Before reaching our island—or Yell, Unst, or the main island of Mainland—we spend a few hours in Lerwick to do laundry and stock up on groceries for a few days. We take a quick detour to Brae to visit Frankie’s and fill our stomachs with fish and chips so hearty I have to undo the button on my pants.
We send updates, read about the latest arrivals, and head back to the ferry dock.
Lerwick has a bit of an Edinburgh vibe—grey stones, slate roofs, cobbled alleys—and under the leaden sky, I inexplicably feel like I’m in *Wuthering Heights*.
Thirty minutes on a small ferry later, we finally set down our bags. We’re in Whalsay.
And surprise—the fiber internet is installed in our cottage.
We’re happy and unhappy about it. A paradox.
The Shetlands had been cut off from the world two years ago after the undersea cables broke, but since Enea’s place had no internet anyway, it didn’t change much for us. For the locals, though, it was a whole different story.
Jules (one of my fourteen grandchildren) insists AI is the future. ChatGPT already helps him with homework, and his teacher didn’t even notice!!! He claims AI will save him from having to learn *anything* because all you have to do is ask.
Before leaving, he hands me his phone and says:
"Ask whatever you want."
I asked it to tell me about the Shetland Islands. In ten seconds, I had a travel guide.
"See? It’s cool, right! Plus, you can talk about anything—it’s like a virtual buddy."
"Isn’t it boring not to think for yourself? And doesn’t it isolate you? Don’t you think?"
Will AI replace forums and travel guides?
In the Shetlands—a vast archipelago of about a hundred islands, only sixteen of which are inhabited—you really feel like you’re at the edge of the world.
Enea, the owner, has been renting us this little cottage for four years. She’s thinking of selling; we’re thinking of buying. Fully aware of our age and the years slipping away like soap down a slope, we tell ourselves the grandkids could come here to live out their romances. Out on the moor, they could love each other in peace.
Will they come this far? That’s the big question. Having internet installed will surely be a draw for this younger generation.
Back to our sheep.
In the Shetlands, it’s obvious—sheep and little ponies everywhere.
Right in front of our place, a small black pony with a wild mane trots up to greet us, then slams on the brakes like Jolly Jumper when it realizes it doesn’t know us. It approaches my hand cautiously and delicately takes the carrot piece. Then it trots back to its friends. These stocky little ponies always have hair in their eyes, like hippies without the headband. They don’t scare me like horses do—those yellow teeth terrify me so much I’d never dare offer them even an apple.
So, our cottage.
It’s all white with teal window frames, giving it a cheerful look. It’s topped with a slate roof.
There are two rooms. A main room, six strides by ten, with a stove we use for heating and cooking.
We go through about fifteen peat bricks a day. My partner sometimes goes with Lyle to cut peat. They use a *tushktar*, a traditional tool, and apparently, it’s exhausting. When we arrive, there’s already a mountain of ready-cut bricks. Good.
At the back of the main room, there’s a sort of alcove with a big bed. Next to it, a wash area and a toilet.
That’s it. Nothing more.
Is heating with peat ecological?
No fences here—the sheep roam free and never let you get close.
I move slowly and gently, but *whoosh!* If one gets spooked, it bolts and takes all the others with it. Panurge is highly responsible.
On windy days—and it’s *very* windy *very* often—the salty sea spray dampens your face.
There are no trees, just a few bushes, and the wind races and leaps across the moor, whistling as it goes.
The ocean is right at our feet. My partner is beside me, and I can’t resist giving him a kiss—I love the salty taste on his chapped lips.
Steve always says: "What are you even going to do up there? It’s so far, and there’s nothing."
That’s exactly why we go.
Sheep, ponies, seals, orcas hunting the seals, gannets, and puffins that birdwatchers come to observe with binoculars, cliffs, beaches, trails, and locals as welcoming as those in our Morvan. Many speak Shetlandic—even more incomprehensible than Gaelic, and that’s saying something.
The days stretch long in spring at this latitude, offering cozy evenings under a rough but warm blanket.
This deep peace that fills me here sometimes leaves me dizzy, as if for a moment I’d lived in another dimension.
What more could you ask for?