Riding through the Algerian Sahara by motorcycle in January
FR

Translated into English.

Original post
PR
Hi everyone,

I’m starting to think about a trip that’s really close to my heart: Algeria by motorcycle, specifically the southern part of the country. It’d be for January 2025, and I’ve got two main questions:

Is it possible for an individual on a motorcycle to travel freely, outside of any organized tour, or does the regulation require some kind of supervision in the Algerian Sahara region?

Is the Hoggar massif accessible by road or by (rideable) tracks?

Beyond the official recommendations, I’m really looking for your firsthand experiences. Thanks so much for your answers, and sorry if my questions are a bit newbie!

Ride safe! ✌️ Didier
http://maroc2013.uniterre.com http://turquie2014.uniterre.com
TI Tiger3 Veteran ·
Hi Preludenrem. From Ghardaïa, you’ll need to be accompanied by a "guide"—more like an escort. You might pass a few checkpoints, but the gendarmerie will quickly ask for your permit and which agency is guaranteeing your itinerary. The Hoggar Mountains are mainly accessible via rough tracks, and if you're thinking of Assekrem, that’s proper off-road. One of the tracks (Hermitage/Hirkafok) is in particularly bad condition. Also, your Tadrah isn’t recommended without assistance and a Tuareg guide.

Watch your fuel range—fill up at every station. Algeria is huge. I met two bikers on BMW GSAs, but they were dual nationals. I was there in 2023 from October 15th to November 20th, solo in a 4x4 without any organization. This trip was one of the most heavily controlled I’ve ever done—Algeria is a very harsh dictatorship. Cheers, Thierry
http://www.lesroutesdailleurs.fr

https://plus.google.com/u/0/117367592382272882283/posts
PR Preludenrem Regular ·
Hi Thierry,

Thanks for your quick reply. Based on what I’ve heard, it seems the southern Algerian region is opening up to travelers again, and I was hoping for a bit more freedom to move around. A post on Routard confirms your experience, especially around Tamanrasset. I don’t think I’ll have enough time to go in January, but I’m already working on planning this trip—I’m really excited about it.

Best, Didier
http://maroc2013.uniterre.com http://turquie2014.uniterre.com
ME Meridiana Veteran ·
Yes, you’ll need a guide for the south—unless things have changed in the meantime, of course! We were there two years ago with a great Tuareg guide for about two weeks exploring the desert. We were never stopped, but there were gendarmes around pretty much everywhere.

I’ll pass along the guide’s contact in case you want to check prices and logistics with him. He’s flexible, speaks French well, and is really friendly—basically a great companion. His name’s Habib: . He replies quickly unless he’s in the desert where the connection isn’t always reliable.

You can also check out our short film where Habib appears: https://youtu.be/wN6-b_kAiFU?si=r8XtXuB_koPtmqHd

Happy travels
un mongol nait sous la yourte et meurt à cheval (proverbe mongol)
PR Preludenrem Regular ·
Hello and thanks for the info—the movie is really nice! For my part, I’m thinking of traveling by motorcycle solo, but I’m starting to realize it’s gonna be tricky. Still thinking it over… Cheers, Didier
http://maroc2013.uniterre.com http://turquie2014.uniterre.com
ME Meridiana Veteran ·
thanks for the compliments...

yes, you’ll need a guide.... I don’t think this process is finished yet... you could ask Habib to be sure and think it through properly....

good luck with your prep...
un mongol nait sous la yourte et meurt à cheval (proverbe mongol)
HU Huguetter Veteran ·
Hi, it's true that since 2022 the south has opened up, but a recent event might change everything. In Djanet on October 11th, a Swiss tourist was tragically killed in the village center. The Algerian government isn't communicating about this incident, and very little information is getting out. We're supposed to leave at the end of November, but even our local agency isn't mentioning it.
RO Roquespine ·
If they respond, it’ll just give them bad publicity. Tourism is a vital lifeline for the economies of “developing” countries. I think it’s a shame there’s no transparency! On the French side, they waited eight days to release the info.
TI Tiger3 Veteran ·
Hi there, I don’t think tourism is essential for them. Of course, the Djanet area is very touristy. But traveling alone in southern Algeria is a real adventure. The massive influx of migrants is a real border-control issue. A few days after leaving Tam, the city was closed to foreigners. Fuel deliveries to Tamanrasset, for example, are made in convoys and escorted by the gendarmerie. But it’s one of the most beautiful deserts in the world, that’s for sure!
http://www.lesroutesdailleurs.fr

https://plus.google.com/u/0/117367592382272882283/posts
PR Preludenrem Regular ·
Hi Thierry,

So you traveled alone in southern Algeria—I’m guessing by motorcycle—without a guide or escort? Could you share some insights, please? Thanks in advance!

Best, Didier
http://maroc2013.uniterre.com http://turquie2014.uniterre.com
SA Sawadeebaht Regular ·
Another Swiss tourist had her throat slit at a café terrace in the south. These isolated cases shouldn’t make us forget that it’s not entirely reasonable to go there.
Toujours une fois. Au moins.
TI Tiger3 Veteran ·
Good evening Preludenren, Re-read my reply above—no, this time it was in a Land Cruiser. I have a fitted 4x4. I was accompanied by an Algerian from Ghardaïa to Tam. In Tamanrasset, I was taken care of by a Tuareg guide. Since my trip was solo, I had to negotiate for 6 months to get my 40-day visa. Algeria isn’t like Pakistan or Iran—it’s more complicated.
http://www.lesroutesdailleurs.fr

https://plus.google.com/u/0/117367592382272882283/posts
PR Preludenrem Regular ·
Thanks Thierry, well noted! I gather my guide will sit behind me on the bike. That’s not gonna be easy! In any case, thanks to each and every one of you for your input. Best, Didier
http://maroc2013.uniterre.com http://turquie2014.uniterre.com
TI Tiger3 Veteran ·
Do we know each other? The motorcycle travel community isn't that big. Try to find a motorcycle guide—there are some (I know one by name but not their reliability). Some bikers show off quite a bit without mentioning the requirement to be checked and accompanied. Despite proven experience, I still had to "fight" to continue on a submitted route, but nothing is impossible. Here’s my travel site: www.lesroutesdailleurs.fr If anyone has off-road travel experience, the
http://www.lesroutesdailleurs.fr

https://plus.google.com/u/0/117367592382272882283/posts
TI Tiger3 Veteran ·
Good evening Didier! Do we know each other? The motorcycle travel community isn’t that big. Try to find a motorcycle guide—there are some (I know a name but not their reliability, so I won’t mention it here). Some bikers have made quite a show without mentioning the requirement to be supervised and accompanied. Despite proven experience, I still had to "fight" to continue on a route I’d filed with their authorities, but nothing’s impossible. Here’s my travel site: www.lesroutesdailleurs.fr If you have off-road travel experience, the Assekrem isn’t too difficult, except for the track mentioned in the first post.

- Ride on, Thierry
http://www.lesroutesdailleurs.fr

https://plus.google.com/u/0/117367592382272882283/posts
JO Joim Regular ·
Another Swiss tourist had her throat slit on a café terrace in the south. These isolated cases shouldn’t make us lose sight of the fact that it’s not entirely reasonable to go there.

In that case, we’d stop going to Germany, France, Spain, Morocco, etc...
RI Richardjean ·
Hi there, Did you end up taking that trip to southern Algeria? I’d love to do something similar—could you share a few tips?

Ride on,
Richard
PR Preludenrem Regular ·
Hi there,

I gave up. Too many constraints, not enough freedom! Have a great trip!
http://maroc2013.uniterre.com http://turquie2014.uniterre.com
RI Richardjean ·
Hi Didier, I’ve just returned from a 3-week trip through the Tassili N'Ajjer desert—Algiers to Ghardaïa by motorcycle in three stages, including Bou Saada, Laghouat, and Laghouat to Ghardaïa, all escorted by the gendarmerie. After that, we flew to Djanet, where we explored the Tassili N'Ajjer by 4x4 for 7 days. Then we headed back to Ghardaïa to pick up our motorcycles and made our way to Oran, Chlef, Tipaza, and Bouira for a tour of Kabylie before returning to Algiers.
Richard
DJ Djalma Globetrotter ·
Hi there Do you always have to be escorted by the police?! Is this just for Ghardaïa or everywhere in Algeria? Can’t you go to Djanet with your own vehicle without an escort? Same for Kabylie?😕
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-XCOyB7WStI https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g2eI67iCbKY
TI Tiger3 Veteran ·
Hi there, I traveled to Algeria in 2023 with my Land Cruiser, and an escort became mandatory starting from Ghardaïa. There were checkpoints afterward (roughly at every fuel stop). I had an escort in Tamanrasset. Then, with a Tuareg guide for Assekrem and to reach Djanet, and at times, we were grouped together and under escort. There were controls and tracking at every police station—my guide helped me skip some, but he got scolded afterward. The Tadrart Desert is controlled at the entrance (if you're in a small group, a satellite phone is required). It's impossible to do by motorcycle without a 4x4 escort for fuel. That’s it—it’s the worst dictatorship I’ve ever crossed (Iran, Turkmenistan, Tajikistan, etc.). Even the escorts in Pakistan were more fun.
http://www.lesroutesdailleurs.fr

https://plus.google.com/u/0/117367592382272882283/posts
RI Richardjean ·
Hi Jean-Michel, As soon as you head down toward the Sahara, you’re escorted. On our first day, we went to BouSaada without an escort, but on the second day, we were stopped at a checkpoint and then escorted for the next two days all the way to Ghardaïa. On the way back, we had an escort from Laghouat to Tiaret, and for the rest of the route, we were free to take whatever roads we wanted without an escort. Best regards, Richard
Richard
DJ Djalma Globetrotter ·
Good evening, I’m really happy I was able to do several crossings without an escort: Bechar, Adrar, Reggane, Gao, Timbuktu, Mopti, Bamako... Algiers, Ghardaïa, Ain Salah, Tamanrasset, In Guezzam, Agadez, Niamey, Lomé.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-XCOyB7WStI https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g2eI67iCbKY
TI Tiger3 Veteran ·
What year are we talking about? Because even in 2023, dual nationals were still subject to the escort and control regime.
http://www.lesroutesdailleurs.fr

https://plus.google.com/u/0/117367592382272882283/posts
DJ Djalma Globetrotter ·
This isn’t recent—back in 1978, 1979, and 1980, I did it with a 404 pickup and two 504s. 😏
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-XCOyB7WStI https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g2eI67iCbKY
RI Richardjean ·
Hi Jean-Michel, Escorts start roughly from a line between Tlemcen, Bou Saâda, Batna, and Tebessa. If you go further south, you’ll be stopped at the first checkpoint and accompanied by a gendarmerie vehicle—this happened to us this year from Bou Saâda to Ghardaia and back to Tiaret, where we had a gendarmerie escort.
Richard

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