Off we go on an adventure in Puglia! (page 2 of 3)

Day 3 (continued)













Now that we’ve had our fill of trulli for the next ten years, it’s time to head to the sea and the Torre Guaceto nature reserve for a bit of physical exercise. A little "hike" to sculpt our calves... A quick dip in invigorating (or freezing, depending on your level of optimism) water to get the blood flowing again... A little "sunbathing" for a full-body tan... And we head back home to Ostuni, refreshed and with our spirits as plump as a burrata! That’s what vacations are all about!

Day 4 - October 22, 2025

Okay, sure, wandering around tires your legs, burns your skin a bit, and often empties your wallet... But it recharges the main thing: your mind! So off we go for another day of loading up! Loading, but also changing! Because we’ve decided—we’re moving south, heading to the Lecce area for another dose of *dolce-vagabonding*! And our first stop is none other than Lecce, a city pompously nicknamed “the Florence of the South.” No big deal, right? Let’s just say we half-expected to run into Michelangelo cruising around on his Vespa or a David statue holding a gelato. From the Cathedral of Santa Maria dell’Assunta to the Basilica of Santa Croce, from the old Roman amphitheater to the Castello Carlo V, our walk quickly turned into a Baroque scavenger hunt. The cobblestone alleys, wrought-iron balconies, sun-drenched squares... Lecce loves reminding you it’s seen it all over the past 2,000 years. But does Lecce check all the boxes for a great time?... For Flo, who’s gushing with “It’s so beautiful, my love!” I’m guessing that’s a big “Yes!” For me, my feelings are a tad more mixed. Look, there’s no denying Lecce has charm under the hood, and I’m not arguing that. But the love-at-first-sight moment I was promised just turned into “it’s pretty, and that’s my final word, Jean-Pierre.” I think comparing it to Florence does more harm than good because honestly, all I saw was my Flo—not Florence at all... Also, the construction work in the city didn’t exactly help... And finally, having to dig into my wallet to visit churches rubbed me the wrong way... Anyway, in my original plans, I’d set aside the whole day for Lecce. But by 2 p.m., we’re already hitting the road. Just needed a sign...



















The silver lining in all this? It frees up our schedule for a bonus activity! Our place in San Foca has bikes for us, so the plan’s set: we’ll spend the late afternoon on a Puglia tour fueled by AOP burrata! A gelato for everyone on the way, a tumble at the back of the pack for Luna, some eggplant gnocchi whipped up by my chef Sasha, and southern Italy pulls its magic trick on us again. The tally’s good, my dear Patrice Laffont!

Day 5 - October 23, 2025

What’s *la dolce vita*? It’s that subtle art of savoring every moment at your own pace—even the ones that seem insignificant at first: the light caressing the facades of old Italian buildings, the faint smell of pizza wafting from a restaurant, the rhythmic lapping of a translucent sea... No stress, no timed schedule, just little moments to pluck like ripe olives. You close your eyes, take a deep breath, and dive into the day’s plan, letting the wind carry you along the coast southward until you reach the town of Otranto...

Our first little hop takes us leisurely to Roca Vecchia. If you ever follow in our footsteps, you’ll be just as enchanted as we were by the beauty of the Grotta della Poesia. At first glance, this waterhole will make you understand why it’s considered one of the ten most beautiful natural pools in the world. You’ll also learn that the site has seen its share of admirers—it’s been inhabited since the Bronze Age! And like any self-respecting magical place, there’s a legend behind its name. Since you’re not sure you’ll ever see it with your own eyes, I’ll show you in photos and explain the story behind its name: They say that long ago, a princess of celestial beauty would surrender herself to this turquoise sanctuary carved by the gods. With every stroke she swam, the sea became a mirror, weaving her foam necklaces. Like little waves gliding toward the shore, her beauty was so radiant that it drew spellbound poets, who offered their most beautiful verses in hopes the sea would whisper them to her... Oops... I think seeing my Flo in this azure setting has awakened the poet in me too...





Anyway, a few kilometers later, nature hits us with another postcard-worthy scene—towering cliffs, majestic stone arches, and turquoise water: Welcome to Torre Sant’Andrea! Some have tried to compare it to Portugal’s stunning Algarve, which I explored a good decade ago. Let’s be honest and objective: it’s smaller, the cliffs aren’t as high, but the place still has a seriously photogenic vibe! Our wandering quartet unanimously approved after our little hike along the cliffs!

Day 5 (continued)

So, what do we think of the little town of Otranto? Well, guess what—we’re still loving it! A charming historic center topped with its cathedral and medieval castle, narrow flower-lined streets that make you want to get lost, a walk along the ramparts overlooking the harbor... And now it’s my turn to play the comparison game. The color of the water in Otranto’s bay and harbor could make any Maldives beach jealous! Seriously, it’s the first time a harbor has made my swim shorts tingle with excitement. Impressive!















It’s also from Otranto’s port that our little loop hike begins—the one we’d jotted down on a napkin. It follows the rugged, wind-swept coastline southward, then loops back via an old bauxite quarry, that red rock rich in alumina and iron oxide. The coast is stunning, the walk pleasant, the vibe perfect for solitude... until you stumble into that famous quarry. Good grief, is that thing photogenic! Without the surrounding vegetation, you’d almost think you’d been teleported to Utah—no complaints here!







So, if you add a scoop of gelato, a thick *puccia*, some good Italian cheeses, and a nice bottle of Montepulciano, you’ve got our perfect definition of *la dolce vita*. If you’re tempted, you know what to do: a winning credit card number, and boom—your flight ticket to Puglia is yours! One hundred percent of winners have tried their luck...

VF was right to recommend reading this travel journal. I had started it but forgot to check "follow." Since I’d booked my trip to Italy for retirement, there’s still so much left to see. Thanks to your journal—with its pleasant, easy-to-read text and gorgeous photos—Puglia is now on my itinerary before Sicily. Thanks!

Already over?

Thanks Franck for this review of Puglia—I didn’t know about it, and you’ve really made me want to go check it out! 😊

Already over?

Hello Muriel, No, sorry for the interruption—I was in Sri Lanka. I’ll post the rest very soon... See you later!

VF was right to recommend reading this travel journal. I had started it but forgot to check "follow". I had planned to visit Italy for my retirement, but there’s still so much left to see. Thanks to your journal—with its pleasant text and gorgeous photos—Puglia is now on my list before Sicily. Thanks!

Yes, it’s a beautiful destination that deserves a closer look. Thanks for the nice comment! 😊

It's already over?

Hello Muriel, No, sorry for the interruption—I was in Sri Lanka. I’ll post the rest very soon... See you!

I thought it was over too 😢

I was in Sri Lanka

Cool! Another amazing travel journal in the works 😊

Day 6 - October 24, 2025

Either you're good on the field, or you stay on the bench and watch others score. Whoever gets it, gets it—but we’re playing our match full throttle, crisscrossing the boot. The heel of the boot, to be precise. The very tip of the heel, even more so, since we’ve arrived in Santa Maria di Leuca, the southernmost point of the peninsula. The place once thought to be the end of the known world. The end of the earth, as locals still call it. Where the Ionian Sea and the Adriatic Sea flirt under the watchful eye of the Capo lighthouse and the Basilica of Santa Maria de Finibus Terrae, where we stand now, hair in the wind, gazes lost toward the vastness of the south.









And since we’re at the very end of the world, might as well take it all in from the sea, right? So we board a tourist boat—without too many tourists—on a small vessel to cruise along the rugged Adriatic coast. The captain, tanned like an appetizer cracker, steers with the nonchalance of a true southerner. As we ride the waves, towering cliffs rise before us, carved with impressive caves bearing evocative names: Grotta del Diavolo, Grotta dei Giganti, Grotta del Drago… When our boat slips into one of them, sunlight glitters off the walls. It’s stunning. “So, girls, you like it?” The answer is solemn: “So cool!” In their slang, I think that means “Yes”!





After the view from the sea, it’s time for the view from the winding road that teeters on the edge of dizzying cliffs… And around a bend—bam! Il Ciolo, living up to its name! Honestly, I have no idea what it means, but the name fits this cove perfectly—straight out of a travel brochure. The dream spot to dip a toe… I’ll rephrase: the dream spot to trick our bodies into thinking it’s a good idea to take the plunge in water as cold as an Italian espresso forgotten in the fridge. After several “Once you’re in, it’s great!” to convince ourselves, we swim with Sasha to the Grotta Grande del Ciolo, the local Capri cave. The experts from Manhattan did their research, and they’re certain—it’s freaking gorgeous!

Day 6 (continued)





Alright, since we're warmed up from the stove, it's high time we tackled what we came to this corner of Puglia for today: the hike to the prehistoric Cipolliane cave I stumbled upon during one of my late-night web deep dives. The scenery? Worthy of the French Riviera... Rocky trail, the scent of maquis, and cicadas as our resident DJ, making us sweat like overstuffed burratas. And then, suddenly, there it is, tucked into the cliffside, as discreet as a well-kept secret. Venturing inside, it's hard not to imagine our troglodyte ancestors gazing at the same view from their terrace thousands of years ago—no Wi-Fi, no electricity bill, just a glass of wine in hand... The place exudes a quiet power, almost mystical. We're not sure if it's the golden light, the absolute silence, or simply the fact that we have it all to ourselves, but time seems suspended... and so do we. After this, you're going to ask me who wins between the French Riviera and the southern coast of Puglia, right? Listen carefully. It's like making a movie to decide who's stronger between Batman and Superman. Completely ridiculous... Oh, shoot, I'm being told in my earpiece that they *did* make that movie... And who wins in the end? I can't remember, but in today's match, Puglia just scored the golden goal. Game over! And that wraps up this day...

Gorgeous day, Franck... it almost warms my heart too 😊 Amazing photos 👍

A bit of warmth would actually be great right now. I just went from +35°C to -5°C. 😎

Naples and the Amalfi Coast are on my itinerary this year. I’m dreaming of adding Puglia to next year’s plans. Thanks for this amazing temptation.

Naples and the Amalfi Coast are on my itinerary this year. I’m dreaming of adding Puglia to next year’s plans. Thanks for this amazing temptation.

Your itinerary is all set! 😛

Day 7 - October 25, 2025

At the end of my little strategy game, I’d told my travel companions right at the start of the trip that the best of Puglia wasn’t actually in Puglia—and that I’d been carefully keeping that last ace up my sleeve to soften the bitter taste of that final sip of cappuccino at the end of our adventure. And since “a promise is a promise, and taking it back is stealing,” here we are on the last day, and *bam*—it’s the moment I’ve chosen to play my final card: Matera, a little town on the edge of Puglia, administratively in Basilicata...

Unbearable suspense… So, did we like it or *really* like it? Breaking news: Matera, carved into stone and history… Matera, a retinal orgasm without a prescription… Matera, it’s clear we loved it *so* much! I’d even say Matera just crashed into first place in our top 50, no contest! Matera, or how to go from national embarrassment to international superstar! Oh, that’s got you curious, huh… Pull up a seat on my lap and let me tell you this fantastic tale… Imagine a city so old, no one’s really sure who built it. The gods? Aliens? Or some overly imaginative stonemason from the Paleolithic? That’s Matera for you: an ancient city that’s been squatted in for over 9,000 years, making it one of the oldest continuously inhabited places *in the world*! Yeah, buddy—even older than your Italian music compilation from the ‘80s! “Ti aaamo… Ti amo ti… aaaamo…”







Its famous “Sassi,” troglodyte dwellings carved into the rock, have long served as shelter for everything that passed through: ragged families, stray goats, hermit priests, and even a couple of bearded saints who came here to meditate on the merciful world… For millennia, the city lived like this, between drafts and mineral poetry… until the 20th century showed up, and *boom*! Matera became Italy’s ugly duckling, the ultimate national humiliation. “Out with the Romans!” Living conditions were so basic that the government ordered the forced eviction of all those “ragamuffins” in the 1950s, effectively condemning Matera’s ruins to a programmed oblivion… The script was written, and like in all good Italian films, here comes the final twist: with wrinkles that suit it so well and gray hair that gives it style, Matera’s dung-covered goats made way for tourists in loafers. The illustrious Matera rises from its stones! The once-unsanitary caves become hotels. The Sassi, reeking of urine, transform into trendy restaurants. Crumbling walls serve as the foundation for hip museums… The ultimate honor in 1993: AC Milan wins the Champions League! And Matera, in the same stroke, enters the sacred UNESCO World Heritage list. But wait, that’s not all! In the glorious year of 2025, it’s a whole squadron of four “Frenchies” who land in its alleys to sing its praises in this travel journal! And to think that just three months ago, *I* didn’t even know this crown jewel existed! I’m literally blown away! To you, lovers of the now-pale Saint-Cirq-Lapopie, know that you might quickly cheat on it after locking eyes with the enchantress Matera…

Day 7 (continued)









We let ourselves drift, no plan, no specific goal, no schedule—just following the deserted alleys and little squares where time seems to have dozed off. Exploring Matera on foot is like a box of chocolates. You never know what you’re gonna get. Here, a narrow staircase leading up to a hidden terrace with a panoramic view of the city; there, a winding alley opening onto a quaint little cave church. And at every turn, every passage we take, Matera reveals itself from a new angle—always more beautiful, always more photogenic, always bigger and more labyrinthine. The city seems to unveil itself only to those who take the time to wander, to get lost, and to smile at the cats and flowers. One thought keeps popping up in our daydreams: "We could totally see ourselves spending our golden years here."

And to think that even I didn’t know this crown jewel existed just three months ago!

Don’t you like peplum movies or James Bond? 😉

Anyway, its reputation doesn’t seem undeserved, and on top of that, it doesn’t look crowded at all !

Day 7 (continued)

As grand and beautiful as it is—sun-dried cherry tomato on pizza and all—the place is set in an idyllic environment perfect for hiking. Come on, you didn’t think we’d just wander around Matera with our noses in the air, sipping an Aperol Spritz and calling it a day, did you? Did you? No... That’d be so not us! And it’d also mean you don’t know the trail that starts in Matera and winds down into the Gravina, that wild canyon that makes you sweat before rewarding you with the cherry on top of the tiramisu: the Murgia Timone belvedere, offering a widescreen view of Matera. Hold onto your cappuccino, because you’re facing what claims to be the most beautiful viewpoint in all of southern Italy—what else?... And we can only agree with that bold statement: once at the top, Matera sprawls before us, sublime and silent, etched by centuries, frozen in time, suspended between sky and earth... Even the chattiest among us fall silent—now that’s saying something!...















Anyway, I could go on for hours with gushing superlatives, but I think you get it: Matera was a unanimous love-at-first-sight moment! So much so that we find ourselves at the airport at nightfall without quite realizing it, still with butterflies in our eyes, not fully grasping that this little adventure has come to an end. Another one... More great moments, good food, laughter, stunning cities, sunshine, burrata, crisp translucent water, gelato, hikes... all making up this chapter we close with a sigh, automatically uploading these memories into our mental photo albums. A recap, maybe?... Puglia? The perfect destination for a week at a leisurely pace... October? The ideal season to discover Puglia and still ride the wave of summer’s dolce vita... One chapter closes, and already, its little sister is on the horizon... Something to look forward to...