Day 23 / Day 24: Back to Bangkok
In Chinatown...
The trip from Haad Chao to Bangkok went much more smoothly and safely than on the way there. After a 2.5-hour drive, the taxi dropped us off at the Ratchawong Hostel in the Chinatown area, just steps from the river. With its backpacker crowd, the place felt more like a youth hostel than a hotel. Most of the beds are in dorms, but there are also a few private rooms—which we’d hurried to book.
Chinatown! Since we didn’t have time to explore the neighborhood during our first three days in Bangkok, we decided to stay there at the end of our trip.
Did we miss out, like sometimes happens when traveling? Did we overlook some more intimate, authentic spots? Honestly, I wasn’t blown away by this “city within a city.”
At no point did I feel any Chinese atmosphere in this maze of narrow covered alleys, lined with shops and stalls overflowing with all kinds of goods: clothes, jewelry, cheap souvenirs...
Bruno and I dragged our feet through this commercial universe. The girls seemed more interested, but I noticed Kate wasn’t taking many photos. I know her—it’s a sign the place didn’t really grab her.
Emerging from these endless galleries, we luckily stumbled upon a khlong spanned by elegant white footbridges, lined on both sides with colorful, flower-filled houses.
We sat down at a terrace to sip fresh fruit juice. For the first time since the start of our trip, I sensed a hint of gloom settling over the group. Nathalie looked tired, Bruno seemed lost in his own world, Kate was talking to her “Canon,” and I just hoped the shopping visit would end soon.
After a bit more wandering, we decided to head back to the hostel.
The rooftop apéritif would revive our energy. As night fell and the first lights of the Skyline across from us flickered on, the sightseeing boats below—lit up like Christmas trees—glided gently along the river. This was modern Bangkok, the “global city,” flaunting its glitter and wealth while hiding its darker corners of poverty.
And then, a brain glitch—beer effect? I asked Bruno, “What are those lights hanging in the sky, Bruno?” Uh, stars! A fit of laughter followed. Lost in my thoughts, I’d imagined something else—I don’t even remember what.
After dinner at an excellent Chinese restaurant near the hostel, we dove into the buzz of Chinatown’s massive night market—a must-see spectacle.
A dense crowd pressed along the sidewalks and avenues, illuminated by huge glowing billboards, like Times Square or Piccadilly Circus. We wandered between the stalls of street vendors, surrounded by the sharp scents of spices and grilled fish. The place pulsed with raw energy, almost primal. But we were running low on energy ourselves. A few laps and then...
Frankly, Bangkok, which we’d loved so much at the start of our trip, felt a little out of reach this time. Tomorrow’s our last chance to reconnect.
