Original post
Bonjour, Nous partons (2) pour le SL le 6 mars pour 15 jours avec Jet Tours, circuit connaissance du SL, si vous connaissez merci de me donner vos impressions.
Circuit organisé de quinze jours au Sri Lanka
by Toune38
This discussion is in French, the community’s main language.
Bonjour,
Je ne connais pas le Sri Lanka , mais en général tout le monde est pris en charge par une agence locale avec souvent plusieurs 'tour opérator" dans le même car et tout le monde se retrouve aux même endroits.
Bon voyage
@+ Michel T@
http://michel.talon.free.fr/Saint-Maurice_en_Quercy_Lot-/inde.htm
a+ Michel T@
http://michel.talon.free.fr
Bonjour,
Merci pour votre réponse, bien d'autres questions me viennent en tete, en voici quelques unes :
Avez-vous pris un traitement contre le paludisme, y a t il beaucoup de moustiques ?
J'espère que les routes ne sont pas aussi défoncées qu'au Rajasthan car mes vertèbres ont mal supporté !
Nous avons choisi le Taj Exotica de Bentota pour les 2 jours de farniente.
Si vous avez quelques astuces pour mieux profiter de ce circuit, merci d'avance.
Bonne journée.
Hello,
Je réponds volontiers à toutes vos interrogations, ça me fait très plaisir de me remémorer notre voyage au Sri Lanka. Par contre j'espère éviter de trop vous en dire et j'espère aussi rester neutre, parce que ce qui plaît aux uns déplaît parfois aux autres, et inversément, et je ne voudrais pas vous influencer. Il faut aussi qu'il vous reste quelques surprises ...
Selon mon médecin, que j'ai consulté avant de partir au Sri Lanka, il n'y a pas besoin de traitement contre le paludisme (il s'est basé sur les recommandations des services officiels ici en Suisse). Une infirmière qui faisait partie de notre groupe m'a confirmé cela également. Toutefois il faut emporter de toute façon un antimoustique efficace car les moustiques ne véhiculent pas uniquement le paludisme ... Sans être parano, nous avons utilisé le répulsif aussi pour des raisons de confort, il y avait parfois des nuages de moustiques à toute heure, donc le répulsif fait partie du nécessaire à avoir sur soi. Toutefois globalement on ne peut pas dire qu'il y avait en permanence beaucoup de moustiques, cela dépend aussi du lieu/végétation et de la saison.
Concernant la comparaison des routes du Sri Lanka avec celles du Rajasthan ... je ne suis jamais allée en Inde. Globalement nous avons trouvé les routes en assez bon état (certaines refaites avec l'aide internationale après le tsunami). Le confort dépend aussi de l'état du bus ... La façon de circuler au Sri Lanka est très déroutante pour un européen, ce qui plaide pour le voyage en bus plutôt qu'en voiture particulière, on s'y sent plus en sécurité. La vitesse moyenne est d'environ 30/35 km/h, donc les trajets prennent beaucoup de temps. Vous aurez ainsi le loisir de profiter du paysage et de l'animation qu'il y a sur les bords de route (raison d'ailleurs qui fait que le bus est si lent). J'ai regretté de n'avoir pas emporté un coussin spécial pour la nuque, car il y a toujours un moment où l'on s'endort dans le bus.
Le jour de l'arrivée à Colombo, la visite du Pettah Bazaar est au programme : nous avons regretté d'y être allé, malgré le fait qu'on peut aussi à cette occasion voir les bâtiments officiels de la ville. Ce jour-là nous étions tous très fatigués par la nuit dans l'avion (arrivée à Colombo très tôt le matin). Nous avons passé à l'hôtel prendre une douche, faire une petite sieste et avons repris le bus (déjà pris pour le trajet depuis l'aéroport) pour aller au Pettah Bazaar. Il s'agit d'un marché en plein air pour les habitants, pas vraiment pour les touristes (ce qui peut être très bien en d'autres circonstances). L'insupportable est que les vendeurs ont des mégaphones et amplis pour attirer la clientèle à leurs stands, c'est extrêmement bruyant et il y a foule. Il faut imaginer ça après une nuit dans l'avion ... Aucune personne du groupe n'a apprécié ce moment. Par contre j'avoue qu'il est difficile, lors de la première excursion, d'annoncer au guide qu'on ne veut pas y participer, et ce jour-là on espère déjà créer quelques liens avec les autres membres du groupe. A notre retour à l'hôtel, nous espérions passer un moment à la piscine pour se détendre avant le repas du soir, mais la piscine était déjà fermée pour la nuit. Si c'était à refaire, on se ferait porter pâles ...
Le programme pour les jours suivants n'a pas vraiment correspondu à ce qui était dans la brochure (même programme que dans l'actuelle brochure) mais c'était un parcours plus logique au niveau des distances à parcourir. Tous les sites ont été visités, mais dans un ordre différent. Heureusement que le guide a modifié l'ordre des visites, cela nous a permis de profiter de chaque site.
N'ayez aucune crainte pour l'ascension du Rocher d'Or, le bus vous dépose déjà à mi-parcours, et on a tout le temps de prendre son temps. De toute façon le dernier tronçon, le plus dur paraît-il, personne du groupe ne l'a fait (circonstances du moment que je ne relaterai pas ici). L'ascension du rocher de Sigiriya est aussi un grand moment : cela vaut la peine d'aller jusque tout en haut, les escaliers sont suffisamment larges, on peut se tenir à la rambarde, à mon avis mêmes des personnes peu habituées à marcher ou légèrement sujettes au vertige, peuvent y arriver, et le sommet est très vaste, aucun problème de vertige ou autre. Pour les Demoiselles de Sigiriya, apprenez (si ce n'est pas déjà fait) à utiliser votre appareil de photos sans flash, c'est sympa d'avoir un souvenir autre qu'une carte postale. Concernant les visites prévues au circuit, nous avons trouvé certaines d'entre elles magnifiques, voire exceptionnelles, et d'autres nous ont beaucoup déçus. Ceci est très personnel et certains autres membres du groupe n'ont pas ressenti les mêmes désappointements (certains avis étaient même à l'opposé du nôtre).
Peut-être êtes-vous familière des circuits, mais pour nous c'était le premier, et le fait de manger 3 repas par jour à une grande table de 23 personnes a été difficile au début, puisque nous n'avions pas pensé que les repas du soir seraient également à prendre avec le groupe (erreur de débutants). La prochaine fois nous nous préparerons psychologiquement ...
Je vous ai gardé le "meilleur" pour la fin : Le Taj Exotica est un très bel hôtel, avec de très belles chambres mais ... ce ne sont pas celles réservées par Jet Tours. Jet Tours a réservé pour vous les chambres de la catégorie la plus basse de l'hôtel (dixit le guide local), vous verrez si elles vous conviennent ... ce qui n'était pas le cas pour nous (je vous fais gré des multiples raisons). Nous devions faire 3 nuits dans cet hôtel et après la première nuit, nous avons présenté les photos de la chambre au guide local Jet tours en lui signifiant que ce n'était pas du tout ce que nous attendions et que l'état de cette chambre était indigne d'un hôtel de cette catégorie. Nous avons pu obtenir un surclassement de chambre sans frais pour les 2 nuits suivantes et avons passé un très agréable séjour dans cet endroit magnifique.
Chapitre Astuces : Changer votre argent à une banque qui est dans le hall des arrivées de l'aéroport, juste avant la sortie (votre guide attendra plus loin, après les guichets des agences de voyage et des banques). Le taux est meilleur que dans les hôtels, et demandez des "small notes" pour avoir de la monnaie dès le départ. Dans le pays, les vendeurs vous présentent d'abord leurs prix en euros, plutôt qu'en roupies. Beaucoup sont ensuite "encombrés" de pièces de monnaie en euros que les banques sur place ne reprennent pas. Alors ils seront contents si vous les leur échangez contre des billets de 10 euros. Le seul risque est d'alourdir vos bagages pour le retour ...
Dans les hôtels, les chambres sont souvent attribuées assez rapidement, mais les bagages ne suivent pas. Nous prenions chaque matin dans le bus un petit sac (allez le chercher le jour du départ au comptoir Jet Tours à l'aéroport CDG, il est pratique et offert) avec de quoi se doucher et se changer. Ainsi nous n'avions pas à attendre désespérément les valises alors que le seul souhait après une journée de bus est de prendre une douche et d'aller se balader dans les jardins de l'hôtel.
Prenez aussi de vieilles chaussettes : l'endroit où l'on se déchausse à l'entrée de l'enceinte des temples est parfois assez éloigné du temple en lui-même, ce qui fait qu'il faut parfois marcher sur un sol surchauffé ou caillouteux. Pour ce circuit, des sandales confortables qui tiennent bien le talon et avec une semelle épaisse (genre trekking) me semblent les chaussures les mieux adaptées.
Voilà, mon message est peut-être un peu bref, mais si vous avez d'autres questions, n'hésitez pas !
Je réponds volontiers à toutes vos interrogations, ça me fait très plaisir de me remémorer notre voyage au Sri Lanka. Par contre j'espère éviter de trop vous en dire et j'espère aussi rester neutre, parce que ce qui plaît aux uns déplaît parfois aux autres, et inversément, et je ne voudrais pas vous influencer. Il faut aussi qu'il vous reste quelques surprises ...
Selon mon médecin, que j'ai consulté avant de partir au Sri Lanka, il n'y a pas besoin de traitement contre le paludisme (il s'est basé sur les recommandations des services officiels ici en Suisse). Une infirmière qui faisait partie de notre groupe m'a confirmé cela également. Toutefois il faut emporter de toute façon un antimoustique efficace car les moustiques ne véhiculent pas uniquement le paludisme ... Sans être parano, nous avons utilisé le répulsif aussi pour des raisons de confort, il y avait parfois des nuages de moustiques à toute heure, donc le répulsif fait partie du nécessaire à avoir sur soi. Toutefois globalement on ne peut pas dire qu'il y avait en permanence beaucoup de moustiques, cela dépend aussi du lieu/végétation et de la saison.
Concernant la comparaison des routes du Sri Lanka avec celles du Rajasthan ... je ne suis jamais allée en Inde. Globalement nous avons trouvé les routes en assez bon état (certaines refaites avec l'aide internationale après le tsunami). Le confort dépend aussi de l'état du bus ... La façon de circuler au Sri Lanka est très déroutante pour un européen, ce qui plaide pour le voyage en bus plutôt qu'en voiture particulière, on s'y sent plus en sécurité. La vitesse moyenne est d'environ 30/35 km/h, donc les trajets prennent beaucoup de temps. Vous aurez ainsi le loisir de profiter du paysage et de l'animation qu'il y a sur les bords de route (raison d'ailleurs qui fait que le bus est si lent). J'ai regretté de n'avoir pas emporté un coussin spécial pour la nuque, car il y a toujours un moment où l'on s'endort dans le bus.
Le jour de l'arrivée à Colombo, la visite du Pettah Bazaar est au programme : nous avons regretté d'y être allé, malgré le fait qu'on peut aussi à cette occasion voir les bâtiments officiels de la ville. Ce jour-là nous étions tous très fatigués par la nuit dans l'avion (arrivée à Colombo très tôt le matin). Nous avons passé à l'hôtel prendre une douche, faire une petite sieste et avons repris le bus (déjà pris pour le trajet depuis l'aéroport) pour aller au Pettah Bazaar. Il s'agit d'un marché en plein air pour les habitants, pas vraiment pour les touristes (ce qui peut être très bien en d'autres circonstances). L'insupportable est que les vendeurs ont des mégaphones et amplis pour attirer la clientèle à leurs stands, c'est extrêmement bruyant et il y a foule. Il faut imaginer ça après une nuit dans l'avion ... Aucune personne du groupe n'a apprécié ce moment. Par contre j'avoue qu'il est difficile, lors de la première excursion, d'annoncer au guide qu'on ne veut pas y participer, et ce jour-là on espère déjà créer quelques liens avec les autres membres du groupe. A notre retour à l'hôtel, nous espérions passer un moment à la piscine pour se détendre avant le repas du soir, mais la piscine était déjà fermée pour la nuit. Si c'était à refaire, on se ferait porter pâles ...
Le programme pour les jours suivants n'a pas vraiment correspondu à ce qui était dans la brochure (même programme que dans l'actuelle brochure) mais c'était un parcours plus logique au niveau des distances à parcourir. Tous les sites ont été visités, mais dans un ordre différent. Heureusement que le guide a modifié l'ordre des visites, cela nous a permis de profiter de chaque site.
N'ayez aucune crainte pour l'ascension du Rocher d'Or, le bus vous dépose déjà à mi-parcours, et on a tout le temps de prendre son temps. De toute façon le dernier tronçon, le plus dur paraît-il, personne du groupe ne l'a fait (circonstances du moment que je ne relaterai pas ici). L'ascension du rocher de Sigiriya est aussi un grand moment : cela vaut la peine d'aller jusque tout en haut, les escaliers sont suffisamment larges, on peut se tenir à la rambarde, à mon avis mêmes des personnes peu habituées à marcher ou légèrement sujettes au vertige, peuvent y arriver, et le sommet est très vaste, aucun problème de vertige ou autre. Pour les Demoiselles de Sigiriya, apprenez (si ce n'est pas déjà fait) à utiliser votre appareil de photos sans flash, c'est sympa d'avoir un souvenir autre qu'une carte postale. Concernant les visites prévues au circuit, nous avons trouvé certaines d'entre elles magnifiques, voire exceptionnelles, et d'autres nous ont beaucoup déçus. Ceci est très personnel et certains autres membres du groupe n'ont pas ressenti les mêmes désappointements (certains avis étaient même à l'opposé du nôtre).
Peut-être êtes-vous familière des circuits, mais pour nous c'était le premier, et le fait de manger 3 repas par jour à une grande table de 23 personnes a été difficile au début, puisque nous n'avions pas pensé que les repas du soir seraient également à prendre avec le groupe (erreur de débutants). La prochaine fois nous nous préparerons psychologiquement ...
Je vous ai gardé le "meilleur" pour la fin : Le Taj Exotica est un très bel hôtel, avec de très belles chambres mais ... ce ne sont pas celles réservées par Jet Tours. Jet Tours a réservé pour vous les chambres de la catégorie la plus basse de l'hôtel (dixit le guide local), vous verrez si elles vous conviennent ... ce qui n'était pas le cas pour nous (je vous fais gré des multiples raisons). Nous devions faire 3 nuits dans cet hôtel et après la première nuit, nous avons présenté les photos de la chambre au guide local Jet tours en lui signifiant que ce n'était pas du tout ce que nous attendions et que l'état de cette chambre était indigne d'un hôtel de cette catégorie. Nous avons pu obtenir un surclassement de chambre sans frais pour les 2 nuits suivantes et avons passé un très agréable séjour dans cet endroit magnifique.
Chapitre Astuces : Changer votre argent à une banque qui est dans le hall des arrivées de l'aéroport, juste avant la sortie (votre guide attendra plus loin, après les guichets des agences de voyage et des banques). Le taux est meilleur que dans les hôtels, et demandez des "small notes" pour avoir de la monnaie dès le départ. Dans le pays, les vendeurs vous présentent d'abord leurs prix en euros, plutôt qu'en roupies. Beaucoup sont ensuite "encombrés" de pièces de monnaie en euros que les banques sur place ne reprennent pas. Alors ils seront contents si vous les leur échangez contre des billets de 10 euros. Le seul risque est d'alourdir vos bagages pour le retour ...
Dans les hôtels, les chambres sont souvent attribuées assez rapidement, mais les bagages ne suivent pas. Nous prenions chaque matin dans le bus un petit sac (allez le chercher le jour du départ au comptoir Jet Tours à l'aéroport CDG, il est pratique et offert) avec de quoi se doucher et se changer. Ainsi nous n'avions pas à attendre désespérément les valises alors que le seul souhait après une journée de bus est de prendre une douche et d'aller se balader dans les jardins de l'hôtel.
Prenez aussi de vieilles chaussettes : l'endroit où l'on se déchausse à l'entrée de l'enceinte des temples est parfois assez éloigné du temple en lui-même, ce qui fait qu'il faut parfois marcher sur un sol surchauffé ou caillouteux. Pour ce circuit, des sandales confortables qui tiennent bien le talon et avec une semelle épaisse (genre trekking) me semblent les chaussures les mieux adaptées.
Voilà, mon message est peut-être un peu bref, mais si vous avez d'autres questions, n'hésitez pas !
Témoignage très intéressant qui confirme que je ne pourrai jamais voyager en circuit organisé 😉
D'accord avec vous concernant le paludisme.
En revanche, quand vous écrivez que le bus est préférable au véhicule particulier, je ne suis pas de votre avis. Les chauffeurs de bus conduisent comme des fous, une des raisons en est la rivalité entre la compagnie publique (bus rouges) et la compagnie privée (bus blanc). Vous pouvez trouver sur ce forum plusieurs témoignages allant dans ce sens, y compris celui de personnes vivant au Sri Lanka comme Noma. Vous devez sans doute parler de bus privés affrétés par votre tour operator, je suppose que dans ce cas, la conduite du chauffeur est adaptée à sa clientèle. La conduite au Sri Lanka est très différente de celle dans nos pays occidentaux, mais je l'ai trouvée cohérente. J'ai croisé plusieurs familles de touristes qui avaient loué une voiture sans chauffeur et qui en étaient très satisfaites. Même en voiture, la moyenne ne dépasse pas 40 km/h.
L'état des routes va du bon (beaucoup de routes refaites dans le nord et l'est) à l'exécrable. De nombreuse routes sont en cours de réfection, donc pénibles à emprunter.
Pour le change, la règle générale est de ne jamais changer dans les hôtels. Les meilleurs taux de change au Sri Lanka sont obtenus chez les changeurs ou dans certaines bijouteries. Avec des billets en bon état d'un montant élevé (à partir de 50€ en ce qui concerne ma monnaie), on obtient un meilleur taux. A défaut, on change dans les banques dont plusieurs ont un guichet à l'aéroport.
D'accord avec vous concernant le paludisme.
En revanche, quand vous écrivez que le bus est préférable au véhicule particulier, je ne suis pas de votre avis. Les chauffeurs de bus conduisent comme des fous, une des raisons en est la rivalité entre la compagnie publique (bus rouges) et la compagnie privée (bus blanc). Vous pouvez trouver sur ce forum plusieurs témoignages allant dans ce sens, y compris celui de personnes vivant au Sri Lanka comme Noma. Vous devez sans doute parler de bus privés affrétés par votre tour operator, je suppose que dans ce cas, la conduite du chauffeur est adaptée à sa clientèle. La conduite au Sri Lanka est très différente de celle dans nos pays occidentaux, mais je l'ai trouvée cohérente. J'ai croisé plusieurs familles de touristes qui avaient loué une voiture sans chauffeur et qui en étaient très satisfaites. Même en voiture, la moyenne ne dépasse pas 40 km/h.
L'état des routes va du bon (beaucoup de routes refaites dans le nord et l'est) à l'exécrable. De nombreuse routes sont en cours de réfection, donc pénibles à emprunter.
Pour le change, la règle générale est de ne jamais changer dans les hôtels. Les meilleurs taux de change au Sri Lanka sont obtenus chez les changeurs ou dans certaines bijouteries. Avec des billets en bon état d'un montant élevé (à partir de 50€ en ce qui concerne ma monnaie), on obtient un meilleur taux. A défaut, on change dans les banques dont plusieurs ont un guichet à l'aéroport.
Bonjour,
Un grand merci pour toutes vos informations, nous avons hate de partir, concernant le vol Paris Colombo nous avons pu réserver 2 sièges en appelant Sri Lankan Airlines, nous serons à gauche coté hublot rangée 55 A et C par hasard etiez-vous dans ce secteur ?
Bonne journée.
alors là, je n'en reviens pas : la question des places dans l'avion ne devrait pas affleurer à votre esprit, c'est de si peu d'importance à l'aube d'un tel dépaysement, ça me fait un peu penser à ceux qui face aux bouddhas de Gal Vihara, s'inquiètent de savoir ce qu'ils mangeront au prochain repas et s'il y aura un bar à l'hôtel ... Un voyage en circuit organisé vous conviendra bien à mon avis ...
Sans rancune, je reste à votre disposition si vous avez des questions existentielles plus importantes ...
Sans rancune, je reste à votre disposition si vous avez des questions existentielles plus importantes ...
Je comprends que ma question vous choque un peu c'était surtout un petit clin d'oeil...... Ceci dit nous gardons de facheux souvenirs de certaines de nos longues destinations, coincés entre des personnes sans gène, et j'en passe....
Voilà pourquoi quand la compagnie le permet, pour etre un peu plus frais à l'arrivée, nous évitons certains sièges.
Nous sommes conscients de notre chance de pouvoir partir et se dépayser, et nous revenons toujours enrichis de nos périples......organisés ..... ou individuels, tout dépend de la destination et du temps dont nous disposons pour l'organisation. Dans l'ensemble le groupe nous pèse toujours un peu, il nous est aussi arrivé de nous faire de nouveaux amis que nous rencontrons pendant les vacances. Voilà un peu notre façon de visiter notre belle et précieuse planete et d'approcher les hotes qui la peuplent.
Merci pour vos réponses.
l'humour et les clins d'oeil sont difficiles à faire passer par écrit j'en conviens, c'est toujours un petit risque.
concernant les voyages en groupe, il faut essayer de prendre le meilleur de chacun et de ne pas s'arrêter sur les détails qui ne plaisent pas. Ce qui est sûr c'est que la réalité ne correspond souvent pas à la première image que l'on se fait de la personne. J'ai trouvé assez spécial de passer autant de temps avec des personnes non choisies, mais ce n'était pas non plus une expérience "catastrophique". Comme dans l'avion 😉 il faut un zeste de chance concernant la composition du groupe, je vous souhaite surtout que tous restent en pleine forme et de bonne humeur chaque matin ! Ce qui m'a le plus choquée, c'est l'attitude de certaines personnes par rapport aux populations locales (le sans-gêne et le manque de respect des coutumes et croyances locales), alors c'était parfois un peu la honte d'appartenir à ce groupe, mais ce ne sera pas forcément les mêmes attitudes dans votre groupe.
Dernière petite astuce à laquelle j'ai pensé : prenez une petite lampe de poche avec vous, elle est utile même en plein jour, quand les sanitaires n'ont pas de lumière ni de fenêtre, et que l'alternative est de laisser la porte ouverte ...
concernant les voyages en groupe, il faut essayer de prendre le meilleur de chacun et de ne pas s'arrêter sur les détails qui ne plaisent pas. Ce qui est sûr c'est que la réalité ne correspond souvent pas à la première image que l'on se fait de la personne. J'ai trouvé assez spécial de passer autant de temps avec des personnes non choisies, mais ce n'était pas non plus une expérience "catastrophique". Comme dans l'avion 😉 il faut un zeste de chance concernant la composition du groupe, je vous souhaite surtout que tous restent en pleine forme et de bonne humeur chaque matin ! Ce qui m'a le plus choquée, c'est l'attitude de certaines personnes par rapport aux populations locales (le sans-gêne et le manque de respect des coutumes et croyances locales), alors c'était parfois un peu la honte d'appartenir à ce groupe, mais ce ne sera pas forcément les mêmes attitudes dans votre groupe.
Dernière petite astuce à laquelle j'ai pensé : prenez une petite lampe de poche avec vous, elle est utile même en plein jour, quand les sanitaires n'ont pas de lumière ni de fenêtre, et que l'alternative est de laisser la porte ouverte ...
Bonjour,
Je pars 12 jours seule avec mes deux enfants de 12 et 3 ans.
je compte faire le trajet colombo-negombo-kandy-numera elyia-Ella-Parc de Yala-Pinawella et retour sur colombo en passant par mirissa et galle.
Qu'en pensez vous?? qu'est ce qui est à ne pas rater et faisable avec des enfants?
Vous avez des adresses de guesthouse pas cher à me proposer??
Jezaëlle
Je pars 12 jours seule avec mes deux enfants de 12 et 3 ans.
je compte faire le trajet colombo-negombo-kandy-numera elyia-Ella-Parc de Yala-Pinawella et retour sur colombo en passant par mirissa et galle.
Qu'en pensez vous?? qu'est ce qui est à ne pas rater et faisable avec des enfants?
Vous avez des adresses de guesthouse pas cher à me proposer??
Jezaëlle
Jaya
jewels@live.be
Dans la discussion, sur la partie gauche de l'écran, vous avez le nom des personnes qui y ont participé. Vous cliquez sur "lepiaf" et vous verrez son profil sur une nouvelle page. Tout en bas, vous trouverez un onglet qui dit "envoyer un message à lepiaf".
Toutefois je vous suggère de commencer une nouvelle discussion étant donné que votre voyage ne ressemble pas à ce dont on parle dans la présente discussion. Vous aurez ainsi plus de chance d'avoir des réponses satisfaisantes à vos questions.
Toutefois je vous suggère de commencer une nouvelle discussion étant donné que votre voyage ne ressemble pas à ce dont on parle dans la présente discussion. Vous aurez ainsi plus de chance d'avoir des réponses satisfaisantes à vos questions.
Bonjour et bon voyage car la date de départ approche.
J'apporte juste mon petit grain de sel concernant les moustiques. Canada 16 a raison sur ce point, il n'est pas utile de prendre un traitement anti paludéen, mais l'usage de répulsif est conseillé, prévoir également un spray à passer directement sur vos vêtements; très efficace. Ceci dit, le mois de mars n'est pas trop générateurs de ces petites bestioles.....pas très sympatiques!!
Quand aux routes elles sont à peu près bonnes mais la conduite des autochtones est un peu aléatoire et n'a pas grand chose à envier à celle des conducteurs indiens qui eux, c'est vrai, roulent sur des routes improbables!!!
A bientôt, la tête pleine de supers souvenirs.
J'apporte juste mon petit grain de sel concernant les moustiques. Canada 16 a raison sur ce point, il n'est pas utile de prendre un traitement anti paludéen, mais l'usage de répulsif est conseillé, prévoir également un spray à passer directement sur vos vêtements; très efficace. Ceci dit, le mois de mars n'est pas trop générateurs de ces petites bestioles.....pas très sympatiques!!
Quand aux routes elles sont à peu près bonnes mais la conduite des autochtones est un peu aléatoire et n'a pas grand chose à envier à celle des conducteurs indiens qui eux, c'est vrai, roulent sur des routes improbables!!!
A bientôt, la tête pleine de supers souvenirs.
Bonne route
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Bonjour. Je souhaitais connaître les possibilités d'hébergement pour des randonneurs sans guide. Je vois qu'il y a des campings, les tentes sont elles déjà montées ou bien faut il prévoir la sienne ? Idem pour le sac de couchage, les nôtres sont un peu juste je pense - 0° température confort - des couvertures sont elles prêtées ? J'imagine un campement ou tout est prévu avec la possibilité de manger mais j'ai peur de me tromper...
Merci d'avance
Hello, we’re planning a trip to Kerala, in South India, in January/February 2027. We’ve chosen our cities but we’re looking for a French-speaking driver to take us from one city to another: Kochi - Athirappily - Munnar - Kumarakom - Marari - Kochi.
If you have any leads, please don’t hesitate.
Best regards
Hi everyone!
I’m planning a short visit to Pokhara around mid-February 2027 (it’ll be my 4th time in Nepal 😊, over 40 years!). I’d like to book a room in advance rather than looking when I arrive. I’ve checked a bit on Bxxking.com and see lots of options. I’m used to scoping out the surroundings of places listed, just to avoid ending up in areas that are either unappealing or far from everything.
So, I see quite a few offers around the lake (Lakeside?), but every time I check what it looks like, the streets seem really uninviting. It’s kind of like a construction site with buildings everywhere… Nothing like Bhaktapur (for example) or even Thamel, where the streets seem way more pleasant.
Could anyone give me some advice?
Also, I don’t really get the impression that Pokhara is worth a visit of several days. The lake, sure, but once you’ve seen it—what else is there?
I’m planning a short visit to Pokhara around mid-February 2027 (it’ll be my 4th time in Nepal 😊, over 40 years!). I’d like to book a room in advance rather than looking when I arrive. I’ve checked a bit on Bxxking.com and see lots of options. I’m used to scoping out the surroundings of places listed, just to avoid ending up in areas that are either unappealing or far from everything.
So, I see quite a few offers around the lake (Lakeside?), but every time I check what it looks like, the streets seem really uninviting. It’s kind of like a construction site with buildings everywhere… Nothing like Bhaktapur (for example) or even Thamel, where the streets seem way more pleasant.
Could anyone give me some advice?
Also, I don’t really get the impression that Pokhara is worth a visit of several days. The lake, sure, but once you’ve seen it—what else is there?
Hi there.
I’m used to traveling around Asia, especially India, and I’d love to explore Nepal for about two weeks, stopping in Calcutta.
Backpacking trip, local transport.
Departing from Lyon.
If you’ve got an adventurous spirit and don’t mind taking it slow, get in touch!
I don’t do treks, but I’m a strong walker.
See you soon
Hi there,
After a false start in March 2026 due to my Qatar flights being canceled, I’m rescheduling a trip to Kerala for November. Back in March, I’d booked and paid for the 2-day/1-night trek: Tiger Trail in Periyar National Park. Then I read some terrible reviews about the park. On VF, the reviews are old and don’t mention the Tiger Trail. So, before I book again (I’ve got time), has anyone done it recently and can share their experience and impressions? I’m specifically talking about the Tiger Trail, not the park’s jeep/boat activities, which seem more like an amusement park. Thanks
After a false start in March 2026 due to my Qatar flights being canceled, I’m rescheduling a trip to Kerala for November. Back in March, I’d booked and paid for the 2-day/1-night trek: Tiger Trail in Periyar National Park. Then I read some terrible reviews about the park. On VF, the reviews are old and don’t mention the Tiger Trail. So, before I book again (I’ve got time), has anyone done it recently and can share their experience and impressions? I’m specifically talking about the Tiger Trail, not the park’s jeep/boat activities, which seem more like an amusement park. Thanks
Hi everyone,
I’m heading to Assam and I’d like to know what type of electrical adapter I need—is it M or D, or both?
Thanks
Hello,
I’m heading to Sri Lanka for 3 weeks in July with my two 11-year-old kids, and I’m wondering about how to organize the trip. We’re used to traveling on the go, staying 1 to 2 or 3 nights per place depending on how we feel.
Do you recommend planning the itinerary and booking accommodations in advance to save time once we’re there? Or is it pretty easy to organize everything as we go without any issues?
Same question for activities: Should we book safaris and tours ahead of time, or can we arrange them easily on the spot? Is there a risk of not getting a spot, for example, to visit a park since we’ll be there in July?
We’ll be using local transport (train, VTC via PickMe, tuk-tuk) to get from one place to another.
In short: Are there any must-book things we should reserve now? So far, I only have the flight tickets!
Thanks in advance for your help! 😊
I’m heading to Sri Lanka for 3 weeks in July with my two 11-year-old kids, and I’m wondering about how to organize the trip. We’re used to traveling on the go, staying 1 to 2 or 3 nights per place depending on how we feel.
Do you recommend planning the itinerary and booking accommodations in advance to save time once we’re there? Or is it pretty easy to organize everything as we go without any issues?
Same question for activities: Should we book safaris and tours ahead of time, or can we arrange them easily on the spot? Is there a risk of not getting a spot, for example, to visit a park since we’ll be there in July?
We’ll be using local transport (train, VTC via PickMe, tuk-tuk) to get from one place to another.
In short: Are there any must-book things we should reserve now? So far, I only have the flight tickets!
Thanks in advance for your help! 😊
Hi there, I think you're on the right track—you plan the itinerary and book the rooms in advance, and that’s it.
Not only do you save time, but you also know where you’ll be staying each night. Choosing well on Booking (or elsewhere) is actually a pleasure!
For safaris, given the number of jeeps with drivers available, it’s unlikely you’ll be turned away... the real issue is more about the concentration of jeeps around the animals.
I travel like you do—train, bus, tuk-tuk, and sometimes taxi. Ride-hailing apps like PickMe and other VTCs are mostly in big cities.
For the mountain train, due to severe flooding, service was interrupted on the line between Kandy and Ella. Check ahead, because reservations for this train are very complicated, if not impossible.
For the Colombo/Kandy train, you reserve your seats by buying the ticket before boarding. In the south, no need to book in advance for trains.
In Sri Lanka, there’s always a solution for getting around—just ask your hosts. They have trusted contacts at their fingertips. But still, compare prices—😏 smart move!
I stick to booking my nights and keep pre-planned activities to a minimum.
For reservations you can’t skip, it’s the beach stays you’ll want to secure.
Hi there,
I’m trying to find out if it’s still possible to travel from Mumbai to Goa by ferry or any other sea route. My search results aren’t very clear, and if it *is* possible, I can’t figure out where to book... If anyone has any info, I’d really appreciate it—thanks in advance!
Have a great day,
Virginie
I’m trying to find out if it’s still possible to travel from Mumbai to Goa by ferry or any other sea route. My search results aren’t very clear, and if it *is* possible, I can’t figure out where to book... If anyone has any info, I’d really appreciate it—thanks in advance!
Have a great day,
Virginie
It seems there’s a ferry from Nagapattinam to Jaffna in India. Has anyone here taken this ferry before? My main question is how to get to Nagapattinam—by train, bus? And from which town further south, of course.
Thanks, friends!
Gaston
Gaston
Hi there.
We’re spending a month in Sri Lanka in March, and we’ll have one week left after leaving Polonnaruwa.
We’re torn between spending it in the Jaffna region or on the east coast between Batticaloa and Trincomalee.
We’re divers, so the east coast appeals to us for snorkeling, beaches, and lagoons—but it seems like late March might not be the best time for that coast. What do you think?
As for Jaffna, the culture of the region, its more authentic feel since it’s less touristy, and the offshore islands all appeal to us too—but it seems far from the rest of the country and harder to access.
We have to choose because we won’t be able to visit both sides, and I’d love to hear your thoughts.
Thanks, Marie
Hi there,
We just got back from a 2-week trip to Sri Lanka as a couple, and while planning the trip, we found plenty of info on the itinerary, places to see, and transportation, but much fewer clear reports on the actual budget to expect once there. Yet, that was an important point for us because we like to plan ahead a little before traveling.
So, we took the time to break down our complete budget after the trip. In our case, we spent around **930 € per person** for 2 weeks, being careful without depriving ourselves, mixing guesthouses, more comfortable hotels, quite a few activities, and even a private driver for part of the stay.
What we found interesting when crunching the numbers is that in Sri Lanka, it’s not necessarily meals or short trips that blow the budget, but rather flights, certain accommodations, cultural activities, and all those little expenses we sometimes forget, like tips.
If this can help other travelers get a better idea, we’ve put everything together on our blog with our experience, a detailed breakdown of expenses, and practical info on money while there, withdrawals, and tipping:
https://aventures-sans-mesaventure.com/budget-sri-lanka-pour-un-voyage-de-2-semaines/
Happy travels and enjoy your adventure! !
Happy travels and enjoy your adventure! !
Hi everyone,
We’re a group of 5 heading to the Everest Base Camp trek in early April. We won’t have a porter or guide—we’re used to hiking independently and have already done the Langtang trek and the Annapurna Circuit (back in 2003!).
I’d love to know if it’s necessary to book lodges in advance or if we’ll easily find availability during this busy season. Also, will we find lodges all along the route between the main stopover villages, or only in those villages? I remember there were plenty everywhere on the Annapurna Circuit. We want to stay as flexible as possible.
Thanks for your feedback!
We’re a group of 5 heading to the Everest Base Camp trek in early April. We won’t have a porter or guide—we’re used to hiking independently and have already done the Langtang trek and the Annapurna Circuit (back in 2003!).
I’d love to know if it’s necessary to book lodges in advance or if we’ll easily find availability during this busy season. Also, will we find lodges all along the route between the main stopover villages, or only in those villages? I remember there were plenty everywhere on the Annapurna Circuit. We want to stay as flexible as possible.
Thanks for your feedback!
Hi there,
We’re heading to India in March 2026 and had planned to visit the parts of the Meenakshi Temple that are open to non-Hindus. However, the temple is currently undergoing major renovations—with all the towers covered in scaffolding—which might really take away from the experience and our stop in Madurai.
After some frustrating and vague online searches, and before we reshuffle our itinerary, I’d love to know—if possible—the most accurate expected completion date for the renovation work.
Thanks in advance.
We’re heading to India in March 2026 and had planned to visit the parts of the Meenakshi Temple that are open to non-Hindus. However, the temple is currently undergoing major renovations—with all the towers covered in scaffolding—which might really take away from the experience and our stop in Madurai.
After some frustrating and vague online searches, and before we reshuffle our itinerary, I’d love to know—if possible—the most accurate expected completion date for the renovation work.
Thanks in advance.
Hi there,
We’re planning a trip to Nepal and would love to do a helicopter tour to Everest with Namche Heli Service. Has anyone here used this agency? I can’t seem to find any reviews online. Thanks in advance!
Kloki
We’re planning a trip to Nepal and would love to do a helicopter tour to Everest with Namche Heli Service. Has anyone here used this agency? I can’t seem to find any reviews online. Thanks in advance!
Kloki
Hey fellow travelers,
I’m spending two weeks studying Hindi in the mornings in Delhi, in the Hauz Khas neighborhood. What spots should I check out in this area? Any cafés to chill at? How do I get to other parts of Delhi? By rickshaw? Is it easy to negotiate the price upfront?
Thanks in advance. 😊 Marlène
I’m spending two weeks studying Hindi in the mornings in Delhi, in the Hauz Khas neighborhood. What spots should I check out in this area? Any cafés to chill at? How do I get to other parts of Delhi? By rickshaw? Is it easy to negotiate the price upfront?
Thanks in advance. 😊 Marlène
Hi,
I’m leaving this Saturday for Northern India from 15/02 to 27/02. I’m planning to visit New Delhi, Agra, Chand Baori, Jaipur, Ranthambore, Bundi, Udaipur, and Jodhpur.
What’s the best way to get around? I was thinking of doing everything by train. Maybe taking the bus for some stretches?
As for renting a car with a driver, it seems expensive, so I’ve pretty much ruled that out. Unless someone’s got space for the same dates?
Thanks for your insights!
What’s the best way to get around? I was thinking of doing everything by train. Maybe taking the bus for some stretches?
As for renting a car with a driver, it seems expensive, so I’ve pretty much ruled that out. Unless someone’s got space for the same dates?
Thanks for your insights!
Hi everyone,
We’re heading out in March for this trek. We’re used to hiking and long-distance treks, but this’ll be our first time in Nepal.
QUESTION: People from Nepal are telling us it’s MANDATORY to have guides! Is this true, or is it just agencies trying to get work for their staff?
The Lonely Planet says: "In April 2023, the government announced that every trekker would need to hire the services of a porter or a licensed guide to obtain the TIMS permit. The law isn’t enforced, and by 2025, there were no longer any obligations for teahouse treks."
What do you think? What’s your experience? Thanks for your feedback.
We’re heading out in March for this trek. We’re used to hiking and long-distance treks, but this’ll be our first time in Nepal.
QUESTION: People from Nepal are telling us it’s MANDATORY to have guides! Is this true, or is it just agencies trying to get work for their staff?
The Lonely Planet says: "In April 2023, the government announced that every trekker would need to hire the services of a porter or a licensed guide to obtain the TIMS permit. The law isn’t enforced, and by 2025, there were no longer any obligations for teahouse treks."
What do you think? What’s your experience? Thanks for your feedback.
Hi,
I’d like to arrive in India at New Delhi Airport with some cash. I was wondering if the exchange rates at the airport are any good or if it’s best to avoid them (and exchange in the city instead?).
Thanks for your help.
Thanks for your help.
NAMASTE NEPAL! PRACTICAL INFO AND EXPERIENCE FEEDBACK
Stay from March 25 to April 16, 2025
· Flight tickets Air India (via Delhi) (via Skyscanner) = 1130 € per person · Planned budget (and respected without too many restrictions and while buying a few small gifts) = 2000 € for the stay for two. Buses, taxis, and entrance fees to various sites represent a budget to consider. Meals are cheap. Drinks like beer/Coke, however, are not cheap and cost the equivalent of a meal. · Exchange rate of the rupee during our stay = 0.0064 € (the exchange rate is almost identical everywhere, including at the airport). · At the airport, purchase of two SIM cards (phone) = 1000 NPR x 2 for 28 days. · Kathmandu: we had booked the hotel upon arrival: Kathmandu Boutique Hotel (+977 015 357 446 – email: booking@kathmanduboutiquehotel.com), very well located in a quiet alley off the street, south of Thamel, a 10-minute walk from Durbar Square. A hotel like Nepal knows how to do, where tall people will have to duck. Night + breakfast = 18 € for two. Very warm welcome, great location, excellent value for money. · Bhaktapur: we had also booked a hotel for the end of our stay because the chance of the year 2025 made the Nepali New Year and Bisket Jatra particularly festive in Bhaktapur: Manju Baha Hotel School (+977 976 7234014 – email: manjubahahotel@gmail.com) located in an old monastery. "A social enterprise transforming an old monastery into a charming hotel, offering professional hospitality training to underprivileged Nepali youth." Night + breakfast = 32 € for two. Beautifully decorated room. Very warm welcome. Don’t miss the Changunarayan site (near Bhaktapur), it’s amazing. And if you’re lucky enough to be in Bhaktapur in mid-April for 3 days, there’s the Bisket Jatra festivities (Newari festival), joyful, noisy, fun, and wild… · Pokhara (hotel recommended by the Kathmandu hotel): Hotel Green Tara, Lakeside, 10th street, set back, quiet (Tel. +977 61 462698 – email: greentara_67@hotmail.com) · Trek permit (Lower Mustang, no need for an agency or guide, permits checked at Ghasa and Jomsom) = 2000 NPR per person (2 ID photos) · Bus Kathmandu/Pokhara and return = 2000 NPR per person · Bus Pokhara/Jomsom, 2 one-way tickets = 2800 NPR. · Taxi: negotiation with a driver we recommend, Vicky (+977 984 075 599). You explain what you want, negotiate the price, and he waits for you during the visit. Very charming, we used him several times. For example: departure from our hotel at 10 AM -> Boudhanath/Pashupatinath/Patan return at 5 PM to the hotel = 6500 NPR – Swayambhunath (round trip) = 1200 NPR · Site prices: https://ntb.gov.np/plan-your-trip/before-you-come/heritage-site-entry-fees o Visitor Pass for Kathmandu Durbar Square (for the duration of the stay, show your visa) = 1000 NPR per person (1 ID photo) o Bhaktapur Durbar Square (old town) = 1800 NPR per person o Patan = 1000 NPR per person o Swayambhu Stupa = 200 NPR per person o Boudha Stupa = 200 NPR per person o Pashupatinath Temple = 1000 NPR per person (interesting to take a guide) o Changunarayan Temple (6 km north of Bhaktapur) = 400 NPR per person o Mountain Museum in Pokhara = 750 NPR per person · E-cigarettes: e-cigarettes are banned in India and confiscated whether they’re in carry-on or checked luggage. On the way there, we had kept them in our carry-on, they were confiscated in Delhi. On the way back, learning from our previous experience, we put them in our checked luggage. Someone came to get us to take them out of our bags and confiscate them… You can find e-cigarettes and products in Kathmandu.
* * *
I’m 74 years old. I went to Nepal in 1982, 1983, and the last time in 1986. I wanted to introduce this beautiful and endearing country to my husband, and it was… now or never. So we decided it was now.
I knew the trek starting from Pokhara: Naudanda/Birethanti/Ghorepani/Tatopani/Kalopani. There was no way I was going to do that trek, especially the 1000-meter staircase to reach Ghorepani… You have to stay humble with age.
Back then, the road didn’t exist. I didn’t consider, with the construction of this road (NH48) along the western bank of the Kali Gandaki, doing a trek along a windy and dusty road. Was there an alternative hiking trail on the eastern bank? No one answered my question on VoyageForum, so I did my research online. And I found this site: "Andrées de Ruiter and Prem Rai - Trekking the Annapurna Circuit, including the new NATT trails that avoid the road - A guide to one of the most beautiful trekking regions in Nepal and the world (2011) - NATT = New Annapurna Trekking Trail".
Phew! A solution was emerging. This circuit from 2011 wasn’t fully marked. The idea was to go from Jomsom to Tatopani, so we needed to make sure the path was well-marked all the way, which we did, and the path exists, marked in red and white!
So, with the walking times information, we built our 8-day circuit:
· Jomsom/Thinigaon · Thinigaon/Chimang · Chimang/Saura · Saura/Kokhetanti · Rest day or, if in good shape: loop to Sekong Lake · Kokhetanti/Jhipra Deurali · Jhipra Deurali/Kopchepani · Kopchepani/Tatopani
It’s a senior trek, after all. So the walking times noted on the sites indicated 3 hours or even 4 hours for the two longest stages. That pace suited us fine.
On March 29, we left Kathmandu (1400m), after visiting the must-see sites, by bus to Pokhara: 200 km and 8.5 hours on a chaotic road under construction. I had a memory of Pokhara where it was the first city where you could see the Himalayan range, especially Machhapuchhare. But the pollution is such, the dust raised by traffic and construction, that no horizon is visible except the first hills around Pokhara.
We stayed 24 hours in Pokhara (820m), and on March 31, we left our luggage at the hotel and set off with our lightest backpacks: change of clothes, toiletries, first aid kit, anti-chafing cream, water bottle, sleeping bag liner, and light shoes for the stages.
We took the bus to Jomsom: 160 km/7.5 hours including stops for bathroom breaks, tea, and lunch. The road is nothing but a chaos of potholes, landslides, construction, dust, rebuilding, and mudslides. In Ghasa, the bus stops, and we’re told we’re at a checkpoint and that the two foreigners in the bus, my husband and I, need to have our permits checked, which takes a few minutes. The driving is rock-and-roll, surprising, and courteous. The drivers have their codes, and on these improbable roads, they’re virtuosos.
We could have chosen the plane, but several reasons dissuaded us: if there’s too much wind, the planes don’t take off; personally, I wasn’t reassured about landing in Jomsom, and this transport has a cost.
We arrived around 2 PM in Jomsom (2720m), and despite the early wake-up, the nearly 8 hours on the bus, and the altitude, we decided to head straight to Thinigaon (2840m). At the Jomsom checkpoint, they told us it was a 30-minute walk. Great! Except we took an hour and a half on an uphill road, bent over to fight a strong wind. But the Himalayan range is there! The Dhaulagiri, the Nilgiri, the Annapurnas as a reward.
In Thinigaon, we found a room at the "Nilgiri View Hotel" run by a didi (big sister in Nepali). From the lodge’s roof, she proudly showed us the different peaks surrounding the village and told us, worried, that it hadn’t snowed here for 3 years. She said there are very few tourists, that the season is rather in September/October/November. It seems there’s not a soul in this village, yet mules pass through the narrow street paved with large flat stones, their bells ringing. We dine at 6 PM and go to bed… Room = 1200 NPR and dinner, breakfast, and drinks = 2560 NPR.
On April 1, we set off at 9 AM, not for Chimang as planned but for Marpha! The didi from the Thinigaon lodge had said it was a 3-hour walk. The first part of this stage is attractive, the mountains are magnificent and imposing, the landscape is superb, there’s no one around, a feeling of being "alone in the world." We follow Dhumbra Tal, this small green lake. The path is a rocky track that climbs steeply. Then, around a hill, we start the big descent that joins the Kali Gandaki. We face the wind head-on, and the violent gusts take our breath away, throw us off balance, and envelop us in dust. We see the road on the other side of the Kali Gandaki. We arrive in the village of Chhairo at 2 PM, completely exhausted and with blistered feet, after 5 hours of walking instead of the planned 3.5 hours.
We’re welcomed by the village nurse, who tells us there’s a lodge in the village. Chhairo is a Tibetan village, a 20-minute walk from Marpha (according to the locals, multiply by 2 or even 3 for us…). We’re going to revise our trek plan and, first of all, spend the night in Chhairo.
The lodge is quite pleasant, and Karma, the hostess, is very friendly. She asks about our plans and suggests we stay in Chhairo the next day, from where we can visit Marpha and also Chimang, a 1-hour walk away, in light mode, meaning without backpacks. She invites us to participate in a village ceremony the next evening.
We immediately accept the proposal, as our feet need rest and the welcome is so warm… Dinner and bed!
We reworked our trek plan, which was too ambitious for our untrained bodies and, let’s face it… no longer in our first youth. In the initial plan, we thought there wouldn’t be too much elevation gain following the Kali Gandaki, but checking the map, we realize there might be significant elevation changes between Sauru and Sirkung. So we plan:
· Tomorrow: visit Marpha (2670m) and Chimang (2744m) · April 3: bus from Chhairo (2700m) to Kalopani (2530m) and continue on foot to Ghasa (2010m) · April 4: Ghasa/Pairataplo (1940m) · April 5: Pairatapla/Gadpar (1580m) · April 6: Gadpar/Narchyang (1510m) · April 7: Narchyang/Tatopani (1190m) · April 8: return to Pokhara.
Normally, it’s all downhill…
April 2, a rest day then… We set off in the morning to explore Marpha. We have to take a temporary bridge because the suspension bridge is closed due to road construction. We join the road and arrive in Marpha, a village famous for its apple orchards, brandy, cider, and apple juice production. This village is magnificent with its stone houses and monastery clinging to the hillside. The road construction spared it. There are people, but very few Western tourists.
We have lunch in Marpha and go back through Chhairo to take the path to Chimang. We cross a fragrant pine forest and find the rocky path; the landscape is splendid. We walk quietly, passing peaceful buffaloes and cows, and arrive at the foot of a stone staircase… 275 steps (which we counted on the way back) leading us to the village of Chimang. Chimang is an isolated Newari village that seems a bit desolate. Despite the slopes, there are crops on every little bit of land. Thankfully, we changed our initial program because there’s no lodge in this village, contrary to what we saw on a map… We wander through the village, which seems very deserted, have coffee in a house from another world, and then head back to Chhairo.
A rest day? = 5 hours of walking!!
Dinner and village ceremony. From what we understand, this ceremony is in honor of the Dalai Lama. Men, women, and children in traditional costumes gather twice a month; they dance, make, and offer small sweet cakes with Tibetan tea (made from tea, yak butter—often rancid—water, and salt). Surprising for first-timers…
Around 10 PM, we leave the ceremony; tomorrow morning, we need to be on the roadside by 7 AM to catch the bus to Kalopani…
This village of Chhairo is very pleasant and welcoming, no tourists, just two motorcyclists who arrived in the evening, one of whom participated in the ceremony and discreetly poured his Tibetan tea outside.
Lodge: "Norsang Tibetan Guesthouse and Restaurant". Total bill for 2 nights, 2 dinners, 2 breakfasts, and drinks = 8000 NPR.
April 3: bus from Chhairo to Kalopani, about 1.5 hours for the 20 km (200 NPR per person). We descend on the right bank of the Kali Gandaki. We find the red and white markings to resume the trek toward Ghasa. We’re in a fragrant pine forest, the Dhaulagiri on one side and the Annapurnas on the other, magnificent, and the path is pleasant and easy. We get a bit lost in this forest, always looking for the markings. Near Lete, two trekkers pass us, and we meet them again a little further on with two very young children, to whom we give the 2 hard-boiled eggs I didn’t eat this morning. They accepted them without hesitation.
We arrive in a village and ask for directions to Ghasa. The young girls point the way. But we come across a forest being logged, trees cut in all directions. We turn back and ask for confirmation. They confirm… But the two young girls catch up with us and clear the way. We have to step over, go around, and cross the felled trees, with no indication at all. Through this pick-up sticks of felled trees, the girls lead us to the top of a stone staircase, indicating that was the path. It’s the only place where we saw rhododendrons in bloom.
We descend the staircase. At the bottom, to the left, there’s a bridge to go toward Choyo, and to the right, a path to Ghasa. We take the right path and join the road. We should normally find the red and white markings, but we don’t… So we continue on the western bank road of the Kali Gandaki.
A little before the village of Misi, we see fumaroles on the opposite bank that seem to come from the ground. We don’t understand. We stopped to eat in the village of Misi (noodle soup = 600 NPR), but it’s hard to communicate with the elderly people running the guesthouse.
We continued on the road, not finding the marked path parallel to the road. Landslides, both on the left and right banks, seem to have taken over the marked routes. It’s a place where the Kali Gandaki gorge narrows, and on the opposite bank, the mountain smokes more and more, and we now hear the crackling of fire. Across from us, the mountain is burning… Our initial plan had us passing on that burning bank right now…
We arrive in Ghasa at 3:30 PM, a 6.5-hour stage but with a 1-hour stop at noon. We’re at the "Florida Guesthouse and Restaurant." From our room, we see the mountain smoking on the other side of the river, and at night, we see the flames. In this village, posters show Himalayan eagles and vultures that seem to be protected species. Indeed, we saw (and heard) 3 eagles circling today.
April 4 – Today, heading to Pairothapla or Kopchepani depending on our feet, accommodation options, and simply our desires.
No more smoke on the mountain this morning. It’s chilly, 7:45 AM, the sky is clear, just a smell of smoke outside.
Price of the lodge = 1000 NPR for the night + 3580 NPR for meals.
We cross Ghasa, which stretches over more than a kilometer. We have a drink at the last guesthouse in the village, and the didi, when she learns our destination, tells us to be careful because the villages we’re going to aren’t safe. Should we distribute our rupees in different pockets? Nah, we kept going.
At the exit of Ghasa, we find the red and white markings and take the suspension bridge to cross the boiling waters of the Kali Gandaki. The passage is impressive because the river is tumultuous. Lots of climbs and even more descents. We’re back on the eastern bank. It’s hot! On the narrow path, we meet a group of buffaloes. Who has the right of way? We decide to stick as close as possible to the rock wall and move forward calmly. The buffaloes look at us, chewing placidly, with no intention of jumping on us. Phew!
After a 5-hour stage (including stops), we arrive in Pairothapla, with hot feet and firm thighs, and decide we won’t go any further. It’s a good thing because there’s a lodge, the most basic so far, but with a great welcome. We have a meal and a short nap. The buffaloes we met on the way belong to this house. They come to drink at the fountain by the path.
Our host, very pleasant, doesn’t know what to do to please us and is very attentive. He wants to chat. He has two children, a 4-year-old girl and a 7-year-old boy. Where do they go to school? Do they go? He tells us that the fires in the mountain are caused by people, but for what reason? We won’t find out, but it’s illegal. From here, we can still see smoke rising in the distance. The wife is a bit less friendly. Corn kernels dry on a woven straw mat on the ground, and the mom sorts them.
From where we are, we overlook the valley and see the road under construction winding along the mountainside on the other bank.
Dinner on the terrace of the house overlooking the path, windbreaker and fleece on: dal bhat chicken for me and chicken curry for my husband: "organic" products, at least local production. There are small vegetable gardens everywhere with all sorts of vegetables.
April 5 – While we’re having breakfast on the terrace of our lodge, 5 porters, straps on their foreheads, heavily loaded, pass by on the path. A few minutes later, a group of 9 people appears. It must be said that since the beginning of our journey, we’ve met very few hikers. Two backpackers in Chhairo, the two hikers near Lete, two female hikers passed us before Pairothapla, a solo female hiker passed us…
The lodge in Pairothapla is called "Bimala Lodge & Thakali Kitchen" – Price for night + 4 meals + 2 breakfasts = 3000 NPR.
The descent toward the Kali Gandaki involves climbs whose steps we didn’t count. Clearly, the landslides on the mountain cause changes to the official ACAP trek marked in red and white, and the marking updates can’t keep up with the pace of these landslides. It’s almost always by chance that we find the markings. Fortunately, we can follow the power line that guides us somewhat.
Drink stop in Kopchepani, the legs are fine, but the feet don’t like being tightly enclosed. A group of trekkers with porters passes on the path. We met buffaloes that we kindly let pass; the path was wide enough, but it was a staircase going up, and we didn’t want to take any risks.
Across, a view of the magnificent Rupse Waterfall on the other bank of the Kali Gandaki, at the bottom, lots of vehicles and people.
Arrival in Gadpar after crossing a rather unwelcoming small village and cultivated gardens between dry stone walls, each better built than the last.
First lodge spotted, first lodge adopted to answer the call of our feet, and a very warm welcome from the owner. Since we hadn’t eaten at noon, we had Tibetan bread/jam. 6-hour stage including 1 hour of stops. Night + dinner + breakfast + drinks = 5060 NPR
April 6 – Today, heading to Narchyang.
For several days, we’ve seen banana trees with their bunches of fruit and even a prickly pear with large fruits ripening.
This stage is quite peaceful and pleasant. We take a suspension bridge to cross a tributary of the Kali Gandaki. While we’re resting for a moment before crossing the bridge, a couple of porters, a man and a woman, arrive and start across the bridge with their wood load in a basket held by a strap on their forehead, making them bend. We set off too… lighter than them.
On the other side of the bridge… a stone staircase, and it climbs steeply. The porter couple didn’t take this staircase; they went right on the path.
At the top of the staircase, we arrive in Narchyang after a 4-hour stage. A magnificent waterfall overlooks the village. We get lost in this fairly large village looking for a lodge. After wandering around for a while, we ask for directions, and an 84-year-old man takes us through the whole village and accompanies us to a very nice lodge run by a woman.
We chat with our hostess, who asks where we’re from and where we’re going. We explain that we want to reach Tatopani the next day and then return to Pokhara. She tells us there are 4x4s going directly to Pokhara and that it would probably be easier than taking a bus that might be full in Tatopani. After a quick consultation, we decide to return to Pokhara the next day by 4x4. She finds us a 4x4 with 2 seats left, departure at 8 AM – 5 hours on the road and 1500 NPR per person. A charming didi who does everything to be pleasant and helpful.
Narchyang community lodge = night + snacks + dinner + breakfast = 3000 NPR.
There you go, our trek ends tomorrow. Many necessary changes and adaptations to our initial trek, but no regrets, it was superb and a great experience that, for my part, I won’t be able to repeat. Always this encounter with the endearing, welcoming, curious, and very kind Nepali people. It was now or never, and we did it!
* * *
In conclusion, 3 full weeks in Nepal is a duration that allows visiting Kathmandu, Patan, and Bhaktapur, enjoying the various sites, and soaking in the atmosphere and urban Nepali life.
The trek, even revised and corrected, allowed us to get close to the impressive Annapurna and Dhaulagiri peaks. One or two acclimatization days might be necessary to get the body in tune with this magical and extraordinary land.
Stay from March 25 to April 16, 2025
· Flight tickets Air India (via Delhi) (via Skyscanner) = 1130 € per person · Planned budget (and respected without too many restrictions and while buying a few small gifts) = 2000 € for the stay for two. Buses, taxis, and entrance fees to various sites represent a budget to consider. Meals are cheap. Drinks like beer/Coke, however, are not cheap and cost the equivalent of a meal. · Exchange rate of the rupee during our stay = 0.0064 € (the exchange rate is almost identical everywhere, including at the airport). · At the airport, purchase of two SIM cards (phone) = 1000 NPR x 2 for 28 days. · Kathmandu: we had booked the hotel upon arrival: Kathmandu Boutique Hotel (+977 015 357 446 – email: booking@kathmanduboutiquehotel.com), very well located in a quiet alley off the street, south of Thamel, a 10-minute walk from Durbar Square. A hotel like Nepal knows how to do, where tall people will have to duck. Night + breakfast = 18 € for two. Very warm welcome, great location, excellent value for money. · Bhaktapur: we had also booked a hotel for the end of our stay because the chance of the year 2025 made the Nepali New Year and Bisket Jatra particularly festive in Bhaktapur: Manju Baha Hotel School (+977 976 7234014 – email: manjubahahotel@gmail.com) located in an old monastery. "A social enterprise transforming an old monastery into a charming hotel, offering professional hospitality training to underprivileged Nepali youth." Night + breakfast = 32 € for two. Beautifully decorated room. Very warm welcome. Don’t miss the Changunarayan site (near Bhaktapur), it’s amazing. And if you’re lucky enough to be in Bhaktapur in mid-April for 3 days, there’s the Bisket Jatra festivities (Newari festival), joyful, noisy, fun, and wild… · Pokhara (hotel recommended by the Kathmandu hotel): Hotel Green Tara, Lakeside, 10th street, set back, quiet (Tel. +977 61 462698 – email: greentara_67@hotmail.com) · Trek permit (Lower Mustang, no need for an agency or guide, permits checked at Ghasa and Jomsom) = 2000 NPR per person (2 ID photos) · Bus Kathmandu/Pokhara and return = 2000 NPR per person · Bus Pokhara/Jomsom, 2 one-way tickets = 2800 NPR. · Taxi: negotiation with a driver we recommend, Vicky (+977 984 075 599). You explain what you want, negotiate the price, and he waits for you during the visit. Very charming, we used him several times. For example: departure from our hotel at 10 AM -> Boudhanath/Pashupatinath/Patan return at 5 PM to the hotel = 6500 NPR – Swayambhunath (round trip) = 1200 NPR · Site prices: https://ntb.gov.np/plan-your-trip/before-you-come/heritage-site-entry-fees o Visitor Pass for Kathmandu Durbar Square (for the duration of the stay, show your visa) = 1000 NPR per person (1 ID photo) o Bhaktapur Durbar Square (old town) = 1800 NPR per person o Patan = 1000 NPR per person o Swayambhu Stupa = 200 NPR per person o Boudha Stupa = 200 NPR per person o Pashupatinath Temple = 1000 NPR per person (interesting to take a guide) o Changunarayan Temple (6 km north of Bhaktapur) = 400 NPR per person o Mountain Museum in Pokhara = 750 NPR per person · E-cigarettes: e-cigarettes are banned in India and confiscated whether they’re in carry-on or checked luggage. On the way there, we had kept them in our carry-on, they were confiscated in Delhi. On the way back, learning from our previous experience, we put them in our checked luggage. Someone came to get us to take them out of our bags and confiscate them… You can find e-cigarettes and products in Kathmandu.
* * *
I’m 74 years old. I went to Nepal in 1982, 1983, and the last time in 1986. I wanted to introduce this beautiful and endearing country to my husband, and it was… now or never. So we decided it was now.
I knew the trek starting from Pokhara: Naudanda/Birethanti/Ghorepani/Tatopani/Kalopani. There was no way I was going to do that trek, especially the 1000-meter staircase to reach Ghorepani… You have to stay humble with age.
Back then, the road didn’t exist. I didn’t consider, with the construction of this road (NH48) along the western bank of the Kali Gandaki, doing a trek along a windy and dusty road. Was there an alternative hiking trail on the eastern bank? No one answered my question on VoyageForum, so I did my research online. And I found this site: "Andrées de Ruiter and Prem Rai - Trekking the Annapurna Circuit, including the new NATT trails that avoid the road - A guide to one of the most beautiful trekking regions in Nepal and the world (2011) - NATT = New Annapurna Trekking Trail".
Phew! A solution was emerging. This circuit from 2011 wasn’t fully marked. The idea was to go from Jomsom to Tatopani, so we needed to make sure the path was well-marked all the way, which we did, and the path exists, marked in red and white!
So, with the walking times information, we built our 8-day circuit:
· Jomsom/Thinigaon · Thinigaon/Chimang · Chimang/Saura · Saura/Kokhetanti · Rest day or, if in good shape: loop to Sekong Lake · Kokhetanti/Jhipra Deurali · Jhipra Deurali/Kopchepani · Kopchepani/Tatopani
It’s a senior trek, after all. So the walking times noted on the sites indicated 3 hours or even 4 hours for the two longest stages. That pace suited us fine.
On March 29, we left Kathmandu (1400m), after visiting the must-see sites, by bus to Pokhara: 200 km and 8.5 hours on a chaotic road under construction. I had a memory of Pokhara where it was the first city where you could see the Himalayan range, especially Machhapuchhare. But the pollution is such, the dust raised by traffic and construction, that no horizon is visible except the first hills around Pokhara.
We stayed 24 hours in Pokhara (820m), and on March 31, we left our luggage at the hotel and set off with our lightest backpacks: change of clothes, toiletries, first aid kit, anti-chafing cream, water bottle, sleeping bag liner, and light shoes for the stages.
We took the bus to Jomsom: 160 km/7.5 hours including stops for bathroom breaks, tea, and lunch. The road is nothing but a chaos of potholes, landslides, construction, dust, rebuilding, and mudslides. In Ghasa, the bus stops, and we’re told we’re at a checkpoint and that the two foreigners in the bus, my husband and I, need to have our permits checked, which takes a few minutes. The driving is rock-and-roll, surprising, and courteous. The drivers have their codes, and on these improbable roads, they’re virtuosos.
We could have chosen the plane, but several reasons dissuaded us: if there’s too much wind, the planes don’t take off; personally, I wasn’t reassured about landing in Jomsom, and this transport has a cost.
We arrived around 2 PM in Jomsom (2720m), and despite the early wake-up, the nearly 8 hours on the bus, and the altitude, we decided to head straight to Thinigaon (2840m). At the Jomsom checkpoint, they told us it was a 30-minute walk. Great! Except we took an hour and a half on an uphill road, bent over to fight a strong wind. But the Himalayan range is there! The Dhaulagiri, the Nilgiri, the Annapurnas as a reward.
In Thinigaon, we found a room at the "Nilgiri View Hotel" run by a didi (big sister in Nepali). From the lodge’s roof, she proudly showed us the different peaks surrounding the village and told us, worried, that it hadn’t snowed here for 3 years. She said there are very few tourists, that the season is rather in September/October/November. It seems there’s not a soul in this village, yet mules pass through the narrow street paved with large flat stones, their bells ringing. We dine at 6 PM and go to bed… Room = 1200 NPR and dinner, breakfast, and drinks = 2560 NPR.
On April 1, we set off at 9 AM, not for Chimang as planned but for Marpha! The didi from the Thinigaon lodge had said it was a 3-hour walk. The first part of this stage is attractive, the mountains are magnificent and imposing, the landscape is superb, there’s no one around, a feeling of being "alone in the world." We follow Dhumbra Tal, this small green lake. The path is a rocky track that climbs steeply. Then, around a hill, we start the big descent that joins the Kali Gandaki. We face the wind head-on, and the violent gusts take our breath away, throw us off balance, and envelop us in dust. We see the road on the other side of the Kali Gandaki. We arrive in the village of Chhairo at 2 PM, completely exhausted and with blistered feet, after 5 hours of walking instead of the planned 3.5 hours.
We’re welcomed by the village nurse, who tells us there’s a lodge in the village. Chhairo is a Tibetan village, a 20-minute walk from Marpha (according to the locals, multiply by 2 or even 3 for us…). We’re going to revise our trek plan and, first of all, spend the night in Chhairo.
The lodge is quite pleasant, and Karma, the hostess, is very friendly. She asks about our plans and suggests we stay in Chhairo the next day, from where we can visit Marpha and also Chimang, a 1-hour walk away, in light mode, meaning without backpacks. She invites us to participate in a village ceremony the next evening.
We immediately accept the proposal, as our feet need rest and the welcome is so warm… Dinner and bed!
We reworked our trek plan, which was too ambitious for our untrained bodies and, let’s face it… no longer in our first youth. In the initial plan, we thought there wouldn’t be too much elevation gain following the Kali Gandaki, but checking the map, we realize there might be significant elevation changes between Sauru and Sirkung. So we plan:
· Tomorrow: visit Marpha (2670m) and Chimang (2744m) · April 3: bus from Chhairo (2700m) to Kalopani (2530m) and continue on foot to Ghasa (2010m) · April 4: Ghasa/Pairataplo (1940m) · April 5: Pairatapla/Gadpar (1580m) · April 6: Gadpar/Narchyang (1510m) · April 7: Narchyang/Tatopani (1190m) · April 8: return to Pokhara.
Normally, it’s all downhill…
April 2, a rest day then… We set off in the morning to explore Marpha. We have to take a temporary bridge because the suspension bridge is closed due to road construction. We join the road and arrive in Marpha, a village famous for its apple orchards, brandy, cider, and apple juice production. This village is magnificent with its stone houses and monastery clinging to the hillside. The road construction spared it. There are people, but very few Western tourists.
We have lunch in Marpha and go back through Chhairo to take the path to Chimang. We cross a fragrant pine forest and find the rocky path; the landscape is splendid. We walk quietly, passing peaceful buffaloes and cows, and arrive at the foot of a stone staircase… 275 steps (which we counted on the way back) leading us to the village of Chimang. Chimang is an isolated Newari village that seems a bit desolate. Despite the slopes, there are crops on every little bit of land. Thankfully, we changed our initial program because there’s no lodge in this village, contrary to what we saw on a map… We wander through the village, which seems very deserted, have coffee in a house from another world, and then head back to Chhairo.
A rest day? = 5 hours of walking!!
Dinner and village ceremony. From what we understand, this ceremony is in honor of the Dalai Lama. Men, women, and children in traditional costumes gather twice a month; they dance, make, and offer small sweet cakes with Tibetan tea (made from tea, yak butter—often rancid—water, and salt). Surprising for first-timers…
Around 10 PM, we leave the ceremony; tomorrow morning, we need to be on the roadside by 7 AM to catch the bus to Kalopani…
This village of Chhairo is very pleasant and welcoming, no tourists, just two motorcyclists who arrived in the evening, one of whom participated in the ceremony and discreetly poured his Tibetan tea outside.
Lodge: "Norsang Tibetan Guesthouse and Restaurant". Total bill for 2 nights, 2 dinners, 2 breakfasts, and drinks = 8000 NPR.
April 3: bus from Chhairo to Kalopani, about 1.5 hours for the 20 km (200 NPR per person). We descend on the right bank of the Kali Gandaki. We find the red and white markings to resume the trek toward Ghasa. We’re in a fragrant pine forest, the Dhaulagiri on one side and the Annapurnas on the other, magnificent, and the path is pleasant and easy. We get a bit lost in this forest, always looking for the markings. Near Lete, two trekkers pass us, and we meet them again a little further on with two very young children, to whom we give the 2 hard-boiled eggs I didn’t eat this morning. They accepted them without hesitation.
We arrive in a village and ask for directions to Ghasa. The young girls point the way. But we come across a forest being logged, trees cut in all directions. We turn back and ask for confirmation. They confirm… But the two young girls catch up with us and clear the way. We have to step over, go around, and cross the felled trees, with no indication at all. Through this pick-up sticks of felled trees, the girls lead us to the top of a stone staircase, indicating that was the path. It’s the only place where we saw rhododendrons in bloom.
We descend the staircase. At the bottom, to the left, there’s a bridge to go toward Choyo, and to the right, a path to Ghasa. We take the right path and join the road. We should normally find the red and white markings, but we don’t… So we continue on the western bank road of the Kali Gandaki.
A little before the village of Misi, we see fumaroles on the opposite bank that seem to come from the ground. We don’t understand. We stopped to eat in the village of Misi (noodle soup = 600 NPR), but it’s hard to communicate with the elderly people running the guesthouse.
We continued on the road, not finding the marked path parallel to the road. Landslides, both on the left and right banks, seem to have taken over the marked routes. It’s a place where the Kali Gandaki gorge narrows, and on the opposite bank, the mountain smokes more and more, and we now hear the crackling of fire. Across from us, the mountain is burning… Our initial plan had us passing on that burning bank right now…
We arrive in Ghasa at 3:30 PM, a 6.5-hour stage but with a 1-hour stop at noon. We’re at the "Florida Guesthouse and Restaurant." From our room, we see the mountain smoking on the other side of the river, and at night, we see the flames. In this village, posters show Himalayan eagles and vultures that seem to be protected species. Indeed, we saw (and heard) 3 eagles circling today.
April 4 – Today, heading to Pairothapla or Kopchepani depending on our feet, accommodation options, and simply our desires.
No more smoke on the mountain this morning. It’s chilly, 7:45 AM, the sky is clear, just a smell of smoke outside.
Price of the lodge = 1000 NPR for the night + 3580 NPR for meals.
We cross Ghasa, which stretches over more than a kilometer. We have a drink at the last guesthouse in the village, and the didi, when she learns our destination, tells us to be careful because the villages we’re going to aren’t safe. Should we distribute our rupees in different pockets? Nah, we kept going.
At the exit of Ghasa, we find the red and white markings and take the suspension bridge to cross the boiling waters of the Kali Gandaki. The passage is impressive because the river is tumultuous. Lots of climbs and even more descents. We’re back on the eastern bank. It’s hot! On the narrow path, we meet a group of buffaloes. Who has the right of way? We decide to stick as close as possible to the rock wall and move forward calmly. The buffaloes look at us, chewing placidly, with no intention of jumping on us. Phew!
After a 5-hour stage (including stops), we arrive in Pairothapla, with hot feet and firm thighs, and decide we won’t go any further. It’s a good thing because there’s a lodge, the most basic so far, but with a great welcome. We have a meal and a short nap. The buffaloes we met on the way belong to this house. They come to drink at the fountain by the path.
Our host, very pleasant, doesn’t know what to do to please us and is very attentive. He wants to chat. He has two children, a 4-year-old girl and a 7-year-old boy. Where do they go to school? Do they go? He tells us that the fires in the mountain are caused by people, but for what reason? We won’t find out, but it’s illegal. From here, we can still see smoke rising in the distance. The wife is a bit less friendly. Corn kernels dry on a woven straw mat on the ground, and the mom sorts them.
From where we are, we overlook the valley and see the road under construction winding along the mountainside on the other bank.
Dinner on the terrace of the house overlooking the path, windbreaker and fleece on: dal bhat chicken for me and chicken curry for my husband: "organic" products, at least local production. There are small vegetable gardens everywhere with all sorts of vegetables.
April 5 – While we’re having breakfast on the terrace of our lodge, 5 porters, straps on their foreheads, heavily loaded, pass by on the path. A few minutes later, a group of 9 people appears. It must be said that since the beginning of our journey, we’ve met very few hikers. Two backpackers in Chhairo, the two hikers near Lete, two female hikers passed us before Pairothapla, a solo female hiker passed us…
The lodge in Pairothapla is called "Bimala Lodge & Thakali Kitchen" – Price for night + 4 meals + 2 breakfasts = 3000 NPR.
The descent toward the Kali Gandaki involves climbs whose steps we didn’t count. Clearly, the landslides on the mountain cause changes to the official ACAP trek marked in red and white, and the marking updates can’t keep up with the pace of these landslides. It’s almost always by chance that we find the markings. Fortunately, we can follow the power line that guides us somewhat.
Drink stop in Kopchepani, the legs are fine, but the feet don’t like being tightly enclosed. A group of trekkers with porters passes on the path. We met buffaloes that we kindly let pass; the path was wide enough, but it was a staircase going up, and we didn’t want to take any risks.
Across, a view of the magnificent Rupse Waterfall on the other bank of the Kali Gandaki, at the bottom, lots of vehicles and people.
Arrival in Gadpar after crossing a rather unwelcoming small village and cultivated gardens between dry stone walls, each better built than the last.
First lodge spotted, first lodge adopted to answer the call of our feet, and a very warm welcome from the owner. Since we hadn’t eaten at noon, we had Tibetan bread/jam. 6-hour stage including 1 hour of stops. Night + dinner + breakfast + drinks = 5060 NPR
April 6 – Today, heading to Narchyang.
For several days, we’ve seen banana trees with their bunches of fruit and even a prickly pear with large fruits ripening.
This stage is quite peaceful and pleasant. We take a suspension bridge to cross a tributary of the Kali Gandaki. While we’re resting for a moment before crossing the bridge, a couple of porters, a man and a woman, arrive and start across the bridge with their wood load in a basket held by a strap on their forehead, making them bend. We set off too… lighter than them.
On the other side of the bridge… a stone staircase, and it climbs steeply. The porter couple didn’t take this staircase; they went right on the path.
At the top of the staircase, we arrive in Narchyang after a 4-hour stage. A magnificent waterfall overlooks the village. We get lost in this fairly large village looking for a lodge. After wandering around for a while, we ask for directions, and an 84-year-old man takes us through the whole village and accompanies us to a very nice lodge run by a woman.
We chat with our hostess, who asks where we’re from and where we’re going. We explain that we want to reach Tatopani the next day and then return to Pokhara. She tells us there are 4x4s going directly to Pokhara and that it would probably be easier than taking a bus that might be full in Tatopani. After a quick consultation, we decide to return to Pokhara the next day by 4x4. She finds us a 4x4 with 2 seats left, departure at 8 AM – 5 hours on the road and 1500 NPR per person. A charming didi who does everything to be pleasant and helpful.
Narchyang community lodge = night + snacks + dinner + breakfast = 3000 NPR.
There you go, our trek ends tomorrow. Many necessary changes and adaptations to our initial trek, but no regrets, it was superb and a great experience that, for my part, I won’t be able to repeat. Always this encounter with the endearing, welcoming, curious, and very kind Nepali people. It was now or never, and we did it!
* * *
In conclusion, 3 full weeks in Nepal is a duration that allows visiting Kathmandu, Patan, and Bhaktapur, enjoying the various sites, and soaking in the atmosphere and urban Nepali life.
The trek, even revised and corrected, allowed us to get close to the impressive Annapurna and Dhaulagiri peaks. One or two acclimatization days might be necessary to get the body in tune with this magical and extraordinary land.
Hi there,
My partner and I are heading to Nepal for 15 days in March—she’s a schoolteacher. We’ll be trekking to Everest Base Camp and then doing the loop via the Gokyo Lakes.
We’d love to set up a fundraiser to donate to a school in Namche, along with visiting the school. It’s something that really matters to us. But it’s been tough to get in touch with a school—any ideas on how to go about this? Thanks!
My partner and I are heading to Nepal for 15 days in March—she’s a schoolteacher. We’ll be trekking to Everest Base Camp and then doing the loop via the Gokyo Lakes.
We’d love to set up a fundraiser to donate to a school in Namche, along with visiting the school. It’s something that really matters to us. But it’s been tough to get in touch with a school—any ideas on how to go about this? Thanks!
Hello my fellow globetrotters, could anyone tell me how to find the French colonial cemetery in Pondicherry? It seems tricky to locate.
Thanks so much for your help! Take care, pace yourselves, and travel far.
Cheers, Régine
Thanks so much for your help! Take care, pace yourselves, and travel far.
Cheers, Régine
I'm looking for a small, not-too-touristy restaurant in Fort Kochi. Do you know one not too far from Jacob Road?
Thanks
Hi there,
My wife and I are getting ready for this tour from March 27 to April 8.
I’d love to know if anyone’s traveled with Salaun Holidays before? How many people are usually in a group? How much cash should we bring?
We’re also unsure about what clothes to pack..... plus sheets and pillowcases?
And if you’ve got any tips to avoid being too bothered by beggars and touts.
Any advice you’ve got would be really helpful.
Thanks in advance!
Hi there,
I’d like to travel to Rajasthan and the Ganges Valley—it’s my first time going on a long-haul trip, and I’m thinking of booking with BTtours from Belgium (or Salaün in France). Has anyone here traveled with this agency before and can share their experience? I was planning to go around November, but some people tell me it might still be pretty cold (around 8°C)—is that true?
Also, what’s the best way to get money there? Can you enter India with cash on you?
Thanks for your help!
Also, what’s the best way to get money there? Can you enter India with cash on you?
Thanks for your help!
hi everyone,
I’m planning a trip to Northern India (Rajasthan, Ganges Valley with Varanasi (Benares)).
My travel agency is offering me two tour operators: Asia with the "Saris and Saddhus" circuit, and Salaun with the "Northern India and the Ganges Valley" circuit. I’ve already traveled to Sri Lanka and Southern India with Asia. The trips went really well.
I don’t know Salaun Holidays. Their circuit seems more comprehensive, with a day of relaxation (16 days on site). Travel with Air France.
Has any member of this forum done the "Northern India and the Ganges Valley" circuit with Salaun? Can I get your feedback on the tour operator Salaun Holidays?
Thanks so much
I’m planning a trip to Northern India (Rajasthan, Ganges Valley with Varanasi (Benares)).
My travel agency is offering me two tour operators: Asia with the "Saris and Saddhus" circuit, and Salaun with the "Northern India and the Ganges Valley" circuit. I’ve already traveled to Sri Lanka and Southern India with Asia. The trips went really well.
I don’t know Salaun Holidays. Their circuit seems more comprehensive, with a day of relaxation (16 days on site). Travel with Air France.
Has any member of this forum done the "Northern India and the Ganges Valley" circuit with Salaun? Can I get your feedback on the tour operator Salaun Holidays?
Thanks so much
Hi there.
We’re heading to India at the end of December for a month.
I planned an itinerary: Delhi, Nawalgarh, Sikar, Jodhpur, Udaipur, Chittaurgarh, Bundi, Jaipur, Bharatpur, and back to Delhi.
Our driver told us it’s not possible because there are no roads.
He’s suggesting the usual tourist circuit, which we don’t want to do.
What do you think of my route?
Any tips?
Thanks, community!
Hello,
We’re a group of 4 looking for a driver and car for our stay in Kerala from November 22 to December 12, 2025. We’ve already planned an itinerary starting from Cochin.
We’ve traveled with a driver before during our trip to Rajasthan.
Thanks for your replies!
Yves
Hi everyone,
we’re heading to Tamil Nadu and Kerala at the start of the year for 30 days. We did Rajasthan 12 years ago, but things change fast.
I’ve read that to get a SIM card, you have to buy it at a shop and then go to the operator to get a number; you’d also need an Indian mobile number. Has anyone here had recent experience with this?
For buses and trains, do you need to book them well in advance?
Any tips are welcome—thanks in advance!
Happy holidays to all,
Philippe
Hi everyone! 🙂
My partner (who’s a teacher—hence the summer holidays) and I are heading to Eastern India for 23 days in July. This is my 5th trip to India, but her first.
We fly into Delhi on July 7th and leave from Delhi on the 23rd (since our flight to Kolkata arrived late at night, and I wanted to show Agra and Varanasi to my partner).
We love getting off the beaten track and meeting people, so we’ll mostly be taking the train.
Here’s what we’re planning:
- **DELHI**: 1 night on the way (short because the plane is supposed to land at 01:55), then we take the train at 13:00 - **GWALIOR**: 3 nights, including a day trip to **AGRA** by train to see the Taj Mahal and the Red Fort (I find Agra too touristy to stay overnight). Otherwise, in Gwalior, the Fort, the temples, the Man Mandir Palace, and the Jai Vilas Palace if we have time. - **ORCHHA**: 2 nights... *maybe skip this to spend more time in VARANASI?* - **VARANASI**: overnight train + 3 nights, the Ghats, temples... maybe a day trip to **SARNATH**. - **KOLKATA**: overnight train + 3 nights. Maybe a countryside excursion to the ashram in Channa. *- Here we’re hesitating over 2 nights: either 2 nights in **SHANTINIKETAN** with a visit to **CHANNA** on the way, or a 2-day excursion to the **SUNDARBAN** nature park. But is it worth it in July during the monsoon?* - **PURI**: overnight train + 4 nights. *We’re planning to do everything from Puri, as it seems nicer than staying in BHUBANESWAR. What do you think?* Visit **KONARK** and **CHILIKA LAKE**. *Is it worth visiting Chilika Lake this season? Another question: can you swim in Puri, or is it too dangerous (waves)?* - Train to **BHUBANESWAR**, then a flight from BHUBANESWAR to **DELHI**, - 2 nights in **DELHI**, visiting Jama Masjid, and *either Humayun’s Tomb, Safdarjung’s Tomb, or Qutb Minar.*
Back to Paris. Total: 23 nights.
What do you think of these choices? What about the options we’re still unsure about *(in bold/italics)*? Thanks so much! 🙂
We fly into Delhi on July 7th and leave from Delhi on the 23rd (since our flight to Kolkata arrived late at night, and I wanted to show Agra and Varanasi to my partner).
We love getting off the beaten track and meeting people, so we’ll mostly be taking the train.
Here’s what we’re planning:
- **DELHI**: 1 night on the way (short because the plane is supposed to land at 01:55), then we take the train at 13:00 - **GWALIOR**: 3 nights, including a day trip to **AGRA** by train to see the Taj Mahal and the Red Fort (I find Agra too touristy to stay overnight). Otherwise, in Gwalior, the Fort, the temples, the Man Mandir Palace, and the Jai Vilas Palace if we have time. - **ORCHHA**: 2 nights... *maybe skip this to spend more time in VARANASI?* - **VARANASI**: overnight train + 3 nights, the Ghats, temples... maybe a day trip to **SARNATH**. - **KOLKATA**: overnight train + 3 nights. Maybe a countryside excursion to the ashram in Channa. *- Here we’re hesitating over 2 nights: either 2 nights in **SHANTINIKETAN** with a visit to **CHANNA** on the way, or a 2-day excursion to the **SUNDARBAN** nature park. But is it worth it in July during the monsoon?* - **PURI**: overnight train + 4 nights. *We’re planning to do everything from Puri, as it seems nicer than staying in BHUBANESWAR. What do you think?* Visit **KONARK** and **CHILIKA LAKE**. *Is it worth visiting Chilika Lake this season? Another question: can you swim in Puri, or is it too dangerous (waves)?* - Train to **BHUBANESWAR**, then a flight from BHUBANESWAR to **DELHI**, - 2 nights in **DELHI**, visiting Jama Masjid, and *either Humayun’s Tomb, Safdarjung’s Tomb, or Qutb Minar.*
Back to Paris. Total: 23 nights.
What do you think of these choices? What about the options we’re still unsure about *(in bold/italics)*? Thanks so much! 🙂