Friday, November 4
My flight Barcelona - Abu Dhabi - Delhi went smoothly, it’s on time, and here I am back in India after 3 long years.
As I step off the plane, we head toward customs. It’s 3 AM, I’m tired but happy. The huge customs hall is below ground level and buzzing with people who’ve just arrived. In the end, they’re well organized—Indians to the left, foreigners to the right, and all along the hall, the customs officers’ posts, who remain very zen despite the crowd. It took me less than 2 hours to get out of the airport, which was pretty quick.
For this return trip, I got in touch with a driver from the "Lovers of India" group who was supposed to take me from the airport to Udaipur, passing through non-touristy villages like I love. This French-speaking driver had convinced me to travel by car, which was supposed to make moving from village to village easier. Two or three days before departure, I receive a message from the driver saying he was sick with a cold and sending another driver, his very kind brother who knows Rajasthan well but doesn’t speak French. I’m a bit disappointed by this message and doubtful about the driver’s sincerity, but I don’t have time to find another driver, so I stick to my plans, though I’m not at ease.
At the exit, the driver hasn’t arrived, and I wait half an hour before seeing him show up with a big smile, "Namaste." We don’t waste time and head to the car, which is clean and new.
We get to know each other in the car and hit the road toward Alwar. Along the way, we stop for lunch and to taste my first masala chai, which wakes up my taste buds.
I doze off during the drive, and we arrive at the Atlantic Hotel in Alwar at 10:30 AM. My room is on the ground floor, and I settle in quickly. The Wi-Fi isn’t working, but the staff do everything they can to fix it.
At noon, Gajender, the driver, suggests visiting the Qila Fort, which is on the heights of Alwar.
The fort is closed for restoration, but safari tours are offered—jeep, guide, driver, and visit for 1600 Rs.
We follow the great wall, which is impressive—the second largest in India and the third in the world.
We spot peacocks and monkeys.
The guide shows me an old stepwell lost in nature.
It’s always my thing to check out these baoris, which can be stunning, but this one isn’t anything special.
We arrive at the palace overlooking the city.
We walk around the palace, and I discover another stepwell that’s not worth lingering over.
The tour is over, and I had a great time despite the fatigue.
We head back down to Alwar, near the City Palace, which has been turned into administrative offices. Gaju (the driver’s nickname) finds a parking spot near a dhaba where we have lunch (paneer masala, chapatis, chai)—it’s delicious.
With my energy restored, we head to the palace. On the top floor is a museum that I visit.
At the exit of the museum, we have to go back down and walk around the palace to get to the Moosi Maharani Chhatri. I’ve been here once before and really liked it, and the place is still the same—calm and relaxing.
"This monument is the most artistic in Alwar and also the most royal, filled with fascinating history. Maharaja Vinay Singh of Alwar built this two-story cenotaph in 1815 in memory of his father, Maharaja Bakhtawar Singh. It’s also known as Moosi Maharani ki Chhatri, named after the king’s mistress, who performed sati upon his death. After the sati, she was accepted as the king’s wife. It’s an elegant monument, shaped like a flower and built with a mix of brown sandstone and white marble.
The first floor is made of sandstone, while the upper floor and the chhatris (cenotaphs) are in white marble. Its sculpted pavilion has dome-shaped arches with intricate lace-like and exquisite floral patterns. There are complex motifs that shine brightly in the sunlight.
The colorful circular ceiling is an important part of Moosi Maharani Ki Chhatri and is adorned with faded gold-leaf paintings of mythological figures and scenes. The footprints of Maharaja and Moosi Rani are engraved in marble inside the cenotaph, and locals pay their respects to them."
Near the chhatri, there’s a large water reservoir with a magnificent view. The place is peaceful and relaxing, and I stay here for a while, contemplating and daydreaming before heading back to the hotel for some well-deserved rest. The Wi-Fi is working now. I’m the only foreign guest, and since my room is near the entrance, I’ll be well taken care of throughout my stay.
Hi there, it's me again with more questions about Kerala!
I'm thinking of making the trip from Mysore to Cochin by private car (with a driver, of course) in one day. I'd love to get an idea of the price and travel time (and if you know a reliable agency).
Alternatively, maybe it's more interesting to do this trip by bus? I'm worried it might take much longer than with a private car.
This will be my first trip to South India, and I'm not really sure about travel times or how easy it is to get around by local buses or trains.
Thanks!
Hi everyone,
I’m planning a trip to Delhi and I’m looking for a very budget-friendly guesthouse for two people in the Majnu-ka-Tilla neighborhood.
If anyone knows a nice place with a low budget, I’d love to get the contact info, rates, or any feedback from your experience.
Thanks in advance for your help! 😊
Hi there, I’d love to spend two weeks with my partner in Kerala (arriving and departing from Kochi), and I’m currently looking for info to help build an itinerary. We’re more into hiking/nature and cultural discoveries, staying in youth hostels or simple accommodations.
If you’ve got any ideas, I’d love to hear them!
Thanks in advance
India inaugurates the new Navi Mumbai International Airport and the final phase of Mumbai’s Metro Line 3—a major turning point for the country’s infrastructure.
Mumbai, India’s economic capital, is entering a new era of modernization. The Indian government has officially inaugurated the Navi Mumbai International Airport, one of the country’s most ambitious infrastructure projects, along with the final phase of Metro Line 3, a key axis to ease congestion in the megacity.
The Navi Mumbai International Airport (NMIA), located about 35 km from the city center, aims to eventually handle up to 60 million passengers per year. Built to reduce pressure on the already saturated Chhatrapati Shivaji Maharaj Airport, it features ultra-modern facilities, sustainable design, and cutting-edge technologies for air traffic management and energy efficiency.
At the same time, the completion of Mumbai’s Metro Line 3, connecting Colaba to Bandra-SEEPZ, marks a major advancement in urban mobility. This 33.5 km underground section will significantly reduce travel time and congestion in a city known for its chronic traffic jams.
These two projects reflect the Indian government’s commitment to transforming Mumbai into a global hub, combining connectivity, sustainability, and economic development.
The Navi Mumbai International Airport (NMIA), a project two decades in the making, has finally come to fruition. Phase one of the airport was inaugurated Wednesday by Prime Minister Narendra Modi, in the presence of Chief Minister Devendra Fadnavis and Deputy Chief Ministers Eknath Shinde and Ajit Pawar.
Although the first phase, which includes Terminal 1 and Runway 1 with 10 bus gates and 29 aero bridges, has been inaugurated, flight operations will not begin immediately.
"Post-inauguration, the airport will be handed over to the Central Industrial Security Force (CISF) for a security sweep, which could take 30 to 45 days. We also need to mobilize customs and immigration teams and complete end-to-end testing, which is a 45-60-day process," said Arun Bansal, CEO of Adani Airports Holdings Ltd, developer and operator of the NMIA, during a press briefing at the NMIA premises Monday.
Even though an exact date hasn’t been announced, NMIA CEO Captain B V J K Sharma and Bansal said commercial flights are expected to begin in December 2025.
Plans of major carriers
Three major airlines—Air India, Akasa Air, and IndiGo—have already signed on to shift part of their operations to NMIA.
Last month, Air India announced plans to start with 20 daily departures (40 air traffic movements) through Air India Express, connecting 15 Indian cities in the first phase. By mid-2026, it aims to scale up to 55 daily departures, including up to five international flights.
IndiGo, which made its announcement in May, plans to operate 18 daily flights to more than 15 cities from the first day of commercial operations and intends to expand to 140 daily flights—30 of which will be international—within 18 months.
In June, Akasa Air said it will start with 15 daily domestic flights, scaling up to over 300 domestic and 50 international flights a week within a few months.
When asked which airline will operate the first flight, Bansal said, "We want all three airlines to be there on Day 1. It depends on who has the earliest slot that day, and the destination choice lies entirely with the airlines."
Operations to begin with 12-hour window
In the first month, flights will operate between 8 am and 8 pm, with the 12-hour window likely to be extended as operations stabilize. Although NMIA’s full capacity is 40 air traffic movements (ATMs) per hour, the initial phase will handle 10 ATMs—allowing 10 aircraft to land or take off every hour. Airlines are expected to announce routes and ticket sales soon.
Touted as an international aviation hub, NMIA positions Mumbai alongside global twin-airport cities such as London, Dubai, and New York, and plans to launch both domestic and international operations from Day 1.
Concession for international carriers
When asked if international carriers will be given any concessions, Bansal said, "For international airlines, we will not charge them parking fees for the first year."
The duo added that NMIA aims to reclaim Mumbai’s rightful place on the global aviation map. "For a decade… travelers didn’t have a choice—airlines couldn’t get additional slots (at the Mumbai airport), so traffic shifted to Delhi. We are course-correcting that with NMIA. It won’t happen overnight, but over the next five–seven years, you’ll see the change," said Bansal.
He noted that Mumbai currently lacks direct flights to major destinations in Europe and the U.S., something NMIA hopes to change.
"If you see east-to-west flights, Mumbai is a natural stop," added Sharma.
As reported earlier, NMIA will eventually feature four terminals and two parallel runways, with a total capacity to handle up to 90 million passengers per annum (MPPA), compared to 20 MPPA in the first phase.
In the long term, the airport aims to serve as a key transfer hub between the East and the West, enabling passengers from Southeast Asia to connect seamlessly to Europe and North America.
Hi there, I’m spending about ten days in Kerala, and of course, I’d love to see the backwaters (I’m open to all possible tips—I don’t want to sleep on a houseboat). My question is:
Is it doable to spend a good half-day in the backwaters while staying at Marari Beach?
I was in Delhi for work and decided to leave my suitcase there so I could enjoy the rest of my vacation in Southeast Asia.
However, my flight from Bangkok to Delhi, scheduled for tomorrow (Sunday, October 5th), was rescheduled, and I’ll miss my connection to Paris.
When I looked at flights, I realized that the Bangkok-Paris flight costs half as much as the new Bangkok-Delhi flight (with a different airline).
So here’s my question (a shot in the dark):
Is anyone traveling between Delhi and Paris in the next few days? Would it be possible to pick up my suitcase in Delhi’s hold (I’ll pay the extra fee) and bring it to Paris?
I thought about having it shipped, but I need it fairly quickly, and I don’t trust the delivery times. Plus, the costs are outrageous.
Hi, as an NRI with a European passport and OCI, can I get a credit card or debit card that offers services and benefits?
What are all the requirements, please?
Thanks for your reply, best regards
Hello everyone,
We’re a couple heading off in mid-October for 7 weeks to explore Rajasthan independently, with an extension to Varanasi.
We’re growing more skeptical about Booking.com reviews and would rather turn to fellow travelers for up-to-date recommendations on accommodations along our route. We’re looking for clean places—not necessarily luxurious—a good location preferably, and if there’s a special charm or character, even better. Budget-wise, up to 50 €, or more if needed. We’ve already gathered a few addresses from Solene and Aleph’s travel journals.
Here are our stops—we’ve already got a place for the starred cities but are still open to suggestions:
Delhi Airport*
Alwar
Bharatpur*
Mathura
Agra*
Dholpur
Karauli
Dausa*
Jaipur*
Bundi*
Kota
Udaipur*
Pushkar
Jodhpur
Barmer
Jaisalmer
Phalodi
Bikaner
Nawalgarh*
Varanasi
Central Delhi
Thanks for sharing your tips and favorites!
Hello everyone!
What a pleasure to be back on this forum after all these years… Goodness, we’re clearly far from the days of backpacking solo and carefree! Today, I’m well and truly "tied down," with two adorable little anchors—ages 3 and 5½—keeping me on my toes 😊
But here we are, finally mustering the courage to dive back into adventure, backpacks and all… this time as a family!
We know traveling with young kids won’t be a walk in the park, but we’re ready to adapt. And for that, I’ll need your brilliant advice!
Here’s our plan:
We’ve got our tickets for Kochi, from December 28 to January 5, 2026.
From my research, I’ve seen that this period is super lively in Kochi, with lots of festivities. I’ve also read that despite the crowds, it’s generally pretty "kids-friendly." Can any of you confirm this?
I figure it’d be a shame to miss all the fun, especially if there are parades (with or without elephants… even if I’m not a fan of the concept, I know my kids would be amazed…).
As for the itinerary, I’m still a bit unsure.
Since New Year’s Eve falls right in the middle of our trip, it complicates the idea of doing a loop around Kerala. Here’s what I’m considering so far:
December 28: Arrival in Kochi, then we’d head straight to Marari Beach (or a similar beach) to settle in and let the kids get their bearings.
December 30: Houseboat cruise in Alleppey
December 31: Back to Kochi, to enjoy the New Year’s festivities
We’d stay in Kochi until January 1 or 2, then head to Munroe Island for a few more relaxing days before heading home
January 5: Flight back to France
My big question: Is spending New Year’s Eve in Kochi with kids a good idea?
Or should we arrive, then leave the city quickly to avoid the crowds?
Thanks in advance for your feedback, experiences, and tips. I’m all ears for any suggestions to make this first (real) family trip as smooth as possible 😊
Hello,
We recently went to Rajasthan.
For the duration, I’d recommend about 3 weeks if you can, so you can explore the region at a relaxed pace.
We also wanted to experience "the real Indian life," and our driver showed us small markets, little temples, and his village near Ranakpur in the Marwar region.
For your info, here are some hotels where we stayed—there’s a huge hotel scene in Rajasthan. No need to book in advance; day by day works really well. You arrive, visit, and if you don’t like it, you just move on—it’s no problem in India. No upfront payment, and you can even negotiate on the spot with this approach, which gives you flexibility with your itinerary.
Here are some hotels we stayed at:
Madhuban in Jaipur (Haveli house) and also in Jaipur, the Khandela Haveli, which we preferred
In Jodhpur, the Kuchaman Haveli
In Ranakpur (Ranakpur Hill Resort) with a great pool
Bikaner: Hotel Laxmi Niwas
Udaipur: Hotel Savroopvilas
Jaisalmer: Hotel Rang Mahal
Here’s the itinerary we followed over nearly three weeks:
1 - When we arrived in Delhi, we headed straight north to Nawalgarh and Mandawa (towns with Havelis = painted houses). Along the way, we stopped in Jhunjhunu to see the Rani Sati Temple. We slept in Mandawa (we arrived in the evening and explored the next morning).
2 - Then we drove to Bikaner (Junagarh Fort, but if you have to choose, the forts in Jodhpur and Jaipur are more interesting in our opinion). After that, we took the road to Deshnoke (temple with sacred rats) and before that, we saw a small temple on the way with white rats. In Deshnoke, the rats move freely among people. We’re not too squeamish, so it was fine. Anyway, it was interesting to see.
3 - Next, we headed to Pushkar, where we took a camel ride (you have to negotiate the price; it varies depending on the camel’s quality, the saddle, and its decoration). One to two hours is more than enough. There’s always someone riding with you on the camel (at least that’s how it was for us). There are also things to see along the way.
4 - From Pushkar, we went to Jodhpur (Mehrangarh Fort, Clock Tower, Jaswant Thada). From Jodhpur, we visited villages (including our driver’s village, which was ideal for connecting with locals, having tea, and exploring the village with part of the community tagging along—I think we went into almost every house). We also did a train safari in the hills. Then Ranakpur (splendid Jain temple, Adinath Temple). With a bit of luck, you might spot Raikas, nomadic herders. Then Kumbhalgarh Fort, and after that, Udaipur. Along the way, we spent the night in a very small town called Jojawar at the Rawla Jojawar hotel, owned by the former Maharaja. A wonderful memory.
5 - In Udaipur (City Palace; Monsoon Palace = depends on the weather—if it’s not clear, you won’t see much, but if it is, the view is stunning).
6 - On the way to Jaipur: Sas-Bahu Temple; then in Jaipur: City Palace, Jantar Mantar, Hawa Mahal (Palace of the Winds), the Hanuman Temple, etc.
7 - Heading toward Agra, the Galta Valley with lots of monkeys. We finished with Fatehpur Sikri and then Agra. Agra is *very* touristy, so people are less friendly and can be pushy about selling things or offering their services as guides. You have to stay polite but firm and not let them sweet-talk you. Hotels are also pricier and there’s not always much choice. For the Taj Mahal (closed on Fridays), go very early in the morning when it opens. It’s best to arrive the evening before and spend the night at a hotel before visiting. Inside the Taj Mahal site, it’s already calmer. After that, we visited Akbar’s mausoleum (in Sikandra, near Agra) and the so-called "Baby Taj" (in Agra). For the Taj, I’ve heard they’re doing renovations, but it’s still a must-see.
8 - In Delhi, if you still have time, check out the Jama Masjid mosque and Mahatma Gandhi’s tomb. Also see Humayun’s Mausoleum (in the Nizamuddin East neighborhood).
In Jaisalmer (spend a night in the dunes after a camel ride), Chittorgarh, Bundi, Ranthambore Park, Orchha, and Khajuraho. Actually, you’ll have to make choices, or you’ll spend your whole vacation traveling. The average driving speed is about 50–60 km/h.
Our other trips in India: Gujarat (we love it and have been twice), Himachal Pradesh, Punjab, and also Haridwar and Varanasi. In the south, Kerala, Tamil Nadu, and Karnataka.
In some cities, we visited with a local guide (about two hours), and some spoke French or English.
One last thing that comes to mind: if you go to Jaisalmer, check out Gadi Sagar Lake. Also worth seeing: the Demoiselle Cranes in Kichan, not far from Jodhpur. These are thousands of common cranes that migrate near the region’s lakes during the winter months. A beautiful ornithological spectacle. And Kichan or Keechan.
Happy trip planning!
Jean
Some of you have mentioned missing the activity on this Indian "page," so let’s try to liven things up a bit—with joy and good vibes (mandatory with me 😜). Plus, it’ll make Jojoone happy 😊.
As big lovers of India—we’ve been six times—my co-traveler husband and I decided to explore Rajasthan this time around. The reason we waited so long to come here? We were dreading the tourist crowds in this state. But thanks to the timing (late March to early April 2024, which is starting to get pretty hot) and Aleph’s great tips, we were *very* far from mass tourism.
We spent three weeks getting around on our own for transport: mostly taxis and trains.
And I’ll admit, we had a rather "Arabian Nights" experience, far from the "real" India (Marien, if you’re reading this 😉). So this travel journal makes no claims other than to share what we saw, experienced, and felt—with all our ignorance about this country (which I’m fully aware of).
But fair warning: I go overboard with emojis, and this journal is super casual because it’s the one I share, almost in "live" mode, with our loved ones.
So, if you’re here, consider yourself almost part of the family 😄.
We’ve got a little game for you (okay, it’s not a walk in the park—you’ll have to do some digging!) with DirecTravel: the prize is 5 nights for one person at the Nilaya Experience guesthouse, right in the heart of Kerala, India.
The stay is worth 700 €. It’s set in a magical spot among the rice fields, offering a relaxing and 100% authentic getaway, far from the noise, hosted by Raghu and Véronique.
How to enter is simple:
1- Head over to directravel.org.
2- Browse the site to find the answers to the 10 contest questions. Click here for the questions.
Each question includes a clue to guide you to the right page.
3- Answer all 10 questions correctly to validate your entry.
Contest Rules
The game is free and with no purchase necessary.
A random draw will be held on September 19, 2025, among all correct entries.
The winner will be contacted directly by DIRECTRAVEL.
The prize is non-transferable, non-exchangeable, and valid based on the accommodation’s availability.
Hello everyone.
It's to greet all the old-timers here with whom I had so many interactions when I used to visit this platform regularly and eagerly before it was shut down, much to our dismay.
I was a member under the name "Jaydev," but it seems I can't log in with that name anymore. Maybe I deleted the username, thinking VoyageForum wouldn't come back.
I'm so happy to be able to log in here again. Talking about Indian things—and in the language I love—lets me practice and chat with people who love the land where I was born.
From a visitor's perspective, I find it really interesting to interact with the local population. That's what gives meaning to the word "travel." Without it, traveling is essentially just "getting from one place to another."
This is a warning message! I’d like to address it especially to young women traveling alone for the first time in India. Other travelers may react to my post based on their own experiences, but I think what I’m about to say shouldn’t be taken lightly—unless that’s what you’re looking for!
Last July, I traveled to Northern India. I stopped in Khajuraho to see the famous tantric temples. I stayed one night, and that was more than enough. Khajuraho is very touristy, but you should know that 80% of young Indian men there are "gigolos." Locals call these young men (aged 18 to 30) "playboys" or "Lapka" (which means "capture the woman" in Hindi)!!!
They approach tourists with kindness and politeness, offering tea or a motorcycle ride (which they’ve often gotten from generous Western female tourists) to waterfalls a few kilometers from Khajuraho or other tourist sites. After befriending you, they charm you—be careful, these are professionals who are very skilled at this; it’s all they do, and they do it well. They’ll offer you food, drinks, and even temple entry to confuse you. They’ll suggest spending the evening or even the night with them. **Refuse (unless you’re into local flings and that’s why you came)!!!!**
At first, you’ll be seduced by their generosity, let your guard down, and then they’ll make you believe in *true love*. They won’t leave you alone and will keep in touch via email or phone if you give them your details. The lines they use to soften you up and scam you include: *"I’m the only one taking care of my family, my brother is sick, I don’t know what to do..."* All of this is to manipulate you into offering them money. They’ll never ask for it outright (to avoid being exposed) but will wait for you to suggest it.
If you receive emails from them, they’ll never be signed, and their name won’t appear in the email address (to avoid leaving traces). They use fake names to avoid being reported. If you believe their sob stories and offer help, they’ll give you a bank account number to send money via Western Union. These young men make a living from this—selling their bodies and scamming people! They’re very skilled, charming, manipulative, and *big-time cheaters*!
(Especially one young man who goes by the alias *Tony*—apparently the most skilled. He lives in a hotel near the lake, *Krishna Cottage*, and is in regular contact via Skype with Western women he’s tricked into believing he loves them while shamelessly scamming them. He even opened an internet café on the roof of the hotel with money he stole from women who fell for his charm.)
So, young romantic women craving love, sensitive singles, or anyone emotionally vulnerable—**don’t let yourself be scammed!!!** This behavior is becoming more common in India and is still relatively unknown. Male prostitution is on the rise, and cases of romantic scams and financial fraud by gigolos are increasing.
Like every time I travel to India, I get an Indian phone line to have phone access and 4G at a ridiculously low cost compared to what my French operator charges me.
Unfortunately, this year, my online purchases (transport bookings on Cleartrip or IRCTC...) aren't going through because my bank requires SMS verification on my French line, which I don’t have ;((
Before, I had the option to receive the verification code by email, but not anymore. My bank isn’t responding to my requests to update my phone number...
So now, I’m stuck. I tried opening a Paytm account since PayPal doesn’t work in India, but again, I need to verify my card with an SMS code...
I also tried funding my Paytm account via a PayPal transfer, but apparently, that’s not possible.
Does anyone have a solution to my problem?
Hi everyone,
For traveling in Rajasthan by train and bus, could you give me some info: where to buy tickets, cost, purchase locations, websites, etc.?
Any tips you have would be super helpful.
Thanks
Hi everyone,
Your thoughts on SIM cards and eSIMs for Rajasthan?
I have a Free mobile plan for 19.99 € that includes internet but not calls.
Can I use WhatsApp to contact people in France without extra charges?
Or should I buy a local SIM?
What about eSIMs?
Your opinions, recommendations, warnings... Thanks
Hi there! 🙂
Please, how can I get from:
- PATNEM to GOKARNA
- GOKARNA to UDUPI (or UDIPI)
- UDUPI to MANGALORE
- MANGALORE to KANNUR
What are the different transport options, the price (if possible, otherwise no worries), and the approximate travel time 😉
Thanks so much to those who take the time to reply!
Have a wonderful day!
Sandra
My train to Mathura is at 2 PM, and we’ll arrive an hour late—all good. I booked a hotel on booking, but unfortunately, it’s really far from the ghats. Walking there is out of the question—what a shame.
The hotel itself is fine, and there are several restaurants right across the street, which will be handy for dinner. This won’t be an exception, though—starting at 10 PM, they must wake up because I can hear them talking loudly, and music is playing along. My room faces the entrance, so it’s going to be tough. At midnight, I ask them to lower the volume, but they don’t listen. By 1 AM, I lose my temper, and this time, everything stops. Finally, I can get some sleep—until 4 AM, when they start up again for a little while before quiet returns until 6 AM. But when do they sleep? The noise never seems to bother them—it’s unbelievable, and I’m finding it harder and harder to tolerate. It makes a huge difference.
The next morning, as I leave, they tell me they’ll give me another room for the following night. Oh, two nights like that wouldn’t be possible—I’m exhausted.
I head out to explore the ghats and take a rickshaw, which I share with a family, to Vrindavan, a city of temples dedicated to Krishna. I visit several while wandering through the lively streets, surrounded by a crowd of devotees. By 1 PM, I’m near the Bankey Bihari Temple, but I can’t go in—it just closed. Nearby, there are restaurants, so I take the opportunity to grab my usual aloo paratha with a lassi.
The work women do here is incredibly hard, and their pay must be miserable.
I want to leave Vrindavan for Govardhan.
Two young guys on a motorcycle in front of the temple approach me, and the driver offers to take me part of the way. I’m pretty skeptical, but he insists, and I eventually agree. I didn’t fully understand what was happening. Once on the bike, his friend hops on too, and suddenly I’m sandwiched between them for a multi-kilometer ride—*travel Indian-style*. We quickly drop off the friend, and I breathe easier for the rest of the trip. At an intersection, he stops—Govardhan is straight ahead, but to get to his village, he needs to turn right. We wait for the bus for a few minutes, and he flags it down so I can hop on and continue my journey. What an adventure.
Here’s a little recap of our 3-week trip to India (retired couple) in January 2024. This is our personal experience and how we felt at the time.
This is the 7th time we’ve been to India, and after experiencing public transport day and night—and with age catching up—we opted for a more "chill" pace this time, prioritizing flights and taxis while slightly increasing our accommodation budget.
Regarding that accommodation budget (double room), we chose a range between 30 and 40 €, and we didn’t really notice much difference compared to the lower range we used to book on previous trips (between 20 and 30 €). But prices have likely gone up since my last visit in 2018.
So here are some personal tips and opinions, good addresses, and others to avoid.
Exchange rate: In January 2024, 100 rupees were worth about 1.12 euros (1 euro = 89 INR at exchange bureaus). To convert rupees to euros: X rupees divided by 89 = X euros. For simplicity, we divided the price in rupees by 100 and added about 10% to get the equivalent in euros.
Our itinerary: Mumbai/Aurangabad (Ellora and Ajanta) / Badami / Hampi / Goa (Agonda) / Mumbai
Flight: With British Airways—very (too) short layover in London (2 hours in theory...) for the connection to Mumbai, but a 1-hour delay on the flight from CDG, so we had to rush in London with two shuttles to take and security to clear before reaching the departure gate. We had a 15-minute margin by speeding... same stress on the way back...
Mumbai: On the day we arrived in Mumbai, we took a flight to Aurangabad with Indigo. **Note:** Terminal change for this flight. Free buses connect T2 to T1. The flight was fine, even with a 2-hour delay...
Aurangabad:
Accommodation: Hotel JP International (35 €/night): Large, "decorated" room with comfortable bedding. But the hotel is showing its age. The air conditioning is a bit noisy, and the faucets and shower have seen better days...
Breakfast is included in the price with a buffet—it’s decent. You just have to ask for toast, jam, and eggs, as it’s mostly an Indian buffet... The rooftop restaurant is okay. The hotel is a bit pricey for what it is...
The owner, a bit gruff at first, was helpful and assisted us with taxis for visiting the Ellora and Ajanta sites, as it’s hard to find taxis for those trips on the street—no travel agencies in this area.
Restaurant: Le Great Sagar (on the main street): Close to the hotel, good food, and plenty of choices.
Exchange: We struggled to exchange euros in Aurangabad. No banks exchange money (we tried five...). Only Thomas Cook does: Jalna Road near the Ramgiri Hotel.
Ellora: A magnificent site 25 km from Aurangabad. **Tip:** Arrive early (by 9 AM max) and visit the Kailasha Temple first—it’s the world’s largest monolithic structure—and it gets much busier later.
Ajanta: About a 2-hour drive.
**Great tip for this visit:** Ask your taxi to drop you off at the Ajanta View Point. Not only do you get a beautiful overview of the cliff and caves, but you can also walk down gently to the site. The descent is easy with stairs and paths, and you approach the site with stunning views. Cross the bridge, and you’re there (start from the end, as it’s less crowded: after crossing the bridge and paying at the ticket counter, turn left and go to the far end to begin your visit). The taxi waited for us at the "official" entrance after we finished exploring the caves.
Badami:
To get to Badami, we took an early-morning flight from Aurangabad to Hubli with Indigo (scheduled takeoff at 6:20 AM...) to arrive in Hubli in the early afternoon and find a taxi to Badami.
We found a taxi quickly at Hubli Airport. About 2.5 hours (3,400 INR).
Hotel: KSTDC Hotel Mayura Chalukya (38 €/night): A state-run hotel that’s a bit dated, located 15 minutes from the center but quiet compared to the chaotic main street in Badami. Large room, a bit dark, slightly worn walls, rustic bathroom... The air conditioning is very noisy. The owner was very friendly and helped with transport. The staff was also very nice. The hotel restaurant is decent, which saves you from going back "into town." A bit pricey for the quality, but it’s peaceful...
The visit to the sculpted caves is worth it, as is a walk around the lake. The short climb to the top of the hill from the museum is also worth it—you pass through small gorges. A relaxing atmosphere in these places.
Hampi:
Trip from Badami to Hampi by taxi (3,500 INR) – 3 hours. Booked through the Badami hotel, as we couldn’t find taxis on the street or at reasonable prices...
Accommodation: Thilak Home Stay (33 €/night): Located in Hampi Bazaar, a small guesthouse with 4 rooms. Simple room with two single beds and a nightstand. The owner was very helpful, making our stay easier with services like tuk-tuks for sightseeing, laundry, bus booking to Goa, and a tuk-tuk to Hospet.
A bit pricey for the room quality, but recommended for the owner’s kindness.
It was hard to find accommodation in Hampi Bazaar through booking platforms, as they all offer places outside the city, several kilometers away—which is a shame. But we realized you can find places directly on-site. **You must stay in Hampi Bazaar**—the atmosphere changes from morning to night (in the evening, around 9 PM, go into the courtyard of the main temple in Hampi Bazaar, which turns into a huge dormitory—it’s impressive...).
Restaurant: Archana Roof Restaurant: Small restaurant on the 1st floor overlooking a banana field with the Hampi rocks in the background. Very friendly welcome, quiet, and excellent thalis.
The Hampi site is in a magical natural setting among temples, pilgrims, ochre rocks, and rice fields. We did a one-day circuit with a tuk-tuk to visit the main sites (1,500 INR).
We also rented a scooter on the other side of the river (to avoid a long detour from Hampi Bazaar) for a day trip around the area. Some places we visited: Anegondi village, Durga Temple, Hanuman Temple (go early—it’s a climb...), Sanapur Lake.
The accommodations on the other side of the river, called "Hippie Island," have been completely destroyed.
Goa (Agonda Beach): Trip from Hampi to Agonda: Booked a sleeper bus with two beds! (1,300 INR/person). Departure at 9 PM from Hospet, theoretical arrival at 4 AM (for us, it was 6 AM) in Canacona, then a 20-minute tuk-tuk ride to Agonda. Comfortable bus with real berths, but the many speed bumps made sleep difficult... The train would have been much longer and more complicated to reach Agonda.
Agonda:
Accommodation: New Common Home (35 €/night): Business-like welcome. Decent and fairly large room, rustic bathroom. Breakfast included in the price—it was okay.
We only booked one night to choose accommodation afterward, right on the beach.
But we didn’t account for the Indian national holiday at the end of the week—everything was fully booked... We found Saxony (44 €/night) at the far end of the beach (left when facing the sea), but only for 2 nights—after that, it was reserved... Decent room, average bathroom, but a beautiful terrace facing the sea.
Then 2 nights at Agonda Holiday Home Stay (36 €/night), not on the beach: Very average, bathroom in poor condition, almost no view—but it was all that was left...
Restaurant: The Rhino for dinner (not on the beach): Excellent tandoori, chicken tikka, and masala. Great value for money. Cool and friendly atmosphere.
Agonda is a beautiful, long, quiet, and family-friendly beach for relaxing, with lovely walks to take. Beautiful sunset!
Mumbai: Trip from Agonda to Mumbai: Flight: We chose Vistara because the departure was in the late afternoon, while Indigo offered flights very early or very late.
Bad choice... because this Vistara flight leaves from Mopa Airport, at the very north of Goa state. And from Agonda, it’s a 3-hour taxi ride... (3,700 INR...) **Always check which airport your flight leaves from to reach Mumbai!**
Mumbai:
Accommodation: Broadway Hotel Bombay (39 €/night):
Very well-located hotel in Colaba, on a street perpendicular to the busy main road. Ask for quiet rooms... Friendly, helpful, and accommodating staff. Very small room with a tiny window and little space to put bags or move around... Small but clean bathroom. Mumbai is expensive for accommodation, and cleanliness often leaves something to be desired...
Restaurant: Delhi Darbar, very close to the hotel on the main street. Good, clean, not too noisy... and good value for money.
Sightseeing: Mumbai is a bustling city, but the traffic is completely chaotic, and the horn often replaces the brake... The architecture is quite unique and worth a look, with some must-see visits:
Crawford Market and its surroundings... Null Bazar and Chor Bazar, where poverty and dirt are quite present...
Mani Bhavan: Gandhi’s house in Mumbai, with a very special atmosphere...
Balbunath Temple, with its religious fervor.
The beautiful Jain temple (Walkeshwar Mandir), where the atmosphere is very different from other temples and full of serenity.
The Dhobi Ghats, the laundry district—very impressive. For a few hundred rupees, a "guide" will take you through these washhouses and thousands of clothes.
Banganga Tank: A basin surrounded by ghats with a village-like (but quite poor) atmosphere, where Indians come to pray.
The dabbawallahs: Their departure around 11 AM and the transport by bicycle of hundreds of lunchboxes from Churchgate Station. **Note:** It’s not easy to find them—we almost missed them, as it seems to be disappearing. They’re on the other side of the road where taxis usually drop you off for Churchgate Station, under some trees. They’re recognizable by their white attire and a crowd. Few passersby seemed to know about them...
All these visits can be done easily by taking taxis, which are really cheap—**as long as they agree to use the meter.**
So here are some great tips to share, knowing that every trip is unique, and India remains a magnificent, often disconcerting, elusive country that challenges you. It’s unlike any other country we’ve visited but so fascinating...
Good luck with your preparations, and if you need more info, don’t hesitate!
I really regret that the new 2024/2025 South India GDR only includes Mumbai for Maharashtra and nothing else... and nothing on Karnataka or Goa. These states don’t seem to be selling points for the GDR anymore...
Guy
Hi there.
My one-month trip is evolving, and I’m figuring out how to spend 15 days in Rajasthan, then head to Goa for 5 days, and do a circuit up to Mumbai—all within a month.
What do you think of Goa and the central-east region?
I’m planning my next trip to India, and my first stop will be the city of Nashik.
I’d like to stay there for 3 nights, maybe even 4, to really soak up the atmosphere.
Could anyone recommend where to stay and also suggest some good hotels at reasonable prices?
Valérie (Alexval2) convinced me to publish this travel journal about our trip to Rajasthan, so here I go, sharing what will be my first travel journal! 🙂
But first, why India? This question has already been discussed on the forum. For me, I had these idealized images in mind: maharajahs, palaces, elephants, and friends who gave me glowing reviews. We’ve already been to Asia and wanted to do something different. We weren’t disappointed.
So, after spending what felt like hundreds of hours 😛 researching forums, blogs, and various guides, the Rajasthan region stood out as the perfect choice for a first discovery.
We managed to plan this itinerary, which is quite classic but structured around a must-see: the Pushkar Camel Fair. I’d read reviews and watched videos about it, all very enticing. We’ll see later how it turned out.
As usual, I had everything booked in advance because I don’t like wasting time looking for solutions once we’re there.
Our Air France flight arrived on time at 11:15 PM. We’d read the recommendations, and after collecting our luggage, we headed to the prepaid taxi booth. We got the receipt, and two charming guys took our suitcases to the taxi. When we arrived at the taxi, they asked for 500 INR for the porter service. Of course, I resisted, and with the driver’s help, we settled on 200 INR. Welcome to India.
We agreed with the friendly driver that he’d pick us up from the hotel (Ibis, great breakfast) for our flight to Jaisalmer. It was 2 AM, we collapsed into bed, but the night was short since we had to wake up at 5 AM.
My partner and I are planning a 2-week trip to Goa from late September to early October. It’s sandwiched between a trip to Nepal (September) and our return home to Thailand. We can’t stay longer, but cutting it shorter wouldn’t be worth the effort or flight costs.
I’ve visited several regions of India in the past (between 2000 and 2020) and spent a total of about 4 months there. My only time in Goa was a few days in Palolem in 2007—I didn’t like it. I found the place almost sordid with all the crowds... not at all the India I love.
But I have an Indian friend with 2 or 3 apartments in a residence in North Goa who keeps telling me to visit. I’m tempted. But where should we go? I don’t want to rent from him because it’s expensive (high-end) and I don’t want to feel too dependent on him either.
After 2 days in Panaji (since it’s near GOI), I’ve booked 5 days in Mandrem, which I’ve heard great things about. This’ll let us explore the Arambol area. I’m hesitant to stay there longer—if we don’t like it or get bored after a few days, spending the full 2 weeks there isn’t ideal! I’m thinking of trying South Goa instead, somewhere between Benaulim and Agonda. The downside? All the rumors about the vibe in different spots—loud techno here, jet skis there, "paunchy English tourists" elsewhere, package tours everywhere... not to mention the expected influx of Russians and/or Israelis (I’ve seen this in other parts of India, Thailand, and Vietnam). Plus, accommodation options are way more limited in the south.
Basically, I’m leaning toward Agonda—relaxed but not too quiet or isolated. But there’s so little availability on sites like Booking and Agoda...
Any recent tips or advice from folks who’ve been to Goa lately? I’d really appreciate it, thanks in advance!
