Trek in the Rwenzori Mountains (Uganda)

Hi again Risso83!

Yep, you gave me some great tips for Argentina, so I’ll try to return the favor for Uganda! 😉😏 (I haven’t been there yet—it’ll be just before South America, but I’m already looking into it.) I can share the info from the LP "Trekking in East Africa" (though it’s from 2003😕). Here’s what I found about the Rwenzori: > In 2001, entry to Rwenzori Mountains NP was $900 🏴‍☠️, but the fee was quickly cut roughly in half; > The Bujuku-Mubuku Circuit (7d/6n) cost $480 as a "package" (park entry + 1 guide and 2 porters + emergency fees if needed); each extra day on this circuit was $52. For other treks, it was $69/day. > Summit climbs: Baker = $59, Luigi de Savoia = $83, Gessi = $117, Margherita, Speke, and Alexandra = $90 each.

> Camping is allowed near the "huts"; either option costs $15.

> Access is via Kasese, an easy bus ride from Kampala (7–8 hours); getting to the trailhead is a bit trickier. > Landscapes: forests and glaciers. > Safety: In 2001, authorities seemed to have secured this border park.

> More info: Uganda Tourist Board: http://www.visituganda.com/ Uganda Wildlife Authority: http://www.uwa.or.ug/ Uganda Travel Planner: http://www.traveluganda.co.ug

There you go! It’s a bit old (2003), but the landscapes won’t have changed. The rest will need updating with help from VF members who know more. Have a great day!

I'm glad I could help with Argentina😉

Thanks a lot for the info (2003 isn’t that old😛) See you!

a few (small) tips about:

http://www.ewpnet.com/rwenzori.htm

Hi there, I did this trek in late January 2007. Here were the conditions at the time:

Ruwenzori National Park (or Rwenzori, depending on spelling) can only be explored with a guide and porters. To do this, you must go through the Ruwenzori Mountaineering Service (RMS), an association of guides that holds a concession from the Ministry of Tourism to organize visits. RMS has an office in Kasese and a branch in Ibanda, the starting point of the trek. In theory, a trek can be organized on the spot without any major issues. Every morning, there’s a line of 200 porters/guides waiting outside the RMS offices in Ibanda. Alternatively, you can email RMS at trek@rwenzorimountaineeringservices.com. They’ll send you a quote, and payment is made via bank transfer—through a New York bank, if I remember correctly. Everything went smoothly, no hassles. However, they might try to upsell you on extra services (hotel, transfer from Kampala, etc.).

The classic route is the Central Circuit, which takes 6-7 days: Day 1: Ibanda-Nyabittaba (+1000m) Day 2: Nyabittaba-John Matte Hut (+700m) Day 3: John Matte Hut-Bujuku Hut (+600m) Day 4: Bujuku Hut-Elena Hut (+600m) Day 5: Elena Hut - Margherita Peak - Elena Hut - Kitandara Hut (+600m -900m) Day 6: Kitandara Hut - Guy Yeoman Hut (+300m -900m) Day 7: Guy Yeoman Hut - Ibanda (-1700m)

You can split the last day into two, but after eight days in the mud, you’ll be exhausted and it’ll feel like a breeze. If you don’t want to summit (a shame!), you can combine days 4 and 5.

The park entry fee is $850 (I think $650 without the summit) and includes park entry, hut accommodation, a guide, two porters, and transport from Kasese. This price is non-negotiable, though one of my ultra-budget travel companions managed to knock off a few dozen dollars by using public transport between Kasese and Ibanda.

Extras you can add: - An extra porter (mandatory if you summit): $7/day - A cook: $7/day - Food: $10/day

A cook and food are *highly* appreciated after a day in the rain...

For the approach, there are great buses from Kampala to Fort Portal or Kasese (4-7 hours). Hotels in Kasese and Fort Portal aren’t amazing, but they’ll do.

For more details, check out the May issue of *Montagnes Mag*. And of course, the October 2007 issue of *Trek* magazine—your humble servant had the pleasure and honor of writing it...

Best, Tonio

Thanks again for all this very detailed information. But this request is for a very hypothetical trip.

Thanks +++

And of course the Trek magazine from October 2007, which your humble servant will have the pleasure and honor of writing...

Wow... I can't wait to see that! 🙂 Uh, is it possible to post it for free on VF?

Thanks a lot for the details about this route. Do you have any other great trek ideas in the region (Uganda, Kenya, Tanzania)? Thanks!

I'd love to, but even though we're a small team, we still need to earn a few bucks to be able to eat at the end of the month... 😇 On the other hand, I'll be posting plenty of practical info on our new website once it's online, which shouldn't be long now.

Tonio Trek mag

hey Tonio

I’ve got a choice for the 7-day Rwenzori trek: go directly through RMS or also use a local tour operator. The first option would cost me 900 €, the second 1,330 €.

With the tour operator, I’ll climb Margherita Peak, but with just RMS, I’ll only go up Speke Peak since there’s no glacier and no special gear is needed.

With the tour operator, I’ll join a group of 2 other people, which I think is more fun. But is it worth the price difference?

Is it easy to meet other trekkers during the trek?

guillaume

Hi Guillaume, The organization is generally quite flexible on-site. If you decide, for example, to extend by a day for acclimatization, you’ll pay for that extra day when you check out, once the park entrance checkpoint manager notes you’ve spent an extra day in the park. If you're alone, you can discuss all this with your guide along the way. However, if you plan to climb Marguerita Peak, you’ll indeed need extra gear and an additional porter, so you’ll have to plan that in advance. The Speke summit is sometimes done as a day trip from Bujuku Hut to help with acclimatization. You can easily afford this extra day since the last two stages are completed in a single day. As for company, I traveled solo personally. That said, I was with a group of Italians in the huts for the first three days since we were following the same stages. Then, as they spent two days at Bujuku for acclimatization, I left them to be on my own. It’s up to you. The part I did solo didn’t really bother me—it was a chance to bond with my team: a guide, two porters, and a cook... Have a great trip! Tonio

PS: I’ll be in Ladakh for the next 25 days. Don’t expect too many replies from me. But I’ll keep an eye on this thread, especially while the October issue of Trek mag is on newsstands...

Thanks for all this info. I still have a few questions about these places regarding snow cover (I might drag a pair of skis along just for the fun of it ;-) ):

At what altitude does significant snow cover begin? Which area of the massif has the best snow cover? Margarita Peak, probably? What type of snow can you expect (penitentes, ice, fresh powder)? What’s the best season for snow cover?

Thanks in advance.

Hi there, Sorry for the radio silence—I just got back from a reporting trip... Trekking in Ladakh (Lasermo La and the Shyok Valley) plus a Stok Kangri ascent. If you're looking for info...

To answer your questions about the Ruwenzori: The glacier starts around 4,700 m, maybe even a little lower near the Elena Hut. The largest of them is clearly the Stanley Plateau, which separates Alexandra-Margherita Peak from Savoia Peak. In terms of consistency, it’s mostly hard snow, quite frozen. The glacier has been melting visibly over the past century, and there’s no distinct season in terms of snow cover. However, only two seasons let you reach the summits without drowning: mid-December to mid-February, and mid-June to mid-July. Outside these windows, expect guaranteed torrential rain! Skiing in the Ruwenzori? Honestly, I wouldn’t have thought of it. It seems so small... Carrying skis for eight days just to ski for an hour feels a bit frustrating. On the other hand, if you want to open routes on cams, it’s max commitment and probably lots of first ascents. Up to you! Anthony

Hi Tonio,

Following up on the questions I asked you about the Rwenzori—I went there in August 2007. Thanks for the info!

I did the central circuit, without Margaritha Peak.

I really loved the scenery: the mossy vegetation, giant lobelias... it was like something out of a fairy tale.

All the best, Guillaume

Hi there,

I’ve been dreaming about the Rwenzori, and the article in Trek Mag convinced me. I’m really tempted to do it in February.

Practical question: what about protecting photo gear? I get that February is the end of the good season for this trek, but I imagine it still rains every day—and not just a little. Is a rain cover enough to protect the camera, or is it essential to stow it in a waterproof container buried in my backpack (and therefore not easily accessible)?

Thanks in advance! Renaud

HEY RENAUD

I brought a film SLR camera for the 6 days of the central Rwenzori circuit.

It was in its non-waterproof protective case, that case was in my small daypack, that daypack was protected by my poncho when it rained, but I didn’t need to put the camera in a plastic bag. I had a plastic bag just in case, though.

With digital, it’s trickier. Make sure to bring extra batteries for digital since there’s no electricity during the trek.

See you soon,

guillaume

Hi Guillaume,

Thanks for the info!

Is the Speke ascent worth it?

Apart from the Rwenzori, have you been to Kibale Forest (chimpanzees), Bwindi for the gorillas, or Queen Elizabeth National Park?

Thanks

Hi, I was carrying quite a bit of gear (Nikon D200 + D70s, 12-24 mm, 18-70 mm, 80-200 mm lenses, empty hard drive for memory cards...) and opted for a waterproof canister inside a canyoning bag. This setup is a bit cumbersome but very effective since it can handle full immersions. With a few silica gel packets at the bottom of the canister, the equipment is 100% protected from the elements—it can even dry out (silica gel absorbs moisture) after a humid day.

My waterproof canister fit exactly into the diameter of the canyoning bag (which, by the way, is perforated to let water drain out). At the bottom of the bag, I had my day essentials (some trail snacks, a lightweight fleece...) in a small dry bag, and on top, the photo canister. I tightened the bag’s drawstring just below the canister’s lip, so I only had to remove the bag and unscrew the lid to access my camera gear (I didn’t use the canyon bag’s removable flap).

In practice, when the weather’s "nice"—meaning no rain—you can walk with your camera slung over your shoulder without any issues. As soon as the weather turns, you put everything back in the canister and only take out the gear when needed. With a little practice, it took me less than ten seconds to pull my camera out of the canister.

26L waterproof canister, available at Expé (ref. 0420): 19.90 € Decathlon canyoning bag: 34.90 €

On a side note, for completeness, I found a great pair of oiled cotton fisherman’s pants at Decathlon that worked perfectly for this kind of expedition. They dried quickly, and I could stash my poncho in the large bellow pockets.

Tonio Administrator www.trekmag.com The Rwenzori tag on Trekmag My Rwenzori trekking guide

Thanks for all these practical details, Tonio. Can't wait to be there!

Last practical question: what’s the temperature at night at 4,000m in the Rwenzori? Does it freeze?

I don’t plan to do the glaciers and will stick to the Central Circuit.

Thanks

Hi there, and thanks for all the info already shared!

Here are a few more questions if you don’t mind answering: Is the ascent of Margherita Peak advisable for someone with no mountaineering experience? I’ve already trekked at altitudes around 5,000 meters, but without any technical difficulty. Here, it seems like you need to gear up more seriously. Are boots really necessary? I have to admit, it feels weird not taking my trusty hiking shoes for a trek like this. Is it easy to join a group on-site? I’ll be traveling solo in Uganda, but for this trek, I think it’s more fun to do it with others.

Thanks in advance!

Hi Yangguizi,

Is climbing Margherita Peak advisable for someone with no mountaineering experience? I’ve already trekked at altitudes around 5,000 meters, but without any technical difficulty. Here, it seems you need to gear up more seriously.

It’s not exactly technical mountaineering: the Stanley Plateau glacier is flat, and the Margherita glacier isn’t crevassed (as of January 2007). However, high-altitude hazards are very real: fog can hit at any moment and reduce visibility to almost zero (I’d say a GPS with trackback function is essential for safety), hidden crevasses under snow are always possible, etc. It all depends on your local guide. Mine was named John (can’t recall his last name right now...) and he was outstanding at finding the gap between the two glaciers in thick fog... though he probably wouldn’t have been able to pull me out of a crevasse if I’d fallen in. Realistically, I had a GPS to at least retrace my steps, and I kept a close eye on the glacier. If it had looked too sketchy, I’d have probably insisted on turning back. Zero risk doesn’t exist, but you’ve got to trust your judgment.

Are boots really necessary? I’ll admit it feels weird not to bring my trusty hiking shoes for a trek like this.

Without a doubt, leave your shoes at home and get a good pair of boots. The ones you can rent at the start are pretty flimsy... Your hiking shoes would be soaked through the first marshes anyway.

Is it easy to join a group on-site? I’ll be traveling solo in Uganda, but for this trek, I think it’s more fun to do it with others.

If you’ve got some time, it’s doable to team up—either in Kasese or at the start in Nyakalengija. Try posting a message on the forums Ruwenzori and Partner Board on Trek’s site.

Thanks for your tips! I had no idea what to do this weekend, so I’ll go boot-hunting. 🙂

One last question, maybe: what are the temperatures like near the summit and the upper part of the trek? (I’ll be there in late July/early August, but I guess the differences aren’t huge from one season to another.)

I’ll also send a quick email to RMS to see if they can organize the meet-ups...

For the temperature, it was snowing, so it must have been around zero degrees. Tonio

PS: Make sure to bring me back fresh info on the rates (price per porter per day, all-inclusive price for the Central Circuit, etc.). 😉

no problem! 🙂

I arrived in Kasese a few hours ago, the last town before the Rwenzori Mountains.

The trek organized by RMS still costs 680 € plus all the extras (equipment rental, cook, etc.) to negotiate.

Apparently, I’m lucky to be here during an exceptional dry spell—some tourists even managed the route completely dry recently! I start the trek tomorrow, fingers crossed it lasts!

So, back home?

Tonio

... Our great friend Yangguizi died during the ascent of Margherita Peak...

See messages from his many friends on the forum:

http://voyageforum.com/v.f?post=1933696#1933696

We’re all devastated by his sudden passing.

Hi everyone,

Following the tragedy mentioned above, Trek magazine has just published a comprehensive guide on acute mountain sickness (AMS). I encourage all of you to check it out before any high-altitude trip. This guide is dedicated to Patrick. May this AMS guide one day save lives.

http://www.trekmag.com/Article/438-dossier-mal-aigu-des-montagnes-mam.html

Sorry for the minor breaches of the forum rules. I hope you’ll forgive me this one time.

Anthony

hi there, it seems you’ve already been to the Rwenzori Mountains. We’re planning to go during the second half of February 2009. Do you think it’s a good time? Does it rain a lot? (We were in Vietnam last August climbing Sappa during Typhoon Kamuri, and another drowned trip would really bum me out…) Thanks for your reply! MN

Hi mnvb,

I was in the Rwenzori Mountains from February 15th to 22nd, where I did the 7-day circuit but didn’t summit. The best time to go is from December to March (July-August also seems good). Apart from a 20-minute shower in the afternoon on the first day, it was relatively "dry." By dry, I mean no rain, but it’s still humid. Sometimes there’s a light drizzle or a bit of fog. Evenings can be chilly (though I didn’t experience frost), and the humidity makes it feel even colder.

Make sure to bring a good sleeping bag and at least a rain poncho. Except for the first day up to Nyabitaba Hut, I hiked in boots the whole way. The boots you can rent on-site are poor quality, so bring your own from Europe.

Be careful with altitude sickness—like you’ve probably read above, a tourist died in early August while climbing Margharita Peak.

It’s one of the most beautiful places I’ve ever seen. This trek is incredible—it feels like you’re on another planet.

If you’d like more info, don’t hesitate to ask.

Happy travels, Renaud

hi Renaud, and thanks for this valuable info; I think I’ll "dose up" on Diamox before I leave, since I got the infamous AMS on Kilimanjaro. When I read about the recent tragedy on the Rwenzori, I had a huge retrospective scare—by about 4,600 m I had all the worst symptoms. I think we felt so strong that we climbed too fast via the Machame Route...

Did you go see the gorillas? Is it worth the high price they charge? For me, visiting the gorillas is just as important as the trek itself.

Thanks again, Marie-Noëlle

Hi Marie-Noëlle, Go easy on the Diamox. It’ll never replace proper acclimatization, and it can even mask AMS symptoms. Check out the AMS guide published by Trek (link above).

Anthony

hi Anthony, and thanks for the tip!! I’ll be careful anyway: an old sporty lady, I’ve never taken any "products", even unknowingly... I’d never heard of this diamox, and I’ll only take it on medical advice. Marie-Noëlle

Hi Marie-Noëlle,

I didn’t go see the gorillas. Too expensive, and I didn’t have time to get a permit even after emailing the responsible department weeks before the trip.

On the other hand, I did a guided visit in Kibale to see the chimpanzees—really nice!

I regret not pushing further south toward Kisoro to climb the three volcanoes.

Have a great trip! Renaud

Hi there,

I’m reviving this thread—lots of travelers here have done this trek.

When you mention RMS, you’re talking about Ruwenzori Mountaineering Services (with an "s"), because there’s another agency online called Ruwenzori Mountaineering Service (no "s").

This site: https://www.rwenzorimountaineeringservices.com/

Thanks

I hope you get a response, but the last time the forum user you're asking (Nomade0210) was active was in 2017, so it's not a sure thing. Maybe better to start a new thread with your questions.