South Africa in Three Trips (page 2 of 5)

From this deck then...









In the end, it wasn’t elephants blocking the road



General views

Just before... a jetty that overlooks the bush and lets you reach the edge of the Limpopo from above. No elephants under our feet—what a shame!









On the way back.











Like I said, no lions...

Leokwe camp

It's an open camp... well, there are no lions...

Very well-equipped rondavels with a large outdoor terrace



It forms a sort of circle.... There's a pool...







It's in a sort of "stone amphitheater"

So it's a camp, open...

The elephants are there frequently...





The pool was even designed for them...







Then comes nighttime... The large outdoor terrace overlooks the ground slightly. So you dine peacefully... perfect braai.

An elephant doesn’t make a sound. The elephant patrol in *Mowgli* is nonsense—they’re totally discreet. You hear them when they eat or move through branches... obviously if they trumpet... So, in the evening, suddenly I hear a little something. A big something... the whole group passes right by the edge of the terrace, circles the chalets... No photos (no flash), but a magical moment. Proof? The tracks the next morning surrounding our chalet...



They pass along the west side of the camp and then climb up the rocks.





With a thousand precautions, I retraced the same path...

View of the camp

When it wants to be fun, it really is...

Early morning, we set off as planned for the depths of the park (still the eastern part, not the western section where the lions are...)

Then, a South African couple points out leopards on the first big rock formation just outside the camp. Turns out, it’s a mother with two cubs. We’ll search for them, watch them, and follow them for an hour.

Mapungubwe Recap

Watch out for the season—it can get chilly or scorching hot...

Fewer animals than in Kruger National Park, obviously, but with a bit of luck... you might spot leopards or even lions (in the West). Elephants, buffaloes, antelopes, and others are a sure thing. Leokwe = awesome camp.

Alright, I’ll stop with the photos of this place I love so much. Next time, I’ll try the Western part.

You already knew it was Mapungubwe in March 2022 and May 2023.

From there, full west to Kruger National Park (KNP). You’ll need to plan a full day, especially since our destination was Shingwedzi.

The road isn’t too bad... let’s just say it’s much better now. In the area, Alldays—where over 15 years ago we simply had lunch and crossed paths with a touching couple of (white) farmers at their Sunday midday restaurant (you’ll have to check my old travel journals for that). Alldays has grown... Same for Musina, which seems less worried about Zimbabwe’s collapse. In both places, you can eat and stock up on supplies. Musina is a lively Black town, but no issues for us.

So, Pafuri Gate all the way north. In March, the vegetation is *super* dense, and visibility is very limited. It’s a bit better in May.

For Kruger, which I explored in 2022 and 2023 from North to South and South to North, then in 2024 from Orpen to the North...

I’ll skip some details and share my impressions in no particular order. From Pafuri to Shingwedzi The North is stunning... A few photos











Sirheni Camp: a small camp with a few chalets. No facilities, but the chalets are super well-equipped and open directly onto the bush. Remote spot with LOOOOTS of elephants... and plenty of other wildlife thanks to the river. Just a heads-up—the "lake" mentioned on the SAN Parks website dried up years ago...



Lots of animals, but no big cats

Leokwe = super camp

I see the elephants still visit the locals here. 😛

For me, Shingwedzi is the most beautiful camp. The chalets are really nice, and thanks to the river, there are lots of animals.

Anecdotes

South Africans love to poke fun at Americans from the US

Who wonder if South Africa is civilized, who are afraid of their own shadow... At Shingwedzi, in front of the board listing the day’s sightings, I overhear a conversation between a guide and his American clients. You can spot them by their accent and outfits. "Well, yes, we’ll be in Pafuri tonight, but we need to hurry a bit," says the guide. "Why don’t we just get a helicopter?" replies his client.

For a moment, I catch the guide’s eye—the sheer disbelief and despair in his gaze... "Well, we won’t see the animals from a helicopter," the guide explains. "Call Eurocopter!"

I didn’t stick around for the rest, but I’ll remember that idea.

Second anecdote:

I come out of the restroom, and a slightly younger man approaches me, speaking French. "So, how’s your vacation going?" "Great, just like usual." "Ooooh, but you’re *the* famous Frenchman!" "The… famous Frenchman?" "Oh yes, you’re the famous Frenchman who’s been coming to South Africa for years!" "Uh…" "And you’re *so* good at braai!" "Uh…"

That’s when he stopped grilling me... Turns out he’d met some South Africans we’d chatted with at a previous camp, and they’d told him about me...

So my fame is still pretty relative.

In South Africa, that is...

An elephant playing hide and seek

Mopani

A camp I find a bit outdated, but...

A view of the water reservoir, a view...

I’m using my travel journal to remind everyone about my post on Petting a Lion in South Africa Filed under thoughts and reflections

So many great memories—taking notes for the northern Kruger, which I haven’t explored yet! 🙂

What stunning photos! Wow! What camera lens are you using? Is a 400mm zoom enough? For birdwatching, is Shingwezdi a good rest camp? Thanks for these amazing shots!!!

Regarding Kruger, I can only recommend the Map and Guide booklets as a first purchase. In my opinion, they're essential as a map of the area. They also include estimated travel times between camps and between camps and the various gates. Remember that after the closing time, it's too late, and you must be inside a camp by the time it closes—closing times vary by season. You risk reprimands and fines. You won’t be allowed to leave until opening time.

For the camps: 5:30 AM - 6:00 PM in October and March 4:30 AM - 6:30 PM from November to January 6:00 AM - 6:00 PM in April, August, and September 6:00 AM - 5:30 PM in May, June, and July

For the gates: 5:30 AM - 6:30 PM from November to February 5:30 AM - 6:00 PM in October and March 6:00 AM - 6:00 PM in April, August, and September 6:00 AM - 5:30 PM in May, June, and July 5:30 AM from October to March. 6:30 PM closing.

Golden hour!

The first and last hour of the day. That’s when the predators head out or return... or feast, come to drink. The intense midday heat means everyone’s in off mode. Except for exceptions, of course.

On the maps, you’ll find suggested routes with estimated travel times.

The gates: From north to south: Pafuri, Punda Maria, Phalaborwa (pronounced Falaborwa), Orpen, Paul Krüger, Phabeni, Numbi, Malelane, Crocodile Bridge (which may be closed in case of flooding).

For the Main camps (camp +/- restaurant +/- laundry, +/- pool...), check the SANparks website: Punda Maria, Shingwedzi, Mopani, Letaba, Olifants, Satara, then the southern part with Skukuza (a huge, very "urban" camp—some love the return to city life, especially since it’s a great spot for leopards), Lower Sabie, Pretoriuskop, Berg-en-Dal, Malelane, Crocodile Bridge). Personally, I haven’t been to all of them... Punda Maria: the gate has been redone, but the camp doesn’t inspire me. I love Shingwedzi, Mopani is great for its views and surroundings, Olifants also has a magnificent view, Letaba (for me, an old-school camp but its surroundings are ++), Satara (a camp famous for predators, as is Orpen—small and without a proper restaurant), Berg-en-Dal (very nice and the rhino area), Lower Sabie (large and practical). Malelane is on the edge, right on the KNP border... not really a "lost in the wild" vibe.

Lots of smaller camps, like Sirheni, which I really like... I don’t know the others. On the maps... important... the rest stops! More or less spacious but always clean. Oh, I remember Mrs. Attila made a detailed travel journal...

General idea (I don’t camp): Game drive on your own (your car, basically). If you like it, you get up early, return in the morning, or head to the next camp and go out again around 3 PM for the evening drive. In many places, you can book drives with park rangers or even game walks. Nota bene... Game walks: done with one or two armed rangers (not slingshots!) and a small group. You still need to be fit or at least not the slowest runner (the goal isn’t to outrun the lion but to not be the slowest). The big camps are fenced... but... intruders can get in (rare but it happens), monkeys are often everywhere (to the point that locking the fridge and not leaving anything out must be an obsession)... and snakes exist!

In short, game walks... You’re a ranger leading people into the bush (often novices)... Every day. If you know lions are to the north... well, you go south! Animal encounters are usually low-key... but it’s the atmosphere! !

In game walk or any other... Rule 1: don’t run. Movement attracts movement. Rule 2: group together in a block, make yourselves big by raising your arms, cap in hand. Rule 3: depending on the situation... shout or stay still...

The most dangerous animal on foot is the buffalo. While the risk is almost zero in a car, on foot, it charges...

Anecdote: In Mountain Zebra, tracking cheetahs with an antenna and a guide... Very unique cheetahs that prefer mountains to plains. The climb is tough. Buffaloes in the distance. "No worries, they’re far away—lucky for us because we don’t have any trees to take refuge in; they’d come charging downhill." On the way down, the buffaloes aren’t that far... Ranger with a rifle leading the group, clapping regularly, throwing rocks into the bushes as a precaution, etc.

Anecdote: An elephant that *really* charges. It comes running (you guessed it, right?). Head down, ears pinned back, trunk tucked under, tail raised (hard to spot the tail up). Don’t move—but it’s not looking good. Elephant trying to intimidate: Ears spread out, trunk raised, head held high... Don’t move! Group together, raise your arms, strong and firm voice, don’t let your knees shake...

I’ll also add the Orpen satellite camp, Tambotti—a really superb tented camp with no restaurant. And Biyamiti, a small camp without a restaurant, halfway between Berg-en-Dal and Lower Sabie.

I once did a game walk, and the guide led us toward the lions we could hear. But as soon as they saw us, they bolted.

Put yourself in their shoes Roarhjulie that’s scary!