Thailand Travel Journal: From Chiang Mai to Bangkok, We Didn’t Buddha Our Fun (page 10 of 11)

Hi Odile,

Thanks for your photos—I can see the sun is beating down!

If you mentioned "the Baan Phor Liang Meun. When you arrive at Chiang Mai Gate, take Phra Pok Khlao Road for a few meters, then turn onto soi 2 (alley 2). It’s actually the first one on the left.", I’ll point out that it’s to the southeast of the historic square.

Oh wow, what a joy to read your story Jojoone1!! I feel so much gratitude for the amazing written reporting you’ve done!! We’re heading to Chiang Mai as a couple in January 2020—we never take organized tours, and aside from a Rough Guide (which we’ve barely flipped through), we had absolutely no bearings... Thanks to you, our discovery trip is really coming together. We’ve only been to India before, and I can see that Thailand is quite different.... The temples you mention, which you’ve so kindly illustrated with gorgeous photos, are so appealing and are now on our checklist... We’re continuing to read to find the perfect quiet island(s) with snorkeling that would suit us for about ten days to round out this upcoming trip, which has taken such a great shape in just a few days.

Wishing you all the best (from Sète!!)

Hello,

I didn’t have the presence of mind to reply at the time. Out of curiosity, I’d love to know how it all went (just in time before Covid?).

Don’t hesitate if you feel like sharing a bit about the north and the islands...

Shake a leg, I can't wait to read the rest...

You’ve used that phrase a few times in your posts. I’m not familiar with what it means...

In the Sathorn district, roughly south of Lumphini Park, it’s a great idea to visit Mr. Kukrit Pramoj’s house. This extraordinary figure was a banker, novelist, journalist, actor, and prime minister. He left behind his two-hectare urban estate, where he had traditional houses brought and reconstructed. Entry is 50 baht, with opening hours from 10 AM to 4 PM. This preserves another piece of old Thailand, with modern buildings in the background. The garden’s layout on both sides is well done. A little off the main avenues, it’s a peaceful haven. We’re quickly approached by an elderly man sitting quietly, repairing trinkets. We charm him, and he’s eager to chat. Confidence, experience, culture, and refined education are all immediately apparent. When he explains—in a mix of French and English—that he repairs small items, creates little art objects, and preserves his father’s legacy, we realize we’re sitting with Mr. Rongrit Pramoj, son of Mr. Kukrit and great-great-grandson of Rama II. As a good host, he promptly has drinks brought to us. Time flies as we chat, and soon he asks where we’re headed. We explain we have a set time for a culinary meet-up and need to leave.

He then decides to have his driver take us. Seeing our hesitation, he says in his charming English accent, "You know, he uses the car to visit his mistress, so since he’s paid for it, he might as well drive the people I ask him to take somewhere." No comment—it was so spontaneous and hilarious in that context. We’ve been spoiled this year by the variety and quality of the people we’ve met.

I’m replying years after this travel journal was published. I won’t miss this visit—especially since it’s in the neighborhood where I rented my apartment.

Françoise had spotted a restaurant she was absolutely determined to try. When she’s set on something, it’s usually a great idea.

The driver dropped us off at Siam Wisdom, in a quiet corner of Sukhumvit. This beautiful house was built around a large tree, which still thrives right in the middle. The new owner is French with Thai origins. She did us a favor by exceptionally letting us set up our table outside since her usual clientele is high-end and dines in the air-conditioned rooms.

The concept is a rediscovery of lost traditional Thai recipes, focusing on their finest and most refined aspects. We could only be impressed, having had the chance to taste the results: everything was top-notch, with many unique flavors. We appreciated it even more because the owner decided to vary the dishes so that we’d never have the same thing and could try everything. We didn’t think we’d still have the capacity to eat so much, but we have to admit we didn’t have to force ourselves (well… maybe a little toward the end…).

Obviously, after that, there was no point in trying to visit a temple 😛

I absolutely don’t want to miss this!!! How much was the bill?

I’ve just finished reading this travel journal after... eight years, I think? I’m not sure if all the information I picked up is still up-to-date... But generally, when I read a travel journal, it’s not to get restaurant or hotel prices—it’s to "feel like going there" after reading it...

I really enjoyed the detailed descriptions that make you want to go. But what I love most are the anecdotes about what you experienced and your personal feelings about what you discovered. The photos are stunning, even if Françoise calls them "travel photos" with a slightly dismissive tone... It makes me wonder about my own, which are all just "vacation photos."

A huge thank you to both of you for this journal. And I’m diving right into... 2014...

One thought, though... Don’t share good off-the-beaten-path spots publicly, because they won’t stay that way for long. They’ll quickly be taken over by tour operators who’ll bring in busloads of tourists. The same goes for hotels and restaurants—they’ll either hike up their prices or lower their quality to cater to the masses...

Same idea with handing out candy to kids, overly generous tips, and other well-meaning but awkward tourist behaviors.

See you later... in 2014...😉

Obviously, after that there was no point trying to visit another temple

I absolutely don’t want to miss this!!! How much was the bill?

It was around 60 € per person. All the big corporate execs, like BMW, have group meals there.

Obviously, if you stuff yourself less, the bill will be lighter.

It was around 60 € per person. All the execs from big companies like BMW have group meals there. Obviously, if you stuff yourself less, the bill will be lighter.

I kinda figured... But honestly, for that kind of price, I’d rather spend my money elsewhere. Too bad.

I just finished reading this travel journal after... Eight years, I think? I don’t know if all the info I gathered is still up-to-date... But generally, when I read a travel journal, it’s not to get restaurant or hotel prices—it’s to "feel like going there" after reading it... I really appreciated the detailed descriptions that make you want to go. But what I love most are the anecdotes about what you experienced and your personal feelings about what you discovered. The photos are stunning, even if Françoise calls them "travel photos" with a somewhat dismissive tone... It makes me wonder about my own, which are all just "vacation photos." A huge thank you to both of you for this journal. And I’m diving right into... 2014... One comment, though... Don’t share good addresses for "off-the-beaten-path" spots publicly, because they won’t stay that way for long and will quickly be overrun by tour operators bringing in busloads of tourists. The same goes for hotels and restaurants—they’ll either hike up their prices or lower the quality to cater to the masses... Same idea with giving candy to kids, overly generous tips, and other well-meaning but clumsy tourist moves. See you later... in 2014...😉

Looking back, we know we could’ve done better in terms of style, storytelling, and even some of the photos. But at the time, we prioritized actually enjoying the trip over obsessing over the future travel journal.

Then, when it came to writing the journals, we realized our time wasn’t limitless. We were already back in the grind—work, errands, obligations, and so on. The writing suffered a bit, but for a volunteer effort, you can’t expect too much, right?

As for addresses and great tips, my first instinct was always to share freely and generously. I’m totally comfortable with the fact that my opinion on this has completely changed. We want to change the world, but the world changes us. Anyway, I still drop a few tips now and then, but I’m much more selective.

That said, I doubt info shared on a French-speaking forum would cause a stampede in certain places. If anything, it’d be more likely on German or English-speaking forums—those seem more inclined to do serious research, plan thoroughly, and share. And by share, I mean in both directions...

Finally, when it comes to photos, there’s no denying Françoise has a natural talent, especially for portraits. She also had real training, which most beginners won’t have. Given how tough and critical she is, I can confirm that her positive opinion of your photos speaks volumes.

After a few minutes' walk for our first Bangkok by night in a long time, we discovered a rooftop on the 5th floor with a fantastic view of the river and the illuminated Wat Arun. Needless to say, we stayed there for quite a while, at our table right by the railing, soaking in the view. Plus, it was one of those summer nights with visible stars. On the other side of the rooftop, there are a few sofas offering a view of Wat Pho and the Royal Palace a little further away. Without the crowds, just a blessed moment.



Hi Joël, I’ve picked up reading your travel journals again. Given how close my departure is, I’m focusing on everything related to Bangkok. And I came across this. Too bad you didn’t mention the name of this restaurant this time... I’m looking for a place: a restaurant, a bar, or any other spot at the top of a building—and not too expensive—where I could take photos of Bangkok at night...

Several temples indeed coexist where we’re headed. First and foremost, Wat Paknam. It’s been around since the 16th century, and there’s clearly a crowd on-site: several hundred monks, nuns, and novices. The small chapel is a marvel. Not only are the frescoes depicting the life of Buddha of the highest quality, adorned with gold illuminations, but those positioned below represent various royal temples, as well as monks and sovereigns.

In a small courtyard between two buildings, the statue of a monk and that of an elephant are honored and covered in gold by throngs of pilgrims. We follow the flow of visitors up a staircase. Everywhere, there’s precious wood. And we emerge into a vast room where everyone is kneeling in prayer before the coffin of the venerable monk, who passed away in 1959 and turned a nearly abandoned temple into a global center for spreading Buddhist faith. On a small platform along the windows, monks are seated, chanting. We can’t quite get used to it, and that’s a good thing.

We didn’t visit the gigantic 80-meter white chedi built just a few years ago at a fortune’s cost. It’s said to be worth the trip—we’ll probably go back someday.

The small Wat Mo doesn’t quite measure up to its prestigious neighbor. Still, we pause for a moment in front of its mini-mountain, home to about thirty Buddhas, all draped in orange.

Wat Kun Chan completes the trio in a radically different style. It seems they used up all the leftover colorful paint they hadn’t used for other temples here. Worth noting: the little neighborhood around these temples is full of old houses—a small preserved slice of old Bangkok...

Thanks so much, Joël, for the tip about these temples in Thonburi. I’ll definitely make sure to visit them. I’m planning to spend an entire day getting lost in Thonburi. I’m wondering whether a long boat ride through the khlongs would be better or, as I like to do, wandering aimlessly through the alleys with my nose in the air...

In the Sathorn district, roughly south of Lumphini Park, it’s a great idea to visit the home of Mr. Kukrit Pramoj. This extraordinary figure was a banker, novelist, journalist, actor, and prime minister.

Entry is 50 baht, with opening hours from 10 AM to 4 PM. It’s a preserved slice of old Thailand, with modern buildings as a backdrop. The garden’s layout on both sides is beautifully done. A little off the main avenues, it’s a peaceful haven.

Those with some means who are planning to get married can rent part of the place for the occasion.

However, our visit this year wasn’t quite complete because we were quickly approached by an elderly man sitting quietly, repairing trinkets. We caught his interest, and he was eager to chat. Confidence, experience, culture, and refined education were all immediately apparent. When he explained—in a mix of French and English—that he repairs small items, creates little art objects, and preserves his father’s legacy, we realized we were sitting with Mr. Rongrit Pramoj, son of Mr. Kukrit and great-great-grandson of Rama II. As a gracious host, he promptly had drinks brought to us. Time flew by as we chatted, and eventually, he asked where we were headed. We explained we had a set time for a culinary meet-up and needed to leave.

He then arranged for his driver to take us. Seeing our hesitation, he said in his charming English accent, "You know, he uses the car to visit his mistress, so since he’s paid for it, he might as well drive the people I ask him to." No comment—it was so spontaneous and hilarious in that context. We’ve been spoiled this year by the variety and quality of the people we’ve met.

This is the area where I’ll be staying during my week in Bangkok. This house is already on my "itinerary" for local visits near my accommodation. In fact, I’d like to start on my first day (I arrive in the morning) by getting my bearings and learning how to get around this huge city with visits near where I’m staying. I won’t rush straight to the crowded tourist spots as soon as I arrive... Besides, I’m not even sure I’ll visit those packed places. I’d prefer to explore temples and other more intimate curiosities...

Hi Joël, I’ve picked up reading your travel journals again. Given how close my departure is, I’m focusing on everything related to Bangkok. And I came across this. Too bad you didn’t mention the name of that restaurant this time... I’m looking for a place: a restaurant, a bar, or any other spot at the top of a building—one that isn’t too pricey—where I could take night photos of Bangkok...

Didn’t you see it in my BKK tips? Double-check, and if not, let me know via PM. But 1) I need to dig through my archive files, and 2) after a few years, it’s gotta still be there.

Hi Joël, I’ve picked up reading your travel journals again. Given how close my departure is, I’m focusing on everything about Bangkok. And I came across this. Too bad you didn’t mention the name of that restaurant this time... I’m looking for a place: a restaurant, a bar, or any spot at the top of a building—one that’s not too pricey—where I can take night photos of Bangkok...

Didn’t you see it in my BKK info? Double-check, and if not, let me know via PM. But 1) I need to dig through my old archives, and 2) after a few years, it might not even exist anymore.

Yes, yes, sorry for the oversight. Shortly after posting, I found a certain BAR you mentioned:

in the Grand Palace area. Perfect for getting a high view in the evening, with the river, boats, and illuminated temples.

I just need to check if they serve anything other than cocktails and if they have happy hours. If so, it’ll probably be during the day, since others have the same idea for night photos! ;) But why not both day and night? Pick a time when you can snag a table quickly near the railing... Before the platform gets overrun by photographers instead of customers...

I didn’t go during peak season. The best thing is to arrive before nightfall to enjoy one of the spots right by the river.

If you take your time—say, with two drinks—you’ll get your daytime and nighttime photos.

Right next to that place, there was another spot with a balcony that looked even bigger. Maybe a bit fancier? Worth checking out.

You’ll want to verify if it still exists, but it’s pretty likely.

The best thing is to arrive before it gets dark to enjoy one of the seats right by the river. By lingering a bit—say, over two drinks—you’ll get your daytime and nighttime photos.

That’s exactly what I was planning. I guess night falls early there, around 6 or 7 PM. But you really have to want it, because the drinks are pricey! I saw the prices on the menu. And apparently, you have to book a table several days in advance...

Right next to this place, there was another spot with an even bigger balcony. Maybe a bit fancier? Worth checking out. You’ll need to verify if it still exists, but it’s pretty likely.

Yeah, I saw both places, but the second one is even more expensive... They’re taking advantage of our foolishness—everyone wanting the same nighttime photos... I’ll have to think about it some more... There are great night views of the lit-up buildings from my hotel’s rooftop... Of course, it’s not the same as the temples, the palace, or the nighttime traffic...

I just came back to check the comments. The prices are exorbitant, the service is lacking... But most of all, after seeing other people’s photos, it’s not what I’m looking for. I’d rather have buildings, huge glowing billboards in every color, car traffic... Life, you know! In the end, those photos of illuminated monuments feel static, almost lifeless, and they all look the same everywhere online and elsewhere... It reminds me of all those places famous for sunsets that are packed with people... And you get tired of seeing thousands of sunsets from the same spot. Like photos of the Taj Mahal. Our friend "Partirdeloin" was absolutely right. Might as well photograph a pretty old, run-down, and grimy house that tells a story of life... in some forgotten neighborhood where no one ever gets lost...

There’s an amazing spot to grab a coffee in Chiang Mai: Baan Phor Liang Meun. Once you reach Chiang Mai Gate, head down Phra Pok Khlao Road for a few meters and take soi 2 (alley 2). It’s actually the first one on the left. After a few dozen meters, you’ll find yourself walking alongside what looks like a Khmer temple.

Permanently closed!!! 🙁 Most likely another Covid casualty!

There’s another one in the outskirts of Lampang—very aesthetic and set on a beautiful expanse of land. It also has a café and restaurant.