Meghalaya: A Very Rainy Week (page 2 of 2)

Ah, the frustration of lost days during trips. As long as there’s only one, you’ll only remember the rest!

Thursday, April 24 I slept better last night. We were supposed to leave at 8 AM, but breakfast was brought to me at that time. We left the house around 9:30 AM. The road is winding, and we’re skirting along Bangladesh—the fence is impressive. Bangladesh is very flat with rice paddies. The weather is gray, with fog in some places, but no rain so far.



We stopped to visit some caves. Today they’re open, and there are a lot of visitors.



We arrived in Cherrapunjee around noon. Welbis took me to the market, which is less interesting than the one in Pynursla.



He knows a good restaurant that must be famous, judging by the number of cars parked outside. The entrance hall is packed—you have to order and pay for your dish before entering the dining area. They specialize in dosas. Welbis doesn’t want to eat with me because it’s too expensive for him. I invite him and order two butter masala dosas.



After the meal, we head to the homestay, and the rain starts. Welbis doesn’t want a room, but the rain intensifies, and a storm rolls in. It’s incredible—it’s a downpour, with violent thunderclaps. Thankfully, I’m sheltered. Eventually, Welbis takes the room next to mine. He doesn’t have a bathroom and comes to shower in mine. Outside, the path along the rooms has turned into a stream, and the water level is rising. I hope it doesn’t flood the room—it’s getting worrying. The wind, rain, and storm lasted all night.

Ah, the frustration of lost days during trips. As long as there’s only one, you’ll only remember the rest!

yeah, in the moment it’s annoying and the rain didn’t help but the overall outcome of the 40 days is still very positive. what a trip—3 very different states all so close to each other.[;]

Friday, April 25th The rain and storm have stopped, and the water in the alley has drained away. We leave the house at 7:30 AM, cross the village, and the road is dry—there aren’t even puddles on the sides, incredible. Welbis tells me as we’re leaving that we wouldn’t have been able to do the trek today because the rain is coming back before evening. We stop at the edge of the village to have breakfast.



- He’s taking me back to Shillong. Yesterday, he said he’d use the trip to see a doctor, but today he tells me he’s continuing all the way to Guwahati, where a couple of Israelis are waiting for him, and they’ll head to Kaziranga. Poor guy, he’s got so many roads ahead of him. When we arrive in Shillong, the traffic is hellish, and it takes us ages to get to the guesthouse. He’s really worried because the new tourists have arrived in Guwahati and are waiting for him at the airport. He drops me off at the entrance of the alley, and I give him his tip. He’s surprised and doesn’t want to accept it, but I insist. He’s so touched that he has tears in his eyes. He sent me a message when he arrived—he had to sleep in his car. Poor guy, after such a long trip, sleeping in his seat isn’t easy. His car is too small to fit a mattress. He checks in with me from time to time; he’s really kind. I settle into a room near the reception. It’s much smaller than the one I had last week. I set off on foot to visit the Don Bosco Museum. It’s really far, so I ask a taxi to take me there. He drops me off at an intersection, but the museum isn’t here—it’s actually quite a distance away. A man sees me looking lost and comes over to ask what I’m looking for. He offers to call a motorcycle taxi to take me there. He waits with me and explains to the driver exactly where to drop me off. People here are so friendly. The museum will be closed tomorrow in honor of the pope’s funeral. I’ve never seen that before—a museum closing for a funeral. This museum is a fascinating tribal museum. It spans several floors, and on the terrace, which you reach through a kind of tunnel, the 360° view is incredible.





At the exit, I head to Police Bazar. I find shortcuts with stairs that go almost all the way down to the market. I find a great restaurant for lunch and head back to the guesthouse at my own pace. Tonight, I’m dining at a nice restaurant in the neighborhood where I’m staying.

Saturday, April 26th I leave the house at 8 AM after breakfast. I walk down the street to find a taxi that takes me to the sumo departure point for Guwahati. As soon as I get out of the taxi, a man takes my bag and puts it on the roof of the sumo. We finally set off at 10 AM. The driver is faster than the one on the way there, and we arrive in Guwahati at noon. I take a rickshaw to the guesthouse and guide him down the street to the house.

I have the same room as last week. I pick up the bag I’d left behind and freshen up before heading out.

I have a few souvenir purchases to make at a local craft shop at the end of the street. Everyone in the family will get a little gift.

After that, I head to lunch at the Hangout restaurant near the planetarium. The service and food are still excellent. Today, it’s fried rice with vegetables and paneer. I really should’ve come here more often.

In the late afternoon, I go for a walk toward the Brahmaputra, where I’d spotted a garden along its edge. I pass by the beautiful colonial houses facing the High Court.

There are lots of us coming to enjoy the cool air in this park—the entrance is paid. Night falls quickly, and the tree-lined paths and flowerbeds light up. The water jets and fountains in the pools start up, giving the garden a whole new feel—it’s lovely.











I go back to the same restaurant for dinner and order Chicken 65—it’s way too much, so I leave some behind.

Sunday, April 27 This morning, for my last day, I treat myself to a little sleep-in and spend a good while reading in bed. I leave around 10 AM and head back to the garden I visited last night, where the Brahmaputra River Heritage is located. Cars aren’t allowed inside the grounds, so a pedestrian path through lawns and trees leads us to the house. The garden overlooks the Brahmaputra, and you can admire it from different viewpoints.

It’s a 170-year-old heritage bungalow. In the entrance hall of the bungalow, there’s an art gallery displaying paintings by various artists.

The next room, the River Lounge, has a ceiling decorated with traditional Assamese fishing equipment. Explanatory panels guide visitors, with the theme being life along the river.



Each room has a different theme, and all are beautifully decorated. You enter the colonial-style living room with many windows, wooden panels, and lovely decorations. The chandelier, shaped like an upside-down boat hanging from the ceiling, adds a unique touch. The furniture is elegant.



From there, you move into the meeting room with the theme "Sailing the River." Photos of ships that have navigated the river are displayed on the walls. The library room has two distinct sections. On one side, photos of the original bungalow, its restoration, and its current state are on display.



On the other side of the room, called the Majuli Corner, masks are exhibited.

Upstairs, the attic room is dedicated to numerous traditional musical instruments.



Today, it’s not possible to access the veranda because a reception is underway. This visit was really interesting—I’m glad I saved it for the end of my trip.

I don’t have any plans for the rest of the day. As I leave, a sign points to Fanzi Bazaar, so I cross the street and head there without really knowing where it is. It’s a fruit and vegetable market just how I like them.







I keep wandering for a while without really knowing where I’m going. I end up near a railway track—the level crossing is closed, so I wait for the train to pass in the middle of traffic.

Further on, under a bridge, women are serving meals to those in need.



Around 3 PM, I decide to head back using Maps.me because I have no idea where I am. I go to the same restaurant to eat momos.



Before heading back, I stop at an exceptional bakery.



I return to rest and pack my bag. I book a taxi for tomorrow morning at 7:30 AM. Back to Delhi—the afternoon is dedicated to last-minute shopping before my return flight.

End of my journey in this unknown land. I’m ready to go with Frédéric Lopez if any of you are lucky enough to know him—please put in a good word for me! 😉 😎😛

Thanks to everyone for following along. 😏

Thanks Marie Jo for this travel journal—these journals of your trip to the northeast.

It’s decided, I’ll go on my next trip, but I’ll have to make some choices since, as usual, I’ll only have two weeks. I’m thinking of focusing on Assam and a bit of Nagaland because from Majuli it seems like the logical next step. Unfortunately, I won’t catch the amazing tribal festivals since, as you know, my dates are fixed.

You really moved fast to tell us about Meghalaya! Despite the mixed weather, it sounds like it was a great trip. Your driver seemed really nice.

Hi there! I really loved Assam. Nagaland is interesting—I enjoyed the area around Mon. I didn’t get to see Mokokchung; it must be quite different. Meghalaya is beautiful, but February is probably better for the weather. I’d love to visit Arunachal Pradesh another time if I can get the permit. Welbis, the driver, was really nice—we got along great. Yeah, I rushed to finish it; the heat motivated me to stay in the shade!😅

Thanks Marie Jo for this account of Meghalaya (the "Abode of Clouds")! It's tough to find a period without rain—I think it's the rainiest state in India. Such a beautiful trip!!!

Hi Gisèle! The best time to visit Meghalaya seems to be January and February. Are you thinking of going there next winter?

Hi there! Just adding to my previous reply 😊 In February, you might get lucky and see the "dancing monks" in some satras. By late March, the festivals were over.

Yes, it’ll be February–March for the Seven Sisters and January to finish up West Bengal. Thanks! !

Yes, it’ll be February-March for the 7 Sisters and January to finish West Bengal. Thanks!

Try to go to the Mon festival in early April—it’s really nice. I can give you the guide’s contact info; he knew about other homestays if the one I stayed at is booked.

Oh yes, thanks!

I’m putting together a summary of all the travel bookings for places where it’s hard to find info.

Ananda Majuli House (WhatsApp): +91 99571 86356

Kohima: Pier Vantage Homestay (tel): +91 69091 45977

Mon: Guide Ngamgang (WhatsApp) +91 87328 17972 Another guide: Letwang (WhatsApp) +91 96123 70808

Mon: Homestay: Aihan Homestay (WhatsApp) +91 89744 55400

Mokokchung: Abode the Mountains +91 81318 59340

Meghalaya Tourism officer: Sachin (tel) +91 86522 25785 Driver Welbis: (tel) +91 93661 22906

Cherrapunji Homestay: (tel) +91 80143 09903

Hope this helps you, Christine, and others too😉

Thanks, yes, such a helpful tip! Gisèle