande 20 fois plus.
-Jour 3- 1er décembre.
Trajet Tirana - POGRADEC. 3 heures de route dont une partie d'autoroute en construction. 600 leks avec la voiture d'un particulier qui fait le trajet jusqu'à KORÇA.
Stop pour la nuit dans cette petite bourgade au bord du lac Ohrid, frontière avec la Macédoine. Nuit à l'hôtel POGRADECI en bordure de lac. Chambre double à 25 euros avec petit déjeuner. Excellent rapport qualité prix.
La Ville sous le soleil est très agréable et mérite bien une halte d'une demi- journée.
Jour 4- 2 décembre 2016.
Départ à 9 heures pour KORÇA. L'arrêt de bus (fourgons Mercedes) est près de l'église orthodoxe. Le trajet dure 2 heures d'une route qui n'offre pas un intérêt majeur sans être laide pour autant. Le prix est de 200 leks.
L'arrêt à KORÇA se fait en dehors du centre. Il faut marcher un kilomètre environ pour atteindre celui- ci. En pleine rénovation, ce centre ville promet d'être un bel endroit.
Un nouvel hôtel, dans une cour privative, qui à mon sens sera plein de charme, devrait ouvrir en mai 2017. En plein c˛ur du quartier rénové, ce sera certainement une place de choix.
Le centre ville, concentré sur un bon km2 offre une belle rue piétonnière qui débouche sur la plus grande Eglise orthodoxe d'Albanie. Cette rue, bordée de terrasses de café offre un point de chute agréable pour une petite pause.
L'endroit d'où partent les bus est situé dans cette zone du centre ville. Beaucoup de départs pour de nombreux endroits du pays. Pas de rabatteurs en Albanie mais on vous renseignera avec gentillesse.
Pour ma destination, PERMET, un seul bus par jour qui part à 13 heures. Si c'est votre projet de périple, il vaut mieux arriver avant le départ de ce bus... Faute d'avoir une place. Possibilité d'attendre au "Bar Kafe RIGEL " où vous pourrez vous restaurer d'une bonne soupe locale accompagnée de tranches d'un excellent pain local et d'un riz pilaf. Le tout pour une somme modique. Vue sur votre bus, ce qui pour les anxieux, est un petit plus..!
Le trajet pour PERMET dure un peu plus de 4 heures et coûte 800 leks dans un antique fourgon Mercedes assez peu confortable. " Tani Travel ".
Il vaut mieux se placer sur la droite du bus. (Idéalement ce serait même opportun de faire le trajet dans l'autre sens afin d'éviter d'avoir continuellement le soleil dans les yeux). La route étroite, toute en lacets serrés, parfois en mauvais état, offre à certains endroits du parcours des très beaux panoramas. Les personnes victimes du mal de voiture auront très vite le tournis et peineront, comme certains passagers, à retenir leur repas du midi.!!
À PERMET, mon hotel, réservé sur Booking, le RAMIZ, est un peu excentré et sans charme. Bien que l'accueil soit sympathique et le petit déjeuner correct, je ne le conseille pas particulièrement.
À éviter aussi le restaurant qui jouxte l'hôtel PERMET. Ils ne semblent pas avoir compris que le communisme n'existe plus. Service lent et nourriture sans attrait.
L'hôtel ALVERO est plus cher mais mieux situé car en plein centre. Le gérant, Nikola, connaît très bien la FRANCE et parle parfaitement notre langue.
Pas grand chose à faire à PERMET mais c'est une bonne étape.
Jour 5 - 3 décembre 2016.
Départ à 8h30 en face du "Café DÉJÀ VU " pour GJIROKASTRE. Compter une heure et demie de trajet pour 300 leks. Arrivée en pleine ville a un bon kilomètre du centre de la "vieille ville". Attention, pour s'y rendre à pieds ca grimpe dur. Vingt minutes de marche. Si vous avez un lourd sac, il vaut mieux le savoir.
Lieu privilégié des touristes, la vieille Ville offre trois ou 4 hôtels qui sortent du lot. Le KELENDI 2. Très jolies chambres à 35 euros pour 2 avec petit déjeuner. En surplomb, le KODRA qui est un poil plus cher à 40 euros mais plus chic avec restaurant en terrasse. Belles chambres avec vue imprenable sur la vallée. Plus haut, près de la mosquée, le Gjirokrastra Hotel. Correct également mais pas de restaurant et WiFi laborieux. Les chambres numéro 2 ou 3 sont à privilégier si vous êtes deux. En décembre 2016, c'était 25 euros avec le petit déjeuner. Cet hotel familial est surtout intéressant pour sa situation qui offre un beau point de vue en surplomb de la ville. Les prix varient en fonction de la saison selon les dires du fils du patron. Vérifier sur Booking.com. Ce jeune patron semble avoir bien compris le sens du bizness avec les touristes, mais surtout en sa faveur. Il reste néanmoins sympa.
Dans la vieille ville, quelques restaurants et petites boutiques sans intérêt majeur. Agréables balades à faire à pied dans les petites ruelles pavées. La forteresse qui offre un musée peut se visiter. (visite payante)
L'endroit vaut surtout par son beau point de vue sur la montagne et les alentours.
Mérite une halte d'une demie journée.
Tous ces hôtels sont en plein c˛ur de la " vieille Ville", un quartier en pleine rénovation comme dans beaucoup d'autres villes d'Albanie. Mais la ville basse, faute d'être vraiment attrayante, peut aussi vous offrir de nombreuses possibilités de vous loger.
Jour6- 4 décembre 2016.
Départ vers 9heures pour SARANDE. Le terminal de bus est excentré. Possible d'attendre un véhicule sur la route principale qui mène à SARANDE. Le trajet dure 1h30 et coûte 300 leks. Voiture particulière à 6 personnes. Arrivée centre ville près du parc. Petite ville balnéaire sans attrait particulier. Nombreux hôtels fermés à cette époque de l'année. Point de passage maritime pour l'Italie.
Hotel LINDI. 20 euros pour 2 avec petit déjeuner. Grande chambre et patron cool et très sympa. Inutile de chercher un meilleur rapport qualité - prix.!!!
Cependant, à mon sens, cette ville ne mérite qu'une halte de quelques heures.
Jour7- 5 décembre 2016
Départ pour VLORA à 11h30 au parc en centre ville de SARANDE. Le trajet dure 4 heures et coûte 800 leks pour environ 130 Kms. (le trajet le plus cher jusqu'alors.) La route de montagne longe la côte et offre parfois de superbes panoramas. Attention de bien prendre le bus qui longe la côte. Il y a une route plus directe par les terres.
C'est vraiment un trajet incontournable..!
À ne rater sous aucun prétexte.
La ville de VLORA est en pleine construction comme de nombreuses autres en Albanie. Le front de mer, assez éloigné du centre sera superbe quand il sera terminé. le "CANNES " des Albanais. Pour le reste ce sont des immeubles d'une quinzaine d'étages, totalement neufs qui composent les artères. Pas un charme fou... À part la vieille ville, on se demande où sont passées les vieilles maisons de cette ville pourtant passablement étendue.
Quelques hôtels en plein Centre près de la mosquée. Je conseille le Lux Hotel (35 euros) et déconseille l'Alpine hotel où les chambres sont exiguës, sentent le tabac et où le WiFi est indigent. Le VLORA aurait quant à lui besoin d'un petit coup de neuf.
Jour 8- 6 décembre 2016.
Trajet de VLORA à BERAT. Compter deux heures par une route sans intérêt. 350 leks. L'arrivée ne se fait pas en centre ville mais à la gare routière. Des bus urbains partent régulièrement de la gare routière pour le centre qui n'est qu'à 15 minutes de là.
BERAT, connue aussi sous le nom de la ville aux mille fenêtres, est un patrimoine de l'Unesco. Elle est en pleine rénovation. Cela promet d'être joli. Très joli même. Nombreuses et très agréables rues piétonnières bordées de cafés et terrasses.
Je loge à l'hôtel TOMORI, un hôtel extrêmement bien situé, (plein centre) qui affiche 4 étoiles mais qui n'en vaut que 3. Un restaurant panoramique au 5ème étage qui mérite le détour car beau point de vue sur les alentours. De plus vous y trouverez d'excellentes pizzas pour un prix très honnête.
À deux pas de l'hôtel, pour les amateurs de chocolat, Le café "SHEPTEMI " où vous pourrez déguster un grand verre de ce délicieux breuvage chaud pour à peine un euro. Consommé en terrasse, c'est un véritable délice en ce mois de décembre.
Il faut également monter à la citadelle. Possible à pieds (c'est un peu rude) mais également accessible en voiture. Deux ou trois hôtels et guest- houses dont le KRIS guest- house qui offre des chambres sans salle de bain privative pour 25 euros. Très calme bien sûr et vue imprenable sur la vallée.
Juste à l'entrée de la montée toute en pavés, un nouveau B&B ONURI va ouvrir ses portes au printemps 2017. Je suis convaincu que ce sera une adresse prisée. La ville mérite vraiment une halte et ceux qui aiment flâner et/ ou qui ont du temps et de bonnes jambes pourront y consacrer deux jours.
Jour 9- 7 décembre 2016.
Trajet de BERAT à DURRES. Environ 100 Kms dans une plaine essentiellement maraîchère. 300 leks. Arrivée en centre ville. Peu d'hôtels dans cette ville portuaire qui ne mérite, à mon sens, qu'un bref arrêt.
Je poursuis vers Shkodra. Ancienne capitale culturelle de l'Albanie avant que les communistes en détruisent une bonne partie.
Même station de bus. Deux départs quotidiens. 7 heures et 13 heures. 400 leks.
Environ 120 Kms séparent DURRES de Shkodra. Compter 2 bonnes heures. Arrivée en plein centre ville. Quelques hôtels tout proches. Mon choix sera le KADUKU. 25 euros la twin avec petit déjeuner.
Le centre-ville et ses rues piétonnes est vraiment très joli et bien restauré. Certaines boutiques et restaurants sont même un peu "luxe". Ville qui apparaît plus " moderne" que les autres. Galeries de peinture, salons de coiffure, restaurants chics etc..
Les prix des hôtels s'en ressentent et sont supérieurs d'environ 30% à ceux pratiqués en général. L'augmentation est encore plus sensible en haute saison.
Jour 10- 8 décembre 2016.
Départ de Shkodra pour le Monténégro. Le bus qui fait la liaison avec Ucine effectue 3 trajets par jour dans les deux sens pour la somme de 5 euros. Environ deux heures de trajet. Il se prend juste en face de l'hôtel ROZAFA, plein centre ville.
Les formalités de police, à la frontière, sont simplifiées à l'extrême. Il n'est même pas utile de descendre du bus et c'est le chauffeur qui fait valider les passeports.
Ensuite un autre bus pour BUDVA. Les hôtels sont bien plus chers. Minimum 50% d'augmentation par rapport à l'Albanie.
Visite de la vieille ville de Krotor. A seulement 20kms de BUDVA mais compter une heure et demie pour y aller. En bordure de la mer. Joli et touristique. Surtout touristique...J'imagine ce même endroit au plus fort de la période estivale. Je ne suis pas convaincu que j'aimerais ça... La route qui longe la mer de BUDVA à Krotor est très jolie mais parfois bétonnée. C'est la Riviera du Monténégro.. Pas vraiment mon truc non plus..
Jour 11 - 9 décembre 2016.
Les prix étant largement supérieurs à ceux de l'Albanie, les gens pas spécialement sympas, je décide de retourner à Shkodra, en Albanie. Je terminerai mon séjour dans ce pays. Deux bus le matin pour Ucine. Le premier, que je rate, part à 7h50 et le deuxième à 13heures. Le bus qui part d'Ucine démarre à 16h30 et, bizarrement coûte un euro de plus dans ce sens là. C'est le dernier de la journée.
Cela me fait arriver à 18 heures. Trajet de nuit car le jour tombe à 16h30.
Retour à mon hôtel précédent. Le KADUKU.
Jour 12-10 décembre 2016.
Départ à 9h15 pour Tirana. Environ 2 heures de trajet. Route peu intéressante.
Changement de bus et de gare routière à Tirana pour POGRADEC, ma destination finale. La gare routière se situe bien loin de celle d'arrivée. Il me faudra une bonne heure pour l'atteindre, mi bus, mi Pédibus..😜. Fort heureusement un superbe ciel bleu. Départ à 12h30 pour 3 heures de trajet et 450 leks. Avant POGRADEC jolie route en réfection qui longe le bord du lac. Même hotel (PROGRADECI) pour un prix défiant toute concurrence. Ce soir c'est la fête au restaurant de l'hôtel. Musique et danses albanaises. Atmosphère bon enfant des années 60 malgré un public mixte jeune et plus âgé.J'en profite pour étudier les m˛urs locales.
Jour 13- 11 décembre.
Visite du petit village de LIN.. Une petite vingtaine de Kms sur le bord du lac. Un seul bus à midi pour s'y rendre de PROGRADEC.
Il est préférable de se positionner à la sortie de la Ville pour tenter sa chance avec une voiture particulière.
Agréable balade dans les petites rues pavées de ce village en cul de sac. Un hotel, une guest- house, quelques petits restaurants et rien d'autre. Une halte sympa pour ceux qui aiment le calme et les odeurs de la nature. Surtout la bouse.😜
Pour revenir à POGRADEC, marcher pendant 1,5 Kms, juste la distance qui sépare le village de la route qui vient de Tirana puis attendre un bus...
C'est 50 leks pour rejoindre le centre ville.
Jour 14- 12 décembre 2016.
Lever matinal pour se rendre à Ohrid qui se situe en Macédoine, de l'autre côté du lac, juste en face de la ville de POGRADEC. Cette excursion peut se faire en une journée, mais il peut aussi être agréable de passer la nuit sur place. Un mini bus part quand il est plein pour la Ville juste avant le poste frontière (Dogana) qui se situe à 5 ou 6 Kms du centre de POGRADEC. Un taxi peut être bien plus intéressant si on est deux. Attention certains chauffeurs peu scrupuleux vous demanderont 15 ou 20 euros.!! Vous pouvez leur rire au nez. Le juste prix se situe entre 300 ET 500 leks.
Apres les formalités douanières, (très simples) il y a théoriquement un bus pour le centre ville d'Ohrid. Je ne l'ai jamais vu ni à l'aller ni au retour. Il est préférable, me semble-t- il, de négocier le trajet avec un véhicule particulier. Là encore, certains ont la main lourde. Il y a environ 30 Kms à parcourir. Le bon prix se situe aux alentours de 4 ou 500 leks par personne.
Attention, vous changez de pays donc de monnaie. En Macédoine on utilise le DENAR. Vous aurez 61 dénars pour un euro. Facile à changer à POGRADEC.
La Ville d'Ohrid se situe en bord du lac bien sûr. Elle offre une bonne variété hôtelière et de nombreux restaurants. L'endroit est assez touristique et cela se ressent.
L'essentiel peut être visité en une demie journée, mais ceux qui aiment flâner et goûter l'atmosphère du soleil déclinant devront bien sûr prévoir d'y dormir une nuit.
Trois ou 4 belles églises orthodoxes et des petites ruelles pavées.
Pour ma part je préfère POGRADEC et j'y retourne...
Jour 15- 13 décembre 2016
Retour à Tirana. Véhicule 6 places. 600 leks. Durée 2h30. Une autoroute est en construction et diminuera évidemment le temps de trajet.
Navette aéroport du centre ville. Compter une demi- heure. Attention aux bouchons.
Since Albania isn’t part of Europe when it comes to phone service (at least not yet! :-)), we had to buy a physical SIM card—otherwise, the bill would’ve been sky-high if we’d used our French plan! We got one from Vodafone AL at the airport. You can buy online before leaving with a virtual SIM (e-SIM) for compatible phones, so you don’t have to swap cards. But given the uncertainty about choosing a plan online, we preferred buying one directly at Tirana Airport. Cost: 31 € for 100 GB. That’s way too much—100 GB is overkill. For 40 GB, it’s 27 €, and the plan lasts 21 days. The price difference isn’t huge, and it was cheaper than online. This plan covers all the countries along the Balkan range.
Money tip: All guesthouses and accommodations accept euros. The local currency in Albania is the LEK. In Montenegro, it’s the euro. Bank fees for withdrawing money from an ATM in Albania are pretty steep: 8 € for a withdrawal of 600–700 LEK (about 200 €)! So it’s better to withdraw cash (euros) in France. Oh, and we booked all our accommodations before leaving, but payment is always in cash. Budget around 400–500 € for 9 days of trekking.
I really liked Shköder, especially its pedestrian street lined with restaurants and lit up at night. It’s a great place to stroll and eat. The food isn’t expensive—two big salads and two beers: 14 € :-) . Fruit prices are also very reasonable: 3 € for a kilo of cherries, compared to 9–10 € in France.
Religions coexist peacefully in these countries—Catholics and Muslims. From our balcony, my friend heard the call to prayer for the first time, coming from one of the city’s mosques.
We slept in the heights of Theth at a new guesthouse, "Mountain Vista Shkafi," with an amazing view.
