South America

Hi, I’m planning a trip to Argentina with friends for 21 days. Could you tell me which places are worth spending more time in—or not—since the country is so big?

Hi everyone, We’re heading to Chile and Argentina for 4 weeks (Atacama Desert, Easter Island, and Chilean and Argentine Patagonia). For Patagonia, our itinerary (rental car) is as follows: 1 night in Puerto Natales 2 nights in Torres del Paine.

Then we’ll drive back up to El Chaltén, where we’ll spend 3 nights (fingers crossed the weather lets us do the two hikes we’ve planned). After that, we’re off to El Calafate for 2 nights (Perito Moreno Glacier). Our last day and night in Argentina will be spent at an estancia (Nibepo Aike). This is where I’m wondering: We have to drive in one day from the estancia (1.5 hours of dirt road from El Calafate) all the way to Punta Arenas. On paper, it seems doable. But what’s it like in reality? Is it too long? Thanks for your thoughts and advice—I hope I’ve been clear. Pilar

Hi everyone, I’d love to explore Colombia next winter and, of course, I’m really keen to discover the country’s natural wonders. However, I know that despite impressive progress, there are still security issues in Colombia, and that remote mountainous forest areas were once favored by guerrillas and drug traffickers as hideouts. I assume things are different now. I’m well aware that big cities like Bogota, Medellin, and Cartagena require extra vigilance, but that seems pretty normal in itself.

But I’d like to know if it’s possible—and safe enough—to rent a car and explore the national parks and nature reserves on my own, without a guide (such as Parque Nacional Natural Chingaza, Parque Nacional Natural Páramo de Iguaque, Parque Nacional Natural Serranía de los Yariguíes, Pico Cristóbal Colón, etc.).

Of course, I’m also aware of the dangerous wildlife (pumas, jaguars, snakes, spiders, crocs, etc.), but that’s another story.

Thanks for your replies! :-)

Hi there, I’m planning a 3-week trip to Patagonia and Chile at the end of March. I’m looking for a pretty chill itinerary that isn’t too tiring for health reasons, but still a nice trip... To avoid spending three weeks in the somewhat chilly Patagonia, we’re planning to head up to Valparaíso and the Atacama Desert. Here’s the itinerary: Arrival in Buenos Aires Flight to El Calafate (4 nights) Bus to Puerto Natales (1 night) Torres del Paine (4 nights) Santiago (1 night) (flight from Puerto Natales) Valparaíso (4 nights) San Pedro de Atacama (5 nights) Santiago (1 night) then flight to Paris I’m wondering whether it’s worth going all the way to Ushuaia. Sure, it’s a legendary destination, but is it as impressive as El Calafate and Torres del Paine? The other option would be to cut one night from Torres del Paine, Valparaíso, and San Pedro, and spend 3 nights in Ushuaia instead. Also, I’m a bit confused about whether an international driver’s permit is required to drive in Argentina and Chile. I’ve applied for one, but the processing times are really long, and I probably won’t have it before I leave... Thanks for your feedback, Marc

Hi, I’d like to know if it’s possible to leave luggage at Quito and Baltra airports so I can hike with a lighter load. Could you also share the rates for this service, please? Thanks in advance for your reply.

Bonjour,

Je viens une fois de plus vous demander votre précieux avis (qui m'a déjà aidée à plusieurs reprises pour d'autres voyages, merci 🙂) pour un itinéraire de 3 semaines 1/2 en Colombie en janvier. Nous partons en couple, en sac à dos et notre voyage se fera en bus uniquement (à moins qu'on craque une fois pour un avion mais on aimerait éviter).

Pour ne pas passer notre temps à courir et parce qu'on veut éviter la marée de touriste sur la cote caraïbe, on a réfléchi à un parcours qui peut sembler atypique. Est-ce que vous pourriez me dire ce que vous en pensez svp ?

On atterrit à Bogota -> Armenia (vallée de cocora) -> Zone Cafetera -> Medellin -> Guatape et Jardin -> Capurgana et Sapzurro -> retour Bogota (ou Paramo de Oceta si on a le temps)

On est plus attiré par les coins relax sans trop de touristes et on aimerait vraiment aller se baigner dans un bel endroit (on habite au quebec et c'est plutot compliqué de se baigner en mer surtout en janvier!)

Merci à toutes et tous!

Hi everyone,

I’m planning my trip to Brazil in March 2025 (finally!) and I’d love to hear your thoughts on Ilha Grande and Paraty. We’ll be arriving from Rio and departing from Paraty (heading to São Paulo). How can we best organize these transfers—can we book the different transports on the spot? How much time is ideal to stay in these two places to enjoy them without doing long hikes? Do you have an estimated budget? Thanks for your feedback! Dominique

Hi, We’re considering a discovery trip to Brazil in summer 2025 for a maximum of 3 weeks, transport included. Since the must-see sites are very far apart, we’ve selected the ones that seemed the most spectacular and have little or no equivalent elsewhere in the world. Here’s what we’re thinking: Outbound: 1 day Paris → São Paulo Iguaçu: 2 days Transfer: 1 day via São Paulo or Rio and São Luís Lençóis National Park: 3 days Transfer: 1 day via São Luís Salvador de Bahia: 2 days Transfer: 1 day via Rio Rio: 4 days Return: 1 day What do you think? I was thinking of adding a stop that’s easily accessible without flying from one of the places above. Ilha Grande? Tinharé Island? Any other suggestions? Thanks in advance for your tips! Virginie

Hi everyone, actually I have a 6-month tourist visa for Bolivia, but a friend is telling me I can’t enter Bolivia with this visa. I don’t understand why—he says I need a transit visa instead. Could someone please clarify this for me? I’m really confused.

Hi there, I’m reaching out to get your thoughts on an upcoming trip to Peru. The issue is that I unfortunately don’t have enough time to do everything. I’ve put together four itineraries and would love your feedback on them.

Option 1 Option 2 Option 3 Option 4 Day 1 August 14, 2025 Flight Canada – Lima Bus Lima – Huacachina Accommodation Huacachina Flight Canada – Lima Bus Lima - Huacachina Accommodation Huacachina Flight Canada – Lima Bus Lima - Huacachina Accommodation Huacachina Flight Canada – Lima Bus Lima - Huacachina Accommodation Huacachina Day 2 August 15, 2025 Visit Huacachina Bus Huacachina – Arequipa Overnight bus accommodation Visit Huacachina Accommodation Huacachina Visit Huacachina Accommodation Huacachina Visit Huacachina Bus Huacachina – Arequipa Overnight bus accommodation Day 3 August 16, 2025 Visit Arequipa Accommodation Arequipa Bus Huacachina – Lima Flight Lima – Juliaca Accommodation Puno Visit Paracas Accommodation Paracas Visit Arequipa Accommodation Arequipa Day 4 August 17, 2025 Colca Canyon excursion Transfer Arequipa-Puno Accommodation Puno Visit Lake Titicaca Accommodation Puno Bus Paracas – Lima Flight Lima - Cusco Colca Canyon excursion Accommodation Arequipa Day 5 August 18, 2025 Visit Lake Titicaca Bus Puno-Cusco (7:00 AM) Overnight bus accommodation Bus Puno - Cusco Visit Cusco Accommodation Cusco Visit Cusco Accommodation Cusco Flight Arequipa – Cusco Visit Cusco Accommodation Cusco Day 6 August 19, 2025 Visit Humantay Lake Accommodation Cusco Visit Humantay Lake Accommodation Cusco Visit Humantay Lake Accommodation Cusco Visit Humantay Lake Accommodation Cusco Day 7 August 20, 2025 Visit Sacred Valley Accommodation Ollantaytambo Visit Sacred Valley Accommodation Ollantaytambo Visit Sacred Valley Accommodation Ollantaytambo Visit Sacred Valley Accommodation Ollantaytambo Day 8 August 21, 2025 Visit Machu Picchu Accommodation Ollantaytambo Visit Machu Picchu Accommodation Ollantaytambo Visit Machu Picchu Accommodation Ollantaytambo Visit Machu Picchu Accommodation Ollantaytambo Day 9 August 22, 2025 Bus Ollantaytambo - Cusco Visit Sacred Valley Accommodation Cusco Bus Ollantaytambo - Cusco Visit Sacred Valley Accommodation Cusco Bus Ollantaytambo - Cusco Visit Sacred Valley Accommodation Cusco Bus Ollantaytambo - Cusco Visit Sacred Valley Accommodation Cusco Day 10 August 23, 2025 Bus Cusco – Vinicunca Visit Rainbow Mountain Accommodation Cusco Bus Cusco – Vinicunca Visit Rainbow Mountain Accommodation Cusco Bus Cusco – Vinicunca Visit Rainbow Mountain Accommodation Cusco Bus Cusco – Vinicunca Visit Rainbow Mountain Accommodation Cusco Day 11 August 24, 2025 Flight Cusco – Lima Visit Lima Accommodation Lima Flight Cusco – Lima Visit Lima Accommodation Lima Flight Cusco – Lima Visit Lima Accommodation Lima Flight Cusco – Lima Visit Lima Accommodation Lima Day 12 August 25, 2025 Flight Lima - Canada Flight Lima - Canada Flight Lima - Canada Flight Lima - Canada

Bonjour à tous, Le 15 aout nous irons de Sao Paulo à Salvador de Bahia (en avion, quelle compagnie choisir?) pour y passer une dizaine de jours. N'ayant pas eu de vacances depuis 2 ans, nous aimerions ne pas trop passer notre temps sur les routes mais découvrir de jolis coins pittoresques, pas trop envahis de touristes... Quels conseils? Nous pensons déjà passer 2-3 jours à Salvadore et ensuite?? Je pense que 2 autres destinations proches d'où nous pourrions nous ballader serait l'idéal: Praia do Forte, Itaparica, Lorro de Sao Paulo, Cachoeira, autres lieux incontournables? Merci pour votre aide

Hi everyone! My partner and I are heading to Argentina for a 3-week trip at the end of January, and we’d love to know which of these options is best: - Exchanging euros to pesos directly once we’re there - Exchanging euros to USD here in France and bringing the USD to swap for pesos as soon as we arrive in Argentina, since we’ve seen a lot of advice about bringing USD.

Another question: how much cash should we bring for 3 weeks in Argentina?

Thanks so much for your help! Looking forward to your tips! Yannick

Hi, I read on a blog that for long overnight trips, there’s a "cama" category and even "cama VIP". I’m planning a Santa Marta/Bucaramanga route, but I can’t find this option on the bus company websites. Has anyone already done this route, and under what conditions? Thanks for your feedback!

Hello, We're a family with three boys aged 8 to 14, and we'll be in Brazil next April. We land at GRU around 4 PM on a Saturday and want to head straight to Paraty. I've seen several options:

Private taxi: Do you have any contacts for private drivers or companies that could transport all five of us directly from the airport and that I can book in advance? I’ve already reached out to a few, but the rates are really high.

Uber: I tested the app from France, but it doesn’t offer vehicles for 5 people (Uber XL). Is that the case locally too, or is it because I’m testing from France?

99app: I couldn’t install the app from France to test it.

Bus: Take a bus from the bus station, either directly in the evening (departures around 9 PM and 10:30 PM—7-hour trip) or the next morning. This isn’t my preferred option because I’d either have to take a late bus right after we arrive (and I’m not sure how safe the area is at night, based on what I’ve read) or book a hotel to go the next morning and lose a night.

Thanks for your help.

Hi, I’d like to meet a Mapuche community in the Lake District during my upcoming trip to Chile. I’ve been given several offers, but the prices are way too high (nearly 1100 € for 2 days/3 nights). Even though the advertised program sounds interesting, I’m hoping there are other ways to connect with a Mapuche community. I’m open to any ideas on the topic! Best, Jamet JC

Hi, I booked a car with Sixt from Temuco to Puerto Montt from 01/27/25 to 02/17/25. On Saturday, I got an email canceling the reservation. But the reservation is still showing up on the website (as of this morning at 9:30 AM). Can’t reach Sixt Chile. Sixt France is also in the dark (they can’t contact Chile either). Has anyone heard anything about this?

Hi there, I just wanted to warn those who want to reach the beaches of Tayrona Park by lancha. If you're not a fan of thrills or prone to seasickness, opt for the car instead. We did this 40-minute lancha trip to Playa Cristal, with rough seas and huge waves that nearly capsized the boat several times. And we arrived at Playa Cristal completely soaked—though that wasn’t too bad, really...

Anyway, the beaches and the park are amazing.

Hi, I’d love to spend a night in the park to enjoy it without rushing, but I’m shocked by the prices and the poor quality of the accommodations I’ve found on Booking. Are there any other more reasonable options on-site (aside from tents and hammocks, which aren’t for us...)? Also, is it risky not to book ahead for a trip in March? Thanks for your feedback!

Hi there, Not wanting to go through a traditional travel agency—often based in France and only offering "items pulled from an internet catalog"—I’ve decided to plan this trip to Chile on my own this year, in March-April. However, I’m overwhelmed by the number of options online. I’ll be staying in San Pedro de Atacama for 4 nights. I’d love to explore San Pedro de Atacama and its surroundings. Since I won’t have a vehicle, I’ll likely need to rely on group transfers. What do you recommend as must-see places and activities? And most importantly, which trustworthy providers should I turn to? Thanks in advance! Jamet JC

Hi everyone, I’m planning to spend about a week in the Amazon in April or May—the dates aren’t set yet—flying in and out of Manaus. I’d love to hear about the must-see spots in Manaus besides the theater and the Amazon Museum. After that, I’d like to take a boat trip on the Amazon or the Rio Negro to escape the city and find some peace for a 3- or 4-day trek in the forest. I also saw that the town of Presidente Figueiredo is worth visiting for all the waterfalls nearby. If you’ve been to Manaus and have any recommendations, I’d love to hear them. Have a great day, everyone.

Hello,

I’ve planned a 3.5-week trip to Chile in February/March 2025, with the goal of driving the Carretera Austral from Puerto Montt to Caleta Tortel in a rented 4x4. The itinerary is set, accommodations are booked, and the 4x4 is reserved. We could still tweak things a bit, but it’s getting harder to find available lodging in some spots.

Here’s the planned route: - 1 night in Puerto Montt on arrival day - 2 nights in Castro (Chiloé Island) - 2 nights near Ensenada - 1 night in Horniporén - 1 night in Chaitén - 3 nights in Puyuhuapi - 2 nights in Coyhaique - 3 nights between Puerto Bertrand and Cochrane - 2 nights in Caleta Tortel - 3 nights in Puerto Guadal - 1 night in Chile Chico (to take the ferry across the lake) - 1 night in Villa Cerro Castillo before flying out from Balmaceda

I have a few questions about the activities we’d like to do:

The **Marble Caves**: I’d love an option that lets us "go inside" them. From what I’ve read, this depends on the water level, wind, and type of boat. Any tips or advice? We’d like to do an **excursion to see condors**. We were thinking of doing this while in Coyhaique (we’re staying 2 nights). Has anyone done this? With which agency? We’re spending 3 nights between Puerto Bertrand and Cochrane. The idea is to **explore the vast Patagonia Park and its wildlife**. But I’m not sure where to start. Any recommendations for day hikes or itineraries? I read somewhere that you can do a day trip with a guide that includes a boat ride on Lake Cochrane, but I can’t find the booking info. An agency for **glacier exploration** (we were thinking of **Lake Leones Glacier**). I contacted Ruta León but haven’t heard back. Any agencies to recommend?

Thanks so much! Pascale

Hi, I’m really surprised by the wide range of prices charged by car rental companies in Chile, so I’d like to know which type of vehicle is best suited for the roads in the Lake District: Puerto Montt and Ensenada, between Ensenada and Pucón, and between Pucón and Currarrehue, for example. I have the choice between 4x4s (expensive!), 4x2s (I don’t know what that is), SUVs (also expensive), and more classic vehicles. Thanks in advance! JJC

Hello,

After putting off my trip to Chile (and Argentina) for several years (protests plus Covid 19/20/21...), I’d love to know what the average cost is now for a journey from north to south? (Public transport and "ordinary" hotels) If you have any recent info, thanks for taking the time to reply...

😉 Best regards,

Cruzo.

Hi everyone, I’m restarting my travel reports with my 2023 trip that took me from Costa Rica to Suriname over a month and a half.

First stop: Costa Rica. I arrived in late September in San José, a city I know well and never linger in. As soon as I got off the early-morning flight, I headed to the domestic airport—just a 5-minute walk away—to catch a 45-minute flight to Puerto Limón on the Caribbean coast. The 40-minute flight in a small Cessna was fun, especially since we landed on a tiny airstrip right by the sea—it felt like landing on the beach, which immediately set the mood. Plus, I wasn’t keen on enduring the 4–5-hour bus ride to Cahuita, especially since large sections of the road were under renovation. In Cahuita (where I’ve been going every year since 2015), I stayed at Kenaki Lodge on Playa Grande. It’s a great lodge, about a 45-minute walk from Cahuita’s center, but you’re just 50 meters from the beach and usually have it all to yourself. The lodge is run by Béa, a Frenchwoman, and depending on the season, you can help release baby turtles on the beach. The room was 55 €, very spacious, and you can use the outdoor kitchen. I’d recommend it for anyone looking for peace and quiet and a private beach.

After 5 days there, I flew to Cartagena but didn’t stay overnight. Instead, I headed straight to Rincón del Mar, a 3-hour bus ride from CTG. I’d mostly heard about it from a friend who lives there and runs El Ché, a beachfront restaurant. Rincón del Mar is a tiny seaside village, very peaceful, with a pretty nice beach. There are lots of small hotels and restaurants, and it’s a spot that’s likely to grow quickly in the coming years. Note: there’s no ATM there, so you’ll need to withdraw cash in San Onofre, about 30 minutes away by moto-taxi. The round trip costs around 25,000 COP. That’s also where you catch the bus to Cartagena. For accommodations, rooms were roughly 70,000–90,000 COP, with a so-so value for the price. As for things to do, I’d recommend the tour that takes you to watch the sunset in front of Bird Island, followed by a swim in a lagoon with bioluminescent plankton. The excursion (if I remember correctly) cost around 90,000 COP.

After a week in Rincón del Mar, I headed back to Cartagena and decided to fly to Yopal to visit the Río Meta. In Yopal, you’ll need to go to the bus terminal (10 minutes by taxi from the airport). From there, I took a bus to Orocué (50,000 COP) for about a 4-hour trip—it felt endless because the road was in terrible condition. Orocué is a tiny town on the banks of the Río Meta, but it has all the essentials (hotels, restaurants, ATMs). It’s lovely to stroll along the river at sunset. There are a few small bars, the area is very natural, the sunsets are stunning, and when there are distant storms, it’s just breathtaking. For lodging, I stayed at Hotel Brisas de San Miguel. It wasn’t bad—fan-cooled room for 70,000 COP. There were quite a few mosquitoes. I spent 3 days in Orocué. If you want to swim, head to the bridge (the only one), Cano San Miguel, and on the right, there’s a swimming spot. With the heat, it’s a great way to cool off.

From Orocué, I took a fast *lancha* (boat) up the Río Meta to Puerto Carreño, in the Vichada department at the far end of Colombia. This brings you to the majestic Orinoco River, right across from Venezuela. The boat ride is long—10 hours—and costs about 60 €. We left around 6 AM, with a few stops for bathroom breaks and meals along the way. But you *must* book your spot 1–2 days in advance. To do that, go to the small square above the dock—there’s a "navigation office" there. The trip was long but enjoyable. I never get tired of river journeys.

I was happy to finally arrive in Puerto Carreño, a small border town with Venezuela. No surprise that half the population was Venezuelan. In Puerto Carreño, I stayed at Hotel Delfines del Orinoco. The room was 80,000 COP, decent, with A/C, and the best part was the pool. I spent 2 nights there. One thing you *must* do—morning and evening—is hike to the top of Cerro de la Bandera (the *cerros* are huge rock formations typical of the Orinoco region, and there are many in the area). From the summit, you get amazing 360° views of the savanna and jungle. Sunrise is especially incredible. The trail is well-marked—from downtown Puerto Carreño, it takes about 20 minutes.

Next, I spent 3 nights at Rancho Barú. About an hour by boat from Puerto Carreño, you get off at Casuarito, and someone from the lodge picks you up by motorcycle for a 30-minute ride. The ranch is in the middle of the savanna, with a river/rapids beach just a 5-minute walk away. You can also fish—bites come quickly. For the lodge, one night (room or hammock) with shared bathrooms, three meals included, one excursion, plus the round-trip motorcycle ride costs 245,000 COP. An extra night without an excursion is around 100,000 COP, but you need to let the lodge know in advance so they can prepare enough food—there’s absolutely nothing for miles around.

After those 3 great days at the ranch, I took a canoe to cross into Venezuela, since Casuarito is right across from Puerto Ayacucho. The crossing costs 10,000 COP, but I got shaken down by Venezuelan immigration, who invented a violation and made me pay $40 USD. Puerto Ayacucho didn’t inspire me much. The city felt sketchy, with many hotels closed. Dealing with currency exchange was the hardest part—you *must* bring cash (USD or Colombian pesos), know the exchange rate, and find someone with enough money to exchange with you. It took me at least 2 hours. I stayed in a decent hotel downtown for $20 USD a night, but I’ll admit that going out at night—even in Puerto Ayacucho—felt pretty dodgy. All the buildings have bars on the windows, and there weren’t many people outside. I didn’t linger and found my plans to continue south too complicated. The next day, I took a bus across the country to the Brazilian border at Santa Elena de Uairén. The trip took a day and a night, with countless military checkpoints where they made everyone get off, unload all the luggage, etc. Not exactly a fun ride.

Photos: - 2 sunrises near the Orocué dock - Storm over the savanna at Rancho Barú - View of the savanna and Orinoco near Casuarito - Photo taken during the Río Meta boat trip

Hi everyone, We’re heading to Easter Island in January for 8 days. We’d love any tips— -bike or scooter rental? -hikes on foot -activities like kayaking or snorkeling -must-visit spots Thanks so much in advance!

Hi there, we’re heading to Colombia from mid-January to mid-February 2025 and we’d love to visit the Tierradentro and San Agustín sites in February. We’ve heard these sites are closed on Tuesdays during the low season—but when exactly *is* the low season? We need to plan our bus routes. Thanks in advance! Anne

Hi, we’ll be arriving at the airport and need to get to the Recoleta neighborhood. What’s the best way to get there? Are there Ubers? Our host recommends renting a car, but we don’t really see the point. Thanks

Hi there, we’re spending 2 full days in El Calafate and we’d like to visit Perito Moreno. The prices through agencies are sky-high, so I’m trying to figure out why by looking at the cost of the bus separately, park entry separately, and the boat separately. I’m still way off the total amount. From reading several blogs, it seems like we could do it ourselves by renting a car. What do you think?

After that, we saw that we could also visit other glaciers, but the agency prices for those are even more expensive. However, in this case, I don’t know if we can do it on our own...

Thanks for your help!

Le parc national de la Chapada Diamantina (aussi connu comme le Grand Canyon du Brésil) va se mettre a ouvrir petit en petit, de façon fasé et par village. Mucugé par exemple sera totallement accessible à partir du 31 aout prochain. Les seules limites qui resteront encore a clarifier sont les évenements de plus de10 personnes et les écoles. Je posterai des nouvelles des autres villages du parc dès que disponible. Le bonjour tropical de Salvador da Bahia, Ivan Bahia Guide

Bonjour,

Le Service National du Tourisme SERNATUR a publié le 14 août un petit résumé graphique de la situation actuelle du secteur dans chaque région du pays.

Il montre le pourcentage de fonctionnement des attractions touristiques, des logements, des aéroports et des gares de bus dans les seize régions du Chili.

Vous pouvez voir la carte en suivant le lien: https://www.sernatur.cl/operatividad-y-recomendaciones-de-las-regiones-del-pais/

Comme vous pouvez le constater, dans plusieurs régions, aucune attraction touristique n'est actuellement disponible. Dans deux régions, elle est à moitié disponible.

(Une petite précision importante: le petit village de San Pedro de Atacama se trouve dans la région administrative d'Antofagasta, pas dans celle d'Atacama.)

La situation des logements, des aéroports régionaux et des gares de bus est relativement meilleure.

Une bonne nouvelle néanmoins, le Parc National Torres del Paine devrait normalement réouvrir graduellement ses portes à partir du 01 septembre.

Je laisse le lien d'un article sur le sujet: https://laprensaaustral.cl/cronica/destacan-reapertura-gradual-del-paine/

(Si tout va bien, les autres parcs nationaux devraient suivre la tendance.)

En ce qui concerne la situation générale du pays, une autre discussion est disponible sur ce même forum: https://voyageforum.com/discussion/situation-actuelle-chili-d10335492/

Tout apport à la discussion est le bienvenu.

Bonne chance.