Trip to Thailand and Laos (page 13 of 19)

Waiting for the plane… Buddha Street and Emquartier

Our return flight is scheduled for 2 a.m., so we’ve got a long day ahead of us. Since the start of our trip, I’ve been looking to buy my son a Buddha statue that isn’t too common. It’s become a habit on every trip to bring him back an object or figurine that evokes the spirituality of the country we’ve visited—a Shiva from India, a dervish from Istanbul…

In Bangkok, there’s an area travelers casually call “Buddha Street,” while locals know it better as the “Amulet Market.” It’s about a 30-minute walk from our hotel. The morning is beautiful, the air still fresh, so we decide to go on foot. The neighborhood is quiet and well-kept. The main avenue and side streets are lined with shops specializing in religious items: statues, amulets, prayer beads, portable bells, ritual candles… There are also higher-end stores with elaborate collectibles, some antique and certainly very expensive. It’s a bit of a hybrid place—reminiscent of Paris’s antique district and the Vatican’s shops, though I’m not pushing the comparison. Our purchases are more modest; we’re neither art collectors nor Buddhist devotees. It’s just about bringing back souvenirs. After browsing several stalls, we pick one with a great collection of Buddha statues in different poses. Each of us chooses “their” Buddha, guided by the young saleswoman who speaks French fluently.





With our shopping done, we look for a place to take a break. Around a corner, we spot a chocolate-brown wooden storefront with a sign in French: “Café. Le Petit Peyton.” Inside, it’s a vintage space recreating the atmosphere of a 1950s Parisian café—Édith Piaf’s music, old posters, postcards, and all sorts of knickknacks. Charming and cozy.





After this delightful retro detour, Kate suggests we fast-forward to the future. We head to the new Emquartier mall in the heart of the business district. The place is impressive with its futuristic architecture. Inside, soft lighting bathes five levels blending luxury boutiques, restaurants, cinemas, and winter gardens. Despite the crowds rushing in every direction along helical ramps and escalators, the atmosphere is hushed. The subtly regulated air conditioning keeps the temperature perfect. Everything is flawless. Sterile. Outside, terraced gardens are seamlessly integrated into the urban landscape, offering views of the skyline reflected in the large glass windows. It’s a bold, contemporary beauty—an architectural and aesthetic success. But at this late stage of our trip, I’m already nostalgic for the landscapes of Don Det, the shimmering Mekong, and the red dust of the Bolaven Plateau.







We return to the hotel by metro. Since India, Nathalie and I have loved these moments of navigating, figuring out routes, finding the right information. It’s like a game for us—Station X, Line Y, get off at…

Evening begins to fall, the day is winding down, and the countdown has started, but we still have time. Time for one last drink on the hotel’s rooftop, for example. One last look at the glowing horizon and the skyline lighting up little by little. We head down for dinner. On the deserted street, only a tiny street-side eatery—two tables and four plastic chairs—remains open. Behind her stall, a cheerful woman calls out, “Porridge, porridge!” Porridge? We immediately think of an English dish rather than an Asian one. She shows us her preparation: a rice porridge with minced chicken, a soft-boiled egg, onions, fried garlic, and ginger. It’s a popular Thai dish called “jok.” Bruno pulls a face, unconvinced by the somewhat “baby food” look of the recipe, but in the end, everyone enjoys this last typically Thai meal, savored under the amused gaze of the two women who served us.



Then, as always when preparing to leave after such a long stay, time speeds up and contracts. We go back to our rooms to pack, each in our own bubble, focused. Flight tickets, passport, money? Okay, everything’s there. The taxi is waiting downstairs. “Sawatdi.” Before getting in, Nathalie double-checks the destination: “Suvarnabhumi Airport?” “Yes.” In the taxi speeding along the ring road, we stay silent. It’s not quite time for nostalgia yet—just the slight apprehension of a traveler about to take a late-night flight. The airport, bright and vast like a city, emerges from the Thai night. It’s 11 p.m…

It’s 11 PM...

Is this the final word? Is there a prologue? Either way, I really loved this four-to-six-hand story (same for the previous ones, by the way) where the words complement the stunning images. Actually, Canon or not, the photos are always spot-on. What does the photographer think of her Christmas gift? All we can do now is wait for the next chapter... Any new destination already planned? PS Thanks

Is this the final word?

Hi Xavier,

It's great that you've been following along. I’ve planned a little epilogue that I’ll post this weekend ;)

Hi Xavier

It’s really great to see you back on VF more often. And this month, you kinda *had* to be here 😛

Anyway, Canon or not, the photos are still always spot-on. What does the photographer think of her Christmas gift?

She loved the surprise! Especially its weight! That’s actually why I wanted to switch. Richard spent hours with me (though he knows nothing about it) in specialty shops. It was a tough choice—finding a high-performance camera that’s small and won’t break the bank. If I’d known Richard was going to buy it for me, I would’ve gone for a Leica But I’m happy with my EOS R50 for what I use it for: street photography while traveling.

Already planning a new destination?

Life got in the way, but we’re thinking about the Sultanate of Oman.

Epilogue

The "trip to Thailand and Laos" has come to an end. After Rajasthan and Tamil Nadu – Kerala, this was the third long adventure for the group of four.

The harmony among us was almost perfect, despite our different and often strong personalities. It was as if each person’s flaws, quirks, worries, and impatience dissolved within the group, transforming into positive energy. It’s a little miracle that happens every time.

What can I say about our encounter with the countries we traveled through? I admit that going back and forth between Thailand and Laos left me a bit unsettled. Switching from one to the other sometimes made me feel scattered, like I was flitting about. Even if the frangipani trees are the same, maybe they don’t give off the same scents. Bangkok and Thailand’s beaches charmed me, of course, but I want to hold onto a few images of Laos to close this travel journal. The Mekong River, the country’s backbone, flowing wide and deep from the thick jungles of the North, then cascading southward before softening into the low, drier landscapes of the 4,000 Islands archipelago. Rural life in the villages around Nong Khiaw and on the Bolavens Plateau—simple, and undoubtedly tough without being miserable. Those men and women with their discreet manners and smiling faces. The monks in saffron robes praying and working in their temples, yet deeply woven into the daily lives of the people. And that hybrid spirituality, which often leads rural Laotians to find life rules in the Buddha’s teachings while also seeking connections to other worlds in the rustling of trees or the flowing of rivers.

Laos is called "the land of a thousand elephants." That phrase doesn’t quite match the country I encountered. I only saw two elephants. So I made up my own, bending the truth a little by borrowing some from Thailand and Korea. Laos, "the land of smiles and calm mornings."

We sincerely thank all the regulars on VF who had the patience to read us to the end and took the time to contribute thoughtfully in the spirit of a travel forum.

First off, thanks to the four of you for this travel journal—your writing and photos are great! Just a small clarification for the Laos lover: it’s not called "the Land of a Thousand Elephants," but rather "the Land of a Million Elephants," among other names... "The Order of the Million Elephants and the White Parasol (Lao: ອິສະຣິຍາພອນລ້ານຊ້າງຮົ່ມຂາວ; Itsariyaphon Lan Sang Hom Khao) was an order of the Kingdom of Laos, then under French protectorate, established in 1909 by King Sisavang Vong. It was the highest order of the Lao royal family." But your description "land of smiles and the calm morning" is spot-on. Thanks again to all of you!

Thanks for your reply. Guess I did forget a few things along the way! 😉

Thanks so much for this travel journal—it was such a pleasure to follow. It’s ending… *sniff*. As always, Kate’s photos are gorgeous, and Richard’s writing really captures the vibe. Thanks again!

Thanks so much for your comment. The travel journal took a while to write, but Kate and I really enjoyed putting this dual-voice story together.

Everything must come to an end, alas...

Like many of you, while Thailand has plenty of attractions—if only for its stunning beaches—I fell in love with Laos (and Cambodia too)... Muang Sing and its opium-selling tribes, who looked totally baffled when I didn’t buy any; Nong Kiaw, Muang Noi, Luang Prabang with its temple ceremonies led by a kind monk surrounded by mischievous young novices; and of course, its waterfalls, where the visit was ruined by nearby tourist buses... Vang Vieng—just off the main street—and its caves; Kratié with its dolphins and mountain temple; and, of course, the 4,000 Islands...

Everything enchanted me, and thanks to you four, I relived this trip from... 2007!

A huge thank you to the authors who generously shared their time to take us along with them.

Things must have changed a lot since 2007! Apparently, sadly, no more dolphins in the Mekong. Dams, pollution, illegal fishing (with explosives or poison).

Thanks for your feedback! 🙂

Oh no!

Kratie is in Cambodia, of course...

To me, these two countries were one in the love I had for them... or rather "the love I used to have," because China was already making its moves—its trains, its dams that didn’t exist back then.

And from what I’ve heard, the Cambodian coast has been disfigured by rampant real estate development, then left abandoned and in ruins on Xi’s orders, since he’d rather his billionaires invest at home... (except for massive military installations and ports, of course!)

I had been following your travel journal in bits and pieces, and today I finally got to read it in full. I wanted to react to a thousand things, but I can't...

You ultimately reveal in the epilogue a point that had me wondering during the reading: the back-and-forth between Thailand as a minor and Laos as a major. You can feel two very different vibes, and personally (this isn’t a criticism at all, just a personal reflection!), I would have also found it a bit unsettling to organize my trip that way—I prefer unity in travel: discovering and feeling a country or region in its entirety without too much intrusion from another entity that might muddle my search for coherence.

I also loved the recurring comparisons with India. We all have our reference points and our distant home port that influences how we perceive other travels! If I ever get to write my Senegal travel journal, you’ll see I do the same. Laos does indeed seem so far from the "telluric" India you so aptly described. Though not all of India is like that. You should check out Ladakh, by the way!

Needless to say, unsurprisingly, what you shared about Laos and the landscapes you showed really spoke to me and reinforced my desire to go there someday. Your account gave me the impression it was more touristy than I thought—am I wrong?

And I admit, even if I don’t deny it must be a magnificent country, I have quite a few preconceptions about the touristy side of Thailand. My brother and his family just came back enchanted, though. While I’m more of a fan of untouched rural spaces, I still really love the urban atmosphere of big cities, and I’ll concede that the descriptions my brother, you, or other forum members like Marien give of Bangkok suggest an extremely diverse and multifaceted city—something that draws me to big cities. And even if it’s not usually my thing, your experience of having dream beaches at the end of the trip with hardly anyone around leaves me a bit dreamy.

Anyway, here’s another beautifully written and illustrated travel journal, with a great balance between subjective travel feelings, anthropological observations, and cultural digressions that I love. There are quite a few moments where I see myself in your perspective, actually.

Where to next?

Waiting for the plane... Buddha Street and Emquartier

After this pleasant dive into retro, Kate suggests we fast-forward to the future. Off to the new shopping center of Emquartier in the heart of the business district. The place is impressive with its futuristic architecture. The interior, bathed in soft light, spans five levels where luxury boutiques, restaurants, cinemas, and winter gardens blend together. Despite the large crowds rushing in every direction along the helical ramps and escalators, the atmosphere is hushed. The subtly regulated air conditioning maintains an ideal temperature. Everything is perfect. Sterile. The exterior is designed as a series of terraced gardens, seamlessly integrated into the urban landscape, offering visual escapes at every level with views of the skyline reflected in the large glass windows. It’s a contemporary beauty, bold and an architectural and aesthetic success. But at this point in our nearly finished trip, I’m nostalgic for the landscapes of Don Det, the shimmering Mekong, and the red dust of the Bolaven Plateau.







Hi, just a little clarification: this shopping center is the new Central Park at Lumpini. Its rather successful suspended garden and the Paname restaurant, where you can have a (pricey) drink with a view of the park...

Emquartier itself is on Sukhumvit...

Thanks Richard for this travel journal that took me back a few years. Well written, with Kate’s gorgeous photos, it was a real treat to follow 🙂.

Things must have changed a lot since 2007! Apparently, sadly, no more dolphins in the Mekong. Dams, pollution, illegal fishing (with explosives or poisons).

Thanks for your feedback 🙂

Hi there!

As Calaf mentioned, there are still some left in Cambodia. At least, I saw some in Kratie in 2018, even with babies. Hope they’re still there 🤞.

Anyway, thanks a lot Richard and Kate for this four-handed feedback—still so complementary. A perfect example of teamwork 😄

Have a great day

Good grief!

Kratie is in Cambodia, of course....

And from what I know, the Cambodian coast has been disfigured by runaway real estate development, then left abandoned and in ruins on Xi’s orders, as he prefers his billionaires to invest at home... (except for huge military facilities and ports, of course!)

Really, Alain? When I passed through in 2018, Sihanoukville was an open-air Chinese construction site with buildings going up everywhere. I’d never seen such a real estate boom. We "escaped" after 2 hours. But you’re saying everything was abandoned? Those awful buildings left unfinished?

Yeah, I think you're right. I had a doubt... Thanks for the correction.

Hi Solene,

Here’s a link from *Courrier International*: https://www.courrierinternational.com/video/video-au-cambodge-sihanoukville-n-a-plus-que-ses-immeubles-fantomes-pour-pleurer

My first trip to Thailand/Cambodia was back in 2005, and I spent a week in Sihanoukville. There were a lot of businesses run by Westerners and already some Chinese presence. The beaches were really nice, the welcome was warm, etc., and there were already big buildings/hotels built by the Chinese.

I went back in 2007/2008: almost no Westerners left—they’d been kicked out. The Cambodians were pushed out and replaced by Chinese workers, and the construction sites were starting to slow down... Now, it’s just skeletons of buildings, except, of course, for the major projects tied to the New Silk Road: the military port at Ream, the Sihanoukville-Phnom Penh highway, and—horror of horrors—a canal that would end up in Kep, a place I’d gone back to because I loved its laid-back, old-world vibe so much...

Laos and Cambodia are off my list now. I don’t want to see the disaster—the way China is destroying all the countries around it...

In Laos, I took a boat down the Nong Khai-Luang Prabang route, something that’s impossible today... thanks, Xi!!! PS: There’s a Francophone press in Cambodia that you can check out online.

Have a great day

Hi

You finally reveal in the epilogue a point that had me wondering during the reading: the back-and-forth between Thailand in minor and Laos in major.

I totally agree with you on that. Like you, I prefer a kind of unity in travels, a search for coherence to try and grasp the identity of a country or region. However, I don’t think it bothered my companions.

Needless to say, unsurprisingly, what you shared about Laos and the landscapes you showed really spoke to me and reinforced my desire to go there one day. Your account gave me the impression that it was more touristy than I thought—am I wrong?

You’re touching on a tricky point here. What makes a country more "touristy" or too touristy? It’s all about balance. But to answer your question, it was mainly in Luang Prabang that I felt this pressure of overtourism. Elsewhere, especially in the south, the vibe was more of a "backpackers" atmosphere.

Next trip?

Kate and I were thinking of Oman, Malaysia, or a combo of Mumbai and Sri Lanka. And if the geopolitical situation becomes unmanageable in those parts of the world, Kate will certainly want to return to her beloved Morocco.

Thanks so much for your feedback anyway.