We’ll be in Srinagar for 4 days in mid-May 2026 during our backpacking trip as a couple. Do you have any nice places to recommend, and what about the houseboats on Dal Lake? Should we spend all our nights there, or just one night for practicality when getting around?
Thanks,
Rozenn
South Asia (Indian subcontinent) · Inde
Bangladesh, Bhoutan, Inde, Maldives, Népal et Sri Lanka.
Showing 31–60 of 20,407 discussions.

THE REAL SRINAGAR BEHIND ITS BAD REPUTATION
Srinagar is a destination that’s hardly popular with tourists. Because of the ongoing war between India and Pakistan, we often hear about soldiers being killed in Srinagar.
I’d also heard that tourists weren’t welcome, but that wasn’t my experience at all.
I went there without listening to all the warnings people kept shouting in my ear, and I discovered a charming city where locals constantly approach you to have tea or chat. I was never alone during my 3 days there—I was always being approached or invited into someone’s home.
I’m creating this post to break the stereotypes about this incredible city and to share what I experienced during one of my best trips in India.
(Update July 2019): I just noticed that Srinagar is marked as a red zone (strongly discouraged) on the French Ministry of Foreign Affairs’ travel advisory map. That doesn’t change the fact that my best memories were in Srinagar and that nothing at all happened while I was there. However, some might not be as lucky as I was. Nothing’s stopping you from going, and I’m tempted to recommend it, but be aware that you’re entering an uncertain area. Safe travels!
Arriving in Srinagar When I arrived, I hurried to find a mechanic to weld the front fender that was scraping my wheel. I went from garage to garage, each one sending me to another and then another… It was pretty hard to find someone who could weld that fender since the screw thread was stripped.
I kept searching until I came across this scrap dealer cutting metal with a hammer:

The man in the checkered shirt told me he could fix my bike, but I had to go with him to his place. So we went together, and I was invited to have tea with his family. He introduced me to everyone, and they seemed really happy to meet a tourist. They kept smiling at me and offering me local sweets. I have to admit, I was a little embarrassed—all I wanted was to get my bike fixed!

The scrap dealer’s nephew was very interested in my camera. I showed him how to use it and let him play around with it, which resulted in some great shots while they were fixing my bike—something I only found out later.


What really struck me were the cables connected to the battery he used for welding. They were just stripped, laid on top of each other, and suspended. When he needed to pass by, he’d lift a wire with his hand, walk under it, and put it back down. I wondered how he’d survived this long!
On top of that, here in India, all the welders in small garages weld with sunglasses, and I’m really not sure how effective those are.


Once the bike was fixed, I asked him how much I owed him. Very generously, he told me to decide for myself. I gave him a little more than I usually do for a weld. This family was incredibly kind—I’d just arrived, and I was already invited to eat with them.
Exploring the City The whole city is crisscrossed by a network of streams where locals transport goods by boat, creating some truly magical moments:



Following these streams, I reached the city center, where I met locals who were surprised to see me but thrilled to get to know me. A really rich social experience!




The Local Market A local market is always open near the mosque I mentioned earlier—it’s a must-visit! The market isn’t big, but it’s a social and cultural experience you shouldn’t miss.



Taking the Road Across the Lake Across from Nishat Bagh Park, there’s a road that crosses Dal Lake, which is full of lotuses. The path is tough to take by bike—I know from experience—but what you’ll see is worth the detour!


Hello my fellow globetrotters, could anyone tell me how to find the French colonial cemetery in Pondicherry? It seems tricky to locate.
Thanks so much for your help! Take care, pace yourselves, and travel far.
Cheers, Régine
Thanks so much for your help! Take care, pace yourselves, and travel far.
Cheers, Régine
I'm looking for a small, not-too-touristy restaurant in Fort Kochi. Do you know one not too far from Jacob Road?
Thanks
Hi there,
My wife and I are getting ready for this tour from March 27 to April 8.
I’d love to know if anyone’s traveled with Salaun Holidays before? How many people are usually in a group? How much cash should we bring?
We’re also unsure about what clothes to pack..... plus sheets and pillowcases?
And if you’ve got any tips to avoid being too bothered by beggars and touts.
Any advice you’ve got would be really helpful.
Thanks in advance!
Hi there,
I’d like to travel to Rajasthan and the Ganges Valley—it’s my first time going on a long-haul trip, and I’m thinking of booking with BTtours from Belgium (or Salaün in France). Has anyone here traveled with this agency before and can share their experience? I was planning to go around November, but some people tell me it might still be pretty cold (around 8°C)—is that true?
Also, what’s the best way to get money there? Can you enter India with cash on you?
Thanks for your help!
Also, what’s the best way to get money there? Can you enter India with cash on you?
Thanks for your help!
hi everyone,
I’m planning a trip to Northern India (Rajasthan, Ganges Valley with Varanasi (Benares)).
My travel agency is offering me two tour operators: Asia with the "Saris and Saddhus" circuit, and Salaun with the "Northern India and the Ganges Valley" circuit. I’ve already traveled to Sri Lanka and Southern India with Asia. The trips went really well.
I don’t know Salaun Holidays. Their circuit seems more comprehensive, with a day of relaxation (16 days on site). Travel with Air France.
Has any member of this forum done the "Northern India and the Ganges Valley" circuit with Salaun? Can I get your feedback on the tour operator Salaun Holidays?
Thanks so much
I’m planning a trip to Northern India (Rajasthan, Ganges Valley with Varanasi (Benares)).
My travel agency is offering me two tour operators: Asia with the "Saris and Saddhus" circuit, and Salaun with the "Northern India and the Ganges Valley" circuit. I’ve already traveled to Sri Lanka and Southern India with Asia. The trips went really well.
I don’t know Salaun Holidays. Their circuit seems more comprehensive, with a day of relaxation (16 days on site). Travel with Air France.
Has any member of this forum done the "Northern India and the Ganges Valley" circuit with Salaun? Can I get your feedback on the tour operator Salaun Holidays?
Thanks so much
Hi there,
I’m planning to do the Zanskar crossing from Lamayuru to Darcha in August 2026.
I know the route has changed quite a bit in recent years, and I’m struggling to find reliable info on whether it’s possible to do this trek independently with just two people—sleeping and eating with locals each day.
I’m also open to hiring a muleteer or going through an agency, so I’d love any recent and trustworthy recommendations on that too.
Thanks in advance,
Jean-Marc
Hi there,
We’re a group of 7 people heading to SRI LANKA in March.
We’re transiting through Mumbai (Air India flight), then after a few hours, we’ll take a SriLankan Airlines flight to Colombo.
The return trip follows the same route 26 days later.
The issue is about the Indian visa.
1- Do we need an Indian visa since we’ll only be at Mumbai Airport for a few hours (no checked baggage)?
2- Do we need a double-entry visa?
Thanks for your help—everything I’ve read online is pretty unclear.
We’re a group of 7 people heading to SRI LANKA in March.
We’re transiting through Mumbai (Air India flight), then after a few hours, we’ll take a SriLankan Airlines flight to Colombo.
The return trip follows the same route 26 days later.
The issue is about the Indian visa.
1- Do we need an Indian visa since we’ll only be at Mumbai Airport for a few hours (no checked baggage)?
2- Do we need a double-entry visa?
Thanks for your help—everything I’ve read online is pretty unclear.
We traveled as a couple from October 20 to December 11, 2025, for our second trip to India and our first time in Rajasthan, plus Mathura and Agra, which are in Uttar Pradesh but right on the border, and a 4-day flight hop to Varanasi.
Here’s a non-detailed trip report—just to share some info we found useful for other travelers, along with a few places and addresses we particularly enjoyed.
First off, a big thank you to (I’m using usernames) Aleph240758, Solene40, Montagnard74, and Pagaljavab, who took the time to reply to me. Some of them even take the time to create detailed and illustrated travel stories. Since I only started planning the trip in mid-August, I didn’t have much time and used the trip reports on VoyageForum to build our itinerary.
One more note: everyone travels differently and has their own preferences... so I’ll just share our personal feelings, which are obviously subjective.
We bought a physical SIM card upon arriving at the airport. The Airtel stand only offers one package for 500 rupees (just under 5 €) for 28 days, with 1.5 GB of data, unlimited national SMS, and calls—more than enough. Contrary to what we’d read, we asked for activation at the counter, and it was active within 10 minutes. The SIM worked well everywhere. Watch out—like in all airports, there’s a tendency to take advantage of tourists. The Airtel counter offers to exchange money directly, and we saw people paying 20 € for the SIM.
Since we arrived at night, the metro wasn’t running anymore. Plus, if you don’t know the city, we’d recommend taking a prepaid taxi—the price is fixed, and the driver knows the destination. Be careful: the prepaid taxi counter is on the right as you exit the hall, with large fixed signs above. Many counters put out a card on the desk saying "prepaid taxi," and even the Airtel stand tries to offer supposedly prepaid taxis, which is completely false. The price they ask for could be double or triple.
Here’s an app that was super useful for us In most big cities, we used "Rapido," an Indian app like Uber, to book auto-rickshaws (you can also book motorbikes or cars). You need a local phone number for this. The big advantage? The price is fixed, though you can still leave a tip. It tracks your ride, and most importantly, the destination is entered—way more practical than hailing an auto-rickshaw on the street, where the driver says "yes, yes," gives a price, and then doesn’t know where to go once you’re on the way. No need to enter a credit card. There’s also OlaCabs, which is similar, but we couldn’t get it to work.
For transportation between stops, we used government buses (RSRTC, blue buses), sometimes taxis via apps or by asking the guesthouse for visits and hard-to-reach places. This choice was really personal and made on the spot. - **Pros:** Buses leave almost every 30 minutes everywhere, giving you a lot of freedom. Every time we left from the bus station (bus stand), we had seats. Several times, we even got to sit in the driver’s cabin! The trip takes longer than a taxi, but not *that* much longer. The price is ridiculously low—1.30 € for 100 km for men, 70 cents for women. The bus stations are in the city centers, unlike many private bus companies. We met some great people. - **Cons:** It’s not exactly clean, and you’re obviously not in the comfort of a taxi. It’s not door-to-door service, so you need to travel light. You can’t stop along the way. If you need to catch the bus mid-route, it’s usually full, and you’ll have to elbow your way in without hesitation. For a short trip, I think hiring a taxi for the whole stay makes sense. Like I said, there’s no one-size-fits-all choice, but there’s no need to be apprehensive about taking public buses.
Here’s our route map, showing the number of nights spent at each stop.
Compared to our initial plan, we slept one night in Barmer instead of two because we had time to visit the market in the afternoon, saw the Kiradu site the next morning, and didn’t see the point in staying longer.
We cut two of the six nights in Shekhawati. After our flight to Varanasi was canceled, we had to stay in Delhi, which actually turned out well—it let us arrive in Varanasi earlier and more rested.
The timing worked well for us, with longer stops in Bundi and Udaipur.
I won’t go into detail about each stop here, but I’d be happy to answer any questions. The accommodations and restaurants mentioned are the ones that had that little something extra, and the hearts (❤️❤️❤️) mark the sites we particularly loved.
Tijana Fort Palace - Accommodation and recovery from the trip
Alwar - Palace with museum - Moosi Maharani Ki Chhatri - Large reservoir
Bharatpur Accommodation: Iora Guesthouse, 14 €/night without breakfast—great value, cheap, good meals, close to the reserve Morning at Keoladeo Reserve by bike
Mathura - Ghats (Yamuna Ghats, Vishram Ghat) to visit in the evening - Market (Chattu Bazar) - Hindu temple Shri Dwarkadheesh dedicated to Krishna - Vrindavan temple Banke Bihari, ❤️❤️❤️ a very important temple with incredible religious fervor - Vrindavan Hindu temple Balaram ISKCON
Agra Accommodation: Shivalayaa - The Divine Abode, 16 €/night with breakfast on Booking—welcoming, clean, close to the Taj Mahal - Mausoleum of Akbar the Great (in Sikandra) ❤️❤️❤️ - Mausoleum of Itimad-ud-Daulah (mini Taj) ❤️❤️❤️ - Visit the Taj early in the morning (closed on Fridays) ❤️❤️❤️ - Agra Fort ❤️❤️❤️
Dholpur - Machkund Temple with its water body - Clock Tower Ghanta Ghar - Royal stepwell Dhaulpur Bavdi
Karauli - City Palace, private visit with a guard ❤️❤️❤️ - Shri Madan Mohan Temple for the puja starting at 5:30 PM ❤️❤️❤️ - Wandering the streets We loved this stop, which is off the main tourist trail, for its pleasant atmosphere
Bhandarej This is a stop as a starting point to visit the Chand Baori stepwell in Abhaneri ❤️❤️❤️ Accommodation: Bhadrawati Palace, 53 €/night with breakfast in Bhandarej—nice, an old palace, warm welcome, booked via Hotels.com We were the only guests and had dinner with the current manager, the grandson of the Maharaja. There’s a pretty stepwell in the village, and we visited a tiny neighborhood temple where we were invited to join in the singing and dancing. Walking through the market was really enjoyable because of the kindness of the locals, who aren’t used to tourism ❤️❤️❤️
Jaipur - Hawa Mahal (Palace of Winds) - Jal Mahal - Gaitore Ki Chhatriyan ❤️❤️❤️ - Amber Fort ❤️❤️❤️ - Panna Meena Ka Kund stepwell - Galta Ji Temple (Monkey Temple) ❤️❤️❤️ - Bagru, 33 km away: visit to a fabric printing workshop with block prints (I’d noted some addresses on Google Maps). The first workshop wasn’t very welcoming and had no workers because of the humid weather. We were lucky to find another, more welcoming workshop. When the sun came out, the three female workers arrived and started their work—it was a great visit ❤️❤️❤️.
Bundi Accommodation: Hotel Bundi Inn, 25 €/night with breakfast—lovely room in a haveli, good meals with a rooftop view of the fort - Garh Palace Don’t miss: at the exit of the palace, to the left, you can access a beautiful garden with a pool and, at the back, a large hall called Chitrashala ❤️❤️❤️ - Raniji Ki Baori ❤️❤️❤️ - Nahar Dhunk Ki Baori - Chaurasi Khambun Ki Chhatri (cenotaph with 84 pillars) - Ksar Bagh, an interesting set of royal cenotaphs at the end of Jait Sagar Lake. On the other hand, we could’ve skipped Sukh Mahal and its museum. Bundi is still pleasant but is no longer a secret spot.
We bought a physical SIM card upon arriving at the airport. The Airtel stand only offers one package for 500 rupees (just under 5 €) for 28 days, with 1.5 GB of data, unlimited national SMS, and calls—more than enough. Contrary to what we’d read, we asked for activation at the counter, and it was active within 10 minutes. The SIM worked well everywhere. Watch out—like in all airports, there’s a tendency to take advantage of tourists. The Airtel counter offers to exchange money directly, and we saw people paying 20 € for the SIM.
Since we arrived at night, the metro wasn’t running anymore. Plus, if you don’t know the city, we’d recommend taking a prepaid taxi—the price is fixed, and the driver knows the destination. Be careful: the prepaid taxi counter is on the right as you exit the hall, with large fixed signs above. Many counters put out a card on the desk saying "prepaid taxi," and even the Airtel stand tries to offer supposedly prepaid taxis, which is completely false. The price they ask for could be double or triple.
Here’s an app that was super useful for us In most big cities, we used "Rapido," an Indian app like Uber, to book auto-rickshaws (you can also book motorbikes or cars). You need a local phone number for this. The big advantage? The price is fixed, though you can still leave a tip. It tracks your ride, and most importantly, the destination is entered—way more practical than hailing an auto-rickshaw on the street, where the driver says "yes, yes," gives a price, and then doesn’t know where to go once you’re on the way. No need to enter a credit card. There’s also OlaCabs, which is similar, but we couldn’t get it to work.
For transportation between stops, we used government buses (RSRTC, blue buses), sometimes taxis via apps or by asking the guesthouse for visits and hard-to-reach places. This choice was really personal and made on the spot. - **Pros:** Buses leave almost every 30 minutes everywhere, giving you a lot of freedom. Every time we left from the bus station (bus stand), we had seats. Several times, we even got to sit in the driver’s cabin! The trip takes longer than a taxi, but not *that* much longer. The price is ridiculously low—1.30 € for 100 km for men, 70 cents for women. The bus stations are in the city centers, unlike many private bus companies. We met some great people. - **Cons:** It’s not exactly clean, and you’re obviously not in the comfort of a taxi. It’s not door-to-door service, so you need to travel light. You can’t stop along the way. If you need to catch the bus mid-route, it’s usually full, and you’ll have to elbow your way in without hesitation. For a short trip, I think hiring a taxi for the whole stay makes sense. Like I said, there’s no one-size-fits-all choice, but there’s no need to be apprehensive about taking public buses.
Here’s our route map, showing the number of nights spent at each stop.
Compared to our initial plan, we slept one night in Barmer instead of two because we had time to visit the market in the afternoon, saw the Kiradu site the next morning, and didn’t see the point in staying longer.
We cut two of the six nights in Shekhawati. After our flight to Varanasi was canceled, we had to stay in Delhi, which actually turned out well—it let us arrive in Varanasi earlier and more rested.
The timing worked well for us, with longer stops in Bundi and Udaipur.I won’t go into detail about each stop here, but I’d be happy to answer any questions. The accommodations and restaurants mentioned are the ones that had that little something extra, and the hearts (❤️❤️❤️) mark the sites we particularly loved.
Tijana Fort Palace - Accommodation and recovery from the trip
Alwar - Palace with museum - Moosi Maharani Ki Chhatri - Large reservoir

Bharatpur Accommodation: Iora Guesthouse, 14 €/night without breakfast—great value, cheap, good meals, close to the reserve Morning at Keoladeo Reserve by bike

Mathura - Ghats (Yamuna Ghats, Vishram Ghat) to visit in the evening - Market (Chattu Bazar) - Hindu temple Shri Dwarkadheesh dedicated to Krishna - Vrindavan temple Banke Bihari, ❤️❤️❤️ a very important temple with incredible religious fervor - Vrindavan Hindu temple Balaram ISKCON

Agra Accommodation: Shivalayaa - The Divine Abode, 16 €/night with breakfast on Booking—welcoming, clean, close to the Taj Mahal - Mausoleum of Akbar the Great (in Sikandra) ❤️❤️❤️ - Mausoleum of Itimad-ud-Daulah (mini Taj) ❤️❤️❤️ - Visit the Taj early in the morning (closed on Fridays) ❤️❤️❤️ - Agra Fort ❤️❤️❤️

Dholpur - Machkund Temple with its water body - Clock Tower Ghanta Ghar - Royal stepwell Dhaulpur Bavdi

Karauli - City Palace, private visit with a guard ❤️❤️❤️ - Shri Madan Mohan Temple for the puja starting at 5:30 PM ❤️❤️❤️ - Wandering the streets We loved this stop, which is off the main tourist trail, for its pleasant atmosphere

Bhandarej This is a stop as a starting point to visit the Chand Baori stepwell in Abhaneri ❤️❤️❤️ Accommodation: Bhadrawati Palace, 53 €/night with breakfast in Bhandarej—nice, an old palace, warm welcome, booked via Hotels.com We were the only guests and had dinner with the current manager, the grandson of the Maharaja. There’s a pretty stepwell in the village, and we visited a tiny neighborhood temple where we were invited to join in the singing and dancing. Walking through the market was really enjoyable because of the kindness of the locals, who aren’t used to tourism ❤️❤️❤️

Jaipur - Hawa Mahal (Palace of Winds) - Jal Mahal - Gaitore Ki Chhatriyan ❤️❤️❤️ - Amber Fort ❤️❤️❤️ - Panna Meena Ka Kund stepwell - Galta Ji Temple (Monkey Temple) ❤️❤️❤️ - Bagru, 33 km away: visit to a fabric printing workshop with block prints (I’d noted some addresses on Google Maps). The first workshop wasn’t very welcoming and had no workers because of the humid weather. We were lucky to find another, more welcoming workshop. When the sun came out, the three female workers arrived and started their work—it was a great visit ❤️❤️❤️.

Bundi Accommodation: Hotel Bundi Inn, 25 €/night with breakfast—lovely room in a haveli, good meals with a rooftop view of the fort - Garh Palace Don’t miss: at the exit of the palace, to the left, you can access a beautiful garden with a pool and, at the back, a large hall called Chitrashala ❤️❤️❤️ - Raniji Ki Baori ❤️❤️❤️ - Nahar Dhunk Ki Baori - Chaurasi Khambun Ki Chhatri (cenotaph with 84 pillars) - Ksar Bagh, an interesting set of royal cenotaphs at the end of Jait Sagar Lake. On the other hand, we could’ve skipped Sukh Mahal and its museum. Bundi is still pleasant but is no longer a secret spot.
Hi, I really struggled to fill out the e-visa form. I uploaded my passport and everything correctly, but when it came to payment, it failed three times (on different devices). I'm a bit disheartened and don’t know what to do next. Is using PayPal a better solution?
Thanks for your tips. Marsyork
Thanks for your tips. Marsyork
Hi there.
We’re heading to India at the end of December for a month.
I planned an itinerary: Delhi, Nawalgarh, Sikar, Jodhpur, Udaipur, Chittaurgarh, Bundi, Jaipur, Bharatpur, and back to Delhi.
Our driver told us it’s not possible because there are no roads.
He’s suggesting the usual tourist circuit, which we don’t want to do.
What do you think of my route?
Any tips?
Thanks, community!
Exploring India by road is all about having a good driver. I highly recommend the one I’ve traveled with for 5 "safe" trips—Rajasthan 3 times over 16 years, Gujarat, Himachal Pradesh, and Punjab. He’s been driving tourists for 25 years now and is more than just a driver. He knows how to talk about his country, the cities you visit, and suggests alternative routes.
He’s well-connected with real local guides who don’t just ramble (as he puts it himself) or drag you into shops claiming to be run by their "so-called family." Depending on your preferences, he can suggest well-tested itineraries and recommend typical hotels like Havelis.
For dining, he oversees meal prep based on your spice-level preferences. He’s Sikh and deeply respectful of his passengers.
He speaks English better than French, but one of his daughters is studying French at university.
DM me if you’d like his contact details.
Happy travels!
He’s well-connected with real local guides who don’t just ramble (as he puts it himself) or drag you into shops claiming to be run by their "so-called family." Depending on your preferences, he can suggest well-tested itineraries and recommend typical hotels like Havelis.
For dining, he oversees meal prep based on your spice-level preferences. He’s Sikh and deeply respectful of his passengers.
He speaks English better than French, but one of his daughters is studying French at university.
DM me if you’d like his contact details.
Happy travels!
Hello,
We’re a group of 4 looking for a driver and car for our stay in Kerala from November 22 to December 12, 2025. We’ve already planned an itinerary starting from Cochin.
We’ve traveled with a driver before during our trip to Rajasthan.
Thanks for your replies!
Yves
We’re a couple aged 58 and 63. We’ve just returned from a wonderful trip to South India in Tamil Nadu and a few days in Kerala. We traveled with a local French-speaking guide and his friend, the driver. They both live in Pondicherry. We spent 3 weeks with them in the most authentic way!
We covered just over 2,500 km and visited not only temples but also archaeological sites, museums, and small artisanal businesses making tiles, tea, sculptures, bronze, and silk spinning. We were lucky enough to visit a public school, attend a wedding, and even a death announcement in a small countryside village. We were fully immersed in the culture, food, noise, and colors—it was incredible!
The hotels and guesthouses we chose were very clean and mostly quiet. We’re returning from India with amazing discoveries!
We’re happy to share more info if you’d like! M-Claire and Jean
We covered just over 2,500 km and visited not only temples but also archaeological sites, museums, and small artisanal businesses making tiles, tea, sculptures, bronze, and silk spinning. We were lucky enough to visit a public school, attend a wedding, and even a death announcement in a small countryside village. We were fully immersed in the culture, food, noise, and colors—it was incredible!
The hotels and guesthouses we chose were very clean and mostly quiet. We’re returning from India with amazing discoveries!
We’re happy to share more info if you’d like! M-Claire and Jean
Hi everyone,
we’re heading to Tamil Nadu and Kerala at the start of the year for 30 days. We did Rajasthan 12 years ago, but things change fast.
I’ve read that to get a SIM card, you have to buy it at a shop and then go to the operator to get a number; you’d also need an Indian mobile number. Has anyone here had recent experience with this?
For buses and trains, do you need to book them well in advance?
Any tips are welcome—thanks in advance!
Happy holidays to all,
Philippe
Hi there
I’ve received my e-visa for India. Now, if I understand correctly, I need to confirm the status of my ETA. Is the ETA the same as the e-visa? Do I need to print the document? Thanks
I’ve received my e-visa for India. Now, if I understand correctly, I need to confirm the status of my ETA. Is the ETA the same as the e-visa? Do I need to print the document? Thanks
Hi everyone! 🙂
My partner (who’s a teacher—hence the summer holidays) and I are heading to Eastern India for 23 days in July. This is my 5th trip to India, but her first.
We fly into Delhi on July 7th and leave from Delhi on the 23rd (since our flight to Kolkata arrived late at night, and I wanted to show Agra and Varanasi to my partner).
We love getting off the beaten track and meeting people, so we’ll mostly be taking the train.
Here’s what we’re planning:
- **DELHI**: 1 night on the way (short because the plane is supposed to land at 01:55), then we take the train at 13:00 - **GWALIOR**: 3 nights, including a day trip to **AGRA** by train to see the Taj Mahal and the Red Fort (I find Agra too touristy to stay overnight). Otherwise, in Gwalior, the Fort, the temples, the Man Mandir Palace, and the Jai Vilas Palace if we have time. - **ORCHHA**: 2 nights... *maybe skip this to spend more time in VARANASI?* - **VARANASI**: overnight train + 3 nights, the Ghats, temples... maybe a day trip to **SARNATH**. - **KOLKATA**: overnight train + 3 nights. Maybe a countryside excursion to the ashram in Channa. *- Here we’re hesitating over 2 nights: either 2 nights in **SHANTINIKETAN** with a visit to **CHANNA** on the way, or a 2-day excursion to the **SUNDARBAN** nature park. But is it worth it in July during the monsoon?* - **PURI**: overnight train + 4 nights. *We’re planning to do everything from Puri, as it seems nicer than staying in BHUBANESWAR. What do you think?* Visit **KONARK** and **CHILIKA LAKE**. *Is it worth visiting Chilika Lake this season? Another question: can you swim in Puri, or is it too dangerous (waves)?* - Train to **BHUBANESWAR**, then a flight from BHUBANESWAR to **DELHI**, - 2 nights in **DELHI**, visiting Jama Masjid, and *either Humayun’s Tomb, Safdarjung’s Tomb, or Qutb Minar.*
Back to Paris. Total: 23 nights.
What do you think of these choices? What about the options we’re still unsure about *(in bold/italics)*? Thanks so much! 🙂
We fly into Delhi on July 7th and leave from Delhi on the 23rd (since our flight to Kolkata arrived late at night, and I wanted to show Agra and Varanasi to my partner).
We love getting off the beaten track and meeting people, so we’ll mostly be taking the train.
Here’s what we’re planning:
- **DELHI**: 1 night on the way (short because the plane is supposed to land at 01:55), then we take the train at 13:00 - **GWALIOR**: 3 nights, including a day trip to **AGRA** by train to see the Taj Mahal and the Red Fort (I find Agra too touristy to stay overnight). Otherwise, in Gwalior, the Fort, the temples, the Man Mandir Palace, and the Jai Vilas Palace if we have time. - **ORCHHA**: 2 nights... *maybe skip this to spend more time in VARANASI?* - **VARANASI**: overnight train + 3 nights, the Ghats, temples... maybe a day trip to **SARNATH**. - **KOLKATA**: overnight train + 3 nights. Maybe a countryside excursion to the ashram in Channa. *- Here we’re hesitating over 2 nights: either 2 nights in **SHANTINIKETAN** with a visit to **CHANNA** on the way, or a 2-day excursion to the **SUNDARBAN** nature park. But is it worth it in July during the monsoon?* - **PURI**: overnight train + 4 nights. *We’re planning to do everything from Puri, as it seems nicer than staying in BHUBANESWAR. What do you think?* Visit **KONARK** and **CHILIKA LAKE**. *Is it worth visiting Chilika Lake this season? Another question: can you swim in Puri, or is it too dangerous (waves)?* - Train to **BHUBANESWAR**, then a flight from BHUBANESWAR to **DELHI**, - 2 nights in **DELHI**, visiting Jama Masjid, and *either Humayun’s Tomb, Safdarjung’s Tomb, or Qutb Minar.*
Back to Paris. Total: 23 nights.
What do you think of these choices? What about the options we’re still unsure about *(in bold/italics)*? Thanks so much! 🙂
Hello my fellow travelers,
I’m leaving for 43 days in India from January 19, 2026, to March 1. How do I handle my e-visa if I don’t necessarily want a one-year visa? The one-month one will be too short... darn it!!
I just found out there’s an additional formality for the visa that came into effect on October 1. Could someone explain to me what it involves and exactly what I need to do? I’d really appreciate it—thank you so much in advance!
Wishing you all wonderful end-of-year celebrations, and may 2026 be filled with love and travels for each of you.
Régine
I’m leaving for 43 days in India from January 19, 2026, to March 1. How do I handle my e-visa if I don’t necessarily want a one-year visa? The one-month one will be too short... darn it!!
I just found out there’s an additional formality for the visa that came into effect on October 1. Could someone explain to me what it involves and exactly what I need to do? I’d really appreciate it—thank you so much in advance!
Wishing you all wonderful end-of-year celebrations, and may 2026 be filled with love and travels for each of you.
Régine
India is introducing an electronic arrival card for foreign travelers. The measure is effective for all travelers starting October 1st.
India is now adopting the electronic arrival card. Presenting this "e-Arrival Card" is now mandatory for all arrivals in India as of October 1, 2025. This formality replaces the paper card previously filled out on the plane or upon arrival. India aims to streamline traveler tracking. The requirement applies to travelers of all nationalities, both adults and minors, for all entry points into India. It’s an additional mandatory formality alongside the e-Visa or visa. The e-Arrival Card must be completed online within three days prior to arrival in the country. Available in English only, it’s free and can be done on the official Indian authorities' website. The document is valid only for the declared arrival day. "This means you’ll need to complete it for each new arrival," clarifies RapideVisa, an agency specializing in visa services. Travelers must provide standard information to obtain the document (passport number, purpose of stay, countries visited in the 6 days before arrival, etc.).
Once completed, a document with a QR code to present to authorities upon arrival is generated. With this new system, India aims to facilitate traveler tracking and reduce congestion at airport counters. Nearly 19 million international visitors traveled to India in 2023. Among them, 189,000 were French.
Source: https://www.lechotouristique.com/article/inde-une-nouvelle-formalite-obligatoire-pour-voyager
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1WaPqVyUmuY
India is now adopting the electronic arrival card. Presenting this "e-Arrival Card" is now mandatory for all arrivals in India as of October 1, 2025. This formality replaces the paper card previously filled out on the plane or upon arrival. India aims to streamline traveler tracking. The requirement applies to travelers of all nationalities, both adults and minors, for all entry points into India. It’s an additional mandatory formality alongside the e-Visa or visa. The e-Arrival Card must be completed online within three days prior to arrival in the country. Available in English only, it’s free and can be done on the official Indian authorities' website. The document is valid only for the declared arrival day. "This means you’ll need to complete it for each new arrival," clarifies RapideVisa, an agency specializing in visa services. Travelers must provide standard information to obtain the document (passport number, purpose of stay, countries visited in the 6 days before arrival, etc.).
Once completed, a document with a QR code to present to authorities upon arrival is generated. With this new system, India aims to facilitate traveler tracking and reduce congestion at airport counters. Nearly 19 million international visitors traveled to India in 2023. Among them, 189,000 were French.
Source: https://www.lechotouristique.com/article/inde-une-nouvelle-formalite-obligatoire-pour-voyager
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1WaPqVyUmuY
Before I begin, I’d like to thank Michèle Buisson and her "Misha’s travel journals," which really helped me plan this trip. It’s tough to find information about this part of India, which is quite different from the "more traditional India." I’m so grateful to her for introducing me to a family who hosted me for 4 nights and 3 days. I can’t wait to return the favor and welcome you all to my place in early July!
Thursday, March 20th. The alarm goes off super early, but I’m already awake—I was too worried I’d sleep through it. I leave the house at 4:00 AM. The rain has stopped, and at this hour, there aren’t many trucks on the road. I arrive at Barcelona Airport easily by 6:20 AM, let the valet know I’m there, and he quickly picks up my car. This time, I’m flying with Etihad Airways again. I booked the ticket during my trip to Cambodia: Barcelona/Kolkata, Delhi/Barcelona for 567 €. At that price, I didn’t hesitate for long—I knew I had to take it. And I’m glad I did because, by the time I returned, the price had gone up to 700 €. I can already hear the reactions: "Wow, how’d you get a ticket for that price? What site did you use? You’re amazing, MarieJo!" One thing’s for sure—I’m really happy with this deal. The flights from Barcelona to Abu Dhabi and Abu Dhabi to Kolkata go smoothly, and we arrive on time at 2:55 AM. There aren’t many people at immigration, so I get through quickly. My luggage isn’t on the carousel yet. After collecting my bag, I check in for my next flight with IndiGo, a 5:40 AM flight to Guwahati, arriving at 7:00 AM. I’m starting to feel pretty tired, so I take a taxi from the airport to Gruham Sojourn Homestay. The house is upstairs, and the neighborhood seems quiet, with restaurants lining the street. The room won’t be ready until 10:00 AM, so I rest on the bench in the meantime. Once in the room, I take a shower—it really helps me feel refreshed. I need to exchange some euros, so I look up a nearby exchange bureau on Google and head out to find it. I locate it easily, and the staff are super friendly. I get a great rate (1 € = 90 INR). I wander around the neighborhood. The train station isn’t far, and small markets line the streets. I head back to my area, walking along the main avenue. About 500 meters from my street, I discover a museum. The visit is fascinating—I see the famous Majuli masks, among other things.

I’m not far from the Brahmaputra River, and the temptation to visit is too strong to resist. I’d hoped to find a promenade along the river, but that doesn’t exist here. I walk back calmly and notice several restaurants in my street. On the doorstep of my accommodation, I spot a pastry shop with cakes that look more like the ones we have in France than the typical ones here in India. A visit is a must, and I’m not disappointed!

Tonight, I’m dining at a restaurant in the street. The menu is a bit disappointing—burgers, pizzas, pasta—nothing very Indian. So, I’ll go with tomato pasta.
Thursday, March 20th. The alarm goes off super early, but I’m already awake—I was too worried I’d sleep through it. I leave the house at 4:00 AM. The rain has stopped, and at this hour, there aren’t many trucks on the road. I arrive at Barcelona Airport easily by 6:20 AM, let the valet know I’m there, and he quickly picks up my car. This time, I’m flying with Etihad Airways again. I booked the ticket during my trip to Cambodia: Barcelona/Kolkata, Delhi/Barcelona for 567 €. At that price, I didn’t hesitate for long—I knew I had to take it. And I’m glad I did because, by the time I returned, the price had gone up to 700 €. I can already hear the reactions: "Wow, how’d you get a ticket for that price? What site did you use? You’re amazing, MarieJo!" One thing’s for sure—I’m really happy with this deal. The flights from Barcelona to Abu Dhabi and Abu Dhabi to Kolkata go smoothly, and we arrive on time at 2:55 AM. There aren’t many people at immigration, so I get through quickly. My luggage isn’t on the carousel yet. After collecting my bag, I check in for my next flight with IndiGo, a 5:40 AM flight to Guwahati, arriving at 7:00 AM. I’m starting to feel pretty tired, so I take a taxi from the airport to Gruham Sojourn Homestay. The house is upstairs, and the neighborhood seems quiet, with restaurants lining the street. The room won’t be ready until 10:00 AM, so I rest on the bench in the meantime. Once in the room, I take a shower—it really helps me feel refreshed. I need to exchange some euros, so I look up a nearby exchange bureau on Google and head out to find it. I locate it easily, and the staff are super friendly. I get a great rate (1 € = 90 INR). I wander around the neighborhood. The train station isn’t far, and small markets line the streets. I head back to my area, walking along the main avenue. About 500 meters from my street, I discover a museum. The visit is fascinating—I see the famous Majuli masks, among other things.


I’m not far from the Brahmaputra River, and the temptation to visit is too strong to resist. I’d hoped to find a promenade along the river, but that doesn’t exist here. I walk back calmly and notice several restaurants in my street. On the doorstep of my accommodation, I spot a pastry shop with cakes that look more like the ones we have in France than the typical ones here in India. A visit is a must, and I’m not disappointed!

Tonight, I’m dining at a restaurant in the street. The menu is a bit disappointing—burgers, pizzas, pasta—nothing very Indian. So, I’ll go with tomato pasta.
For those planning a trip to Kerala, here’s a quick, practical summary.
For the most part: the stunning landscapes, the natural kindness of the locals, their cuisine, and their culture—you’ll get to enjoy all of that once you’re there...
Flight (arrival and departure to/from Cochin)
Avoid Air India and opt for flights via the Middle East: Saudi Arabia, Qatar, United Arab Emirates, Oman, etc.
Price: between 500 € and 600 €
Accommodations
Average price: 20 € per night for a couple (max: 40 €, min: 10 €, often including breakfast), via the usual booking sites.
Homestays (staying in the owner’s house) are of a higher standard.
Only 2 nights were spent in questionable cleanliness. The rest were good, even very good, or even *very* very good.
Car with Driver
All-inclusive daily price: tolls, fuel, driver’s lodging and meals... and of course, we often shared our meals with our driver too.
Toyota sedan (e.g., Corolla) for 4 travelers (1 in front, 3 in the back): 50 € / day,
Toyota SUV (e.g., Innova) for up to 6 travelers: 60 € / day
DM me if you’d like more details.
Overall budget (excluding flights and shopping) Around 1500 € for 1 couple for the 3 weeks... in "2-couple mode"! (i.e., sharing the driver’s cost). Itinerary
Night 1: Arrival in Cochin in the morning, departure for Attirappily Beautiful waterfalls
Night 2: Thrissur Via Vallachira, not much tourist interest, a stop to ease into the trip and shorten the journey to Wayanad
Nights 3, 4, 5: Wayanad, staying in Sultan Battery Coffee and tea plantations, dam lake, URAVU (bamboo craft workshop), ...
Night 6: Ooty Botanical garden, then a really fun tourist train the next afternoon to Metupalaiyam
Night 7: Toward Coimbatore
Nights 8, 9, 10: Munnar City visit, stunning tea plantations
Nights 11, 12: Thekkady/Kumilly Amazing tea plantations, sightseeing, Jeep ride, not-so-interesting boat tour on Periyar Lake, trekking options
Night 13: Marari Beach (near Alleppey) 4-hour backwaters tour, then beach (swimming, dinner)
Nights 14, 15, 16: Munroe Island Super chill, walks around the island (small coir rope factory), sunrise by boat or canoe, sunset
Night 17: Varkala Gorgeous beaches, shopping
Night 18: Trivandrum City center visit, then train back to Cochin the next day in 3 hours.
Night 19: Cochin Fort Kochi is a lovely way to wrap up the trip
Have a great trip in this incredible region, so unique in India!
Overall budget (excluding flights and shopping) Around 1500 € for 1 couple for the 3 weeks... in "2-couple mode"! (i.e., sharing the driver’s cost). Itinerary
Night 1: Arrival in Cochin in the morning, departure for Attirappily Beautiful waterfalls
Night 2: Thrissur Via Vallachira, not much tourist interest, a stop to ease into the trip and shorten the journey to Wayanad
Nights 3, 4, 5: Wayanad, staying in Sultan Battery Coffee and tea plantations, dam lake, URAVU (bamboo craft workshop), ...
Night 6: Ooty Botanical garden, then a really fun tourist train the next afternoon to Metupalaiyam
Night 7: Toward Coimbatore
Nights 8, 9, 10: Munnar City visit, stunning tea plantations
Nights 11, 12: Thekkady/Kumilly Amazing tea plantations, sightseeing, Jeep ride, not-so-interesting boat tour on Periyar Lake, trekking options
Night 13: Marari Beach (near Alleppey) 4-hour backwaters tour, then beach (swimming, dinner)
Nights 14, 15, 16: Munroe Island Super chill, walks around the island (small coir rope factory), sunrise by boat or canoe, sunset
Night 17: Varkala Gorgeous beaches, shopping
Night 18: Trivandrum City center visit, then train back to Cochin the next day in 3 hours.
Night 19: Cochin Fort Kochi is a lovely way to wrap up the trip
Have a great trip in this incredible region, so unique in India!
Hi everyone, Kerala experts (especially Marien!)
In January, I’m planning another trip to Kerala. We’ll arrive in Kochi and travel up the coast by train to Gokarna.
So I’m reaching out to ask if it’s worth stopping for a few days in any of the following spots (not all, of course—just one or two that are really worth it...). From what I’ve seen, few Western tourists stop along this coast, given how little info there is about it:
Mahe, Thalassery, Taliparamba, Nileshwar, Bekal, Kasaragod
I’m not mentioning Kannur because we’ve already been there, specifically Thottada Beach, and we’re familiar with the southern destinations (Trivandrum, Kovalam, etc.).
Thanks for your replies!
Anne
Hello,
My husband and I usually spend a month in January/February in southern India. We end our trip in Gokarna and fly back from Vasco de Gama Airport in Dabolim. So, it might make sense to spend a few days in a nice, quiet spot in southern Goa. Do you have any recommendations?
Thanks
Hi everyone,
This year, 2026, I can only get away in April and May. I never travel during these months usually, and from what I know, they aren’t the best for India. But in such a big country, there are always spots that are better than others weather-wise.
Which region would you recommend? Given that I’ve already traveled quite a bit in this country, and in any case, I’ll be discovering places I don’t know yet. No need for a major tourist hotspot or luxury comfort.
I was thinking of Meghalaya???
Up north?
Thanks for your ideas!
This year, 2026, I can only get away in April and May. I never travel during these months usually, and from what I know, they aren’t the best for India. But in such a big country, there are always spots that are better than others weather-wise.
Which region would you recommend? Given that I’ve already traveled quite a bit in this country, and in any case, I’ll be discovering places I don’t know yet. No need for a major tourist hotspot or luxury comfort.
I was thinking of Meghalaya???
Up north?
Thanks for your ideas!
Hi there,
I want to visit Nagaland, but now you need the PAP, which you can apply for on the dedicated Indian website.
It’s tricky to fill out and on top of that, it’s expensive.
Any tips for going through this process?
Otherwise, no Hornbill Festival for me!
Thanks
Hello all my fellow globetrotters,
I’m heading to Kerala this coming January. I was wondering if any of you have ever managed to visit the inside of the famous Padmanabhapuram Temple, which is off-limits to non-Hindus?
I know there’s a way to request special permission to enter, but I could really use your insights.
Thanks so much in advance. Take care and enjoy exploring our beautiful planet.
Best regards, Régine
Thanks so much in advance. Take care and enjoy exploring our beautiful planet.
Best regards, Régine
Hello,
We’re planning a family trip (4 strong hikers, all adults) to Kashmir-Ladakh in August 2026!
We’d like to explore and do some treks—challenging but without technical difficulty (we’re not mountaineers).
To start, do you have any tips or recommendations for 4- to 6-day treks in Himalayan landscapes? Which town or village should we start from? We’ll figure out how to get there later. Should we hire a local guide?
We’re just starting to organize, so we’re open to all your advice. Is it possible to spend a few days in a monastery?
Thanks so much for your replies! See you soon,
Laurent
To start, do you have any tips or recommendations for 4- to 6-day treks in Himalayan landscapes? Which town or village should we start from? We’ll figure out how to get there later. Should we hire a local guide?
We’re just starting to organize, so we’re open to all your advice. Is it possible to spend a few days in a monastery?
Thanks so much for your replies! See you soon,
Laurent
Hi everyone,
We’d love to return to India next year for 3 weeks (we visited Rajasthan about fifteen years ago). Unfortunately, we’re tied to traveling in September, and our initial plan was to explore Himachal Pradesh. However, it seems like that might not be the best month for this region.
Could you share your experiences from that time of year in Shimla, Manali, Dharamsala, or even the Spiti Valley—in short, anywhere in Himachal Pradesh? Otherwise, which region of India would you recommend for a September trip?
Thanks so much!
Hi there, my husband and I are planning to visit the maharajas' palaces in Rajasthan in 2026. We're looking for a fairly long tour (10 days or more). Do you have any tips on which palaces to visit, cities and places to discover, the best tour operators, and the best time to go? Thanks in advance for your advice and recommendations!




