Recap of our family trip to Romania in 2019
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Translated into English.

Original post
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Hi everyone,

Better late than never—I’m finally getting around to sharing our trip to Romania from last year.

Before I start, I have a personal history with this country: I lived there in 2004 for three and a half months during a student internship. I still have friends there and a decent grasp of Romanian. That helps. But more than anything, I’ve grown attached to the country. It’s well-deserved—Romania gives back just as much. That said, when I talk about it, maybe I see things differently than someone visiting for the first time.

This was my third trip to Romania. This time, I brought my wife and our two daughters. After years of wanting to take a family trip there, this was finally the right moment. My wife wasn’t exactly thrilled at first—she’d been hesitant for years. But she ended up loving it, and we’ll definitely go back together. For our 6- and 8-year-old girls, the trip was fascinating in so many ways: the sights, learning about communism and totalitarian regimes, the Roma community, how different religions coexist, the Saxon minorities...

We landed in Bucharest last July. We spent two and a half weeks in the country. We took off from Toulouse early in the morning and arrived at Bucharest airport around noon. We flew with Lufthansa because it’s a solid airline and the cheapest option we found.

We rented a car. I don’t remember the rental agency’s name, but we got scammed a bit. We’d booked insurance through Booking, but when we arrived, we couldn’t print a credit card receipt. The issue? We only had debit cards, not credit cards (or vice versa), and without one, we couldn’t pick up the car without buying their on-site insurance. It was buried in the fine print—I’d read it but naively assumed a gold card would work. So, we had to take extra insurance. Basically, we threw 120 € in insurance fees out the window. Still, we got a Dacia Logan, and it ran like a dream the whole trip.

Here’s our rough itinerary: - Bucharest Airport => Sinaia => Brasov - Brasov => Viscri => Sighișoara => Sovata - Sovata => Bicaz Gorge => Iași - Iași => Bucharest

**Sinaia** We started in Sinaia, in the Carpathians. It’s an old Romanian vacation spot from the country’s golden age. A really nice place with great hikes. The mountains are stunning, covered in tall fir trees. There are beautiful buildings and old houses—it’s all very charming. We took the cable car up to the summit (no time to hike with the kids). It’s an old 1960s cable car with two sections (there are also detachable chairlifts). The view from the top is amazing. Then, Peles Castle—a must-see.

**On the road to Brasov** We stayed in a homestay in the village of Purcareni (15 minutes from Brasov by car) through an association called "L’Arbre de Joie." We spent a few days there. The association was founded by a French woman in the 90s and runs local projects. The family we stayed with was Hungarian. The price was around 90 € per day, including breakfast and dinner. The host spoke a little French, and her 16-year-old daughter spoke English fluently. We had great conversations. This family lives like a typical French family—they work at a clinic and a factory, own a car, and have a small chalet in the nearby mountains. From Purcareni, we explored: - **Bran Castle**: The iconic castle. There are way more tourist stalls now than when I first visited in 2004, but it’s still charming and worth seeing. - **Zărnești Bear Reserve**: Interesting—you learn a lot about bears. But it’s expensive, and it’s sad to see these beautiful animals in captivity. - **Râșnov Citadel**: Right near Zărnești. We did Bran, the bears, and this citadel all in one day last year. It’s pretty—you hike up a trail to get there. The view is gorgeous, but the site feels a bit neglected (or not fully restored yet). Some people love it, others don’t, but at least it’s authentic and not some Disneyland with fry stands everywhere. - **Brasov**: Of course! We went twice. It’s beautiful and nothing like what you’d imagine Romania to look like. We hiked up the hill overlooking the city—about 45 to 60 minutes with the kids. The view from the top is incredible, especially over the medieval rooftops. I wasn’t expecting much—I thought we’d see rundown buildings, but the "new" part of town is built farther to the right, so you barely notice it. - One day, we took a horse-drawn carriage (a touristy thing to do for the kids) to our hosts’ second home. It was still really fun. The area is super wild—just a few kilometers from the village, so close to Brasov. We ate *amazingly* with them. Traditional Romanian food is best enjoyed in people’s homes, not restaurants. So, I’d recommend eating at small guesthouses or homestays as much as possible.

**On the road to Viscri** No stops—just straight to Viscri. I found Viscri just as I’d left it in 2004. Maybe a few more tourists, maybe one or two new restaurants. The road still isn’t paved in the village. Viscri is my favorite place in Romania—a simple village with colorful houses. We found a reasonably priced Airbnb and had a great evening with our hosts. They were fascinating people, and we talked about Romania, Saxon minorities, Europe... The next morning, I went for a run and found a trail in the nearby forest. I followed it for a while before turning back. We also visited the fortified church.

**Sighișoara** I’d been there in 2004 and wasn’t particularly moved or impressed. I felt the same way in 2019. But that’s just our take.

**Sovata** In Sovata, we traveled the way I love—arriving around 5 PM with nothing booked and finding a place to stay by asking around. We ended up in homestays for two nights, and both were great. It’s a Hungarian-Romanian thermal spa town. The place is nice but nothing extraordinary, except when you get closer (but not too close) to the thermal complexes. There, you’ll find beautiful mansions and hotels from the early 19th century. It’s touristy, but only Romanians go there. We visited a warm-water lake—it was fun for the folklore, though the water wasn’t exactly inviting. Apparently, there’s another lake higher up that’s so salty you float in it, but we didn’t go. In the afternoon, we took the tourist steam train ("mocăniță" in Romanian). It was a blast—we chatted with people in the carriage. The train covers about 20 kilometers, then turns around (the locomotive detaches, spins, and reattaches). Everyone gets off at the halfway point, where people grill corn on the cob. Then the train heads back. The scenery isn’t breathtaking, but the fields were full of flowers, and the ride was lovely.

**Toward Bicaz Gorge** The next day, we headed to Bicaz Gorge and the Ceahlău Massif in Neamț (pronounced "Nyamts"). We passed through Corund, a village known for local crafts. Whether it’s actually made there or not is always up for debate in a society where cutting corners is common. Still, we found some nice plates, dishes, and souvenirs to bring home. Funny story: I was chatting with a young saleswoman in Romanian and was shocked to realize she didn’t understand me—not because my Romanian was bad, but because she *didn’t speak Romanian at all*. She only spoke Hungarian. Mind-blowing: you’re Romanian and don’t speak Romanian? We crossed a mountain (or big hill) before reaching the Gheorgheni plain—a small town nestled in the mountains, feeling like the end of the world. Was it the season? We saw *so many* storks, and they were *so close*. It was adorable.

**Bicaz Gorge** We stopped at "Lacul Roșu" (Red Lake) to take a boat ride with the kids. (Yeah, we did things we don’t usually do—gotta keep everyone engaged! And maybe that’s why they have such great memories of the trip.) Then, the Bicaz Gorge—one of my favorite spots in Romania. We stayed at Pensiunea Paleu in Bicazu Ardelean, a place I already knew. I think the price for four people, half-board (with delicious home-cooked meals), was around 90 € per day. The rooms are clean and simple, and there’s a big garden with a vegetable patch, a cow, and a pig. Most of the food served comes straight from the garden.

In the afternoon, after much hesitation, we headed to Ceahlău National Park. About 30 minutes by car, we entered the park (after waking up the park ranger, who reeked of booze and was napping). We drove to the end of the road, and then—against all odds—the four of us made it to the summit of Toaca Peak. This peak towers over the surrounding mountains. It was a great hike—starting in the Carpathian fir forests, then crossing a plateau covered in flowers (mid-July). We stopped for a drink at Cabana Dochia before heading up. The summit is a bit unusual because they’ve installed a big metal staircase. It’s steep in places—straight up, and I wouldn’t want to fall. There’s a sturdy railing, though. Even if the "normal route" doesn’t seem too hard. The view from the top is stunning—you can see the entire Carpathian region, vast forests, and the Bicaz Lake below.

**Iași** I used to live in Iași. We stayed with my former internship supervisor and his family. It’s not the first time we’ve crashed at people’s places. In Iași, we visited: - **The Opera House**: A beautiful building from the early 20th century, if I’m not mistaken. Our friends arranged a tour with the firefighters, who let us in and showed us around. It was fun. - **The "Hall of Lost Steps"**: You enter a massive room with stunning woodwork. It’s a huge university library, home to around a million books. The whole place is meticulously decorated. Visiting this room makes you wonder how Romania could have such a grand image. This country, in its golden age, had universities and thinkers. When you build something like this for knowledge and science, you’ve come a long way. - **The Palace of Culture**: This building was completely run-down in 2004 but has since been fully renovated. Where it was once gray, dull, and dirty, it now shines in the sunlight. It’s magnificent.

Beyond these three sights, we explored parks, wandered the city, went treetop climbing, and spent time with friends. Sure, Iași is way over in the east on a map of Romania, but it’s worth the detour.

After Iași, we headed back.

**In conclusion**, we spent three weeks in Romania. Here’s a rough breakdown of expenses (in €, all taxes included): - Flight tickets: 660 € - Car rental for 2.5 weeks: 250 € - Everything else (accommodation, food, activities, etc.): around 1,500 €

All in all, the trip wasn’t exactly cheap—around 2,500 to 2,800 € total. But we had a blast, and that’s what matters.

I had tons of great photos and wanted to share some, but I couldn’t upload them. If anyone’s interested, I can send them along.
BA Barneyg Regular ·
Thanks for the feedback!
AM Amarante63 Veteran ·
yes, I’d love to see the photos! I’m still on the fence about this destination... @+
Dany Les pieds ne vont que là où le cœur veut.
VI VinceAndorra Regular ·
Hi there,

What’s making you hesitate?
"Sauve un arbre, mange un castor"
AM Amarante63 Veteran ·
hi, what’s the appeal... ?? compared to other trips. Road conditions? Hotel infrastructure?
Dany Les pieds ne vont que là où le cœur veut.
VI VinceAndorra Regular ·
It’s a country that really keeps its surprises well hidden. The road conditions and hotel infrastructure as obstacles—it makes me chuckle, honestly...
"Sauve un arbre, mange un castor"
BA Barneyg Regular ·
Having been there in May 2024, I really think you shouldn’t hesitate. The landscapes are stunning, and the trip costs just a fraction of what you’d pay for a trip further west. There’s still a fascinating clash of eras—farmers delivering milk by cart aren’t uncommon in Transylvania, all while sitting right next to young people with modified BMWs or Volkswagens or the almost obscene opulence of some Roma manors.

I’d read a lot about the state of the roads, but honestly, it wasn’t an issue. I did Bucharest-Transylvania-Bucovina-Maramureș-Transylvania-Oltenia-Bucharest. The roads were, of course, rougher on the smaller local routes. I rented almost exclusively apartments on Booking.com, and they ranged from "good" to "outstanding"—especially for the price.

The monasteries and old churches are absolutely fascinating. They’re all a little different, with architecture that varies a lot from one region to another. While planning my route, I wondered if I’d get tired of churches, but no—there’s enough variety in styles, and they’re all so photogenic that it was worth it right until the end. Plus, in May, everything was in bloom—it was gorgeous. The only downside to traveling at that time of year is that the major mountain roads (Transfăgărășan and Transalpina) aren’t open yet.

As for the cities, it depends on what you’re into. In the touristy towns, there’s a mix that’s reminiscent of the rest of "ex-communist" Europe—a well-renovated historic quarter alongside large, Soviet-style apartment blocks. I didn’t explore the rougher parts of Bucharest, but everywhere I went was very well-kept, people were super friendly, and I felt completely safe.
DJ Djalma Globetrotter ·
I went there in September/October 2024 and completely agree with your opinion. I was able to travel, among other places, along the Transfăgărășan and hike in that area (Lake Bâlea), as well as in the Turda region, the Apuseni Mountains, and Maramureș. The road conditions are pretty good—even impeccable on the main routes. The only downside is the local driving! (Excessive speed in towns, especially, and disregard for traffic rules.) Tractors, horse-drawn carts in the middle of traffic—it can be a bit scary at times! The signage isn’t always clear, and some intersections are dangerous.

I really loved this country—the Saxon fortified towns and villages (Sibiu, Sighișoara, Viscri, etc.), the Székely Land (Hungarian minorities), the kindness of the people, its forests and still-wild mountains, its wildlife and flora... the traditions that are still very much alive, not just for tourists (folk music and dances) in certain regions. The accommodation is of good quality, especially in "guesthouses."

The food is pretty good and always very hearty... (breakfasts are downright pantagruelian!) I’ll definitely go back to visit other regions like Bucovina.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-XCOyB7WStI https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g2eI67iCbKY
AM Amarante63 Veteran ·
All the better if it makes you laugh!!! You know, I’ve crisscrossed North Africa from north to south and east to west! Check out my profile... now, I’m a certain age, and I take certain criteria into account.. best wishes!
Dany Les pieds ne vont que là où le cœur veut.
AM Amarante63 Veteran ·
Thanks, everyone! What might really help me decide is seeing the photos...
Dany Les pieds ne vont que là où le cœur veut.
DJ Djalma Globetrotter ·
if you know African countries well, then Romanian hotels and roads shouldn’t be an issue...

African countries aren’t all alike. West Africa, for me, is a bit of a distant memory... except for South Africa and Ethiopia, which I visited more recently. But just comparing those two, the differences are so huge that I struggle to make any kind of comparison! Overall, Romania has a pretty decent road network and accommodation options with a great value for money—similar to what you’d find in South Africa, one of the few African countries I know that can compare to Europe in general, and Romania in particular, in terms of accommodation quality and road conditions.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-XCOyB7WStI https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g2eI67iCbKY
AM Amarante63 Veteran ·
Thanks Barneyg, Bentok, and Djalma for sharing your experiences! However, I’m going to leave this thread because of a troll...
Dany Les pieds ne vont que là où le cœur veut.
VI VinceAndorra Regular ·
Hi VinceAndorra, let me give you a little friendly advice—when you’ve got nothing interesting to say, it’s best to stay quiet. Show some respect for the people on this forum by stopping with the pointless posts!

Responding with something meaningful to someone who compares Romania to a West or East African country... Yeah, right...
"Sauve un arbre, mange un castor"

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