This travel journal summarizes a trip I took in March to Argentine and Chilean Patagonia. It starts in El Calafate and ends in Ushuaia. During my planning, I considered looking into the Australis cruise from Punta Arenas to Ushuaia, as well as the W trek in Torres del Paine National Park. In both cases, I was put off by the prices. Instead of the cruise, I found two interesting wildlife excursions from Punta Arenas: whale watching in the Strait of Magellan and observing king penguins in Tierra del Fuego. The journey to Ushuaia was by bus. For Torres del Paine, things were a bit confusing, so I reached out to two agencies. In the end, I went with a rental car option, overnight stays on-site, and day hikes. I shared my full itinerary with the agency and ended up being taken care of by a local Argentine agency and a Chilean one.
So, here we go...
I’ve got my flight ticket sorted—departing in mid-November and returning in mid-March. I’ll arrive in Santiago and leave from Buenos Aires.
I’ve already been to southern Argentina, specifically Torres del Paine National Park, and I’d love to go back to do the full W trek (I only did the shorter version last time).
I also want to do some hiking and maybe even tackle a summit. I climb and occasionally do some mountaineering, so I’ll definitely be going with a guide.
I plan to start around Temuco in Chile, with the idea of heading toward the lakes, then taking the Carretera Austral.
I’m not sure if I’ll go all the way to Ushuaia—it’s supposed to not be *that* worth it, except for the bragging rights of saying you’ve been to the end of the world.
I saw there are lakes in Argentina too.
I don’t have a precise itinerary, but what I’d love is, once I reach the southernmost point of my trip, to take a mini-cruise to see some wildlife. Any tips for that?
What kind of sleeping bag did you take? Is a 0°C (32°F) one enough?
And one last question: white gas stove or can I get by with my gas stove?
Three years after exploring northern Argentina and Chile, my two travel buddies and I want to discover the southern part of these two countries.
We’re traveling on a budget, backpacker-style, favoring public transport and modest accommodations, but we don’t hesitate to splurge a little when it’s worth it.
The classic spots that have been fueling our dreams: Bariloche, the lakes, Chiloé, El Chaltén, Torres del Paine, Perito Moreno, El Calafate, Fitz Roy, Ushuaia and Tierra del Fuego, and wrapping up in Valparaíso.
We’ll take a round-trip flight to Santiago, then I’m thinking of a one-way flight from Santiago to Punta Arenas. From there, we’ll explore and do several day hikes in the south, including Ushuaia and, if possible, Tierra del Fuego.
Then we’ll head back north by bus to Bariloche and the lakes, followed by Chiloé, then a bus to Santiago and Valparaíso.
Based on your experience, could you help me figure out the best way to structure this trip and maybe suggest some ideas?
Thanks in advance.
Didier
Hi everyone,
We're planning a trip to southern Chile in November. Here's our tentative itinerary:
Day 1: Arrival in Santiago, then a flight the next day to Balmaceda where we'll pick up a rental car to reach Coyhaique.
Day 3: Walk in the Coyhaique National Reserve, then continue to Puerto Chacabuco. Return to Coyhaique for the second night.
Day 4: Drive to Villa Cerro Castillo for a hike in the national park. Continue to Puerto Tranquilo and stay there for 3 nights.
Day 5: Boat tour on Laguna San Rafael.
Day 6: Day trip to Monte San Valentin Glacier.
Day 7: Excursion to the Marble Chapels, then drive to Puerto Guadal. We'll stay there for 3 nights.
Day 8: Walk along Lago Carrera and return to Puerto Guadal.
Day 9: Rio Baker Valley and, if possible, a glacier excursion.
Day 10: Drive to Cochrane and hike in Tamango National Reserve. We'll stay 2 nights in Cochrane.
Day 11: Walk in the Chacabuco Valley.
Day 12: Drive to Caleta Tortel. We'll stay there for 2 nights.
Day 13: Cruise in the Rio Baker delta.
Day 14: Return to Cochrane.
Day 15: Return to Balmaceda in two stages.
Day 16: Continue the return journey.
Day 17: Return the rental car and head back to Santiago.
After this, we're also planning to explore northern Santiago. I'll post about that part once I have a clearer idea of the route.
What do you think of this itinerary? Is it doable in 17 days?
Thanks in advance for your tips and recommendations.
martine
Hi everyone, does anyone know the agency Ventura Travel Agency (not ventura travel)? After lots of research and quotes, it’s the only one offering Uyuni at a reasonable price while meeting all the criteria: transfer to the border, private-room accommodation, and a very fair rate. Other agencies or guides either offer shared rooms, no border transfer, or prices that are way too high. But I’d love to hear some reviews about this agency. Thanks in advance!
Hi everyone,
We're planning a trip to Chile to visit the Atacama Desert and then head toward Putre, Lauca, Salar de Surire, etc.
Which would be the better time to go, April or November?
Is an SUV enough?
Looking forward to your tips!
Hi everyone, French travelers in Chile—what credit cards do you use for your various car rentals in the country? I’m traveling in September and was planning to switch my regular debit card (a VISA PREMIER in deferred debit mode) for the deposit guarantee.
My rentals are with Figal in Punta Arenas, Econautos in Arica, and Chilean Rent a Car in Temuco, and all of them want the deposit on a credit card. For me, deferred debit *should* work, but I’ve read comments saying the opposite.
How’s it actually working on the ground with these rental companies right now? Will a deferred debit card work, or not at all?
In France, banks don’t issue credit cards, right—or am I mistaken?
Hi there,
I’m planning a sidecar trip to South America for 4 or 5 months at the end of this year.
I’m looking for info on shipping my vehicle by sea—possibly to Uruguay or another destination, as I haven’t finalized anything yet.
How do you get visas for the countries I’ll be crossing: Uruguay, Argentina, Bolivia, Peru, and Chile? Are they e-Visas, obtained at the border, or through embassies?
Where can I get vehicle insurance?
Lastly, if any bikers want to join us (my partner and me), we’re open to that possibility too.
Patrick
Hi everyone,
We’re heading to Patagonia for three weeks in November, starting from Coyhaique in Chile.
We won’t have a car, and I’m struggling to find information about transportation options for a few parts of the itinerary we’d like to do:
1) From Perito Moreno (the town, near Los Antiguos), we’d like to travel down Ruta 40 to visit Perito Moreno National Park and then cross into Chile via the Paso Roballos (at the latitude of Bajo Caracoles) to reach the road to Cochrane. Without a car, it seems we’ll need to use private agencies to get to the national park—do you have any recommendations or suggestions? Also, does anyone know if it’s possible to cross into Chile via Paso Roballos (from Bajo Caracoles) without a rental car? That is, without having to go all the way down to El Chaltén or back up toward Perito Moreno/Los Antiguos, etc.?
2) The second stretch that seems a bit tricky (though still easier, in theory) is from Caleta Tortel to Villa O’Higgins on the Chilean side. Do we have to go back through Cochrane, or are there ways to get directly from Tortel to Villa O’Higgins?
3) Finally, we’d like to hike into Argentina (El Chaltén) from O’Higgins. Any recommendations for this? Do we need to go through an agency? What’s the estimated duration of the trek?
As you’ve probably gathered, we want to visit some off-the-beaten-path spots but don’t have a car, so we’re looking for the best possible compromises.
Thanks so much in advance for all your suggestions!
Thomas
Hi there,
I’m spending a few days in San Pedro de Atacama (Chile) and would like to cross the Argentine border to make a loop toward Salta and then return to Chile to drop off the rental car.
I’ve heard that crossing the border can be tricky!
Is it possible with a rental company’s authorization? Which company, and at what cost?
Thanks for sharing your experiences!
Best regards,
Arnale
Hi,
we’re planning a round trip from San Pedro de Atacama, Chile, to Salta, Argentina, in two months. On the way there, we’ll take the northern route via Susques, Route 27, then 52. But for the return, we were thinking of taking the southern route via San Antonio de los Cobres, Route 51, then 23. Is it similar to the northern route in terms of road surface? How busy is it, and are there gas stations? Basically, should we be worried about doing it in an SUV that’s supposedly 4x4 but has regular road tires and no second spare wheel, obviously...
I’ve seen that we can stop over in San Antonio de los Cobres.
Thanks for your feedback.
Raf.
Hi,
we’ll be in Calama at the end of March 2026, and I’m looking for a reliable car rental there for a 7-day road trip to Salta, Argentina. But I’m struggling with the car rental agencies in Calama because the reviews can be scary. I saw Gyg, which has great ratings, but I’m a bit wary (5/5 from 59 reviews—either the guy’s amazing or it’s fake...), but I can’t find any recent reviews on VF in general.
For Punta Arenas, I booked with Dachelet and didn’t have any issues with email exchanges.
Thanks in advance.
Raf.
I’m planning the trip of my dreams for next November—Chile!
I’d love to get your thoughts on my potential itinerary. I know it’s a big investment in terms of both time and money, so every bit of feedback, suggestion, or info helps immensely. Thank you in advance!!
1-Flight to Santiago
2-Explore Santiago
3-Explore Santiago
4-Bus from STG to Valpo (2h) + visit Valparaíso + night in Viña
5-Visit Valparaíso + bus back to STG (2h)
6-Flight to Calama + bus to San Pedro + explore and acclimate in San Pedro + car rental in the afternoon (+Chaxa?)
7-(Very early) Valle del Arcoíris + Laguna Cejar + Valle de la Luna
Hi there.
I’m planning a trip to Chile, and the fares from the Colombian airline Avianca are really appealing.
Way cheaper than Air France, for example.
That said, the reviews I’ve seen online aren’t great.
What do you think of this airline?
Have any of you taken long-haul flights with Avianca?
Thanks in advance for your replies.
Eric
I’ll be in ARICA in northern Chile at the end of May 2026 and want to get to TACNA.
Are there taxis, buses, or collectivos that run the border crossing route?
After that, bus to AREQUIPA (Peru): any bus company you’d recommend?
Hi,
we’re planning to travel through Patagonia (Chile and Argentina) in February and March 2027.
From a seasonal and weather perspective, at that time of year and with hiking as our main activity, is it better to explore Patagonia from south to north or the other way around?
Thanks in advance.
Anne Marie
I’m about to fulfill a dream that includes a trip to Patagonia between October and December 2026. I’ll be traveling solo.
My plan:
- Take a boat from Puerto Montt to Puerto Natales (4-5 days)
- Torres del Paine National Park (2-3 days)
- Bus from Puerto Natales to Ushuaïa (1-2 days)
- Exploring around Ushuaïa (3-4 days)
- Cruise from Ushuaïa to Punta Arenas (Oct 31 - Nov 4)
- Rent a vehicle and head back up to Puerto Montt by around December 10, which is about 35 days total, via Los Glaciares, El Chaltén, Patagonia NP, Caleta Tortel, Villa O’Higgins, Puerto Río Tranquilo, Bahía Exploradores, Cerro Castillo NP, Coyhaique, Queulat NP, Chaitén, Pumalín NP, and Hornopirén NP.
My goal is to enjoy nature and do some hiking.
I’ll be in Torres del Paine around October 20—is the weather manageable for day hikes at that time?
30-35 days from Punta Arenas to Puerto Montt? That’s about 3,600 km. Is this timeframe doable to enjoy the scenery without rushing? If I arrive in the north earlier, it’s no big deal—I’ll just explore more spots above Puerto Montt.
Now, about the vehicle... I’m torn between a car + tent (regular car with a tent on top) and a small van. Is this enough for the Carretera Austral or unpaved roads? Or would a 4x4 be better? I’m not an experienced 4x4 driver—I’ve only driven occasionally to give the main driver a break on easy sections. A van is tempting for the comfort. Are there any rental options for slightly modified cars or ones where you can sleep, like a Kangoo?
Thanks in advance for your thoughts on my itinerary and advice on the vehicle!
Hi,
We’d like to visit South America (among other places) with a vehicle, and I have a question about Chile and Argentina.
A lot of "spots" are right on the border between these two countries, and I was wondering how to visit them since we’re not in a rush. Should we cross the borders without stopping so we don’t have to backtrack later, or should we explore the Chilean side first, for example, and then the Argentine side afterward?
Thanks for your thoughts and advice! :)
I’m planning to explore Argentine and Chilean Patagonia for a month in December 2019.
I’m looking for a rental company (or several) that offers single-cab 4x4 pick-ups with a fitted camper cell for two people. I’m specifically after a vehicle with an indoor shower for extra comfort ;)
So, no vans—at least not from the rental companies I’ve seen so far.
While browsing the forum, I came across the Chilean rental company Holiday Rent. But do you have any recommendations for Argentine rentals?
Because, if I can’t return the vehicle in the same city as pickup, I’d prefer—and it’d likely be cheaper—to at least return it in the same country.
I’m traveling through Argentina and Chile (as well as Paraguay and Uruguay) with a 2019 Toyota Hilux Euro 6. Could anyone tell me if the local diesel is suitable for its engine, or if I need to take any special precautions (like adding an additive, for example) for these countries?
I’d also like to know if driving at high altitudes is possible, and up to what elevation—or if I should worry about the vehicle going into limp mode?
If that happens, what should I do?
Hello,
I’ve got a plan with a friend to go on a motorcycle road trip in 2028 or 2029, starting in Santiago de Chile and ending in Ushuaia, for about a month.
Has anyone done a trip like this before, and what’s the best time of year?
I’ve heard there can be quite a bit of wind depending on the season.
Thanks for any tips!
Cheers,
PA
I’m planning a journey of about 2500 km starting from San Pedro de Atacama (duration: max. 2 months). This trip, almost entirely on remote trails, promises to be an extraordinary adventure.
Highlights of the trip
- Crossing the Florido Desert (during the blooming season: October 15–30)
- Hiking ascents of legendary volcanoes:
- Ojos del Salado (6879 m)
- Llullaillaco (6739 m)
- Uturuncu (6008 m, with 5820 m reachable by mountain bike!)
- A 300 km stage through the heart of the desert, with no resupply or habitation: the ultimate experience of solitude and self-transcendence.
Practical details
- Daily distance: max. 100 km and 1000 m elevation gain per day
- Average altitude: 4000 m (between 3500 and 5000 m)
- Temperatures: ~15 °C during the day, down to -25 °C at night (in a tent)
- Accommodation: ~50% in villages (with locals or small hostels), ~50% camping
Estimated budget
- 1400 € for the flight ticket (including bike supplement)
- 1000 € for on-the-ground expenses
Required equipment
- Fatbike (essential for deep sand)
- -25 °C comfort sleeping bag
- Single-wheel trailer (indispensable for these tough terrains)
My experience
In 2022, I completed a similar 1200 km trip north of San Pedro de Atacama:
- Full crossing of the Salar de Uyuni (170 km)
- Ascents of the Ollague (5868 m) and Aucanquilcha (6176 m) volcanoes
- Two 200 km stages with no resupply or human presence
Videos available for a glimpse of the adventure:
- Atacama Crossing 2022 - Part 1
- Atacama Crossing 2022 - Part 2
Next steps
If this adventure interests you, I suggest:
1. A first phone call to get to know each other
2. A meet-up over a drink or a test ride in the Bardenas Reales (similar terrain, and I live 100 km away)
Don’t hesitate to contact me for more info or to discuss the details!
Hi there,
I’d like to walk in the footsteps of Antoine de Tounens, the king of the Mapuche.
Would you happen to have a suggested route for me in the Chilean Araucanía?
I’ve got the historical info from araucanie-patagonie.org, but I’d love some ideas for places to visit.
Thanks
We’re a couple traveling with our 2.5-year-old baby. We’re heading to Patagonia in March or April 2026. We don’t have exact dates yet because this will be the start of a long trip around Latin America.
We’ll be traveling by public transport, with our backpacks and a baby carrier for support.
We’ll take a domestic flight from Buenos Aires to Ushuaia, and the rest will be by bus.
Here’s the itinerary we’ve planned:
- Buenos Aires (5 days)
- Ushuaia (5 days or more)
- El Calafate (3 days)
- El Chaltén (5 days)
- Los Antiguos + border crossing at Chile Chico
- Puerto Río Tranquilo (Chile) (5 days)
- Coyhaique (Chile) (3 days)
- Chiloé Island (Chile) (10 days)
- Puerto Varas (Chile) (3 days)
- Bariloche (5 days)
- San Martín de los Andes (3 days)
- Mendoza (5 days)
After that, we’re thinking of spending a few days in Córdoba, then a month in Salta.
We plan to head back down to Santiago (Chile) and then head north along the Chilean side toward Peru.
What do you think of this itinerary (especially the Patagonia part)? Is it doable with a young child just over 2.5 years old?
I’d also love to include Esquel and El Bolsón in Argentina, but I’m not sure how to fit them in or if they’re really worth it.
The durations are approximate, depending on what there is to do in each place...
Do you have any suggestions for improving it or any tips?
We want to do some easy hikes or half-day walks since we won’t be able to carry him all day. That’s why we’ve intentionally left out Torres del Paine National Park (very expensive and not very baby-friendly, I think).
Do you know of any hikes that are accessible with a little one?
Hi there,
My friend and I are planning to bike down to Tierra del Fuego starting from Santiago, Chile, in early February. The big question is: "Is it possible to find decent and reasonably priced bikes in Santiago?" Are there local resale sites like Leboncoin, or any second-hand spots worth knowing about there? If anyone’s done this before, I’d love to hear your tips! ;)
Thanks! !
Hi,
Does anyone know how late the buses run from Cusco Airport to the city center? I land at 9:30 PM, plus time to clear customs, pick up my luggage, and exchange some money—figure an extra 30 to 45 minutes. Though, come to think of it, I still have 5 sols from last time—maybe that’ll be enough for the bus?
Thanks.
Brigitte
We’re heading to Chile for two weeks at the end of December.
I’m traveling with my son (17 years old). His mom, whom I’m divorced from, won’t be with us.
I’ve read on several sites—including official Chilean ones—that a Chilean exit permit is required for minors if they’re not accompanied by both parents. According to these sites, this authorization needs to be done at the Chilean consulate in Paris and then legalized upon arrival in Santiago.
This formality seems really cumbersome for French tourists who arrive together and leave together just two weeks later...
Has anyone here got reliable info on this?
Thanks,
Hi everyone,
We’re two women of a certain age heading off to discover Chile for three weeks starting at the end of December.
We’re not really hikers, but we’re planning a few days in Torres del Paine (flying from Puerto Montt to Puerto Natales), though we’re having trouble getting around the park by transport and finding reasonably priced accommodation...
There are a lot of bad reviews about the services on-site and the prices—overtourism! Is it still doable this season? Rent a car from Puerto Natales airport? Or would it be better to focus on another region that’s just as beautiful but less touristy?
Thanks in advance for your suggestions!
