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Inside South Africa (page 10 of 11)

Discussion started by Voyajou on 2016-10-30

212 replies

This thread has been translated into English.


Inside South Africa

Dolma · 2018-11-28 · Message 181 of 213

And there we go! First page of the travel journals!

These words are still so much nicer to read than the ones in yellow—and often black—that have been thrown at us from all directions lately!

Dolma

Inside South Africa

Voyajou · 2018-12-14 · Message 182 of 213

Tricolour

It’s a tasting organised by a connoisseur. Tapas and wines. We start calmly with a white, a Chardonnay from Ataraxia paired with kingklip rillettes. Next up, a Pinot Noir rosΓ© from Fat Bastard, chorizo, and feta. Tongues start wagging when the Petit Verdot red from Plaisir de Merle vineyards arrives with kudu biltong. The trick then is not to cross the Rubicon—and to make sure you don’t go too far. *

Sad Rainbow

Beanies, vests, shirts. Brown, yellow, red. The sans-culottes have thrived over the past two centuries. Here, many are still without trousers, and the political professionals who promised them the Blood Moon to secure their own nests—and make a living speaking on their behalf—wear red overalls when they sit in Parliament, where they’re quick to throw a punch. Ruffians whose revolutionary hopes stand no chance of being backed by foreign powers, who’ve been put off by the Zimbabwean adventure. The goal is to cut the gentlemen in tailcoats down to size, but where demagoguery makes its bed, democracy unravels. *

JoJo’s Good Fortune

Since the rain stopped in the Great Karoo, people have installed gutters connected to plastic tanks that look like boils on the houses. A curse the few drifting clouds ignore. JoJo’s trucks crisscross the countryside loaded with these useless canisters. For the same reasons, rain gauges are popping up everywhere. Still, the wind doesn’t let up. I’m thinking of handing out anemometers. *

Somewhere Else If I’m There

Until recently, they stood at the entrance of the only local supermarket. A few disabled people, old folks, the sickly. All clearly unable to work—even if there *were* jobs—they begged for a coin or some bread, which people gave willingly. The new management, hailing from cities where you pay security guards to patrol shopping centre parking lots, decided enough was enough. That it was disturbing customers’ peace. Banned from the premises, they’ve retreated to the petrol station-cum-grocery store, but it’s far less lucrative, and they’re insulted when they block the forecourt. *

Christmas Market

We’re invited to the opening of the annual exhibition organised by the thirty or so local painters, kicking off a week of open studios. Everyone’s polished to perfection—women with manicured nails, men scrubbed clean. Stiff brush, soft bristle, knife-sharp face, ink portrait, ochre makeup, exfoliation, or sponge. Show me your face, and I’ll tell you your work (and be wrong almost every time). *

Immanuel

Five forty-something men, an a cappella quintet with voices as complementary as strings. United like the fingers plucking them. Since we won’t be here for Christmas when they’ll perform for the first time at the city theatre, they’ve agreed to let us sit in on a rehearsal. It’ll be the first time they sing together. The township has more churches than banks but fewer than shebeens, and each church prides itself on its choir. These guys are the choir masters of theirs. In a spirit of ecumenism, they’re bonding through laughter between songs they perform as solemnly as popes. The intensity of the first one is overwhelming. I know one of them well—he’s a house painter by day. Last week, he asked me what was happening in France. What did the yellow jackets want, and what would President Macron do? He teases us that the next song is Immanuel (roughly: *If He is with us, who can stand against us?*). *

Inside South Africa

Magryelle · 2018-12-17 · Message 183 of 213

Five forty-something men, an a cappella quintet, voices as complementary as strings. As united as the fingers that pluck them.

Lovely prose as always, and this one especially—5 voices like the lines of a staff and 6 strings on a guitar. I’d have loved to hear them. The Karoo in the rain must be quite a sight. Flowers? Anyway, happy holidays to you all!

Inside South Africa

Kola · 2018-12-18 · Message 184 of 213

Hand-stitched with silk thread or barbed wire, tightly embroidering new patterns onto this contrasting tableau: poverty amid abundance, the moon in a stormy sky, the brotherhood that unites voices, the metallic gaze that lashes out at those (but especially those who) have the misfortune to displease, the hope for rain... and always a skeptical eye turned toward the country to which one must return.

Pigeons, red ants, the small creatures have replaced the big ones—some no less dangerous—and beneath the domestic troubles, the melancholy of wide-open spaces lingers. Sedentary life is also an adventure, but perhaps tinged with nostalgia, the nostalgia of the time of wandering... aimlessly and in places where silence could still drown out the world’s cacophony.

Over there (or here), yellow is a bright, peaceful color, showing off in the savanna, lighting up sparkles in the eyes of felines and stars in the night. Here (or over there), yellow is the peaceful weapon of sincere despair, the color of revolutions that bloom on the pavement before shattering against cynicism.

You’d say that the little of here is often more than the much of over there, but should we measure the wealth of some by the torment of others and condemn those who, here or over there, try to forge different paths? Or should we simply lean into events, watch them pass as attentive observers, and with each journey, pull a few silken threads from over there that will enrich, here, this travel journal—and so much more—where every unfinished page hints at a new departure...

Inside South Africa

Asaa · 2018-12-18 · Message 185 of 213

Hand-stitched silk thread...

What a lovely discovery, this silk thread! Lapsus or not?

Inside South Africa

Diamina · 2018-12-18 · Message 186 of 213

Hey there...

I think I already posted a selfie in a previous travel journal (I was at the fork of a tree, in full Tarzan-doubting mode).

I remember a photo of you with a blissfully clueless ostrich face in the middle of a horde of ostriches...

Inside South Africa

Doppio · 2018-12-20 · Message 187 of 213

Wow! You write so well—every sentence is a piece of an epic. It’s lyrical and fantastic, all these little things that magically turn into nature’s masterpieces, things that most people wouldn’t even notice.

Inside South Africa

Voyajou · 2018-12-21 · Message 188 of 213

5 voices like the lines of a staff

A staff where notes that transport nest...

The Karoo in the rain must be quite a unique sight.

While in Brittany it’s common (in the Karoo, three months without a drop except to gather dust; since arriving in Brittany three days ago: three days of non-stop rain). It’s the change.

(www.birdsdessines.fr)

Inside South Africa

Voyajou · 2018-12-28 · Message 189 of 213

Thanks for your kind and attentive reading of my scribbles. πŸ™‚

Since returning to this navel of the world, I’ve read analyses and met Yellow Vests, especially at a roundabout in a posh Parisian suburb (I brought them chestnuts, a turkey gave me some sweet chestnuts in return).

and always a skeptical eye turned toward the country we’ll have to return to.

This perspective seems shared by most foreign observers or expats. I’m probably ethnocentric without realizing it.

Over there (or here), yellow is a color (…) that shines in the savanna,

In South Africa, I’d heard the information without paying much attention. It was only upon returning, skimming a report over the savanna of that country, that I grasped the scale of the problem. Two ways of life at odds, competing for resource sharing. Skirmishes turning into pitched battles. Looting. Deaths. Provisional toll of the conflict of interest between herders and farmers in Nigeria: 3,600 dead. Incomparable, indeed, with the current situation in France.

You’d say that the little here is often more than the much over there, but should we measure one’s wealth by the others’ struggles?

Isn’t comparing the very reflex of the French, the one that makes them jump? Can we consider purchasing power? While the tax percentage in price formation is much lower, a liter of fuel in South Africa costs a minimum-wage worker (say, someone maintaining roundabouts) 60 minutes of work. In poor France, the same purchase would take only 8 minutes of their time...

Here (or over there), yellow is the peaceful weapon of sincere despair,

Peaceful? After intimidation of the press, xenophobic, sexist, homophobic, and antisemitic remarks, it’s painting reality in rosy hues. The movement’s protean nature doesn’t absolve it of responsibility. Γ‰ric Drouet? A stew that democracy can’t digest.

the color of revolutions that bloom on the pavement before shattering against cynicism

Against reality.

Or should we simply lean into events, watch them pass as attentive observers and...

...and stay silent? That would be more comfortable, indeed. And I admit the futility would be the same.

Inside South Africa

Voyajou · 2018-12-29 · Message 190 of 213

What a lovely discovery this thread is Lapsus or not?

It’s rare to catch Kola making a spelling mistake. Two in the same sentence would be a stretch! πŸ˜‡

Inside South Africa

Voyajou · 2018-12-29 · Message 191 of 213

I remember a photo of you with a blissful ostrich face

Animal mime is my job. I was thinking of the photo below (from a 2015 travel journal, I think) that I’d considered using as an avatar for the V-shape formed by the branches. πŸ˜‰

Inside South Africa

Diamina · 2018-12-29 · Message 192 of 213

hi V...ou

I was thinking about the photo below (in a 2015 travel journal, I think) that I’d considered using as an avatar for the V shape formed by the branches.

I burst out laughing when I opened the photo!!!! πŸ˜πŸ˜„ An avatar for the V or for the cheeky side!!!πŸ˜› Monkeys are such fun animals!!!

Inside South Africa

Rjulie95 · 2018-12-29 · Message 193 of 213

Monkeys are really super friendly animals!!!

You weren’t saying that at Pilanesberg when one tried to snatch your food, though πŸ˜›

Inside South Africa

Diamina · 2018-12-29 · Message 194 of 213

You weren’t saying that in Pilanesberg when he tried to steal your food

Well... because I’m a lioness, and I don’t tolerate being bothered, especially when it comes to snatching my hard-earned meal. But when it’s about their attitudes... they’re just too cute... πŸ˜‰

Anyway, to all of you... happy holidays and big hugs

Inside South Africa

Asaa · 2018-12-29 · Message 195 of 213

What a lovely discovery this thread is! Lapsus or not?

It’s rare to catch Kola making a spelling mistake. Two in the same sentence would be tough! πŸ˜‡

Yessss, it’s tough—but Candy Kola?

Inside South Africa

Voyajou · 2019-03-18 · Message 196 of 213

On the way!

I had to book the tickets at the last minute, and the intercontinental transfer wasn’t exactly a walk in the park. Who else but a Breton heading for distant lands gets the chance to stop over at Marne-la-VallΓ©e station? A stopover, you say? More like a stay: fifty minutes between two trains. I drag myself to the cursed square, where the station itself looks quaint. The view of the attractions is like an invitation. A blimp rises, held by a cable. It must be possible to release that mooring, but the wind is blowing from the south. Flying over the poles to get to South Africa—even for the romantic vibe—doesn’t exactly thrill me. I call on Harry Potter, who fails to reverse Aeolus’s breath (his so-called powers are just hot air!), and Buffalo Bill refuses to help me hijack the circus balloon. Many—kids with mitigating circumstances, but not just them—leave the place with an extra pair of ears, either fake fur or plastic: what’s going on between those four ears? *

Class struggle

The economy class on the first plane is only three-quarters full. Business class is even worse (or better, depending on how you see it): six seats occupied out of about twenty available. Paradoxically, on this route, the least unprofitable class for the airline is first class—except it doesn’t exist. The second flight is packed: Ethiopian, which is at home in Addis, crams us into a much smaller plane. *

Bzz bzz buzziness

South of Addis Ababa, about twenty buildings are under (mediocre) construction. Packed tightly together, each stacking ten floors with around fifty units. Thousands of female workers who used to forage in the savanna will soon be crammed in there. In ten years, when their competitiveness fades, the world’s factories will move on. They’ll be left behind, their wings atrophied. *

Breaking the ice

In chic Stellenbosch, I walk with a bouquet in hand. It’s a simple, elegant, and minimalist arrangement of proteas and fynbos that seems everlasting. A magical bouquet that earns me smiles from women aged seven to seventy-seven—smiles I never get when my hands are in my pockets (apparently, they don’t like one-armed guys). It feels so good that I catch myself smiling. Until a young man whispers, "You’re so romantic!" *

The world as it goes

Not even in inclusive writing would I tell you about that transgender organic farmer turned GMO salad manufacturer in a vertical farm built on the side of a building. Transgression isn’t my style.

On school forms, the terms "father & mother" have been replaced with: parent 1, parent 2. Parent alpha, parent beta—but reversible.

In Brittany, in the estuary below my place, the beautiful sea bass no longer spawn undisturbed, bothered by the constant back-and-forth of floating plastic—boats.

Here, in supermarkets, fruits, vegetables, poultry, and pork are inedible from having lost their roots.

Last trip advisor: The funeral home asks the orphan to fill out a satisfaction survey. She tells them to go to hell. *

Your kind!

At Addis Ababa airport, adjacent departure gates for two flights to South Africa, taking off twenty minutes apart. Without counting the Indians (we’ll get back to them), to Cape Town: 70% white, 30% Black; to Johannesburg, the opposite.

In Cape Town, sixteen border police counters open for a 300-seat plane. For the first time in a dozen years, I see a white woman in one of the booths.

The Swartland vineyard (black country) produces mediocre-quality wines. Despite its promise of plum and banana, this rosΓ© (a hybrid?) Blanc de Noir is no exception.

On a campaign poster, the liberal candidate for Premier of the province promises equitable access to employment. Here, for a quarter-century, affirmative action has favored Black applicants for public-sector jobs—officially, even if it means hiring less qualified candidates. The candidate is white; his name is Winde (wind).

Everywhere, history is being revisited. Statues are being promoted, then torn down. Now, another victim: Gandhi. The global icon is criticized for remarks he made while a lawyer in South Africa—and later. He considered it "undignified" for Indians to be lumped in with natives rather than whites and argued that Europeans and Indians were of the same stock. *

6... 9... 12 mm

It’s not the calibers lined up on the rack but the result of the deafening rattle of hailstones on tin roofs, methodically peppering the sheep’s floor. For the first time in months, 12 mm of rain fell in less than an hour. What would slide off a gull’s feathers in Brittany is a blessing here. *

The Chinese women

Of course, there’s Mrs. Zuckerberg. But isn’t it a Western conspiracy against China—where there’s a well-known gender deficit—that the son of John the Irishman and Sonia the South African, and the son of Philip the South African and Mariejke the Flemish, both globe-trotters like others take the bus, are married to Chinese women? *

Dagobert

On the street, the paleness of his thighs streaking his black jeans—pre-ripped in China—crosses paths with his Yin: a young woman whose long black legs stripe her white jeans, just as shredded. If they swapped, the poverty would still be less visible.

When a burly Afrikaner drops off a pair of pants he’s tired of at the charity shop, the San seamstresses split them again to clothe their little tall men, slender as arrows. *

S.O.S. Plumbing (flight as a crime)

"Flight" sums up Zimbabwe’s missteps over nearly four decades (this country at the end of the last century is what Venezuela is at the start of the 21st: sitting on natural treasures, ruined by dogma). First, the flight of farmers, then the capital that followed, dragging millions of inhabitants to neighboring countries. The dictator-president’s headlong flight. And now, the flight of artworks: half the collections at the MOCAA (Museum Of Contemporary Art Africa) currently on display are by artists from this country and are loaned (actually, rented) by government museums from what was once Southern Africa’s breadbasket. It’s heartening to see that the extinguisher hasn’t snuffed out the creative flame, and that against a government with no vision, lines of flight persist.



*

Volatile: poultry and the gases that bind us

On the streets of Paris, a pure white goose brandishes this slogan: "Fewer penguins on the ice floe, fewer in government." Here, we don’t have ice floes, but we do have penguin colonies (you should see those in Betty’s Bay wandering through the village deserted by humans). Plus, an enlightened government is taking climate action: electricity is cut off for several hours a day. Such injustice between north and south is indeed revolting. *

Inside South Africa

Rjulie95 · 2019-03-18 · Message 197 of 213

Ah, it's been a while since I last enjoyed the witty remarks of our Breton traveler—a treat as always! πŸ™‚

Inside South Africa

Jakatite · 2019-03-18 · Message 198 of 213

Cooome ooon, for once before the groupies chime in... But what to say, what to write??? So I’ll just keep quiet while thinking it’s divine, and the wait wasn’t in vain!

Inside South Africa

Muriel18 · 2019-03-19 · Message 199 of 213

Thanks Jean-Luc πŸ™‚ ...it's always a little (big?) pleasure to read your writing. Muriel

Inside South Africa

Max68 · 2019-03-19 · Message 200 of 213

Hello there, traveler,

Thanks for these kind words that take us on a journey πŸ™‚

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