A wonderful week around Tromsø, Kvaløya, and the Lyngen Alps (page 2 of 2)

The last hike we did on Kvaloya Island is Trehorningen.

Well, to be honest, we didn’t do the whole thing. We followed the trail on AllTrails called "Belvika view." The starting point is the same, and it’s the same path, except we stopped well before the summit of Trehorningen. In snowy conditions, that’s already not bad! The climb is pretty steep (150 m elevation gain over 700 meters), and the view is already stunning.

A lovely view along the way:



When we went, the snow was sticky, and every 20 meters or so, we had to knock off big clumps of packed snow from our crampons. The terrain is quite soft, and we had to step over fallen logs and low branches. Needless to say, progress wasn’t fast. AllTrails says the round trip takes about 45 minutes on average... That’s how long it took us just to go one way! I imagine the route is much more manageable in good weather—maybe not a hike to tackle in winter.

And yet, it’s so beautiful with that fresh blanket of snow!



The advantage of going all the way to the summit is that you get views on both sides of the hill and all the way to Skulsfjord. It must be worth pushing to the end, especially since we’d already done the hardest part. Once you reach the Belvika viewpoint, there are no more trees, the ground is rocky and harder, and the terrain flattens out a bit. We were short on time, but here’s a tip: if the climb hasn’t worn you out, keep going!

These landscapes are truly stunning—I don’t think the vibe is quite as amazing in the summer 😅

Oh, I don’t know. The midnight sun in July must be something else, though. I’d love to be part of a test group to compare the vibe, crowds, and light at all seasons 😎

These landscapes are truly magnificent—I don’t think the atmosphere is quite as amazing in summer 😅

Personally, I found the landscapes in northern Norway stunning in July. It’s awesome being able to stroll on the beach at midnight without the sun fully setting. You also feel like you have way more time to explore. Well, it’s not just a feeling. ;)

Ah, I don’t know. The midnight sun in July must be something else, though. I’d love to be part of a test panel to compare the atmosphere, crowds, and light in all seasons 😎

Personally, winter draws me in for the northern lights. But you never know—you need the weather to cooperate. Either way, your photos make me want to go in winter. Thanks for this travel journal! 🙂

Personally, winter appeals to me for the northern lights.

The northern lights weren’t our top priority, but we were still hoping to see them. Over a week, we managed to see them on two evenings without even leaving our accommodation. But honestly, I think they’re a bit overrated 😉 To the naked eye, they don’t look anything like the colors in the photos.

Anyway, your photos make me want to go there in winter. Thanks for this travel journal!🙂

Thanks! And thanks for reading 🙂

Off we go for the last hike: Lyngstuva fyr in the stunning Lyngen Alps.

The journey is a bit long, but the landscapes scrolling by are so beautiful that time flies! From Tromsø, you have to cross the Breivikeidet valley (1 hour), where the road ends at a quay. A ferry takes over to cross the sound to Svensby (20-minute crossing), then you continue the road to the Russelv parking lot (50 minutes).





In summer, the parking lot is paid, but off-season, a priori, it’s free. Anyway, the sign was on the ground, hidden behind the toilets, so we assumed it wasn’t necessary to pay.

The parking lot is a real ice rink, so we set off with crampons on the path that runs along the sea. We walk at a good pace while others, without crampons, zigzag to avoid the snow and black ice.



The path leaves the seaside and climbs to go around the hill behind which the Lyngstuva lighthouse is hidden. The black ice gives way to snow. The route is easy to follow, with red paint markings clearly visible on the rocks. As we approach the lighthouse, some sections are a bit steep, but using your hands makes it manageable. That said, thank goodness we had crampons—otherwise, the sloping and icy areas would’ve been really tough to handle! We saw about fifteen people on the coastal path, but none of them were equipped. As a result, at the lighthouse, we only ran into two people. The others probably couldn’t make it up the hillside part of the hike.

Once we cleared the hill, the lighthouse finally came into view.



There was still a bit of a trek over the rocks to reach the base of the lighthouse and its cabin. It was the time when fishing boats return to the harbor, one after another. It was so peaceful... Not a sound to be heard.





The cabin is open to everyone for a rest. Inside, there’s coffee, tea bags, candles, and everything you need to make a fire. I suggested to the boys that we have our picnic "warm" inside the cabin, but they weren’t really into it. It’s true that it’s pretty rustic and cramped, but it’s definitely warmer than outside. They preferred to climb back up the hill to find a sunny spot. So, we left this little haven of peace to find a sunlit rock where we could eat without freezing.

According to the info I’d found, the hike was supposed to be 6 km. In reality, it was 7.5 km. We took 3 hours for the round trip, including the lunch break. It’s probably quicker in the summer without the crampons.

We loved the Lyngen Alps. We went back for a snowmobile trip through these stunning landscapes—between peaks over 1,800 meters high, spruce forests, frozen lakes, deep fjords, and those adorable *rorbuer*... There’s something powerful there that’s hard to put into words. There’s also the silence, the boats gliding on the calm sea, the politeness of the people, and the lack of crowds. All of this creates such a pleasant and serene atmosphere that we found it hard to leave!

Hello Virginie,

The northern lights weren’t our priority, but we were still hoping to see them. Over a week, we managed to see them on 2 evenings without even leaving our accommodation. But honestly, I think they’re a bit overrated ;) To the naked eye, they don’t look anything like the colors in photos.

It depends—last summer, we saw them with the naked eye, and they were a bright green!

For the northern lights, I think it depends on the intensity of solar activity. Our daughter saw them several times in northern Finland—sometimes barely visible, but actually more intense in photos, and twice really well.

But you’ve seen them, and that’s what matters. Not everyone gets that lucky.

Saying that life in Norway is very expensive is an oversimplification that might discourage people from going. What’s expensive are the services because salaries are more than twice those in France. For food, it’s about 15% pricier if you choose your products wisely. I’ve been visiting the Tromsø area every March for ten years, and for example, in 2024, for a group of 5 people on a 13-day trip (11 days on-site), the total cost per person was 1200 € all-inclusive—quality house with 5 bedrooms, two cars including gas and ferry, food (beer included), and flights from Toulouse with skis. For cars, book well in advance on platforms. Reserve a mid-size sedan, and you’ll often get a bigger car because they have very few mid-size vehicles.

Hi Virginie, Thanks for this really lovely travel journal that I’ve only just discovered—it might give me some ideas, just like Iceland did! And for 2026, what’s the destination? Cheers, Laure

Hey hi Laure

Thanks for stopping by, it’s really nice 🙂 You know I read, re-read, and re-re-read your travel journal about the northwest US. Along with Peggy’s, it really helped me plan our trip last year.

Glad this journal gave you the urge to check out the Tromsø area. It’s such a beautiful place. And there’s something addictive about it—we really want to go back! In fact, we spent our summer vacation in Norway again.

Early 2026, our destination will be a bit warmer We’re heading to Thailand. And we’re planning to return to South Africa in July, but flight tickets have gotten so much more expensive, I think. I’m budgeting everything now, and we’ll have to decide soon because accommodations in Kruger are filling up.

What about you—any plans?

Hi Virginie,

Oh, I’m so glad the travel journals are useful! And thanks to yours, I finally decided to go for Iceland in May. Norway last summer—oh, but guess what, that’s the destination I’m thinking about for next summer! A trekking trip on Senja Island, with maybe a stop in the Lofoten Islands to climb the two peaks we couldn’t do in 2023. Otherwise, I’m also considering a trek in Scotland in May. But none of this is planned yet... I see you’ve got plenty of projects too—it’s great! Wishing you all the best.

Laure