Hello,
We’re arriving in Tana, the capital, by plane on the morning of May 22nd after an overnight flight.
Does any forum member know this Malagasy driver-guide: Haja Rasolondraibe?
The itinerary below might change or evolve—23 days might not be enough.
We’ll visit the central region (the highlands: Antsirabe, Atoetra and a Zafimaniry village, Lake Andrianina) and the unmissable west (Kirindy, the Avenue of the Baobabs, the Tsingy de Bamaraha, and a fishing village). Then back to Tana.
After that, we’ll head east of Tana to Ambohimanga, Andasibe, near Tamatave, Ankanin'ny, Mahambo, and Île Sainte-Marie if time allows. Not sure yet. Then back to Tana.
This driver-guide with a 4x4 charges 70 € per day, including food and accommodation. Excluding fuel.
If any members can recommend other driver-guides with a 4x4 and more reliable vehicles in good condition (since we don’t want to travel at night), I’d be interested.
Thanks in advance.
evad.tebo
I’m heading to the Seychelles in March and I’d like to know how far in advance it’s best to book the boat transfers from Mahé to Praslin round-trip.
Should I also book the transfers between Praslin and La Digue in advance, or can I just grab them on the day?
Oh, the good news—the site is back up after such a long closure. I think many of us were really missing it, though some have moved on to other forums like Routard.
Hopefully, activity will pick up little by little. Travel habits have probably changed post-Covid, and some regulars won’t be coming back for all sorts of reasons.
But for the rest of us, the forum is here for travel journals and pre-trip questions. Anyway…
Back to the main point: my last trip to Madagascar was a while ago now—about a year—on the High Plateaus during the austral winter. It was really chilly, and to be honest, my feelings were mixed between the joy of returning to Madagascar and the sadness of seeing the state of the country. The infrastructure is crumbling, and the population is sinking into poverty at unprecedented levels. The country’s closure likely had immeasurable consequences, compounded by destructive cyclones. Even secondary cities have seen large numbers of rural people arriving in search of work, while some rural areas barely allow survival. I’ve never felt such despair over the situation in 20 years.
From Tana to Fianar, it was nothing but heartbreaking observations. Probably made worse by the drizzle and cold typical of that season in the region.
In a few weeks, I’m planning to return to the High Plateaus and also Sainte Marie. On that note, a few questions: has anyone stayed at Samaria Cosy Lodge, and what did you think of it?
On Île aux Nattes, which hotel would you recommend for a few peaceful days, ideally on the coast best suited for snorkeling?
Hi, I'd like to know if there's a bush taxi from TAMATAVE TO NOSY-BE HELL VILLE (an island), and if so, which company should I take?
Thanks in advance for your answers ;)
Hi,
We're planning to visit Mauritius in April. We'd like to do some beginner-level hikes but we're also wondering if we'll be able to enjoy the beach or if the water will be too cold.
Thanks for your replies
Hi there,
We’re rediscovering the island in early April, 20 years later, with our three teenage kids.
We’re looking for a nice place to stay that’s budget-friendly—ideally with a pool, very close to the beach, and three bedrooms since our oldest will be studying for her baccalaureate exams and might stay at the residence from time to time.
Oh, and just to mention... unfortunately, a hotel for five is way out of our budget.
Thanks for your recommendations, and see you Sunday! Family0306
Hello, we’re a couple over 70 and will be spending about six weeks in Réunion next January/February, staying first in Saint-Leu and then in Saint-Pierre, each time in independent accommodations. We’ll have a car and enjoy hiking, though nothing too strenuous. Otherwise, we live quietly—cooking our own meals and exploring at a relaxed pace. Our goal is simply to escape the harshest part of the European winter in good conditions. Can anyone share some great tips, easy hikes, must-see spots, or surprising activities? In return, we’d be happy to share insights about Valais in Switzerland—a sunny but chilly winter destination! Best, Bernard.
I’m looking for information about the island of Madagascar and Nosy Be.
I’d like to spend 10 days there in February.
Could you recommend some hotels and must-see places? Is it better to rent a car or a motorbike?
What budget should I plan for?
We’ll be a group of 4 people.
Hi everyone, I’d like to know if it’s possible to travel only by taxi in Madagascar? ...
My friend and I are going. Our trip starts in Antananarivo and goes to Antalaha. We’ll be heading up the east coast.
Are taxi stations available in every city? Do we need to book in advance?
Or would you recommend renting a car locally instead? ...
We really need some help and hope you can give us advice soon ...
Hi there,
For my layover in Mauritius on the way to Rodrigues, I need to collect my luggage and go through Corsair checks again since they don’t have a codeshare with Air Mauritius.
How much time should I allow?
I’d love to hear from a traveler who’s been through this.
Have a great day!
We're looking for transportation options for Mauritius for 15 days and for 6 people.
Is there a taxi that can take us (6 people plus luggage) from the airport to Bain Boeuf?
(Where can we find a 9-seater rental car?)
After that, we'd like to rent a car for 6 people for the rest of the stay. For the return trip, we'd need the same taxi to take us back to the airport.
Thanks for the info!
Some impressions and info after two weeks in Grande Comore and Anjouan. Trip mid-2024.
First and foremost, the Comorians are absolutely lovely. I don’t usually like generalizing, but I honestly don’t know what else to say beyond what struck me most: kindness everywhere, great friendliness, curiosity—basically, every interaction was super pleasant, whether at the hotel, in the street, or in shops.
On the less positive side (because it needs to be mentioned), I was also struck by the overwhelming amount of waste along the coastline (and elsewhere, especially roadsides and riverbanks) in pretty shocking quantities. Of course, it improves once you get away from populated areas, but it was still a bit of a shock.
That said, underwater—even at sites where the shore was littered with plastic—the corals are stunning, snorkeling is fantastic, the seabeds are truly beautiful, and there’s a great diversity of fish.
The islands and landscapes are gorgeous, especially Anjouan’s interior and highlands. I can’t say much about Mohéli since I didn’t go, but I only heard glowing reviews.
In Moroni and Mutsamudu, the medinas are really charming, far from the tourist crowds of Stone Town, for example. Winding alleys, old buildings, stairs, and twists and turns—I spent hours just wandering and getting lost. Really nice.
In Moroni, I stayed at the Retaj. It was good, with great service, an evening buffet, and a pretty extensive menu. There’s a beautiful ocean view and a small volcanic beach at the end of the grounds. I snorkeled there, and it’s lovely (though, being close to the city, there were bags and wrappers on the rocks). Around 100 € per night if I remember correctly—not the cheapest, but not the most expensive either (prices in the Comoros are generally quite high).
I also stayed at the Jardin de la Paix, closer to the city center. Also very good. The rooms were spotless. Fewer meal options, mostly chalkboard specials, and sometimes very long waits. On the plus side, there’s a large tree-filled inner courtyard, but no ocean view or small beach. From memory, it was cheaper, but I’m not 100% sure.
Among the few travelers and tourists, many were heading to Itsandra Beach Hotel at the entrance to the city when coming from the airport. It’s in a much higher price range. I only went there for the hotel’s beach, Petite Itsandra, because the snorkeling is amazing.
In Anjouan, I only stayed at the Hôtel des Îles in Mutsamudu. The owner is very welcoming and super nice. There’s a lovely terrace with an ocean view, where you can watch the boats coming and going in the morning and evening. Peaceful and really pretty. You can also see the huge fruit bats up close since some like to hang out in the tree across from the terrace. It’s easy to walk to the medina, the coast, or even the market and port—everything’s close by.
For meals, I mostly ate at hotels, but also tried some evening street food stands. In hotels or restaurants, expect to pay around 10 to 15 €. Oh, and one thing: in the evenings when the fishermen return to Moroni, there’s *tons* of tuna. So it’s on the menu pretty much everywhere. But either because of the type of tuna or the preparation, the tuna steaks are dry and honestly not great. Nowhere I tried was an exception. The only non-hotel restaurant I remember is New Select, in the courtyard out back where you could order skewers of different kinds while religious chants played in a relaxed but respectful atmosphere. You could also order a shisha. Really nice and not too expensive.
As for activities, like I said, I mostly walked around the cities—markets, medinas, ports, and the seafront. Chatted with people I met along the way. Did some snorkeling, especially at Itsandra Beach Hotel, but didn’t get the chance to go to Itsandra Beach (which is public). Did a bit of hiking in the countryside, especially in Anjouan—just wandering random paths, so I can’t really give much detail on that.
I can’t say anything about climbing Mount Karthala, the Prophet’s Hole, etc. I would’ve liked to spend some time in Domoni (Anjouan), but didn’t get the chance.
A few roads have been recently redone and are in great condition, but a lot are still in really bad shape, which makes travel times longer. The inland roads often offer stunning views of dramatic landscapes with the ocean and sometimes lagoons in the background.
To get from one island to another, you can take a plane or a boat. Local airlines aren’t very reassuring—technical issues are common. It’s also possible to arrange flights with Precision Air (from Tanzania). From experience, it’s better. I didn’t take the boat, but I’m considering it for next time.
In short, these are islands to discover where tourism is still in its early stages. Great encounters and a beautiful experience
Hi everyone,
After finishing the season (gîte on the Compostela trail), it’s our turn to hike! We’re heading to Réunion for 6 weeks, then Mauritius, and maybe Rodrigues. We leave on November 5th.
What are the must-do hikes, starting with easy ones to get our legs back in shape (yep, 7 months of inactivity!) and then a bit more challenging, but most importantly, no risk of vertigo. Sorry, that’s just how it is—can’t do it 😅.
As for gîtes, should we book a few days in advance, or do we need to plan now?
And what about transport? Should we rent a vehicle instead?
We’d love any tips you have. Thanks!
Philippe and Corinne
