East and Southern Africa · Namibia

Hi there, Could anyone give me some info about the international driver's permit in Namibia? Is it mandatory to rent a 4x4 with or without a roof tent, or is an English translation of my French license enough to get around the whole country? Thanks in advance for your replies!

Hello, what’s the best road map? How reliable are GPS devices, and what downloads do you recommend before departure in case Wi-Fi isn’t available?

Hi there, I’m finalizing the itinerary for my trip to Namibia in October and would love to get it validated by you, the experts. I’ll be traveling by 4x4 with a rooftop tent.

Here’s the itinerary:

Day 1: Arrival in Windhoek Night in REHOBOTH or nearby

Day 2: Rehoboth to Stampriet

Day 3: Road to Sesriem

Day 4: Head to Sossusvlei/Sesriem Canyon

Day 5: Road to Walvis Bay

Day 6: Day in Walvis Bay

Day 7: Head to Spitzkoppe

Day 8: Direction Cape Cross then Brandberg

Day 9: Brandberg, Twyfelfontein, Palmwag

Day 10: Palmwag

Day 11: Head to Etosha Day 12: Etosha

Day 13: Head to Waterberg after morning safari

Day 14: Full day at Waterberg

Day 15: Return to Windhoek for flight at 8:30 PM

What do you think? I’m open to all suggestions!

Thanks

Hi everyone. I’m heading to Namibia in October and slowly planning my trip. I’ll be spending 2.5 days in the park and was wondering how to organize things to get the most out of Etosha. Routes, wildlife spots, campsites... knowing I’ll be in a 4x4 with a rooftop tent. Thanks in advance for your great tips!

Hi there, I’m planning a trip with my three teens in a 4x4 with rooftop tents in July 2025 and would love your thoughts on my itinerary (still a draft). Day 1: Windhoek Day 2: Keetmanshoop Day 3-5: Fish River Canyon Day 6: FRC stop in Mariental Day 7: Mariental to Sesriem Day 8-10: Sesriem, then depart for Swakopmund Day 11-12: Swakopmund Day 13-14: Spitzkoppe Day 15-16: Twyfelfontein Day 17: Stop in Outjo Day 18-20: Etosha Day 21: Waterberg Day 22: Waterberg to Windhoek Day 23: Afternoon flight

Thanks so much for your help! Anne Claire

Hello, we’re starting this discussion to share our project and get a little help.

We’re French and passionate about Southern Africa. For over twenty years, we’ve taken several trips to South Africa, Botswana, Namibia, Zimbabwe, Mozambique, and Zambia, always traveling independently and on the move. In 2009, we took a sabbatical and spent eight months in Southern Africa. To do this, we bought a vehicle in South Africa, with the help of a Frenchman living there who guided us through the registration and insurance process. Unfortunately, he has since passed away.

Now, we’d like to spend several months a year in Southern Africa, mainly in Botswana, South Africa, and Namibia, but also in Zambia and Zimbabwe.

We’d like to buy a 4x4, either already equipped or to be outfitted, but we’re not sure where it’s best to buy it: South Africa, Namibia, or Botswana?

We’re looking for someone who can help us with the registration and insurance process (we’re not bilingual, on top of everything!). Do you have any contacts you could recommend? We’d appreciate any information or recommendations to help us with our project.

We’re also looking for a rental or guesthouse in Johannesburg for November 2025, run by French speakers or people who speak French.

Once we’re there, the question of the 90-day tourist visa will come up. Apparently, it’s no longer possible to leave the territory for a few days and re-enter. We’re considering applying for a Retired Person Visa. However, the process from France seems complicated: no response from the South African embassy in Paris or from Botswana… So, we’re thinking of looking into it directly once we’re there.

Thank you so much for your help. Pedro Lyon (France)

Hi everyone, We're heading out again for a little road trip through South Africa, Botswana, and Namibia. Quick question: we're leaving from Midrand, taking the N14 to Vryburg, then heading toward the McCarthy's Border crossing. After that, we want to reach the Mabuasehube Gate. The question is, how long does it take to get from Midrand to the Mabuasehube Gate? We plan to make one stop near Vryburg to fill up on drinks and snacks. Thanks in advance for your replies, especially if anyone's done this route before! JP M

I'm looking for a local guide to visit a Himba village near Opuwo in a respectful way. There’ll be two of us (my wife and I) with a car starting from Opuwo. If anyone has a contact—or even better, several contacts—for local guides to arrange this visit, thanks a million! Bernard

Hi there, Could you give me an idea of the price for a taxi from Windhoek International Airport to Windhoek for two people? Is it necessary to book in advance, or are there enough taxis available at the airport? Thanks! !

For the kids and/or for us, do you have any good book recommendations for identifying and learning about the animals of Namibia (or Southern Africa)?

Hello to all travel lovers! I'm leaving for several weeks to accompany groups in Namibia (I'm over the moon). It's a country I know because I've already spent three months there. I'll be talking about culture, geography, history... but I'd also like to see my "clients" touched by the wildlife, maybe more specifically the birds. Unfortunately, I'm a lousy ornithologist. :-p So, if you could recommend a book on the world of birds we're about to see, that would be... awesome! For those who are on the same journey as me and to avoid duplicates, here are the ones I've found (but haven't bought yet): - *Compagnon de safari* by Oriol (2003) ?? - *Les oiseaux de l'ouest africain* by Serle and Morel (2005) ?? - *Guide des mammifères d'Afrique* by Kingdom (2013) ?? (No, birds aren't mammals!!) - And then... that's not much 😕 Haven't found anything specific to Namibia. So there you go, thank you all, and I wish you a very happy journey too!

I rarely post on the forum, but I've talked (well... written) a lot. Thanks for your attention! :-)

Nathaniel. (For those interested, I could share the link to photos from my previous trips.)

Beace!

Hi everyone, I’m planning to do the Sesriem–Etosha trip via Windhoek in a single day. I know... it’s really long... I plan to leave early in the morning... before 8 a.m. at any rate... I know the Sesriem–Windhoek stretch via Solitaire is entirely on dirt roads... What do you think? Have a great day

Hi there, we’re planning a trip to Namibia this summer and we’d love to know if it’s possible to get around without our own vehicle? Thanks.

Hello, Namibia in April for 11 days from the 10th to the 21st with 2 adults and 3 (our son from the 16th to the 21st). We’re looking to combine 2 short circuits for this brief stay. Should we book a vehicle and accommodation through an agency?

We’re used to traveling independently, but we’re hesitant about Namibia! Any recommendations for vehicle rental sites? And agencies?

We’re planning two short circuits—partly with accommodation and partly with camping. Thanks for sharing your experience!

We’re flying from Cape Town to Windhoek on the 10th and returning on the 21st or 22nd. Marie

Hi, I'm planning to reach Epupa Falls from Purros via Orupembe D3707 or another route (?) and the Hartmann Valley. Is it possible to get to Epupa from Etambura camp with just one 4x4? Thanks in advance

Hi there, I’m sharing my itinerary for your expert eyes and feedback. Quick question: Is it worth cutting a few nights to visit Epupa Falls? Would it be interesting to stop by Aus before Sesriem? Thanks everyone!

Day 1: Windhoek Day 2: Mariental Day 3: Sesriem Day 4: Sesriem Day 5: Gecko Camp Day 6: Walvis Bay / Swakopmund Day 7: Walvis Bay / Swakopmund Day 8: Spitzkoppe Day 9: Twyfelfontein Day 10: Twyfelfontein Day 11: Grootberg Day 12: Grootberg Day 13: Etosha West Day 14: Etosha West Day 15: Etosha East Day 16: Etosha East Day 17: Weaver’s Rock Guest Farm (CCF & Waterberg, rhinos) Day 18: Weaver’s Rock Guest Farm Day 19: Okonjima Day 20: Windhoek – evening departure

Hello, We’re a couple in our seventies planning a 12-day trip to Namibia this coming September. We have a Visa Premier card. In your opinion, should we take out additional travel insurance like Europ Assistance or Chapka? We don’t want to repeat our bad experience in 2020: we’d taken out insurance with Allianz (over 500 € for 11 days). Our trip to Botswana was canceled due to COVID-19, and they were quick to cite the "epidemic" exclusion to refuse reimbursement. Just to clarify: the flights will be with Lufthansa, departing from Luxembourg. Thanks in advance to anyone who can give us some advice!

Hi everyone, I’m heading to Namibia from March 20 to April 7 (Kalahari, Tok Tokkie Trail, Sossusvlei, Spitzkoppe, Twyfelfontein, and Etosha). I was wondering if the rainy season has started and whether it’s expected to be heavy?

Also, if anyone has traveled there during this period, I’d love to hear about your experience. Thanks in advance!

This three-week trip to Namibia was a big first for us: - Visiting a country in winter, for someone who starts feeling comfortable at 25°C (77°F). - Camping, when we usually feel at home in a starred hotel. - Sleeping on the roof of a car—what an idea... when a comfy bed is waiting just a bit further. - Grocery shopping, cooking, doing the dishes... all the things we usually avoid to fully enjoy our vacation. - Washing up when and how we can, when we can’t imagine going a day without a shower. - Driving a big 4x4 on the left, with a manual transmission, when we usually opt for an automatic for more comfort.

Yep! You guessed it—we stepped way out of our comfort zone during this trip.

I had quite a few doubts while planning this adventure, but the more I read travel journals about Namibia, the more I wanted to go.

Personally, without this forum, I never would’ve dared to hit the Namibian roads in a 4x4. I was really anxious during the planning, so I want to thank everyone who contributed with their journals and forum discussions for helping me leave more peacefully.

At first, I wasn’t even considering sleeping in a tent. But after my husband’s persuasion—and my own curiosity to experience what I’d read in those travel journals—I gave in. So off we went in a double-cab Hilux with a rooftop tent.

And of course, let’s talk about me—the big cold-weather wimp. One of the biggest pre-trip challenges was choosing a sleeping bag. After a while, sleeping bags had no more secrets for me: temperature ratings (comfort, limit, extreme), shapes (mummy, rectangular), fillings (synthetic, down), compression rate, and weight... all these factors were a real puzzle. In the end, to make sure I wouldn’t be put off camping in winter (Australian winter, mind you), I went for a sleeping bag with a comfort rating of -10°C. And just to be *extra* sure I wouldn’t get cold, I bought a liner (never knew what that was before) in Thermolite, which boosts the sleeping bag’s temperature by 11°C. There are liners that add up to 15°C, but let’s not exaggerate—we’re not heading to the North Pole! My husband, on the other hand, got a sleeping bag with a -5°C comfort rating and a silk liner.

Was it enough? You’ll find out soon. In the meantime, another big thank you to everyone who helped me make this choice with their advice and experience.

Over a year in advance, we planned a three-week itinerary for our first trip to Namibia—classic route, nothing too out there. We chose to do the circuit clockwise because we wanted to finish on a high note in Etosha and its wildlife. They say it’s like Noah’s Ark out there! And why not, the cherry on top... some big cats.

We used Tourmaline’s services to book our accommodations and the 4x4.

Here’s our planned itinerary with campsites and lodgings—yes, there are a few solid roofs in there; we didn’t want to push it too far.

Day 1: Windhoek – Windhoek Gardens Guesthouse Day 2: Kalahari Anib Campsite Day 3: Namibrand Family Hideout Day 4: Sesriem Camp Day 5: Sesriem Camp Day 6: Rostock Ritz Camp Day 7: Swakopmund - Sea Breeze Guesthouse Day 8: Swakopmund - Sea Breeze Guesthouse Day 9: Spitzkoppe Camp Tented Day 10: Brandberg White Lady Campsite Day 11: Grootberg Lodge Day 12: Opuwo Country Campsite Day 13: Epupa Camp Day 14: Hobatere Lodge Day 15: Etosha Olifantsrus Camp Day 16: Etosha Okaukuejo Camp Day 17: Etosha Halali Camp Day 18: Etosha Namutoni Camp Day 19: Cheetah Eco Lodge Day 20: Windhoek – Londiningi B&B



Alright! Are you ready to follow this adventure with us in our Hilux?

Hi there,

Here’s a quick summary of six trips across Southern Africa, covering South Africa, Namibia, Botswana, Zimbabwe, and more. I traveled for a total of 23 months, over 100,000 km, and crossed 9 countries from South Africa to Tanzania. To do this, I bought an old Land Cruiser—a 1989 BJ 75 with a long chassis and a 3.4L turbo engine—which I converted into a bush camper set up for self-sufficiency in Africa: dual fuel tanks (235 L total) plus 2 x 20-liter jerry cans of diesel, 2 spare tires, a compressor, a toolbox with repair gear, a 50-liter water tank plus 2 x 30-liter and 2 x 10-liter jerry cans, a roof tent, multiple storage boxes, a sturdy roof rack, and even a paramotor. I also packed a first-aid kit and shipped the camper to South Africa by freight. My son joined me for part of the journey.

Key countries and highlights: South Africa in every direction, including its wildlife parks; in Namibia, the classics like Etosha, Fish River, Sossusvlei, Kaudum, but especially Damaraland and Kaokoland; in Botswana, a full loop of the Okavango, crossing the Makgadikgadi Pan, Moremi Park, the Linyanti River; and a tour of Zimbabwe with its national parks. During the last trip in 2020, due to COVID, we found refuge on a 250 km² Namibian farm with its own wildlife reserve. While crossing Damaraland and Kaokoland, we were completely self-sufficient, with supplies for over a month and 130 L of water.

In South Africa and Namibia, one issue that surprised us was the fences stretching for millions of kilometers along the tracks. Namibia is one and a half times the size of France but has a population of only about 2.5 million, mostly concentrated in a dozen small towns of 10,000 to 50,000 people—except for the capital, Windhoek (296,000). Paradoxically, compared to France, the space for freedom is extremely limited. Everything is private and requires payment. Even the Namib Desert is fenced... and you need a permit just to pick up a rock! For someone used to wild camping, it can get frustrating. Sometimes we ignored the rules, but the best solution is to ask a farmer (a real one, like a sheep or cattle rancher—not the ones with 3-meter electrified fences, which are lodges or private reserves) if you can camp on their land.

To truly enjoy freedom in Namibia, you need to venture into the northwest, along the Skeleton Coast, in Damaraland and Kaokoland. However, it’s essential to know your vehicle inside out, be a good mechanic, bring spare parts, and plan for potential breakdowns. Take care of your ride because a major issue out there can be a matter of survival. My motto: "Don’t break down, don’t break down, don’t break down..." Safari pros only venture into this region with two 4x4s. In Messum Crater, we met a couple waiting for rescue (thanks to a satellite device from their rental company) after their driveshaft broke. Keep in mind that in these areas, you’ll cover about 80 km in 8 hours.

Here are some of the issues we faced: a broken rear suspension leaf, several broken bolts on the front leaf springs, the spare tire mount breaking multiple times (replaced on the spot), a cracked water radiator in 1998 causing overheating and a seized valve stem in its guide, plus a bent rocker arm (field repair, valve adjustment, damaged head gasket, daily radiator refills, and a scratched cylinder—engine fully rebuilt upon return). Five roof rack mounts broke and were repaired at a technical high school in South Africa. The battery mount also broke (fixed with a steel plate found on the trail). The fuel filter clogged several times (changed or cleaned on the spot). A huge impact on the windshield from a piece of coal falling from a power plant supply truck (temporary repair with Araldite). The brake master cylinder failed in Marienfluss (repaired, seals replaced in Tsumeb). Multiple flat tires from acacia thorns. The rear door latch broke (homemade aluminum rod repair in Franschhoek). The voltmeter and ammeter failed (repaired on the spot). During the freight trip, despite locking the doors and having a partition between the front and back, someone managed to get in through the small side window, forced open the locks on two accessible storage boxes, and stole my tools (replaced later). A ball joint on the paramotor frame came loose mid-flight, damaging the wing and propeller (propeller shipped from France, homemade repair).

Health issues on the way to Tanzania: a painful sciatica and many sleepless nights (cortisone injection in Dodoma).

Kaokoland, Namibia—the northwest region: https://youtu.be/DzGepFsrnZs

Damaraland: https://youtu.be/DITQj8NvLZ4

Botswana: https://youtu.be/TEvDG0S62hg

Kaudom and Mohembo Parks: https://youtu.be/wq_Yf7jNLhw

Hi everyone, Could you clarify what type of driving license is required in Namibia? I don’t have enough time to apply for an international driving permit, unfortunately. The processing time is way too long—5 months! From what I’ve heard, a French license with an English translation should be enough? Is that correct, and if so, who needs to certify the translation? Thanks a lot, and have a great day! Frédéric

An 80-Day Tour of Southern Africa

Back in South Africa

January 12, 2013, 5:30 AM, Flight BA043 London-Cape Town

Directly below, Windhoek glittered like a tangle of fairy lights still lit and tossed into a box.

The horizon, edged in purple, was setting up a backup fireworks display, and suddenly, like a cherry on the platter and with unbearable intensity, in less than two minutes the entire sun revealed a gray dam and then a vast, untouched massif.

A few more minutes and the glare to the east of the plane was total. In Africa, the sun is swift.

We still had a France to cross before landing, but it felt as if we were already there. To the west, the raking light revealed what looked like acne and long, swollen scars in a desert region that might be the Swartkloofberg. Further still, straight as far as the eye could see, the two parallel tracks of a dirt road.

At 11,500 meters altitude and 940 km/h, we had a sense of stillness until the Orange River appeared, an incongruous serpent, gray edged with green.

The first South African settlements were dotted with trees providing shade, then rivers highlighted by continuous lines of vegetation.

Water and shade that make life possible.

We’ll return here by the backroads.

Half an hour from Cape Town, the plane tilted toward the sea, crossing plantations (likely citrus) and then an explosion of cultivated greenery in circles on either side of an unruly river. Finally, the coastline was no longer just sand and water—a frothy hem, a suture?

A peninsula came into view, forming two magnificent bays, and... a flight attendant firmly instructed me to return to my seat: we’d arrived!

The Colors of Cape Town

The city was dressed up as I like them—deserted, fluid, free of its vendors.

In the parking lot of the endless beach next to the commercial port north of the city, about two hundred people were unloading their goods in front of their pickups or combis, none of which were from this century: mixed-race, ageless Black people, and white folks who looked like they’d stepped out of another era.

After a few minutes, intrigued, I played a game: first looking at the merchandise, then imagining who was selling it, and finally looking at who was actually manning the stall. Tall Black vendors were selling what they often sell in Europe—leather, sunglasses, watches; mixed-race folks offered discount bundles, and the tanned older white people seemed to have emptied their attics.

We left with an antique tin kettle for morning tea over an open fire, a pack of five exercise books (that’s 600 pages to fill), Bill Bryson’s earliest stories in English, some snoek rillettes (a local fish), and—never seen before—tuna biltong and snoek biltong.

In so-called advanced countries, Sunday is for sports: white cyclists dressed like pros sweating diligently, Black street vendors running in loops at red lights to sell trash bags that day; white golfers losing their balls, which a scantily clad Black man retrieves from the water; under the sails of kite surf boards, it’s all blondes, and in the foam, joyful splashes from a bunch of Black kids.

Searching for an unusual spot for lunch, we drove through the fishing port looking for a dive and, at the end of a dead-end road with no warning, we arrived at the Shimmy Beach Club—quite the program.

The place, open for just three weeks, aims to be ultra-trendy. You could be in San Francisco, Lisbon’s docks, or St. Barth. This time, the "visible" staff was diverse, but the clientele was exclusively white, except for one mixed-race couple.

For this Sunday lunch, the women had pulled out all the stops, and local starlets—who’d make ours look tame—were turning the terrace into a frenzy.

At Cape Town’s port, the girls have *port*. The trend seems to be crochet dresses over swimsuits.

For two hours, a team of employees watered and raked the sand, starting over when they finished. A child in a floaty pink dress and a gold headband, but a future adventurer, stepped onto the freshly raked artificial beach sand for the first time.

A lanky mixed-race man dragged a hose across the ground, followed by a white woman—enchanted?—who then started watering the sand herself, carelessly splashing the glass terrace her colleague had just swept. I suspect a tacit work arrangement to keep everyone employed.

A galleon packed with tourists (are there any in the hold? Does it take tourists to Robben Island?) left the port. A helicopter took off in its wake. Trawlers returned, cutting through a ballet of catamarans, their waterlines well above the water: a bad catch.

If there’s one country where you can’t pretend to ignore skin color, it’s this one. The question is in everyone’s mind, and here more than anywhere else, it’s a decisive economic and political factor.

Columbine of Brittany

200 km north of Cape Town and 9,000 km south of the Breton coast, but on the same cold ocean, we camped on the shore of the Columbine Cape Nature Reserve, sheltered by a rocky chaos that, at first light tomorrow, would transport us to Perros-Guirec.

Our first encounter with wild animals wouldn’t end well for them: it was crayfish season, and they were the size of lobsters at Lorient’s fish market. Bought for R60 (5.5 €) a pair from kids in Pater Noster, they’d end up between two rocks, over a fire. But first, we had to pair the Chenin blanc with some snoek biltong.

With no wood, I lit a fire at dawn with dried seaweed and kelp, as if petrified; it gave off a smell of court-bouillon and... tires. Two hundred fathoms away, on an outpost, an army of cormorants stood at attention, unmoved among the frolicking seals.

At the reserve’s exit, the guard spoke French; Patrick Mwanba had arrived from Congo three years earlier to study, but the cost of living here forced him to drop out. He’d like to return home because life is cheaper there, but the war made him hesitate.

Ding ding dong! Vroom! Arf arf, Woof! Buzz! (A night from hell!)

I’d long planned to visit Calvinia, the center of a region known for extensive sheep farming. An excellent provincial museum, run by an enthusiastic curator, kept us too late to start the drive north.

So we camped in a tiny, charming campsite set up in the garden of a house. A few trees, a patch of resilient grass, and a view of a pretty lit-up steeple—what else?

Well, it turned out to be a sound-and-light show, with the pretty steeple chiming the hours and half-hours. Then suddenly, we were in the VIP stands of the Karoo-Kalahari Truck Race: roaring trucks paraded under our canvas windows, and we realized we were on the main road through town. To top it off, we enjoyed an uninterrupted canine cacophony, from the *arf arf* of little dogs to the *woof* of a mastiff. Oh, and some mosquitoes—the first ones—insisted on keeping us company in the tent, and we hadn’t yet bought the arsenal to neutralize them.

I walked through Calvinia at night; the house gardens weren’t fenced, nor did they have the «Armed Response» signs so common in the country.

The Kalahari Trails

(No, no, I haven’t converted to hiking.)

North of Calvinia, in the south of the Northern Cape, small towns follow one another up to Upington, about a hundred kilometers apart—welcome havens. Between them, with no trees in sight, we stopped in the shade of a motionless cloud: the temperature exceeded 40°C in mid-January.

We were almost out of the High Karoo and into a region of pans drying up, until the first red dunes appeared, precursors of the Kalahari. In the sparse veld vegetation, gatherings of quiver trees in the kopjes, and a caravan of camels without a handler or packs, marching in perfect formation across a pan (no, I hadn’t overdone the Windhoek at the last stop, and no, I wasn’t dehydrated enough to hallucinate).

The historic part of these towns, European in style, was built on the same plans as those in the American Midwest or the Australian Outback: a grid of streets wide enough to turn a wagon pulled by eight pairs of oxen. The architecture was Dutch-inspired, tropicalized with awnings.

Then came more recent housing, functional in style, where the wealthier mixed-race people—who make up the majority of this state—lived, and further on, the township, an assemblage of corrugated iron and plastic, like everywhere else.

Orange, Right Bank

North of Augrabies Falls National Park, on the other side of the Orange River, stretches a rugged and wild territory the size of fifty Groix islands, crisscrossed by a few tracks—the Riemvasmaak.

The inhabitants were driven out half a century ago for a military base, and as soon as President Mandela was elected, he made it a symbol by allowing the exiled populations to return. Several ethnic groups live here on almost nothing, in government-built shacks.

A community camp is set up in a small cirque at the end of a canyon that, while not in the history books, offers a good descent. By mid-afternoon, the air was at 44°C, but luckily there was a spring... except it was a hot spring, with water at 38°C. And they haven’t invented a reversible spring yet. Once the birds and baboons had settled in, in absolute silence and far from any light pollution, we enjoyed the stars like nowhere else (well, that’s what they claim in the region).

The Orange didn’t choose the easy path: arriving from Lesotho, it was almost at the ocean. The terrain to the south and north of this massif seemed easier to cross. Was it to avoid the curse of the Okavango, whose waters disappear into the sands without ever seeing the sea, that it chose this rocky route, thinking that at least the granite wouldn’t steal its water?

I Love You, I Eat You

In the dry bed of the Auob, it lay panting, head raised, alert, between its paws but head-to-tail, a tawny springbok, motionless.

A few minutes earlier, their story had been written in a lightning-fast chase, captured in photos by the driver of the car that alerted us.

It would be a long time before it started eating at the groin without breaking its surveillance.

Earlier, there was a lion lounging in the shade and hundreds of antelopes: springboks and gemsboks (oryx) in herds, hartebeests and steenboks alone. Strange pairs, apart several times, formed by a springbok and a gemsbok.

A few solitary jackals moved slightly sideways, looking furtive. Ostriches, alone, looking a bit dazed.

It was a lucky morning in the Kgalagadi (KTP).

In and Out

Kgalagadi, Nossob Camp.

We were at the very end of the almost-empty camp, ten meters from the fence, whose structure wouldn’t resist an elephant (though there aren’t any here), but it was electrified.

At dusk, on the other side, ten meters away, three lions passed in a row, as if on parade, seemingly focused on their goal and indifferent to the camp, though they glanced at it.

A jackal had gotten into the camp and was trying to get out without success while scavenging. I offered it two pieces of snoek biltong (Don’t feed the animals!) from three meters away—it smelled strong and had bones (bones in biltong!). When it passed by again, it sniffed but didn’t dare approach. Curled up in the chair, motionless, by the faint moonlight, I finally saw it come closer, grab the nearest piece, and move ten meters away to enjoy it (how many jackals know the finer points of sea biltong?). A little reassured, it came back for the second piece.

Another Morning

By morning, the jackal was gone, but our luck hadn’t left us. Two cheetahs again, who found me in the way and slowly moved toward a calmer shadow. Enough birds of prey to form a squadron, but they’re solitary hunters. Two ostriches busy with their dozen unruly chicks. And while we’re at it, a group of four Kalahari lions, sprawled under a thorny bush. Lots of oryx crossing the dunes and herds of red hartebeest. Kori bustards and secretary birds.

It was the first time the Kgalagadi had spoiled us so much.

Hi there,

I’m a private individual with a 4x4 in Namibia (Toyota Landcruiser). I’d like to sell it to a European for payment in euros via a European bank account. Could anyone give me some tips on how to find interested buyers locally?