Why not the Cape Town region this time, but there was no way we’d return to this part of the world without going on a safari. Mountain Zebra or the Karoo seem more about landscapes than animals, and Addo doesn’t excite me much either... So it’ll be Kruger.
Flight prices, schedules, and durations led us to a Paris-Cape Town trip, returning from Johannesburg to Paris with British Airways, so via Heathrow.
Now we just have to figure out how to fit in a lot of things without driving too many kilometers or changing accommodations every day, at least in the Cape Town region. Here’s what we ended up with:
Arrival in Cape Town on Saturday, October 10 at 11 AM
2 nights in Hermanus
1 night in Franschhoek
2 nights in Mountceder in the Cederberg
3 nights in Hout Bay
Sunday: transition day—flight to Johannesburg, drive toward Kruger, night in Lydenburg.
Kruger: 1 night in Letaba, 2 in Satara, 1 in Lower Sabie.
Last night in Mbombela (formerly Nelspruit) before heading back to the airport for an evening return flight.
Friday, October 9
Pretty stressful departure.
First, I woke up in the middle of the night, convinced I’d swapped my first and last names during check-in 🤪... Couldn’t fall back asleep, even though I knew British Airways wouldn’t answer before 9 AM.
Well, for them, everything was fine... but then they started talking about ETA... an ETA for England 😮? ?? Yes, it’s recent. Apparently, you don’t need one for an air-to-air transit... but you never know, it’s better to have it just in case. No one could clearly tell me it wasn’t necessary. In the end, we didn’t get it... and we didn’t need it.
But then, our flight ended up leaving Paris 45 minutes late (10 minutes due to a schedule change and 35 minutes of actual delay), so our 2-hour layover shrank to 1 hour and 15 minutes. That should be enough, right? The board showed our flight at Gate B: great, it’s right next door! But at Gate B, three employees were just there to tell everyone who showed up that security had to be done at Gate A... and off we went running through the corridors, endless escalators going up and down, a little shuttle ride, security at Gate A (“You’re going to be cutting it close!” Oh really? 😠), then pretty much the same route back to end up just a few dozen meters from our starting point! 😠
Boarding was already well underway, and after all that running, we were hot and thirsty, but phew! We made it onto the plane!
Saturday, October 10 On the other hand, nothing to complain about on this London-Cape Town flight—it arrived early!
I booked a (small) Suzuki S-Presso because it seemed to have a higher ground clearance than its competitors. Unfortunately, we ended up with a Tata Tiago (yes, it exists), which is lower (and also smaller and with an even more sluggish engine... yes, we were able to compare because in Johannesburg, we *did* get an S-Presso). Somehow, we managed to fit everything in the trunk (“Above all, don’t leave anything visible!”), and off we went to our first accommodation in Hermanus, under glorious sunshine.
Nikki welcomed us warmly, explained what there was to see in the area, and advised us to book a restaurant for that evening.
After dropping off our bags, we headed to the “cliff path,” just 3 minutes from our lodging. This part of the coast is famous for southern right whales from June to November. Let’s cut to the chase: there *are* whales, but they’re very far away and seem to be sleeping 😕. At best, we saw (photos taken at 600mm): A few ripples or a faint spout,
a bit of tail...
...or head.
Too bad—the owner of our next accommodation told us she’d seen around thirty whales up close here in early September.
Without whales, the dassies (or rock hyraxes) are everywhere... and fun to watch.
The other local star (when there are no whales 😏)
