No, I Won’t Be Going Back to China (page 10 of 13)

it’s incredibly disorienting and unsettling. In a word, it’s a real journey.

“Disorienting and unsettling—a real journey.”

That’s what I take away after 17 years of living in complete isolation in this country of a thousand languages. Arrived in summer 2004, left in winter 2019.

It’s incredibly disorienting and eye-opening. In a word, it’s a real journey.

“Disorienting and eye-opening—a real journey.”

That’s what I took away after 17 years of living completely off the grid in this country of a thousand languages. Arrived in summer 2004, left in winter 2019.

And I’m heading back this fall... China fascinates me...😇

It’s incredibly disorienting and unsettling. In a word, it’s real travel.

"Disorienting and unsettling, real travel"

That’s what I took away after 17 years of complete self-imposed isolation in this country of a thousand languages. Arrived in summer 2004, left in winter 2019.

And I’m going back this autumn... China fascinates me...

China fascinates you, the country is no doubt appealing. As for me, it’s the Chinese people who drive me crazy. I’m currently in Cambodia and I still see the same "characters" shouting, respecting nothing and no one... it’s infuriating

The things you mentioned in your first article really struck me as fascinating. It’s hard to say whether I agree or not. Even though I live in China and work in the tourism sector, I find your writing incredibly talented. Your story had me laughing the whole way through. As a Chinese person who’s lived in France for a few years, I see things differently. Life and people’s personalities here aren’t the same as in France. Actually, the experiences you had don’t happen everywhere or to everyone. I’m sorry you’ve kept such a memory of China. If you ever decide to come back in a few years, don’t hesitate to reach out if you need help—for example, I can help translate your questions to hotel staff over the phone. 🙂

When it comes to food, the typical style of each province might not suit your tastes. As for people’s personalities, it’s hard to generalize because it really depends on the person and the place you visit. Sure, situations like the ones you described can happen, especially at the Terracotta Army. Your image of a bowl of rice and hundreds of "gugus" is so vivid, especially during holidays and school vacations. Kudos for noticing that! When it comes to communication, I’m convinced that cutting-edge technology will improve things by 2025 and beyond. If the staff don’t understand you, ask to speak to their manager. That sometimes works. About the rare self-service laundromats and the high cost of hotel laundry services—yep, that’s true. Most hotels don’t offer free washing. You pay per item, which can get expensive fast. Your best bet is to stay in a serviced apartment, as some offer laundry services. Laundromats are rare in China. You might want to bring portable hangers. In the north, clothes dry quickly—bonus physics! 😛 For air travel, I won’t comment on the service, but the food is pretty bad. They say it’s because of competition from other transport options, so costs have been cut. Personally, a trip to China isn’t always as bad as that. 🙂 By the way, the phrase "a bowl of rice and hundreds of gugus" is brilliant, but I’m not sure what "gugus" are. Have a great day.

wahoo...

The things you mentioned in your first post really struck me as fascinating. It’s hard to say whether I agree or not. Even though I live in China and work in the tourism sector, I find your writing very talented. Your story had me laughing the whole way through. As a Chinese person who’s spent a few years in France, I see things differently. Life and people’s personalities here are not the same as in France. Actually, the experiences you had don’t happen everywhere or to everyone. I’m sorry you kept such a memory of China. If you ever decide to come back in a few years, don’t hesitate to reach out if you need help—for example, I can help translate your questions to hotel staff over the phone. 🙂

When it comes to food, it’s possible that the typical style of each province didn’t suit you. As for people’s personalities, it’s hard to comment because it really depends on the person and the place you visit. Sure, there can be situations like the ones you described, especially at the Terracotta Army. Your image of a bowl of rice and hundreds of "gugus" is so vivid, especially during holidays and school breaks. Kudos for noticing that! Regarding communication, I’m convinced that cutting-edge technology will improve things by 2025 and beyond. If the staff don’t understand you, ask for their manager to come. That sometimes works. As for the rare self-service laundromats and the high cost of hotel laundry services, that’s true. Most hotels don’t offer free washing. You pay per item, which can get expensive fast. I’d recommend staying in a serviced apartment instead—some offer laundry services. In China, laundromats are rare. You might want to bring portable hangers. In the north, clothes dry quickly—bonus physics! 😛 For airline services, I won’t comment on the service itself, but the food is terrible. They say it might be due to competition from other transport options, so costs have been cut. Personally, a visit to China isn’t always that bad. 🙂 By the way, the phrase "a bowl of rice and hundreds of gugus" is brilliant, but I’m curious—what are "gugus"? Have a great day.

Hi,

Things may have changed since then. My opinion is very personal. Still, I might go back to do a bike trip from Hong Kong to northern Vietnam.

We can chat via PM if you’d like.

Thanks,

Yes, of course. That’s also my personal take. :) We’re all allowed to feel things differently. Sometimes I’m really touched by people’s kindness, and other times, I’m saddened by their lack of manners. It changes from one day to the next. I’d love to chat with you about our experiences via PM or if you ever need anything. ^^

Regarding Ericdu's comments. His position is incomprehensible. I’ve spent a month in China three times. In Tibet, with the southern minorities, and around Beijing. Never in tourist hotels! Always in charming or private hotels, welcomed like a king. My memories with the minorities, their hospitality, and sharing their last bowl of rice. Incredible. And I did the entire Silk Road all the way to Torugart. With my Defender, alone from Switzerland to Mongolia, via Uzbekistan, Russia, and Kazakhstan. I never had any problems. Traveling in Europe, it’s not the same welcome as in Eastern countries. I’ve had more security issues in Europe (often traveling alone). There you go. I know some excellent Chinese guides. One of my guides is Mongolian and a minister! I’m planning, in principle, one last trip to China in 2026-27 to do the Silk Road from Kashgar to Xi’an. The rest is already done! Prices are very expensive for a foreigner to cross Xinjiang by road. If I go back to China, I’ll let you know! Take care. John

Regarding Ericdu’s comments. His position is incomprehensible to me. I’ve spent a month in China three times—once in Tibet, with the southern minorities, and around Beijing. Never in tourist hotels! Always in charming or private hotels, welcomed like royalty. My memories with the minorities, their hospitality, and sharing their last bowl of rice… Incredible. And I did the entire Silk Road all the way to the Torugart Pass. With my Defender, alone from Switzerland to Mongolia, via Uzbekistan, Russia, and Kazakhstan. I never had any problems. Traveling in Europe, the welcome in Eastern European countries isn’t the same. I’ve had more safety issues in Europe (often traveling solo). There you go. I know some excellent Chinese guides. One of my Mongolian guides was even a minister! I’m planning, in principle, one last trip to China in 2026–27 to do the Silk Road from Kashgar to Xi’an. The rest I’ve already done! Crossing Xinjiang by road is very expensive for a foreigner. If I do go back to China, I’ll let you know! Take care. John

Why is it incomprehensible? Everyone has their own feelings and experiences 😊

Is it just me who doesn’t get it? Everyone does what they want! Have a good evening.

Hi John, I’m often touched by the positive, neutral, or even negative comments left by foreigners on all kinds of platforms, whether they’ve been to China or not. Having lived in France for 8 years and traveled solo a lot around Europe, my experiences were just like what you describe... As for the problems, I’ve had those too—because of my Asian appearance or just being anyone, really. It’s really not easy to get used to living in a different situation, at least not on the first encounter. So, the feeling is sometimes generated by unfamiliarity. And accepting another culture can come from meeting at the right time or with the right person. What happened to Eric is so funny if you look at it from his own mood. I told him I’d done a bike trip from a city in the north all the way to Mont-Saint-Michel. Gorgeous, though the raw seafood gave me a stomachache. Hahaha. Little interludes like that are part of the exotic discovery too. 😛 The tour along the Silk Road can be expensive. Hotels, food, etc., are a bit pricier too. Plus, the distance between each stop is long, and you need a powerful car to make the trip. Also, the weather can change suddenly, so make sure you’re well prepared. Hope to hear from you when you’re back here.

As you mentioned, the minority communities along the Silk Road must be very welcoming. Here, when we eat roasted meat, we prefer to go to restaurants run by Huns or Uyghurs. Because they have their faith, we believe they serve healthier meat. That’s just my personal opinion. I’d love to do a trip like yours one day—admire how people live, the architecture, and so on.

Thanks, Lena, for these stories—you’ve got an excellent command of French! I’ve never been to China, and the country really fascinates me with all the regions there are to explore. Is the southwest of China really tropical?

Tibet isn’t tropical. No region in China is tropical—temperatures are always pleasant, except in the deserts. Same in Mongolia. I’ve never had temperature issues in any country in the East. Even in Vietnam, it was pleasant. I visit these regions between September and December. The advantage of China is you can fantasize and choose your region based on your interests. The north: the Silk Road. The south: Fascinating—Tibet and the southern minorities. The west: the big cities. Try to avoid big tourist hotels! Charming hotels or homestays are a bit more expensive, but it’s worth trying. Because the Chinese have a somewhat special character and are more welcoming than in Europe (and Switzerland). Go to China, and you won’t be fantasizing anymore!! Good luck. John

The west, the big cities. John

It’s you who’s in the wrong, not the big cities 😎

East (to the right) of China are the big cities! Okay. Sorry about that. Not important. I’ve already driven about 50,000 km on the roads alone with my Defender (Russia, Siberia, Mongolia, Kazakhstan, Uzbekistan, etc., and all of Europe and Eastern Europe), and I still don’t know where East is!!!! You can make mistakes!!

Please, I’m always happy to share useful insights from my experience. Even though advanced techniques can perfectly present another country and its features without visiting in person, many surprises—whether beautiful or astonishing—can’t be predicted by cold data. That’s something AI may never be able to replace.

Thanks also for pushing me into geographic theory and helping me structure my French writing better, so I don’t make reading too much of a chore for you. The southwest region accounts for about 15% of China’s total land area. Around 10% of this region can be considered tropical due to temperature, humidity, rainfall, culture, biodiversity, and lifestyle. This includes Hainan province, southern Yunnan, southern Guangxi, and small islands in the sea south of Guangdong province. The remaining 85% of the southwest region is classified as subtropical.

However, with the rapid urbanization over the past few decades, to find the tropical vibe we imagine, you’ll need to head toward remote, undeveloped areas. This aligns with what Mr. Xagga mentioned. Besides, the costumes, customs, and dishes of ethnic minorities, along with their unique traits, are far more fascinating than the landscapes you might expect. Given that the southwest region of China is home to 56 nationalities, once you’re there, you might forget your original plans—you’ll be so drawn into this incredible world. Different neighborhoods showcase diverse characteristics. Thanks again for Mr. Xagga’s conclusion. I love southwest China, Hong Kong, Kunming (the capital of Yunnan), Guilin (a city in Guangxi known for its landscapes), and Sanya (kind of like the Chinese version of the French Riviera, but... well, you know).

In response to the very first message. I spent 3 weeks traveling independently in China in 2015 (Beijing, Xi’an, Yunnan) and I recognize pretty much everything (except the food, which was rarely very spicy).

These characteristics can be appreciated or not—some might find them exotic, not take offense, find it funny, or even play along. All of that is subjective.

But what’s objective are the facts: yes, I often felt like a piece of furniture, or even an annoying object rather than a human being. Yes, locals often speak very loudly. Yes, tourist groups are massive, noisy, and make visits complicated. Yes, English, French, and Spanish are barely spoken... We could also add the XXL spitting in the street. It’s good to know this, and then it’s up to each person to adapt based on their expectations, sensitivity, etc. And of course, that doesn’t mean there aren’t also very nice things, kind locals, and beautiful sights.

To give context to my comment: I’ve been taking two independent trips a year since 2006, without a smartphone until 2022, no agencies, moving around without taxis or cars, eating local most of the time, and staying in small hotels or youth hostels. I’ve also visited most of Southeast Asia.

The comparison with India made earlier is partly relevant, but the big difference is that in India—at least in the tourist regions of Rajasthan—the pressure from touts, scammers, etc. is the most intense I’ve ever experienced... With Egypt close behind. Whereas in China, they leave you alone.

Happy travels to all! !

No region of China is tropical

Hi there, Xishuangbanna (Jinghong), on the border with Laos, is still a bit tropical, though.

I’ve never had any temperature problems in any country in the East. Even in Vietnam, it was pleasant.

It all depends on what you mean by "the East." Go to Rajasthan in May—you’ll tell me all about it... It’s not cold in Thailand, Laos, or Myanmar in May or June either!

Hello,

I’m trying to understand what you didn’t like about China. For context, your trip was in 1986.

- The food: way too spicy. No flavors, little taste. I’m speaking "in general" because we did try some good steamed dumplings, smoked pork, and dumplings... On the other hand, we were blown away by Thailand, Cambodia, and India, but Chinese cuisine didn’t impress us.

I found the food in China to be very good and, above all, the most varied of all the countries I’ve visited. (Lots of vegetables and unknown condiments.) Only one region had spicy food—Sichuan. (But I’m used to chili peppers.)

- Chinese behavior: disrespectful, rushed, agitated. You constantly have to fight—we were pushed, crowded, etc. At the entrance to the Terracotta Army (or other sites), it was like a human tidal wave... and I mean that literally. We were carried by the crowds without even touching the ground. It was like a situation where you have one bowl of rice and 20,000 starving people diving for it...

You’re at a ticket counter, and they cut in front of you. You’re in line for boarding, your suitcase ready on the conveyor belt, and someone shows up out of nowhere to put THEIR suitcase down... And yet, they also have a plane ticket with THEIR seat number, and they won’t leave before you!!!! You’re getting on the bus, and someone else rushes in to push past you so they’re not behind you.

It was like these people only thought about themselves. I didn’t see anyone let someone else go first or even ask—it was like politeness and respect were foreign concepts.

Of course, I didn’t experience that since I traveled at a time when Chinese people rarely traveled. In fact, I even found myself in the opposite situation—cutting in line out of necessity... and no one said a word! The only exception was on a boat between Hainan and the mainland, where we were packed like sardines. Across from me, a Chinese guy was smoking *bhang*, his face 20 cm from mine, blowing smoke right in my face! The most surprising thing for me was how often Chinese people spat—even in restaurants and buses! About every 30 seconds! The sidewalks in Kunming became a real slip hazard... 😏 And yet, there were spittoons everywhere.

- Communication: In every country we’ve visited, whether in Asia or Europe, we always manage with English, a few words of Italian, French, or Spanish. In China, to be very stereotypical, if you don’t speak Chinese, you’re screwed.

Totally agree! I had to draw a train to get to a station and a boat to get to the port! The only Chinese word I can still say phonetically is: *Meïo*, which for me meant "no," "there isn’t," or "it’s not possible." Once, I was in line to buy a train ticket... and they told me *Meïo*. No problem—I asked them to sell me the same ticket as the Chinese guy behind me in line, then took the first train that came along! It was REALLY difficult, but that didn’t stop me from loving the country. People tried to help me many times. Someone even fixed my torn bag... and refused payment! I traveled dozens of kilometers in a sidecar for the equivalent of 2 or 3 francs at the time.

Regarding flights: On the way there with Air China and back with Austrian Airlines—no comparison. No service and "inedible" food with Air China. With Austrian, multiple services, a rather "elaborate" meal, and smiling flight attendants.

I flew with CAAC (China Airlines). We had to bring our own luggage to the plane... At the arrival airport, there was a simple canteen (where I ate the worst meal). At the table, I ended up with the entire crew—flight attendants and the captain! Same menu for everyone: rice and vegetables!

I don’t know if you’ve had the same experience with this country, but I’m not at all eager to go back. Whereas if someone offered me India, Thailand, or Vietnam tomorrow, I’d leave right away!!!

I wouldn’t go back for other reasons, but mostly because of the growth of Chinese tourism—I imagine too many crowds, too many lines, and being "forced" to visit the "must-see" spots instead of going where I really want. For context, during my 1986 trip, I liked the Chinese people but not the authorities. The reason? I got stopped by the police near Yangshuo (Guilin) for unknowingly entering a "restricted area"—the sign was only in Chinese. I spent a day in a police station, endured a stupid interrogation, and had to pay a fine! I wanted to add something similar to what the last poster (Fayech) said: In China, aside from the authorities (the cops), I was left alone, and the people I met were all nice to me. Many avoided me because of the language barrier and probably because they were afraid to talk to foreigners—it was more or less forbidden. Foreigners were only allowed in hotels designated for them, but if a Chinese hotel was empty or nearly empty, I could have an entire dorm (10 beds) to myself for 2 or 3 francs! In India, you often need strong nerves and travel experience (scams and harassment are common!). Same in Egypt... I almost got into a fight with a taxi driver who wouldn’t let me go. None of that in China.