Trip to Madagascar in 2026: Nosy Be or Île Sainte-Marie? (page 2 of 2)

sorry but I’ve been getting by on my own in Madagascar for over 30 years—I know the island pretty well thanks, but I thought ads weren’t allowed on the site!!! weird

One small downside: Antongil Bay is off Maroantsetra. It’s a bit more than just a little south! It’s a whole different trip and nothing like Diego.

Île Sainte-Marie then the Ampefy/Antsirabe loop is a really great choice. And with time for the North as well, it’s perfect.

The Ampefy to Antsirabe stretch is truly stunning and the ideal way to see the highlands landscapes. Because, and this is becoming rare, the road is good, so it’s a pleasure for both the eyes and the back. If I go back, I’ll see if there’s a chance to stay in Faratsiho because the valley and the surrounding rice fields are gorgeous. I’d love to take the time to walk around there a bit.

Watch out in Ampefy if it’s a weekend—lots of people at the main sites (geyser, Lily Falls). Mostly Malagasy, mainly students and catechists out on a spree from Tana. The vibe is fun, but you won’t be alone.

Thanks to you, rotsaka! It’s based on your advice that I’m doing this loop—and in this direction, too! Yes, I’m also planning to spend a bit of time in Faratsiho. I have Malagasy friends who know the area well, especially Madame, who was born in that little town in 1940!!! I hope to bring her some photos—her dad tried sheep farming, but it failed because a plant would get stuck in their wool and cause sores.

For Sainte Marie, I’m staying at Hôtel Atafana, 10 km north of Ambodifototra. A buddy of mine was there in 2024.

Thanks again for the info!

I’m also planning to spend some time in Faratsiho. I have Malagasy friends who know the area well, especially the woman who was born in this small town back in 1940.

That’s awesome. It’s really great to visit this area and this village (which is quite significant) with that family history in the background. The place is gorgeous—you’ll see a few sheep here and there. Maybe even descendants of those sheep from the 1940s!

As for Atafana, we just passed by because at the start of our trip, we were a bit further north at Natiora Green Lodge. It’s a really nice little bay, but a bit too remote for our taste. We didn’t stay long, but the whole area is stunning.

okay, we’re two couples (our companions are coming to Madagascar for the first time, but only for three weeks, so I had to plan a trip without too much driving). We’re flying back from Sainte-Marie (promo from Sainte-Marie to Tana at 26 € per person until March 15th).

In Ampefy, we’ll go to Jacky’s place, where your in-laws went, and have a meal on the terrace like usual. We’ll be there during the week, which is another great reason to do everything in this order.

Thanks again for all the info!

In the north, I’ve seen—I hope the fords on the Mahavavy and Ifatsy rivers will be operational. We’re tempted by a stop on the Nosy Faly peninsula, across from Nosy Be to the north. Have you been there?

At 26 €, you shouldn’t hesitate—it’s a no-brainer. We also took the flight, but it wasn’t at that price.

I don’t know Nosy Faly, but from what I’ve heard, it’s a gorgeous spot.

okay, if we stop there, we can spend two nights—there are three hotels: one luxury and one budget. We’ll see, I’ve already made contacts with all these places. What else could I do in Nosy Be? 😎😉😏 I’ll keep you posted after I get back at the end of November. For the flight, it’s 26 € one-way. We’re going to Sainte-Marie by boat. Which company did you take if you did the boat? Last time I went, it was from Manompana with a fishing boat.

I spent 3 nights on Nosy Faly this February. 3 days of rain, everything closed, the track flooded and impassable by motorbike! But otherwise, it’s the end of the world. No one around! In the dry season, it must be nicer. The track connecting the island to the RN6 is good. The crossing is done by pirogue, and there are 2 or 3 tuk-tuks on the island, so I think it’s unnecessary to cross in a 4x4—at least, I didn’t see any vehicles. There’s nothing there—just 3 miserable little eateries serving rice and fish. On the stalls, 3 tiny tomatoes, no vegetables, not even bananas! I slept in a small bungalow for 15,000 AR per night, on a mattress that must’ve been 3 cm thick. Nothing else was open. But in a nice hotel during the dry season, it’ll probably be better. The nature is stunning—lush vegetation and beautiful beaches. Aside from phones and a few solar panels, nothing has changed there in 60 years.

thanks for the info yeah I think I’ll stick to the peninsula and just take a trip to the island I’ll see depending on the time because I like to take it easy "mora mora" thanks to you

Even one-way, it's a great price considering the kilometers of rough roads and the night in Tamatave it saves. A real good deal.

We're eagerly waiting for the post-trip report, given all the places you've covered and where firsthand info would be super helpful.

About the last trip, we flew round-trip, and my previous trip, which was 4 years ago now, was with Cap Ste Marie. Went really well. But that was a while ago now.

hi since I haven’t taken the boat from Soanierana recently, do you have the phone number for Cap Ste Marie to make a reservation in advance if it’s necessary? thanks in advance

Hi there, This is the number I found: +261320521808. I went the day before to secure my spot. It was something like 23 € round-trip, bus transport included. The meet-up was at 4 AM the next day. But as I said, that was a while ago (4 years), so it’s not exactly up-to-date info.

thanks for the phone number, by the way! I really want to share a bit about the routes and arriving by boat at Sainte-Marie. Thanks to you! ;)

Hi Golfouette, After visiting Madagascar seven times, during one of my stays I went to Nosy Be. The least I can say is that I don’t have unforgettable memories of it... Very touristy, with all that comes with that term—"prostitution, bars..." I’d only recommend Sainte Marie to you—much calmer and more relaxing. I agree with you on the beauty of the beaches in the Malagasy Deep South; Nosy Be’s beaches don’t offer anything more and are overcrowded. Up north, I’d suggest Ramena. The last time I was there, six years ago, I remember it as a little piece of paradise. Serge

Thanks Serge! We went to Anakao, Lavanono, and Itampolo back in 2007—it’s gonna be 20 years soon, I can’t believe it! Ramena is on my itinerary now, thanks!

hi we did the route via Ampanihy in 1996 in a Peugeot 405 Break—took three days. It was early December, already a few showers and some *very* sporty river crossings. In 2010, we took the coastal route (called the "Lobster Road")—Fort Dauphin, False Cape, Cape Sainte-Marie, Itampolo, the Anakao reserve, and back to Tulear, all by road in 12 days. Absolutely stunning, but that was in a 4x4. For Anakao, we went in 1991, 1999, and 2002 by pirogue from Tulear. Really amazing memories!

It sounds dreamy....