The sound of waves crashing against the coral reef set the rhythm for our night.
The chirping of birds in the garden trees sets the rhythm for our breakfast.
Yellow, red, punk—they flutter around our table, on the lookout for the tiniest crumb.
With the last bite swallowed, it’s time to think about what’s next.
Île aux Cerfs?
Oh no! There’s too much wind, and the water’s way too chilly for a beach day!
A hike in Ferney Valley?
Great idea! Perfect weather for walking, and it gets us closer to the airport to pick up our suitcase!
We pack a few supplies for a picnic and drive to the entrance of the Ferney estate.
This valley holds the last patches of primary forest on the island—areas that nearly disappeared a few years ago to make way for a highway...
Entry is paid, and the funds go toward maintaining this natural sanctuary: endemic trees and plants are replanted, while a relentless battle is waged against invasive species.
Three trails wind through the estate: a 5-kilometer walk accessible to all (75 meters of elevation gain), a more challenging 13-kilometer route (530 meters of elevation gain), and a demanding 18-kilometer hike (970 meters of elevation gain).
The lazy ones can opt for a guided 4x4 excursion, a choice we skip, preferring to take on the 13-kilometer challenge—a great warm-up for the trip ahead!
The start of the hike is shared by all options until the Aldabra tortoise enclosure.

This species isn’t native to Mauritius but to the Seychelles.
The island’s native tortoises, in fact, disappeared in the 18th century, victims of the appetites of various colonizers.
The Aldabra tortoise has exceptional longevity: supercentenarians are common, and the oldest member of this family is the venerable Jonathan, born around 1832!
The other impressive trait of this animal is its weight: up to 300 kilos for the males!
It’s best not to let one step on your foot when you get close for a photo.

A few steps later, we enter the estate’s nursery. Mauritius seems like paradise for green thumbs, a little less so for fans of lunar landscapes...

Then we tackle the steep part of the walk!

We disturb a family of wild boars and catch a fleeting glimpse of a deer herd at the top of a distant hill.


I’ll let you spot a few pairs of ears...
Nature surrounds us; there’s not a soul in sight.