Bolivia: Exploring the South Lipez by Self-Drive (page 14 of 21)

If it’s really -20 at night, I know someone who, come morning, will warm up only by yelling at me and asking why I dragged her into this mess... And then she’ll start dreaming again about the extreme summer temps in the US West!!! The world upside down, really...

I’m seriously put off too...

But no, you just need the right clothes and a good sleeping bag for the night 😄🥶😨

Yeah, we didn’t suffer from the cold.😛 But I imagine the cold is much harsher in July-August.

Hi Carmen,

The cold is especially biting in July-August. My feet and hands still remember the wind-exposed refuges at nearly 4,000m altitude... Back then, our gear wasn’t as high-performance as it is now. (But we were younger too.) I remember a young girl whose jacket was basically... a denim jacket! She really suffered.😮

I don’t think we ever had -20 at night. I skied once at -18 and it was pretty tough to handle.

You do like us—rent a car without a thermometer... When you don’t know, it’s easier to deal with. 😄

If it’s really -20 at night

When I went to the El Tatio geysers in Chile, on the other side of the border, it was -18 at dawn in July...

But like at the Salar, with no wind, the sun was deliciously warm during the day.

Hi there,

The cold is particularly biting in July-August.

Yeah, I can believe that. During that time, you might want to skip sleeping in the car.

My feet and hands still remember the wind-exposed refuges at nearly 4,000m altitude... Back then, our gear wasn’t as high-performance as it is now. (But we were younger too).

True, equipment has really improved. But for people who’ll only use it for one trip, it’s a pretty big budget. -10°C comfort sleeping bags are super expensive, and merino clothing and the like aren’t cheap either. We use this kind of gear regularly, so it’s worth investing in quality.

I remember a young girl whose jacket was basically... a denim jacket! She suffered.😮

It’s a bit like tourists walking on glaciers in sneakers—or worse, flip-flops. Apparently, some have even tried climbing Mont Blanc in sneakers.🏴‍☠️

les vêtements mérinos

Is it thin or thick? Can you wear it directly on your skin, unlike wool? I'm looking for something warm and not bulky for the high-altitude parts of my trip to Argentina.

Is it thin or thick? Can it be worn directly on the skin, unlike wool?

It’s thin and lightweight. Yes, it can be worn directly on the skin... Try it, and you’ll love it. I only wear merino wool T-shirts during treks now. Plus, it’s guaranteed odor-resistant!

Hi Carmen. I’ve slept in a car several times with a 0°C sleeping bag, even in slightly negative temperatures—I can sleep in just underwear and socks without any problem. If it gets colder, I stay dressed according to how cold I feel. I prefer sleeping in a car over an uninsulated, unheated room. I know I’ll get an earful from the eco-conscious crowd, but in the car, if it gets unbearably cold, I can start the engine for a few minutes and get some heat. Same thing in the morning—just a few minutes before getting out of the sleeping bag. As for the Altiplano, it’ll be the same as Chile and Argentina—either late October/early November or at the latest mid-November. I’m hoping to avoid the worst of the cold and also the rains that start in December. Bernard.

Is it thin or thick?

You can find some that are very thin and others that are slightly thicker. I tend to get cold easily, so I have a 260g base layer. My husband has a 180g one, but I think there are also 150g options.

Can you wear it directly on your skin, unlike wool? I’m looking for something warm and not bulky for the high-altitude parts of my trip to Argentina.

Yes, you wear them directly on your skin. The T-shirts are often blended. 100% merino wool can be a bit delicate (prone to holes), especially if you get a summer-weight T-shirt. Non-blended ones wear out quickly around backpack straps.

Mine are 52% merino, 25% lyocell, and 13% nylon. They’re cool-lite, perfect for summer hiking. So they’re more for odor control than keeping you warm. But you can easily wear them under a merino zip-up sweater.

For warmth, I have a long-sleeve merino base layer (260g, 100% merino) and a hooded zip-up sweater with extra-long sleeves and thumbholes, made of 98% merino and 2% elastane. I love the latter—I wear it over a merino T-shirt when it’s cold. I wore it every day in the South Lipez. It packs down really small, so I keep it in my carry-on.

Unfortunately, sweaters, especially zip-up ones, are pretty expensive. But you can often find last season’s models and colors on sale.

Also really handy: a down jacket you can compress into a tiny ball. It’s lightweight, warm, and not bulky.

I know I’ll make the eco-conscious howl, but in the car, if it’s unbearably cold, I can run the engine for a few minutes to get some heat. Same thing in the morning—just a few minutes before crawling out of the sleeping bag.

I don’t know if running the engine for a few minutes is enough to keep the car warm for the next few hours. We didn’t try it, but I think the car won’t stay warm for long. Anyway, in my opinion, it’s better to be well-equipped and not rely on the car’s heating.

Regarding the Altiplano, it’ll be the same as for Chile and Argentina—either late October/early November or at the latest mid-November. I’m hoping to avoid the worst cold and also the rains that start in December. Bernard.

True, you’ll probably be warmer than we were. Jean-Louis left after us and had much less cold. But you’re never safe from a cold snap, and in the South Lipez, you’re mostly above 4,000 m with the cold that comes with it.

Personally, I would’ve been way too cold in a sleeping bag rated for 0°C comfort. It was much colder than 0°C, and I’m pretty sensitive to the cold.

Personally, I find that even Merino wool "pricks" a bit. But it’s true that it’s effective.

a hoodie with a zipper and very long sleeves

Since Jeff says you can still feel it’s wool, I think I’ll go for this kind of product that isn’t worn next to the skin.

Which brands do you recommend?

I think you should try it on in a store to see if the merino wool itches. To stay warm, you should actually wear it against your skin. But maybe it still works if you have another layer underneath... Worth a try, and maybe ask for advice at a good sports store.

Personally, I always buy the Icebreaker brand.

Under my merino sweater, I'm wearing a merino t-shirt.

Personally, I always buy the Icebreaker brand.

I also have a Merino T-shirt from this brand. No complaints, but it’s a bit pricey. Otherwise, I own a short-sleeved Odlo and a long-sleeved Bergans. Both are really great, actually. 100% merino wool. They don’t itch at all. I also have some with a wool blend that I wear during treks, even in warm weather.

Hello again. You're right, running the engine for a few minutes isn't enough to heat the cabin for the rest of the night. But I've been woken up by the cold before, and a few minutes with the heater on is still nice. After that, I turn it off and go back to sleep. Of course, I only do this when it's really cold—it’s also a safety measure then. Bernard.

Icebreaker is the specialist for Merino wool. Sure, it’s not cheap.

When it comes to "scratchiness," everyone has their own sensitivity level, and I’ll admit I’m very sensitive to it. I gave my Icebreaker T-shirt to my son because I didn’t like it 😮. So it’s best to try it out 😉.

I misspoke: I was referring to a day in the immediate area around Tupiza, not Tupiza itself. We ended up booking the car for 12 days. We’ll spend 7 days in the Southern Lipez, 2 days in the Uyuni Salt Flat, and 3 days in Sajama Park. We’ll visit fewer lagoons than you did (we’ll have to make choices), but there’s no way we’d try to cram in as many as possible in the least amount of time, like some of the people you ran into who just took a few quick photos and left right away! I have a question: could you lower the back seats all the way and stretch out to sleep in the car, or did you recline the front seat and sleep in a "semi-seated" position? Another question: I’m trying to book a flight with Amazonas to go from Santa Cruz to Sucre. But every time, when I try to pay, I get an error message telling me to try again later. I’ve tried with three different credit cards, but I keep getting the same message. Did you run into this kind of issue when booking? Or did you fly with the national airline? Thanks for the info... 😊

We’ll visit slightly fewer lagoons than you (you’ll have to make a choice), but it’s out of the question to try to do as many as possible in the shortest time, like some people you’ve come across who were content to quickly take a few photos and leave just as fast!

Almost all tourists do the Southern Lipez in 3, 4, or 5 days (including the Salar). So you’ve got way more time.

I have a question: could you lower the back seats completely and stretch out to sleep in the car, or did you recline the front seat and sleep in a "semi-seated" position?

You can’t lower the back seat in the Hilux since the trunk is separate from the cabin. If you want to lower the back seat, you’ll need to rent a different car.

The front seat backrest folds completely flat onto the back seat. You’re almost lying flat. For your feet, you can use a bag or a box to keep them straight. Personally, I didn’t use anything—it didn’t bother me at all for sleeping.

Another question: I’m trying to book a flight with Amazonas to go from Santa Cruz to Sucre. But every time, when I try to pay, I get an error message telling me to try again later. I’ve tried with three different credit cards, but I keep getting the same message. Did you have this kind of problem when booking? Or did you fly with the national airline? Thanks for the info... 😊

I’ve read multiple times that people have had issues booking with Amazonas or BOA. I didn’t even try—I bought my tickets through an agency (online) in Switzerland. I paid the same price, so it worked out perfectly. If you’d like, I can give you the name in a private message.

Amazing travel journal! Huge thanks for sharing your whole experience, your descriptions, and your gorgeous photos. I was actually looking for recent self-drive travel journals in the South Lipez for my first trip to Bolivia. Can’t wait for the next part!