Grand tour of Argentina March 2025 (page 2 of 3)

Day 17: Heading to Purmamarca This is the first time we’ve slept in until 8:30 a.m. Feels good too... Took a little stroll around the village of Humahuaca before hitting the road.









We stopped again in Tilcara for lunch before continuing to Purmamarca to wander around its (touristy) market. We ran into a couple from Buenos Aires we’d hiked with yesterday morning.









I found an amazing place to stay here—almost like a whole house just for the two of us. Two separate bedrooms, a living room, and a sunny terrace (La Vilti Casa de Purmamarca). Such a great spot, and the price? 35,500 € per room—the same as yesterday, even though Humahuaca was pretty basic. We’ll just relax here this afternoon. Feels good to unwind before dinner—spaghetti bolognese tonight!

Hi there,

Why did you choose to do the hike with a guide? Isn’t it possible to do it independently?

Hello

Why did you choose to do the hike with a guide? Isn't it possible to do it independently?

No, it's impossible without a local guide. They all wait at the entrance to the site, but we met Carolina and booked with her. A tad more expensive, but so much more interesting

Day 18: Heading to Jujuy We eat our pastries at the house before hitting the winding road up to a pass at 4,150m—and then more switchbacks down to the Salinas Grandes. We’re relaxed and soaking in the beautiful scenery.







We pay 1500 € per person to walk on the salt desert with a guide who’ll also act as our photographer for some “special” shots.













Lunch on-site, then we take the same road back.

Back in Purmamarca, we do the hike to the pretty colors "Paseo de los Colorados" (paid, 1500 per person) before buying a few souvenirs.







Our day ends in Jujuy. When we arrive at the hotel: no one. It makes sense since we’re the only ones at the hotel (a bit run-down Calchaquies Hostel).



There’s plenty to keep us busy while waiting for the owner. The car trunk won’t open anymore. Christian manages to climb through the back seats and open it from the inside. Phew. The quirk here in Jujuy is that restaurants don’t open until 8:30 PM. We stroll around the city center, which didn’t really impress us. Just a stopover town, that’s all.

Day 19: Heading to Cafayate After a basic breakfast, we head to Salta airport to switch cars, then leave at 12 PM toward the southern loop of Salta. Stop in El Carril for lunch. Excellent lamb chops with natural orange juice. They probably don’t go together, but it’s hot (30 degrees), and it’s a nice change from water during the day. We take our time all afternoon to explore the "Quebrada de las Conchas." Beautiful "Western" scenery before arriving in Cafayate.















Basic accommodation (Portal de las Viñas) before heading out to eat another good steak on the plaza.

Day 20: Cafayate

A little stroll around the village near the plaza before a 1-hour drive south toward the Quilmes ruins.



We wandered around this archaeological site for about an hour (12,000 ARS per person). Not so much for the state of the ruins, but for the pretty site full of cacti.









Back near Cafayate, at Finca Las Nubes. There was an option for a guided tour, but we preferred to stay and eat here while enjoying their good wine.





In the afternoon, we did a nice 3-hour guided hike in a canyon along a stream, very close to the finca (Cascadas del Río Colorado).







We had to change accommodations because "Portal de las Viñas" was fully booked. We found "L’Auletta" (69,000 ARS) located on the plaza. A charming old place run by an elderly couple. Excellent tapas platter at the restaurant "La Despensa" in a lovely setting (21,000 ARS per person). We’ll go back to exchange more dollars at yesterday’s restaurant, which offered a better blue rate than in Buenos Aires. Generally, we were able to exchange our euros/dollars outside of Buenos Aires. I forgot to mention that in El Chaltén, it was possible at our hostel and at a nearby bakery. And always at the blue rate.

Day 21: Heading to Cachi Quite a bit of dirt road today to reach Cachi, but through beautiful landscapes, especially around the Quebrada de las Flechas.









Lunch break at Finca El Carmen. Nice setting, but the tapas platter was definitely not as good as yesterday. Near Molinos, we took the "new" road under construction instead of making the detour as advised. Big mistake—while the first few kilometers were on a great road, after that it was still gravel, forcing us to go 20 km/h. Turns out it would’ve been better to take the detour instead of following the 4x4s ahead of us.



We didn’t arrive in Cachi until 5 PM in the end. A cute little all-white village—very peaceful. A lovely quiet stop.









And what about our amazing accommodation (Hospedaje Huaka Huasy 64000)? A whole house in the countryside, just 2 km from the center. It could even sleep 5 people in 2 bedrooms. Total love at first sight.

The stunning view from the accommodation

Tonight, we’re trying goat at the restaurant "El Aujero" (18000 pp).

Day 22: Return to Salta Another beautiful sunny and hot day. Phew, because in early March it was rainy here. Lovely cactus landscape as we passed through Los Cardones National Park, before tackling the "Cuesta del Obispo" and its 50 hairpin turns on the mountain descent.

















Back in Salta by 3:30 PM at the same place we stayed on Day 14. We’ll actually be dining at the same spot as the first time too— the "bife de chorizo" was just that good.

Day 23: Heading to Iguazu Took it easy this morning strolling around Salta since our flight to Puerto Iguazu wasn’t until 3 PM. The perk of booking our domestic flights well in advance was that we could snag a direct flight and skip Buenos Aires altogether.















A 30-minute bus ride to the Puerto Iguazu bus terminal. Our place is just a block away—super convenient. Hotel Ox (40 € per night). We also booked our round-trip bus tickets to the falls on both the Argentine side (14000 pp) and the Brazilian side (12000 pp) with Rio Uruguay.





Had a big, delicious pizza at "Holy Cervecería" (12000 pp)

Hi there,

In your opinion, if we only do one loop starting from Salta, which is the most spectacular in terms of landscapes? North or South?

Hi there,

In your opinion, if we only do one loop from Salta, which is the most spectacular in terms of landscapes? North or South?

Here’s my take: You need 4 days for each loop (or 3 if you're in a hurry). Things they have in common: - Cactus region, with a bit more in the south - Nice villages—more rustic in the north - Winding roads, like dirt tracks, in both north and south (more dirt tracks in the south though) - "Quebradas": 1 in the north, 2 in the south. The colors are different—more red in the north. The north has two special features: the salt flats and the mountain with 14 colors. To wrap up, I’d say you have to do both. It’s impossible to come to this region and settle for just one.

Thanks for the reply. I was also considering a guided excursion for a few days around the Puna region (high plateaus, salt flats, etc.). So, in two weeks (combined with Iguazu), it’s not possible to do both loops. Either I have to give up on something, or extend the trip (not easy)....

Thanks for the reply. I was also considering a guided excursion for a few days around the Puna (high plateaus, salt flats, etc.). So, in 2 weeks (combined with Iguazu), it’s not possible to do both loops. Either I’ll have to skip something or stay longer (not easy)...

If you’re planning to visit the Antofagasta/Tolar Grande area, it’s better to combine this excursion with the southern loop, which is nearby.

Day 24: Iguazu Falls on the Argentine side Early start because we're taking the first bus at 7:30 AM. Big advantage is arriving at 8 AM when the park opens, so we get to enjoy it with hardly anyone around. That definitely won’t be the case later in the morning. We started with the lower circuit, which was crowd-free. We thought it was more beautiful than the upper circuit.

















You have to wait for a little train that takes people to "El Garganta del Diablo," a gorge accessible from a packed platform, and you come out soaked from the spray.





Back to Puerto Iguazú in the late afternoon. It was really hot (felt like 34 °C). It felt great to relax at the hotel pool before having an early dinner at 6:30 PM. By 8 PM, we were already falling asleep. We’re starting to feel the travel fatigue piling up—on top of the heat.

Hi Muriel,

a guided excursion for a few days around the Puna

Yes, this excursion offers fantastic landscapes. One of our best travel experiences!

See here

Hi Michel

I’d already read this travel journal—thought it was on VF, but guess not! It’s pretty old... but the agency still exists (I find it’s not easy to get recent reviews on agencies that organize this kind of expedition, where you need to ensure at least a minimum of safety). Thanks for reminding me about this journal—the photos are really inspiring 🙂

I’d already read this travel journal—thought it was on VF!

That’s right, but it’s gone now…

Hi Muriel,

a guided excursion of a few days around the Puna

Yes, this excursion offers fantastic landscapes. One of our best travel experiences!

See here

This place had definitely caught our eye, but we had to make choices. And the price of the excursion was too expensive for us (850 € per person). Tolar Grande, private excursion in the Puna of Salta

Day 25: Heading to Buenos Aires Same timing as yesterday, meaning we left with the first bus at 7:30 AM. Quick border crossing with our bus, which isn’t the case if you cross by car. There was a huge line at the border. We arrived at opening time, 9 AM. We spent about 2 hours walking around in front of the falls on the Brazilian side. It’s much smaller than the Argentine side, but another equally beautiful way to appreciate the falls.

















It’s still really hot, and we’re happy to get back to Puerto Iguazú to eat at a Mexican restaurant with air conditioning. Relaxing afternoon by the pool before our evening flight at 7 PM, which arrives in Buenos Aires at 9 PM. Too bad the arrival is at the airport far from downtown (Ezeiza) instead of the closer one (Newbery): it’s a 1-hour trip instead of 15 minutes to reach the center. Taxi (40000 ARS) to the Palermo Hollywood neighborhood. Our Airbnb host is waiting for us, notified of the late arrival (10:30 PM) via WhatsApp (Nica Suites - 50 € per night)