A Bold Combo: Southern Peru, Bolivia, and Northern Chile (page 2 of 7)

J3 - 14/07: Machu Picchu

July 14th is Bastille Day, and this special day also means a visual fireworks display for us—the fulfillment of a childhood dream with a visit to Machu Picchu!!

We wake up at 3:55 AM—ouch... 🤪

At 4:30 AM, we return the keys to the manager, who slept on the couch, probably to make sure we left at dawn and didn’t get him in trouble 😄!

Good news: Laetitia is feeling better. After eating bananas for breakfast—bought last minute after our hotel mishap—we start the hike to Machu Picchu at 4:20 AM, beginning with 2 km of gentle incline.

Our goal is to reach the site just before 6 AM, allowing for about 1h30-1h40 of walking. We end up waiting a good fifteen minutes until 5 AM at the access bridge marking the start of the trek. Not great, because now we’ll have to tackle the stair climb with a 460 m elevation gain in just one hour...

Luckily, the cool—even cold—temperature helps us power through the ascent, and Laetitia, despite having almost no energy stored up in 36 hours, holds strong!

Our first entry is scheduled for 6 AM. The guide had strongly recommended this time slot to avoid the crowds and have the chance to witness the sunrise from the best viewpoint in Machu Picchu 😇!!

Visiting conditions at Machu Picchu have significantly deteriorated in recent years. Officially, it’s to prevent overtourism, but we can seriously doubt that—it seems to have become a money-making scheme for the government, lining their pockets.

As a result, instead of a single circuit, you now have to choose between three main circuits and multiple variations. To see the entire city, you need to take two circuits. And no Carrefour promo with the second one at half price...

After studying the schedules and variations of all the circuits, I concluded that we absolutely had to start the day at 6 AM with the first panoramic circuit to have enough time to do two circuits and make the most of this once-in-a-lifetime day that inspired our trip!

For our first circuit, the 2A, we’re lucky to have a French-speaking guide, Manuel Jesus. Passionate and fascinating, his French is perfect, and he speaks at the rapid pace typical of any self-respecting Spaniard. He’s a wealth of knowledge—pure delight!

Plus, he recommends the best viewpoints, slightly off the beaten path from where most people gather. Really great!

At 7 AM, we find ourselves on a large terrace that lets us enjoy the sunrise without being packed together.



At 7:15 AM, here comes the sunrise, with perfect weather conditions 😇😇😇



After a nice family photo session, we continue our guided tour and descend with Manu into the nobles’ quarter, with Wayna Picchu always in the background.

Manu explains that this pile of rocks was used as a quarry for building the city. He points out small holes in the massive rock blocks that follow a fracture line, suggesting that the freeze-thaw method was used to split them.



All the building walls are inclined inward to withstand earthquakes.

The tour continues to the esplanade where all ceremonies and festivities took place, separating the nobles’ quarter from the people’s and artisans’ quarter.

The return loop lets us visit the inside of several houses and understand the central role of the sun in the design and architecture of the temples, especially the Temple of the Sun.

Before heading back to the entrance, we cross through the agricultural terraces sector again.

We pass close to the Temple of the Sun, built on natural rock and recognizable from afar by its rounded shapes. Later, with the second circuit, we’ll get even closer.



The guided tour ends at 9 AM, after 3 hours of great company with Manu.

It’s only 9 AM, but it feels like it’s already afternoon!

Back to the entrance for a quick break and a long 30-minute wait in the line for our new circuit.

For the second circuit, I chose option #3, which lets us visit the Temple of the Sun and then "climb" to the top of Huchuy Picchu. "Climb" is a bit of an exaggeration, since the ascent is easy—just 100 m of elevation gain at most. It’s nothing like its neighbor Wayna Picchu, which is super steep with around 500 m of elevation gain.

I’d hesitated for a long time between the two circuits, but I’m glad I went with the easier option—Wayna Picchu would’ve been impossible for Laetitia.

Circuit 3 starts in the lower sector we just left,

and we quickly reach the Temple of the Sun. Inside, the rock was used as an altar for solar worship rituals.



We pass through the central square again and cross the residential quarters.

The two circuits complement each other because the viewpoints are different from earlier.

Next, we reach the checkpoint for another ticket scan.

The climb up Huchuy Picchu is relatively quick, with only one or two narrow sections.

The view from Huchuy Picchu is lower, so it’s less overwhelming, and it’s perfect for us! We snack on some seeds—very little is allowed—and most importantly, we rest!

In the early afternoon, we finish our tour by visiting the Temple of the Condor, where you can make out the beak and ruff of a condor—or at least imagine it...

After spending over 6 hours in the citadel of Machu Picchu, we’re satisfied and ready to tackle the steep descent to Aguas Calientes, still on foot. It took 1h05 downhill, compared to 1h25 uphill—we’re all exhausted... but we made it!! On the way down, we pass quite a few people just starting their ascent, and some look completely wiped out. No surprise there—the sun is beating down *hard*!

Laetitia gets a round of applause for powering through.

Back in Aguas Calientes, we head to a restaurant for a good meal and several cocktails to sip, wrapping up this unforgettable day in style!

In the late afternoon, we make our way to the train station, which is packed with tourists, then return to Ollantaytambo. We pick up our big backpack from the luggage storage and crash at our hotel—no dinner, just sleep after barely making it back!

A visit under such clear skies—you were really lucky! 😏

Hi Guillaume, You had an amazing trip and told it so beautifully. Machu Picchu under bright sunshine brings back distant memories for me. Thanks for letting me relive it all, complete with gorgeous photos

Hey Daniel, Thanks for the encouragement. Glad you can dive back into your youth travels! See you tomorrow 😉

Day 4 - 15/07: Pisac - Tipon - Andahuaylillas - Huaro

This morning, before leaving Ollantaytambo, we head to the fortress right at opening time, at 7 a.m., to enjoy the sunrise all to ourselves.

It’s seriously chilly before the sun warms us up. Some mornings, it even freezes. No surprise—we’re in the middle of winter and at high altitude!

We watch for the first rays of sunlight... Once at the top of the stairs, the sun finally peeks out!

Turning around, we get a beautiful view of the rocky outcrop that houses the Pinkuylluna ruins and overlooks the village of Ollantaytambo.



However, we can’t take the trail along the mountainside—it’s closed due to a risk of landslides.

So we access a second set of terraces and a temple from below, where we run into a few alpacas that help maintain the site.

They’re really not skittish; we can get within 10 meters of them 😎!

By the time we leave the site, all the ruins are bathed in sunlight.

As for us, we head back to our guesthouse for breakfast.



Then, Gonzalo, our driver for the next two days—well-known on specialized Facebook groups—picks us up. He doesn’t speak English, not even a few words, so translators take over.

And off we go for a beautiful day on the road, with several Inca sites, markets, and remarkable churches on the agenda.

Our first stop is Pisac, famous for its market and especially its archaeological complex and ruins, among the most stunning in the Sacred Valley.

Most people settle for visiting the upper part of the complex and the agricultural terraces, but there’s also the option to walk down to the village via a trail that winds through various ruins.

Of course, we choose that option, getting dropped off by Gonzalo at the top of the mountain!

The upper part of the complex houses the Kallaqasa, which served as a defensive area.

And agricultural terraces built in stone, in excellent condition.

What a view 😇!!

On the upper platform, we come across several alpacas, used to people. Some of them have such a funny look!!

After visiting the upper part and the terraces, we start the descent, and it’s love at first sight for us ! The scenery is stunning, and we have to navigate narrow cliffside paths and even a mini-tunnel (barely wider than Crack-in-the-wall).

Among the beautiful variety of ruins, a special mention goes to the Temple of the Sun.

In this temple, there’s the Intihuatana, a finely polished stone structure that functions as a solar clock, allowing the prediction of seasons, planting, and harvest times. The upper part of this stone was used for animal sacrifices to the Sun God.



A little further on, we take a small detour to check out a dispensary perched on a cliffside! Surprising and unique 🙂!

We’re getting hungry, so we shift into high gear to cover the last kilometers of the descent.

We arrive in Pisac, passing through its artisan market, which stands out from afar thanks to its brightly colored decorations.

There are still beautiful traditional houses around the village’s central square.



Once in Pisac, we grab a bite at the market for next to nothing, and just as we’re about to leave, Gonzalo tells us that a procession in honor of the Virgin of Carmen has just started 500 meters away!

We don’t need to be asked twice—we head over and witness a spectacle with hundreds of participants. Each group has its own costumes, dances, and music. Most of the participants are fully committed to their choreography despite the heat.

The highlight is the passing of the Virgin, which must weigh a ton—you can see how much the carriers struggle... Now that’s authentic 😎 😇!

We hit the road again, heading toward San Pedro, a town near Palcoyo, which is on the agenda for the next day.

Along the way, we make a few stops, first at the archaeological site of Tipon, which has remarkable Incan agricultural terraces.



There’s also a temple and an entire network of incredibly clever irrigation canals!

Gonzalo then takes us to the shores of a lake he likes and to the ruins of Rumiqullqa. Since all these spots are off the beaten path, we have them all to ourselves.

The last two stops are dedicated to visiting two neighboring churches, one in Andahuaylillas and the other in Huaro.

The church in Andahuaylillas, a masterpiece of colonial heritage, is nicknamed the Sistine Chapel of the Andes due to its exceptional decoration. I sneak a couple of photos with my smartphone. I’ve never really understood why photos—even without flash—are banned in some places of worship.

Just a few kilometers away, the temple in Huaro is another masterpiece, this time in Renaissance style. Photos are allowed here this time.



Once night falls, on the road south, we pass by some impressive fires blazing on a mountainside—hopefully under control. Quite a sight...

Then we have dinner in Combapata, each of us devouring a quarter chicken with fries and all-you-can-eat veggies.

This day was packed with such a variety of sites and landscapes, plus some great surprises! Perfect for sleeping like babies at the Hotel Inca in San Pedro, right next to Palcoyo, in preparation for another epic day 😊 !

"But when it's the dream of a lifetime, the price becomes secondary..." 100% agree!

"Life is short—let's travel first class if we can" Phillippe Noiret

J5 - 07/16: Palcoyo - Checacupe - Vinicunca

We’ve got a pretty active day ahead, combining Palcoyo and Vinicunca—two mountains perched at 5,000 meters, with a mandatory stop in the plains around 3,400 meters.

Most tourists, who usually take a tour from Cusco, only have time to visit one of the two sites. That’s why we decided to stay as close as possible to Palcoyo.

Vinicunca, or Rainbow Mountain, hardly anyone knows its name, but almost everyone has seen those super-contrasted photos on social media. It’s a mountain with 7 colors due to its mineral composition.

What makes Rainbow Mountain special—besides its altitude—is the 5 km hike with 500 meters of elevation gain. Let’s just say it’s no walk in the park with that much climb and the lack of oxygen.

Even though an access road was only built about ten years ago, it’s already suffering from over-tourism, but only for a few hours a day since all the tours from Cusco leave at the same time.

To avoid the crowds, we decide to arrive a bit later than all the Cusco tours and start our day with Palcoyo, a neighboring mountain with the same mineral characteristics but only requiring a 1.5 km approach hike with 150 meters of elevation gain (starting at nearly 4,800 meters).

Gonzalo, who stayed overnight in San Pedro, picks us up around 6 AM.

On the way to Palcoyo, we run into some adorable alpacas, including a herd of over 100. Really amazing!





We start the hike at nearly 4,800 meters around 8 AM, with the sun still low. The lack of oxygen is noticeable, but we’re all managing.

Since the site has only been open to the public for a year or two, there are very few people. Right from the start, we get a view of a mountain that looks like Rainbow Mountain.

A few alpacas conveniently come to graze nearby, making for postcard-worthy photos!





We meet more alpacas, including a unique specimen—probably of Jamaican origin... I learned from Carmen’s travel journal that it’s a suri, a rare type of alpaca.



We then leave a few soles with some Peruvians for a souvenir photo with llamas, which aren’t native like alpacas!

Along the trail, we’re blown away by these mountains alternating between green and brick red. We’re all enchanted—the landscapes are incredible!!

We keep moving slowly to account for the lack of oxygen!

It’s tough to pick the best shots because with such a panorama, every photo turns out great 😇!

We reach a second viewpoint with rainbow colors.



We then climb to the top of the mountain among sculpted rocks, with the snowy Ausangate in the background! Ausangate offers trekking possibilities, though probably not in the middle of winter.

Around 4,930 meters, Tim reaches his limit with the altitude and starts feeling tingling in his forearms. He takes his time and won’t go all the way to the summit at 4,975 meters to avoid unnecessary risks.

And here we are at the summit, 4,975 meters up! A great reward with more sculpted rocks and an exceptional panoramic view 🙂!

Then, we head back down to the car, still surrounded by alpacas everywhere.

In the end, this site was a huge surprise—I wasn’t expecting much 😊 😇!!

On the way to Checacupe, still those mountains with their two-tone green and brick colors!



Coming back down to the plain, we lose a good half-hour because of roadworks blocking one of the two lanes. We stop in Checacupe for lunch and stumble upon another procession around the central square.







With time tight for lunch, we grab a quick bite at the market square, hoping not to get traveler’s diarrhea...

While we eat, others get hit on.

Another beautiful surprise—this local festival with authentic costumes and processions. It’s in moments like these that we realize there’s no point in desperately searching for "authenticity" in touristy spots like Lake Titicaca. Instead, "authenticity" finds us when we least expect it, without even trying...

We leave Checacupe at 1:30 PM, heading toward Vinicunca, also known as Rainbow Mountain.

On the track to Vinicunca, we tell Gonzalo we’re considering renting two horses: one for Laetitia and the second to share between Rachel and Tim. Rachel is quickly hyperventilating on the climbs, and Tim felt really tired this morning, likely due to altitude sickness.

Hearing this, Gonzalo tells us he can offer an option to drive us up to nearly 5000 m, with only a 30-minute walk to the site! Super surprising, since I’ve never heard of this... 😮

Even though I would’ve personally loved the 5 km uphill challenge, we obviously accept Gonzalo’s tempting offer. 😛

While tracking our route on my phone, I notice he takes a detour at Valle Roja to take the track up the Red Valley. It’s exactly the return path I wanted to take down from Vinicunca, and I didn’t know it could be used in the opposite direction!!

Gonzalo explains that only cars—not buses—are allowed to use it, which is why the info stays under the radar. We enjoy this stunning valley, stopping at every remarkable viewpoint—basically every five minutes!!



Two-thirds up the track, which is then closed to the public unless you rent a quad ($20 pp), Gonzalo gets us permission to go up in the 4x4... What a great tip!

We gain even more altitude, still in an SUV instead of walking!

So, Gonzalo parks almost at the top of the Red Valley with a panoramic view without even walking 10 meters...

Gonzalo has his own private parking spot, slightly off the main track!!

It then only takes us three-quarters of an hour to reach Vinicunca at a relaxed pace.

100 meters from the finish, Timeo prefers to stop because of the altitude effects he’s seriously feeling at 4950 m, just like this morning (tingling in his forearms). He heads back down a bit and waits for us on a bench while staying hydrated, while we reach the summit with him in sight.

All the stalls are already closed, tourists are scarce, and everyone else is leaving the site. Yeah, on foot, it’s a long trek back to the main road, and they’ll probably need a headlamp to finish the return trip.

As for us, we have Rainbow Mountain all to ourselves!!

No surprises color-wise—they’re the same as in Palcoyo! The panoramic views on either side are absolutely stunning, almost as much as the famous seven-color mountain 😇!!

A few more solo photos,

and we head back down to the Valle Rojo viewpoint.

The spot is a bit less nice at 4:30 PM, since it's already mostly in the shade, except for the contrast in photos. That’s when the big half-hour lost in construction really starts to affect Gonzalo’s schedule.



We also loved Vinicunca, and the Rainbow Mountain is more impressive than Palcoyo! Laetitia was a little disappointed, though, because she was expecting brighter, more vibrant colors.

If you have to choose between the two, it’s tough! So why not do both and make up your own mind? And to visit both sites in one day without running a marathon, the only solution is Gonzalo and his insider tip. I haven’t mentioned it in the specialized FB groups to avoid a surge in visitors and prevent locals from eventually regulating this access too.

As the hour grows late and the sun sets, we return to Cusco, where we say goodbye to Gonzalo. He doesn’t miss the chance to remind us of all the money we saved thanks to his deals. We would’ve given him a generous tip anyway...

To cap off this unforgettable day—which will definitely make our trip’s Top 3—we end the evening at an excellent restaurant, La Caverne del Oriente, which makes us want to come back tomorrow.

you have to do a 5 km hike with 500 m of elevation gain. Let’s just say it’s not a walk in the park with that much climb and the lack of oxygen.

When you’re young and a little sporty, it shouldn’t be too much of a challenge...

Wake-up at 3:55 AM—ouch...

That part, though—I could never do it with my kids! I admire the family teamwork and cohesion during these trials!

Hello Guillaume,

I’ll be following your travel journal with pleasure. I see you went to Palcoyo and Vinicunca Mountain on the same day. Quite the schedule, especially if you hiked down the Red Valley on foot. I must admit, the older I get, the more I prefer taking my time, soaking in the landscapes, and really absorbing the places. Ah, age... 😏

We see the word "Cancelled" appear on the display boards next to our flight number! Thinking it must be a display glitch, we rush to another screen, but the system’s stubborn—the same awful word pops up 🤪 !

It’s every traveler’s nightmare.

At first, we were really bummed about losing a day and getting hit with extra fees to reschedule the domestic flight, but in the end, after learning from an Iberia customer service rep that we’d get the max compensation of 600 € per traveler, we ended up grinning... because 3000 € in refunds just to lose the first day in Cusco? We’d sign up for that 10 times over!

We received 600 euros per person for a cancellation between Frankfurt and Windhoek. In the end, they put us on another flight the same day. We arrived in the early afternoon instead of 5:30 AM. Yeah, I had to fight to get the 600 € per person, but with four of us (the kids were still traveling with us), it was totally worth it. 🙂 For you, it let you recoup the extra you’d shelled out for your Machu Picchu tickets, since you hadn’t bought them on the official site.[;]

If it was with Lufthansa, you were lucky... I didn’t manage it even by following the instructions on this forum to the letter. Since we were retirees and hadn’t lost anything financially—just 30 hours of our itinerary—we didn’t take it to court...

Okay, I just saw that you already posted about your Palcoyo - Vinicunca day. 🙂

So, Gonzalo parks almost at the top of the Red Valley with a panoramic view without even having walked 10 meters...

It’s really a shame not to explore this landscape on foot.

I didn’t mention it in the specialized FB groups to avoid a surge in visitors and prevent locals from regulating this access too.

Thanks, but I think it’s going to get out, and the site will become more and more disfigured. It’s such a shame—some people only go there to take a few selfies for social media. Anyway, you get it, I’m really against this exploitation of the site. Already, the poor horses that have to carry one tourist after another make me sad.

A few months before our trip, there were deaths in the valley because the communities of Pitumarca and Cusipata clashed. Each community wants to profit from Vinicunca, and the fact that a road was built, allowing people to now reach the top by 4x4 or quad, doesn’t help the other community. Plus, there’s the noise and pollution it generates.

Since the site has only been open to the public for a year or two, there aren’t many people. Right from the start, you get a view of a mountain that resembles Rainbow Mountain.

No, Palcoyo has been open much longer. We’d already planned to visit in 2020, and it wasn’t hard to find information back then.

We found the colors of Palcoyo Mountain more pastel than at Vinicunca. But the slightly cloudy sky at Palcoyo probably played a part. The time of day also makes a big difference, as you can see in your Red Valley photos.

We then stop in Checacupe for lunch and stumble upon another procession around the central square.

These processions are really nice, and the photos turn out great.

About the Temple of the Condor at Machu Picchu—actually, you can see the condor’s head and beak on the stone on the ground. It’s the big rock that isn’t fully visible in your photo.

Anyway, you were really lucky at Machu Picchu. It’s not every day the sky is that clear.

Ausangate offers trekking possibilities, but probably not in the middle of winter.

Oh yes, it’s actually peak season for trekking around Ausangate.

If it was with Lufthansa, you were lucky... I never managed it, even by following the instructions on this forum to the letter... Since we were retirees and didn’t lose anything financially except 30 hours of our itinerary, we didn’t take it to court...

Yes, it was with Lufthansa. I had to fight to get the compensation. Fortunately, I was helped by the civil aviation service.

Hi Carmen, We just crossed paths on our itineraries with Vinicunca and Valle Roja on the same day... 😉

Well, to get the 600 € per person, I had to fight for it. But, times four, since the kids were still traveling with us, it was worth it. 🙂 For you, it let you recoup the extra you’d spent on your Machu Picchu tickets, since you hadn’t bought them on the official site.😉

No issues for us with Iberia. On the way back, the first three tickets (adults + Timéo as a minor) were refunded within 8 days. For our two older kids, who are adults, we needed written authorization from them to transfer the money to our account. Since we dragged our feet with the paperwork, they ended up paying us the balance with an incomplete file! Yep, it more than made up for the extra 250 € we spent by going through Peruways’ unofficial site, even though it was labeled in capital letters (Official Site). It’s not for lack of having guides to avoid getting scammed like a rookie

J6 - 07/17: Cusco

A quiet day awaits us, a chance to recover from our efforts over the past few days, and because we have a night bus to catch to reach Arequipa.

While the kids sleep in, I head out alone to visit the ruins of Sacsayhuaman. The site is almost deserted at opening time.

Given its location on a hill overlooking the city of Cusco, it’s likely this site served as a military fortress in Inca times.



At the top, I’m rewarded with a beautiful 180° view of the city.

In front of the fortress stretches a large esplanade where, every year on June 24th, a reenactment of Inti Raymi, the Festival of the Sun, takes place. We missed it by just a bit.

Here’s the Sun Gate, just before leaving the site and heading back to the hotel for lunch.

After breakfast, we’re barely out on the street when we come across these two Peruvian women who take our photo with their llamas. It’s delightfully kitsch—you can see Maxime’s contagious joy—but the few soles we give in return help them make a living!

It’s pleasant to stroll through the streets of downtown Cusco, in the San Blas neighborhood.

In one of the alleys, we’re supposed to see a puma and a snake carved into the stone blocks assembled without mortar. We need the help of Peruvians to make out their shapes.

Right across from the wall, there’s a huge market where you can find all sorts of souvenirs at great prices—the best deals of our trip to Peru.

We do quite a bit of shopping for souvenirs and clothes.

Like everyone else, we line up to take a photo of the Twelve-Angled Stone, which, as the name suggests, has twelve angles to fit perfectly with its neighboring stones.

There are other ruins to visit on the outskirts of Cusco, but our shortened stay—due to a canceled long-haul flight—won’t leave us time to see them. That said, we’ve already seen quite a few since arriving in Peru.

So we focus on the attractions in the city center, where there are still parades and military marches around the main square. Since the start of our trip, there have been lots of festivities and a great atmosphere in all the cities we’ve visited!

We head up Loreto Street,