Review of an Aegean Sea cruise on Ponant's Bougainville from November 1-8, 2025 (page 2 of 4)

Hi Catherine,

Thank you for these wonderful discoveries, both scenic and culinary. Have a great day! Guylène

Hi Isa, I’ll admit the boarding time is a bit late, but you get used to it. It’s also a rest day for some of the crew who are on duty every other day. These aren’t big ships... You really weren’t lucky—we’ve never had that issue with the desserts.

Thanks Francis for being here and reading me.

Hi Claudine, I think Explora and Ponant, which require similar budgets, offer two different experiences. I believe Explora is closer to high-end luxury hotels, while Ponant focuses on shore excursions and onboard lectures, all while maintaining a relaxed atmosphere. I still need to try Explora to confirm. 😉

Thanks Guylène for your dedication. 🙂

Hi Claudine, I think Explora and Ponant, which require similar budgets, offer two different experiences. I believe Explora is closer to high-end luxury hotels, while Ponant focuses on shore excursions and onboard lectures, all while maintaining a relaxed atmosphere. I still need to try Explora to confirm. 😉

I think you nailed it!

Volos, Meteora, Monday, November 3rd

To start the long day ahead on a good note, I ordered eggs Benedict with salmon for breakfast—I imagined it would be really good, Ponant-style... And here’s what arrived: a double portion, two eggs, way too much for me, but cooked to perfection and absolutely delicious.

We left at 8:30 AM for the excursion to Meteora. This excursion, like all the others, was included in the cruise price. For each stop, we had to choose between several excursions. Worth noting: only yesterday’s hiking tour was extra, but it was largely covered by the onboard credit we received thanks to our loyalty status.

Meteora is near the town of Kalambaka, in the far north of Greece.

A coffee break was scheduled before starting the Meteora visit. The restaurant where we stopped is perfectly located. At the foot of the rock formations, it offers an impressive view of these extraordinary geological formations on one side, and on the other, the view stretches over the town of Kalambaka.





Meteora is a spectacular collection of Orthodox monasteries perched atop rock pillars that can reach up to 400 meters in height.

Meteora’s origins date back nearly 60 million years. The region was once at the bottom of a sea where sediments—pebbles, sand, and clay—accumulated, forming a vast rocky conglomerate. When the Pindus mountain range uplifted and the rock fractured, these deposits emerged from the water. Over millennia, the combined action of wind, water, and temperature variations gradually eroded the surrounding alluvium, leaving behind these impressive rock formations: towering columns, vertical pillars, and steep domes that define Meteora’s landscape today.





The first hermits are believed to have arrived in the Meteora region in the late 9th century. They lived in caves and natural crevices in the rocks. Organized monastic life developed later, particularly in the 14th century.





to be continued...

Volos, Meteora, Monday, November 3 (continued)

At the monastic site’s peak in the 15th century, there were up to 24 monasteries perched in the skies. These spiritual citadels were practically inaccessible: you climbed up using long, rather precarious ladders or in impressive baskets suspended by pulleys with a manual winch system. It wasn’t until the 1920s that easier access was created, with staircases carved into the rock.

We were warned that to access Meteora, women must wear a long skirt. Those in pants are required to put a long skirt over their pants or wrap themselves in a scarf to avoid being considered "improper," or risk being denied entry. Once again, it’s a disguise imposed on women by a handful of obscurantist religious figures. 😇

The first Orthodox monastery we visit is Roussano (or Roussanou) Monastery. It’s one of the six still-active monasteries in Meteora. Built in the 16th century, it’s dedicated to Saint Barbara. Its interior houses beautiful post-Byzantine frescoes.





Our second visit is to Saint Stephen’s (Agios Stefanos) Monastery. Founded between the 14th and 16th centuries, it’s now home to a community of nuns.





Our very knowledgeable guide gives us lots of spiritual explanations about the stunning frescoes, which are forbidden to photograph. Her presentation is certainly thorough and interesting, but a bit long... And we arrive at the museum doors just as it closes.



Before rejoining the bus, one last glimpse of the dominant view.



The meal is served at the restaurant that hosted us for the short break before the visits. The lunch of Greek specialties offered is very generous and delicious.

We cross the Thessaly plain again, lulled by a certain drowsiness, to rejoin the ship just before nightfall. When we leave the port of Volos, night has fallen.



From this second evening onward, we’re lucky to get to know two very friendly couples, with whom we’ll spend wonderful evenings in a joyful atmosphere.

Thessaloniki, Tuesday, November 4

Before the great fire of 1917, Thessaloniki was one of the most multicultural cities in the eastern Mediterranean.

Jews, Orthodox Greeks, Muslims, Catholics, and many other minority communities lived together in harmony. The city functioned like a mosaic: neighborhoods, schools, newspapers, and places of worship coexisted in a unified whole.

On August 18, 1917, a small kitchen fire in an Armenian neighborhood spread rapidly. At the time, the city was very dense, with most houses built of wood, and a strong wind was blowing in from the sea.

The fire raged for 32 hours without being slowed, destroying nearly two-thirds of the city center. Around 70,000 people were left homeless. More than 9,500 buildings disappeared: homes, shops, synagogues, schools, newspapers… The city lost much of its Ottoman and Jewish historic center.

The event marked the end of Thessaloniki as a major multicultural metropolis of the Ottoman Empire. Greek authorities decided on a modern reconstruction, led by a French urban planning committee, which gave the city center its current layout. This fire radically transformed Thessaloniki’s appearance, demographics, and culture.

Our city tour starts on a shared bus with English speakers… But the two-language setup is very well organized. All French speakers board the front of the bus with a French-speaking guide, while English speakers sit at the back with their assigned guide. That way, no double repetitions—it’s much better for everyone.

Our first stop is at the base of the White Tower on the waterfront. It’s one of the city’s symbols. Built during the Ottoman era around 1430, likely on the remains of an older Byzantine fortification. It was a defensive tower forming part of the city’s walls and later served as a prison.

The origin of the name "White Tower" comes from its history. In the 19th century, when the tower was still an Ottoman prison, it had a reputation for being so dark and terrifying that it was called the "Red Tower" or the "Bloody Tower," due to the tortures and executions carried out there.

Legend has it that a prisoner was granted his freedom in exchange for a symbolic act: repainting the entire tower white to erase its macabre past. After the whitewashing, locals began calling it the "White Tower."

Today, it’s a museum dedicated to Thessaloniki’s history, with a panoramic view of the waterfront from the terrace. But today, it’s closed.

At the far end of this large square, by the sea, stands the Statue of Alexander the Great.

A little further on is the Umbrellas of Thessaloniki, a famous sculpture first exhibited at the Venice Biennale in 1995. It became a symbol of the city when it was installed on the waterfront in 1997. Not everyone has to like it…

The bus drops us off at the Arch of Galerius, built by the Roman emperor of the same name in the 4th century AD to honor his victory over the Persians. The reliefs on its sides depict the military exploits of Roman troops against the Persians.



Just a few steps away, above this triumphal arch, stands the Rotunda, which has successively served as a place of worship for three religions. First dedicated to ceremonies honoring the twelve gods of Olympus, it was later converted into a Christian building. During the long Ottoman period, it became a mosque, whose minaret still stands today. After the city’s liberation, the monument regained its Christian purpose before being turned into a museum.



All along the shopping street we walk down, numerous ruins uncovered by excavations bear witness to the city’s rich historical past.





to be continued…

Thessaloniki, Tuesday, November 4th (continued)

We arrive at the Church of Saint Sophia in Thessaloniki on foot. It’s one of the most important Byzantine churches in Greece. Built in the 8th century (around 780) on the site of an older church likely dating back to the 5th century, it belongs to the architectural style of domed churches inspired by the Hagia Sophia in Constantinople.



Over the centuries, the building’s function changed: originally a Christian basilica, it became a mosque under the Ottoman Empire before being returned to Orthodox worship in the early 20th century. Today, it’s a UNESCO World Heritage Site, along with other early Christian and Byzantine monuments in Thessaloniki. It’s an iconic place where history, spirituality, and Byzantine art blend together.



Once again, our very knowledgeable and passionate guide spends a long time discussing the spirituality of the religious frescoes. And time flies… The time we were supposed to spend exploring a market has passed. We head straight through the city’s beautiful neighborhoods, leaving the market behind.





Aperitivo time has arrived, and we need to meet up at the restaurant where we’re waiting for an ouzo tasting accompanied by a multitude of meze. So many, so generous, and delicious! I only have a photo of the first ones—after that, caught up in the atmosphere, I forgot…



Back on the ship, we only have a tiny bit of room left for dessert.

to be continued…

Thessaloniki, Tuesday, November 4th (end)

No time for a nap, we're off again to explore the neighborhoods we didn’t get to see this morning.





The Modiano Market is currently closed for renovations, but the Kapani Market, located right next door, remains open. The Kapani Market is one of the city’s central markets. It developed shortly after the Ottoman conquest in 1430 to meet the need for basic supplies. Having survived the great fire of 1917, it’s one of the few historic markets to have escaped the flames. It has retained its layout and the atmosphere of an Ottoman bazaar, with its narrow alleys and shops lined up like in the old bazaars. In the early afternoon, it’s very quiet.



Agios Dimitrios of Thessaloniki is the largest basilica in Greece and one of the city’s most iconic monuments. Dedicated to Saint Dimitrios, the city’s patron saint, it houses the crypt where he was allegedly imprisoned and martyred in the 4th century. Imposing and majestic, it was rebuilt after the 1917 fire. (Maybe St. Dimitrios was on vacation that day?)



It was Victoria Hislop’s novel *The Thread* that had long made me want to visit Thessaloniki.

A Greek evening is offered at aperitif time.



And we end the day with a show on the same theme after dinner.

Thanks, Catherine, for this review—it’s always such a pleasure to read—and your photos of Thessaloniki are stunning.

I took a Ponant cruise from Malta to Naples in the second half of November.

For my husband and me, it was our first time.

Personally, the small cabin size, the ship’s dimensions, and a few other hiccups dampened the enjoyment of the cruise. That said, there were plenty of positives too...

I’ll be starting a review on VC soon for those who are familiar...

Of course, I’ll keep following you! 😎

Hi Catherine,

Not everything can always be perfect in the wonderful world of cruising, and we all experience that at some point. The crew, the entertainment teams, or even the dining staff can be more or less efficient—the human factor plays a big role.

I have to admit that the size of the cabin doesn’t bother us, maybe because we spend very little time there.

For our part, we were lucky to be overall very satisfied with our cruise, even if a few details—which I’ll mention in the conclusion—didn’t quite meet our expectations.

You could post your review here; the photos are much better displayed. 😉

Hi Catherine,

Your beautiful photos of Thessaloniki remind me of a long cruise (24 days) I took with HAL a few years ago!

From what I can see, not much has changed.

We took a little train to tour the city and see the various monuments. Below the city center, there was a small beach that was really handy for cooling off before heading back to the ship—it was August, and it was *super* hot.

Looking forward to the rest!

Alfred

Hi Alfred,

We saw a beautiful, long beach below the White Tower, but it was quite chilly to want to linger there. 😉 One advantage of HAL is having lovely off-the-beaten-path itineraries, but I wonder what the onboard service quality has become. The last time I traveled with them was early 2019, and the standard had really dropped.

Hi Catherine,

It’s true, HAL does offer some unusual itineraries and longer cruises.

There was a time when this company provided great onboard services, and the quality was up to par. But for a while now (even before Covid), the quality has really dropped—though the prices haven’t. It’s a shame because I used to enjoy traveling with them.

Kavala, Wednesday, November 5

This morning, the navigation around the Mount Athos peninsula was supposed to let us admire the Orthodox monasteries perched on Mount Athos and the landscapes of this legendary peninsula. But the weather didn’t cooperate. The fog and low clouds were so heavy that it felt like we were in the Chilean fjords.



In the morning, we were invited to watch a documentary film in the Blue Eye lounge.

Blue Eye is an underwater lounge located below the waterline, featuring two large portholes offering a plunging view of the marine world. Its decor, inspired by both whale baleen and the eye of a whale, sparks the imagination, blending the universe of the Nautilus with that of spaceships.

It was in this underwater atmosphere that a stunning documentary titled "700 Sharks" was screened. Packed with breathtaking images, it immerses us in the behavior and hunting techniques of sharks in the Fakarava Pass. Every year, these predators wait for the arrival of groupers, which gather there to reproduce, turning it into a real feast.



Our arrival in the port of Kavala was once again under a gloomy sky, but fortunately, it wasn’t raining.



Kavala once belonged to the Ottoman Empire and was a city of great importance. It had Muslim buildings, a Turkish population, and Ottoman institutions. At the beginning of the 20th century, Greece and Turkey carried out population exchanges. These painful events now fuel "roots tourism": Turks, descendants of displaced people, come to Kavala to relive or discover this history.

We booked a walking tour to visit the city of Kavala. The guide wasn’t very engaging—she showed us her kindergarten, the location of her parents’ apartment... But honestly, the interest was pretty limited.



This beautiful building is now Kavala’s town hall; it used to be the home of a Hungarian tobacco merchant.



Next came the visit to the Tobacco Museum to learn all about tobacco cultivation and production in Eastern Macedonia and Thrace. Housed in a former tobacco leaf processing factory, it might be interesting for smokers... For others, the smell isn’t very pleasant, the visit is boring and long. The only upside is that there are restrooms... But the place is so run-down and in such poor condition that it’s better to skip it. A bit of greenery to clear our lungs.

to be continued...

Kavala, Wednesday, November 5 (continued)

Walking along the port, we reach the old town.





A few picturesque houses stand in this street where the Imaret of Kavala is built, though we only see its outer walls. It was founded in the early 19th century as an Ottoman complex with educational, social, and religious purposes. After falling into disuse, it was transformed into a luxury hotel in 2004, hinting at its beauty inside.





At the top of the hill, there’s a fortress, an Ottoman cemetery, and a church—but all these sites are closed.



The visit ends here, led by a monotonous guide who didn’t tell us anything interesting about this rather charm-free city.



We extend the visit with other Bougainville passengers, wandering through the town’s narrow streets until we reach the aqueduct—the guide didn’t bother showing it to us, even though it was on the itinerary.



We finish with another stroll along the port. Night falls quickly, especially when the sun doesn’t show itself. The stop would’ve been much nicer in the sunshine.



That evening’s activity is a caviar tasting.



Too bad the canapés are topped with salmon—it adds volume but masks the delicacy of the sturgeon eggs.

Hi Catherine,

Thanks for these beautiful photos and their very informative captions. These are stops we’re not familiar with. Have a great weekend! Guylène

Hi Catherine, It sounds like the sun often let you down, but hey, as long as it’s not raining, that’s already not bad! How do you organize your visits, knowing that with Ponant, you never know the duration or time of the stops? Because of that, do you often take excursions or do you make half-day or full-day plans?