The Via Rhôna: 700 kilometers by bike from Lake Geneva to the sea! (Travel journal and video, July 2018)
FR

Translated into English.

Original post
FC
Hey everyone, travelers! Here’s a little post to share our bike trip this summer. We did the Via Rhôna from Geneva all the way to the Mediterranean Sea. It was a truly amazing adventure—no hitches, lots of independent greenways, and we felt like we had the Rhône all to ourselves as our guide for 700 km over 7 days. That averages out to 100 km a day. We thought we’d do less, but the Via Rhôna is flat and not too tiring, which let us push to around 100 km each day!

Here’s the full video of our route: www.youtube.com/watch?v=x_cpBro6Df8

We’re not seasoned cyclists—we just love biking, and this trip was our first big bike touring adventure. As for our bikes (see photo), we had road bikes, sturdy ones with fairly large wheels and rear racks for our gear.

Speaking of gear, here’s what we brought: just the essentials for 7 days of biking and camping—1 tent for 2, two sleeping bags, a few clothes (not too many), 1 book each, toiletries, phone chargers, a basic bike repair kit... and maybe 2 or 3 things I’m forgetting. The idea is to travel light so you’re carrying as little as possible!

We camped every night. Along the Rhône, it’s pretty easy to find campgrounds, and they’re cheap too! Each morning, we’d decide on our destination for the evening (usually based on available campgrounds) and call during the day to book. We always managed to get a spot right away (except when we reached the Mediterranean coast, but we should’ve seen that coming 😛).

For expenses, we slept at campgrounds (between 15 and 25 € per site for 2) and either picnicked or ate at restaurants. Other than that, there weren’t really any other costs besides a few small souvenirs here and there. In total, we spent about 500 € for two over 7 days (so 35 € per person per day). I think it’s possible to spend even less—we decided not to restrict ourselves when it came to restaurants and campground prices.

For us, the most beautiful part was between Geneva and Lyon! The Rhône is still a bit wild there, as are its banks. Not too many roads, highways, trains, or factories around—just nature and peace. You gradually leave the Alps behind and head further south. It was truly stunning. We also loved the "Rhône Valley" after Lyon. The succession of dozens of suspension bridges and little villages, each more charming than the last, really enchanted us.

The trickiest part was leaving Lyon... The Via Rhôna disappears for a long stretch, forcing you to alternate between roads, traffic, danger, and pollution. We had to wait until Givors, further south, to finally get back to the quiet bike path and the Rhône showing us the way. Also, after Lyon, the Rhône becomes a bit more industrial—you pass by dams, factories, and power plants more often. But it’s really just a small detail, the exception that proves the rule of this magnificent Via Rhôna.

The Via Rhôna is a fantastic way to see how water from the mountains of Lake Geneva flows, travels, and winds its way for hundreds of kilometers to reach the sea. With this trip, you get closer to the Rhône—it becomes your accomplice, your guide. Plus, you cross a beautiful part of France, with its charm and little villages. It’s the France we love, and it’s great to explore your own country like a tourist.

That’s it for our little travel journal. I didn’t go into too much detail about our days since everyone will follow the same route, and everyone can go at their own pace :) But I’m happy to answer any questions (logistics, technical stuff, routes, etc.)—I’d be glad to help!

Here’s the video of our route again—I also composed the music, so I hope you’ll like it: www.youtube.com/watch?v=x_cpBro6Df8

Happy travels,

Flo
CB Cbandiera Globetrotter ·
bravo claudio
Claudio de la Faverges. Bonjour amis cyclotouristes, claude passionné de voyages à vélo favergien et défenseur du cycliste. plus la carte bleue est foncée et plus le bagage est léger en anglais "the more the card is blu the less the luggage is heavy"
FA Fanragnotti Regular ·
Hi Florent,

Great video! I only know the Via Rhôna from La Voulte to Orange, but I really enjoyed it. You get quite a shake-up on the Rochemaure footbridge—sometimes you end up going the wrong way, sometimes it’s all over the place. In Cruas, the noise from the wind turbines is deafening, but it’s still really fun. I definitely plan to do the whole route!

Serge
LH Lhorizon Veteran ·
Good evening and congratulations because I found everything really nice: your story, your video, your (too) few photos, and your journey.

Three quick questions for my reference: what camera did you use, where was it mounted, and did you have a stabilizer?

Thanks.
Le blog voyages : http://derrierelhorizon.fr/accueil/
AR ARom77 ·
Awesome video, thanks!

I’m from Lyon and I often ride the ViaRhôna. The Lyon–Givors section has been a major pain point for years... and progress is way too slow! What I usually do is take a detour through Vénissieux, Corbas, Marennes, climb the small Bel-Air pass, then go through Villette-de-Vienne and Vienne to reconnect with the ViaRhôna. With a good GPS to navigate Lyon, it’s perfect.

Anyway, congrats, and I hope this inspires you to keep traveling by bike!
Le mieux est le mortel ennemi du bien

— de Montesquieu
CB Cbandiera Globetrotter ·
True, Lyon to Givors isn’t obvious, but with a bit of local knowledge, a GPS, or a good guide like Claudio’s from La Faverges, you can make it—it’s even pretty thrilling to weave through all that chaos like a cat!

On the EAST side, that’s actually what Claudio’s been recommending for 15 years.

In October 2018, Claudio tested the route via the A7!! And it works, plus they’re currently redoing the bike path between Saint-Fons and Irigny.

After that, toward Vernaison, there are bike lanes—not very glamorous, admittedly.

From Vernaison to Givors, you follow the towpath—it’s pure Indiana Jones!

http://cbandiera.free.fr/parcours/le-rhone-a-velo/topo/

http://cbandiera.free.fr/parcours/le-rhone-a-velo/vr-lyon-ouest/

http://cbandiera.free.fr/recits/2013-viarhona/e2z2.php

claudio
Claudio de la Faverges. Bonjour amis cyclotouristes, claude passionné de voyages à vélo favergien et défenseur du cycliste. plus la carte bleue est foncée et plus le bagage est léger en anglais "the more the card is blu the less the luggage is heavy"
FC FCtravel Regular ·
Hi there! Thanks for your message.

The camera I used is a GoPro Hero 5 Black. I think it stabilizes the videos automatically. Plus, I use a handlebar mount for the GoPro (easy to find in appliance or sports stores), which keeps the camera really steady on the bike, and the result is stable.

Flo
CB Cbandiera Globetrotter ·
Plus, video editing software can stabilize the footage now.

claudio
Claudio de la Faverges. Bonjour amis cyclotouristes, claude passionné de voyages à vélo favergien et défenseur du cycliste. plus la carte bleue est foncée et plus le bagage est léger en anglais "the more the card is blu the less the luggage is heavy"
TO Tof74 Regular ·
Really nice video! Thanks for sharing, it’s giving me ideas... Safe travels! Tof
Tof74

http://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=letof74170&oq=letof74170&aq=f&aqi=&aql=&gs_sm=e&gs_upl=6094l9660l0l10313l10l10l0l5l5l0l376l1031l1.0.2.1l4l0
FC FCtravel Regular ·
Thanks for your message, Serge! The Via Rhona from La Voulte to Orange is indeed a stunning section! I hope you get the chance to ride the stretches further north or south—the rest of the Via Rhôna is just as beautiful.

The Rochemaure footbridge is breathtaking; it’s one of my standout memories from the Via Rhôna. What an incredible structure made available for us cyclists! You really feel privileged.

Did you spot that famous Rochemaure footbridge in the video, by the way? At 1:58: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x_cpBro6Df8

Happy trails,

Flo
RC Rcolbayard05 Regular ·
Amazing adventure route, great video—it really makes you want to go! Are the trails mostly paved?
régis
CB Cbandiera Globetrotter ·
90% paved but quite a few roots and an area where you can get lost in the countryside and woods from Lyon to Geneva, for example

http://cbandiera.free.fr/recits/2018-jura-bresse-saone/F/86.html claudio
Claudio de la Faverges. Bonjour amis cyclotouristes, claude passionné de voyages à vélo favergien et défenseur du cycliste. plus la carte bleue est foncée et plus le bagage est léger en anglais "the more the card is blu the less the luggage is heavy"
FA Fanragnotti Regular ·
Good evening Florent,

I watched your great video carefully, so I spotted the Rochemaure footbridge—the tunnel looks like the one in Comps, right? I think I passed through it recently during my trip to the Pont du Gard. Lovely bike path! In Tarascon, I turned off toward Les Alpilles.

Serge
AM Amarok88 Regular ·
Awesome video! Great pace, good music, beautiful images—it’s all perfect!
CB Cbandiera Globetrotter ·
claudio did it 3 times in 2018, the last one in Oct 2018 report in progress no video this time but photos showing the state of the route between Geneva and Valence via Lyon some pluses and a few minor issues stay tuned

it’s less fun, but if it can help some fellow cyclists http://cbandiera.free.fr/recits/2018-viarhona-oct/

Claudio de la Faverges. Bonjour amis cyclotouristes, claude passionné de voyages à vélo favergien et défenseur du cycliste. plus la carte bleue est foncée et plus le bagage est léger en anglais "the more the card is blu the less the luggage is heavy"
FC FCtravel Regular ·
The tunnel is a few kilometers before Beaucaire in the Gard! It's 100% reserved for cyclists—perfect!

Flo
FC FCtravel Regular ·
Thanks so much for your message, it’s really nice to hear!

Flo
CB Cbandiera Globetrotter ·
The tunnel is on the greenway from Comps to Pont du Gard, heading toward Beaucaire and the south when following the ViaRhôna.

cbandiera.free.fr/vv/beaucaire-comps/

cbandiera.free.fr/...ire-comps/photos.php

claudio
Claudio de la Faverges. Bonjour amis cyclotouristes, claude passionné de voyages à vélo favergien et défenseur du cycliste. plus la carte bleue est foncée et plus le bagage est léger en anglais "the more the card is blu the less the luggage is heavy"
RC Rcolbayard05 Regular ·
Thanks for the info, Claudio! Even if a trail is never perfect, the surface is decent! I’m planning to check out this greenway in the spring...
régis
FA Fanragnotti Regular ·
Hi Claudio

Thanks for the info. I went through there on 15/09. After the tunnel, I turned left and went to see the Vallabrègues dam, then the village of Vallabrègues. After that, I turned back, took the bike path again, and in Beaucaire, I headed left toward the Alpilles. I took the bike path from Saint-Étienne-du-Grès to Saint-Rémy-de-Provence, then some small roads (EuroVelo 8) through the orchards, and I camped in Cavaillon.

When can we expect your report on your latest trip?

See you soon,

Serge
CB Cbandiera Globetrotter ·
I’ve almost finished the photos The story should follow soon claudio
Claudio de la Faverges. Bonjour amis cyclotouristes, claude passionné de voyages à vélo favergien et défenseur du cycliste. plus la carte bleue est foncée et plus le bagage est léger en anglais "the more the card is blu the less the luggage is heavy"
FA Fanragnotti Regular ·
Hi Florian,

Often, cyclists go all the way down to Port Saint Louis du Rhône to see the Rhône flow into the sea, then enter the heart of the Camargue via the Barcarin ferry, so they end up in Salin de Giraud. (There’s a brand-new campsite that just opened—I’m supposed to test it out next Easter.) They ride along the sea dike—it’s stunning—arrive at Les Saintes-Maries-de-la-Mer, a really pretty typical village, and then head to Sète. Basically, they complete the loop from Avignon back to Avignon.

Serge
CB Cbandiera Globetrotter ·
And there you go!

In pictures:

http://cbandiera.free.fr/recits/2018-viarhona-oct/F/

For the story, I need to jog my memory and find my travel journal... Claudio

Claudio de la Faverges. Bonjour amis cyclotouristes, claude passionné de voyages à vélo favergien et défenseur du cycliste. plus la carte bleue est foncée et plus le bagage est léger en anglais "the more the card is blu the less the luggage is heavy"
CB Cbandiera Globetrotter ·
4 times this year

http://cbandiera.free.fr/recits/index1.php

claudio
Claudio de la Faverges. Bonjour amis cyclotouristes, claude passionné de voyages à vélo favergien et défenseur du cycliste. plus la carte bleue est foncée et plus le bagage est léger en anglais "the more the card is blu the less the luggage is heavy"
CB Cbandiera Globetrotter ·
The story is progressing It's mostly in the morning that inspiration comes back to me and since it only lasts a few minutes, the story drags on

http://cbandiera.free.fr/recits/2018-viarhona-oct/e2.php
Claudio de la Faverges. Bonjour amis cyclotouristes, claude passionné de voyages à vélo favergien et défenseur du cycliste. plus la carte bleue est foncée et plus le bagage est léger en anglais "the more the card is blu the less the luggage is heavy"
FA Fanragnotti Regular ·
Hey Claudio,

No problem, I really like your photos showcasing our beautiful rural FRANCE and the well-mannered comments that go with them. I’m right in the middle of olive picking—no time to hop on the bike. The weather here is gray and threatening. On Thursday, I tried going out and ended up with a more than memorable shower!

Serge
FC FCtravel Regular ·
Hi Serge,

Yes, there are several possible routes at the end of the Via Rhôna when you reach the Camargue. You can choose to follow the "big" Rhône and see it flow into the Mediterranean at Port Saint Louis du Rhône, or follow the "little Rhône" and then the Rhône-to-Sète canal to Le Grau du Roi and also reach the sea.

We chose the second route (since we were heading back up to Montpellier). I think both paths are worth it and must be stunning. The Camargue is truly a beautiful region—it’s a joy to cycle through such a wild place!

Flo
RO Rogerd Veteran ·
Thanks for this amazing video. I’ve ridden the ViaRhôna, but I never get tired of seeing all these beautiful places again thanks to your film.
CB Cbandiera Globetrotter ·
after N+1 trips, Claudio in his guide describes all these options

example in 2016 Saintes-Maries-de-la-Mer (abandoned by ViaRhôna) and the sea dike http://cbandiera.free.fr/recits/2016-arles-marseille/F/83.html
Claudio de la Faverges. Bonjour amis cyclotouristes, claude passionné de voyages à vélo favergien et défenseur du cycliste. plus la carte bleue est foncée et plus le bagage est léger en anglais "the more the card is blu the less the luggage is heavy"
FA Fanragnotti Regular ·
Hey Claudio

Great photos, I love the Camargue. After passing the Barcarin ferry, there’s a really special vibe. Your photos of Les Saintes are from Monday, March 15, 2016—funny enough, I was there with my buddy Jean Paul on Saturday, March 20, 2016, according to my archives!

Serge
CB Cbandiera Globetrotter ·
indeed this place is endorphin-inducing back in 2009, Claudio stumbled upon a Hitchcock-style bird takeoff

http://cbandiera.free.fr/recits/viarhona-2009-2/etape-5.php
Claudio de la Faverges. Bonjour amis cyclotouristes, claude passionné de voyages à vélo favergien et défenseur du cycliste. plus la carte bleue est foncée et plus le bagage est léger en anglais "the more the card is blu the less the luggage is heavy"
FC FCtravel Regular ·
Hi Roger!

Thanks for your message—it means a lot coming from someone who knows the Via Rhôna so well!

That’s exactly the point of the video: to share as many beautiful images of the Via Rhôna as possible. To bring back memories or inspire new travel plans... Thanks!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x_cpBro6Df8&t=1s

Flo :)
CB Cbandiera Globetrotter ·
Claudio's breakdown After this 44th on-site ride

http://cbandiera.free.fr/parcours/le-rhone-a-velo/topo/

http://cbandiera.free.fr/recits/2018-viarhona-oct/T/telecharger-E.php

A video by Claudio

It's more technical and aims to be informative and sometimes activist to improve a few points

https://youtu.be/Vm-irmiJv-Y
Claudio de la Faverges. Bonjour amis cyclotouristes, claude passionné de voyages à vélo favergien et défenseur du cycliste. plus la carte bleue est foncée et plus le bagage est léger en anglais "the more the card is blu the less the luggage is heavy"
CB Cbandiera Globetrotter ·
I even made this PDF just for you

http://cbandiera.free.fr/recits/2018-viarhona-oct/T/telecharger-E.php

claudio, from La Faverges
Claudio de la Faverges. Bonjour amis cyclotouristes, claude passionné de voyages à vélo favergien et défenseur du cycliste. plus la carte bleue est foncée et plus le bagage est léger en anglais "the more the card is blu the less the luggage is heavy"
FA Fanragnotti Regular ·
thanks Claudio

finally got your inspiration back—great report! The Cusset hydroelectric plant is stunning. What amazing work the old-timers did with so few resources. Love that Jonage canal and the lakes

Serge
CB Cbandiera Globetrotter ·
Absolutely! It’s a beautiful route in Lyon. You can head to Lib and do the "Grand Large" loop—like a climb in the off-season, it’s pretty endorphin-boosting! http://cbandiera.free.fr/recits/2016-geneve-lyon/F/53.html

Of course, you can also take the train to Lyon and do the ~50 km loop.

Plus, Claudio shared a great cyclo-friendly guesthouse address—it’s even in his guidebook! But… shhh… http://cbandiera.free.fr/parcours/le-rhone-a-velo/topo/

claudio, still from Faverges
Claudio de la Faverges. Bonjour amis cyclotouristes, claude passionné de voyages à vélo favergien et défenseur du cycliste. plus la carte bleue est foncée et plus le bagage est léger en anglais "the more the card is blu the less the luggage is heavy"
FA Fanragnotti Regular ·
Great photos!

The blue ring is really nice—cycling in Lyon is amazing, with all these parks like Tête d'Or, Miribel, Jonage, and Freyssine. There’s plenty to do!

Serge
BA Balzinger ·
Hello fellow cyclists😉 Well done on your trip! I myself did part of the ViaRhôna in June. I share your enthusiasm for the route of this itinerary, and I’m chiming in about the southern Lyon section, which is indeed very dangerous. I was strongly advised to skip that stretch. So I took the train from Lyon Part-Dieu to Givors to avoid that area. It’s a real shame that a better route isn’t being considered at the moment.

My own adventure was along the Rhine in Alsace all the way to Menton (06), following the Rhône-au-Rhin, the Doubs, the Saône, the Rhône to Arles, then the Provençal hinterland to Monaco. It was a truly superb ride, very smooth except for the slightly hilly southeastern part. A bit like you in terms of average daily distance—1,300 km in thirteen days. Plus, I was spoiled by the weather: not a drop of rain and a tailwind for two-thirds of the route. That’s not my usual luck!

Hoping that in the future, the crossing through Lyon will be more bike-friendly.

Cheers,

Kikibal
CB Cbandiera Globetrotter ·
south of Lyon, you can get there— they’ve even marked it with the ViaRhôna route. It’s doable, but a few sections are, let’s say… a little stressful. And yet, some minor improvements could make a big difference. But Claudio and many associations have been saying this for 20 years. Claudio studied 9 possible routes.

http://cbandiera.free.fr/parcours/le-rhone-a-velo/vr-lyon-ouest/
Claudio de la Faverges. Bonjour amis cyclotouristes, claude passionné de voyages à vélo favergien et défenseur du cycliste. plus la carte bleue est foncée et plus le bagage est léger en anglais "the more the card is blu the less the luggage is heavy"
PI Piterpan44 ·
Thanks for this great report—just a heads-up for others in case... I made it all the way to the end of this route, meaning Port Louis, with about 40 km of stunning path after Arles. However, after that, there’s absolutely nothing left, and it’s a nightmare to reach Marseille (with over 20 km on a national highway, heavily used by trucks and, at times, without even a shoulder to ride on!).

On the way back, thanks to a friendly mountain biker I met by chance, I took a detour after Istres via Saint-Martin-de-Crau—just small roads with only about 4–5 km of admittedly rocky but very rideable path.

I stopped by the Arles tourist office to leave them the route (did they keep it?). Because whether it’s this one or Marseille’s, aside from nice brochures on the completed sections of the Via Rhôna, there’s little info on options available for cycle tourists.

If there’s any update on this section, I’d love to hear about it...

PS: For tunnel lovers, there’s an amazing cycling path in Wuppertal (Germany) with over 30 km of dedicated lanes, including several tunnels—some over a kilometer long! I did it this summer and loved it!
CU Cube18 Regular ·
Hi there, and congrats on this journey that ends up where I live! Loved the video too. Best, Rv.
Rv.
CB Cbandiera Globetrotter ·
Claudio keeps the ViaRhona info up to date in his excellent guidebook here: cbandiera.free.fr/...e-rhone-a-velo/topo/

As for Arles to Marseille—well, it’s no joke! Here’s Claudio’s free study after several on-site trips: cbandiera.free.fr/...marseilleclaudio.php cbandiera.free.fr/...les/louis-istres.php cbandiera.free.fr/...-marseille/F/90.html



Claudio de la Faverges. Bonjour amis cyclotouristes, claude passionné de voyages à vélo favergien et défenseur du cycliste. plus la carte bleue est foncée et plus le bagage est léger en anglais "the more the card is blu the less the luggage is heavy"
FC FCtravel Regular ·
Thanks for the comment! Glad to see the video is appealing to more and more people!

You say the Via Rhôna passes by your place? Lucky you! At what point does it go through?

Flo
CB Cbandiera Globetrotter ·
there are still a few major trouble spots left

in Avirignin (but it's in progress)

in Anthon (scandal)

after Vernaison (in progress)

Avignon exit

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IjP4rkwMK-8&t=1s

arrival in Sète (but it's in progress)

claudio
Claudio de la Faverges. Bonjour amis cyclotouristes, claude passionné de voyages à vélo favergien et défenseur du cycliste. plus la carte bleue est foncée et plus le bagage est léger en anglais "the more the card is blu the less the luggage is heavy"
CU Cube18 Regular ·
Hi there. Le Grau-du-Roi. Thanks to the bike paths, especially here, it's safer for bike rides... but it lacks a few hills... oh well, given my age, my motivation isn’t what it used to be... so I’ll take what I can get. Happy trails to you both! Best, Rv.
Rv.
CB Cbandiera Globetrotter ·
There are a few bridges you can power through and some hills not too far into the hinterland. In Sète, the climb up Mont Saint-Clair can be tough.
Claudio de la Faverges. Bonjour amis cyclotouristes, claude passionné de voyages à vélo favergien et défenseur du cycliste. plus la carte bleue est foncée et plus le bagage est léger en anglais "the more the card is blu the less the luggage is heavy"
CU Cube18 Regular ·
with that, no risk of getting tired; not long enough for me... I know the Gard area well, and to get some good hills, you’ve gotta take the car and get closer... thanks anyway!!! Cheers..
Rv.
FC FCtravel Regular ·
Hi everyone!

I was wondering if anyone has already done the Via Rhôna in its entirety, from the source of the Rhône in Switzerland? I’ve heard about this route, which must be pretty incredible too. The journey starts at the Rhône Glacier in the Swiss Alps. It must be amazing to go from the glacier all the way to the sea!

For my part, just going from Lake Geneva to the Mediterranean was a really great experience. Now I’d love to do the stretch between the lake and the Rhône Glacier!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x_cpBro6Df8&t=9s

Flo
CB Cbandiera Globetrotter ·
claudio did it From Geneva to the source, round trip, and then after a few days of warrior rest, from Geneva to Lyon to Sète. But others have also done more of it. This route is called the EuroVelo 17.

cbandiera.free.fr/vv/euros/euro-velo-17/

Watch out, it climbs! But you can reach the source by... bus or train, and yes, it’s not France, it’s Switzerland. This time, it was a bit cut short because of... age... cbandiera.free.fr/recits/2017-andermatt/

But here, in 2007: cbandiera.free.fr/...rces-rhone/index.php

http://cbandiera.free.fr/recits/2007-sources-rhone/photos/



Claudio de la Faverges. Bonjour amis cyclotouristes, claude passionné de voyages à vélo favergien et défenseur du cycliste. plus la carte bleue est foncée et plus le bagage est léger en anglais "the more the card is blu the less the luggage is heavy"
RO Rogerd Veteran ·
I’ve covered the French section and I’m planning to do the Swiss part between Andermatt and Geneva.

The route guide is ready: mesrandosvelo.e-monsite.com/...andermatt-geneve...

Must-visit site: www.schweizmobil.ch/...a-velo/route-01.html

Essential guide: www.cartovelo.fr/...o-xml-34_25-343.html

Homestays for cyclists: velodach.ch/joomla/index.php/fr/

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