Off on an adventure in Sri Lanka (page 2 of 6)

Day 5 (continued)



Here, in this little fishing town, life moves to the rhythm of the waves. The locals, mostly Hindu, live according to religious celebrations. Sacred cows in the streets, colorful temples, fish markets, sandy beaches, and coconut trees are their daily life... and ours for today. That said, one thing Hindus and Tamils have in common is their kindness! It’s crazy—all these smiles given to us for free!

















Anyway, after the over-the-top temples of Koneswaram and Shri Badrakali Amman, the beaches of Uppuveli and Nilaveli for our baptism in the Indian Ocean, a refreshing coconut, some samosas that’ll probably give us hemorrhoids, and our first national kottu in a roadside shack, our Tamil detour is already coming to an end. A bold move. Exemplary courage. Total satisfaction! And since you won’t do it, I’ll humbly congratulate us myself. Tomorrow, just in case Siddhartha holds a grudge, we’re making our comeback to Buddhist country...

Day 6 – December 11

Okay, sure, it’s not exactly comfortable—it’s noisy, the gearbox creaks as much as my dad’s knees, and we’re tossed from side to side like we’re in a salad spinner. But man, is it *amazing* to cruise the stunning roads of Sri Lanka in our puttering tuk-tuk! And yet, here I am, typing this with mosquitoes still between my teeth, right after the five long hours we just endured between Trincomalee and Kandy, dodging the countless laid-back cows, packs of stray dogs, not to mention the chubby elephant casually strolling down the road, or the buses overtaking blindly around curves while spewing thick black smoke and honking...













I’ll say it again—this experience is pure, concentrated happiness... even if my dad in the back keeps his eyes shut as often as he clenches his cheeks! Anyway, all this storytelling just to say we’ve arrived in Kandy, the former capital and cultural heart of the country. On paper, the script is all about discovery and wonder.

Day 6 (continued)

But in my personal reality, I have to be honest—it’s a certified ISO9001 disappointment. I’ll mostly focus on the city’s main attraction, the Temple of the Sacred Tooth Relic and the ceremony held there three times a day to honor this canine that the tooth fairy didn’t want. First off, it’s expensive. Okay, fine, if you come out with your eyes sparkling like a bag of candy, I’ll admit it’s worth it. But no way! It’s stiff, it’s long, and I’d even say it’s about as interesting as rain falling on the windshield of a Lada Samara in November!















And yet... And yet, when it comes time to look back, Kandy will definitely be one of the highlights of our Sri Lankan road trip. My dad even got a little teary-eyed when we left. Want to know why? Don’t worry, I’ll tell you the whole story.

Once upon a time, there were two Sri Lankan siblings who put their heart, sweat, and savings into opening a guesthouse just a year ago. Based on exchange and sharing with travelers from around the world, their project was slowly taking off... until it reached my innocent ears and convinced me to book a night with them near Kandy at the Sky Blue Cabin. So far, so good—welcome to the world of Care Bears!

But two days before our departure, I got a much less fairy-tale-like message: Cyclone Ditwah had caused landslides and fallen trees, wiping out months of work. They invited me to cancel my booking unless I wanted to keep it knowing the situation. Out of solidarity and a genuine desire to help them rebuild, I decided to stick with our plans.

So, on the big day, I picked you up. We were warmly welcomed into a post-apocalyptic building with no insurance, where young and old were busy making sure we could sleep there that night in decent conditions. Arriving at lunchtime, we were invited to share their simple meal. No negotiation possible when it comes to hospitality! That evening, after our flavorless visit to Kandy, we were allowed to go to our room. One rule: Watch out, wet paint—don’t touch the walls! But before we could snore the night away, we were invited to another feast with the whole family. And what a feast! It was hands-down the number one meal of the trip—not just for the taste, but for the conversations that came with it!



Now, get ready for the tearjerker! When it came time to pay for the night and the three delicious meals Shashikala had prepared, it was like trying to insert a suppository—it just wouldn’t go in. We couldn’t get them to accept payment for what we owed, nor the financial help my dad and I had agreed on. Their response, which showed their extreme kindness and generosity, left us stunned: "It’s *us* who should thank *you* for coming all this way despite the difficult situation we’re going through!"



Sashikala and Shashika, I know you’re reading this. I want you to know that I’ll keep the emotional memory of this encounter close to my heart—the courage and humility you’ve shown. We *will* see each other again, I promise... And to give credit where it’s due, *we’re* the ones who should be thanking *you*!

Day 7 - December 12

A classic Sri Lankan tourist experience is hopping on the train that runs between Kandy and Ella. The reason is simple, my dear reader: According to the backpacker’s law, this railway line winds through stunning landscapes, and this stretch is actually considered one of the most beautiful in the world—no exaggeration. So, up for jumping on the train? Yeah?... Well, sorry, but we just got turned down... Turns out that pesky Ditwah (always her!) broke the fancy electric train that was gifted at Christmas. Result: A poorly managed meltdown, a toy in pieces, and trains grounded for the next six months. Way to go, champ...

So, hit the road, Jack—it’s me driving, you honking! Ladies and gentlemen, the tuk-tuk to Ella is about to leave—all aboard!

Once again, the bill is steep: a solid five hours clinging to Tukif’s hide. Luckily, the scenery does its best to put on a show, treating us to either mountain roads covered in impenetrable jungle where troops of macaques wave as we pass, or valleys carpeted with fluorescent rice paddies where farmers work tirelessly. Unfortunately, the postcard views we’re seeing hide gaping wounds we can’t—and won’t—ignore. Ditwah strikes again as the perfect culprit! Along the way, we pass through villages practically wiped off the map, swept away by either torrential mudslides or entire mountainsides that broke off, taking everything with them. It’s chilling and a stark reminder that the one in charge on this planet isn’t who we think!















"That’s it? Nothing more to say about these five hours of bumpy hell?" Of course there is! For starters, we put Tukif in 4x4 mode several times to get up close and personal with nature via narrow, bumpy backroads. And every now and then, we stopped to meet Sri Lankans and catch a glimpse of their daily lives through our Western eyes. And if I stopped my description here, I’d also be glossing over the *extremely* extreme trek of at least three kilometers we tackled to reach Dunhinda Waterfall, with its impressive chocolate-colored flow. You’ll notice I used the word "extreme" twice in the same sentence to make my dad think he’d pulled off a real feat—to reassure him about his physical abilities and keep him motivated for what’s next! Too bad, Dad!







Anyway, if you add in the 18 Bends road section, a massive dam, a giant Buddha statue we stumbled upon during our wanderings, plus the smiles of kids and welcoming waves from adults, you’ve got everything that made our five-hour journey worth it—until we finally landed in Ella, where we discovered our first rolling hills covered in those photogenic tea plants. And let’s just say, even if you offered me a burned CD of Eve Angeli’s greatest hits, I wouldn’t trade this magical view!

Day 7 (continued)





"By the way, Dad, as a fan of curves, would a view of these feminine contours from above tempt you to tuck in the sun for the night?" Deal! Let’s get those thighs burning for the ascent of Little Adam’s Peak, where some treacherous stairs full of steps await us. I’ve read before that the walk from Ella was idyllic... Let’s just say that’s not the word I’d use to describe it. And clearly, my dad isn’t about to disagree with me... "Oxygen support requested at the top of Little Adam’s Peak! Thanks for that!











There we go, that rascal of a sun has finally gone to sleep, so we can finally unwind—even if, I’ll admit, we weren’t exactly wound up to begin with... I know just the spot for that! A little haven I’ve found for us for the night. Simple, no frills, just a cabin deep in the jungle garden all to ourselves... We kick off our hiking shoes in favor of flip-flops, slice up some sausage while sipping our traditional daily pastis as a couple, on our terrace, to the sound of the jungle’s little critters. Isn’t this nice? I’ve decided—I want to live here for the rest of my life. To start, we’ll extend our stay here by one more night...

Hi Franck,

I was really looking forward to following your family adventures, and I’m not disappointed! That’s such a bummer about your brother’s trip being canceled...

A tuk-tuk as your main mode of transport? That’s awesome! 🙂

On the other hand, in 2019, you could also rent them in the Philippines—at least for the day, it was possible.

Sri Lanka’s one of those destinations where opinions are *all* over the place—some people are totally let down, others are completely blown away. So far, you seem pretty happy with it!

Thanks for the travel journal! !

Yes Pascale, it’s hard to be disappointed by this destination! That said, the mode of transport and way of traveling definitely play a big part too. Either way, Sri Lankans are lovely, the landscapes are super green, the beer’s good, and the water’s warm... what more could you ask for? 😎

Not much to see at first glance like that!

We shared some truly beautiful moments with this family, indeed.

Travel really puts our daily worries into perspective. In Indonesia, we met people who worked hard all day long, yet always kept smiling despite the challenges of their lives. A wonderful lesson in courage and humility.

Sri Lankans have had a tough time over the past few years and decades, but they still keep smiling no matter what!

Some truly beautiful moments shared with that family, indeed.

Travel really puts our daily worries into perspective. In Indonesia, we met people who worked all day long, yet always kept smiling despite how hard their lives were. A great lesson in courage and humility.

Hi Franck,

I’m so glad to read your trip report about your new destination. Would you accept a new relic (75 years old) in your tuk-tuk? Except for the northeast (Tamil country), I’m reminded of our adventure back in 2004 and the beautiful landscapes of Ceylon (oddly, that name didn’t stand the test of time, while Ho Chi Minh is still Saigon and Beijing hasn’t replaced Peking!). How lucky for the elephants—we only saw a few, and from a distance! Didn’t you visit a spice garden or the stunning Peradeniya Gardens near Kandy?

Larri

Request accepted, Jean-Claude! For the gardens, the prices are now exorbitant, so I decided to skip them... 15 € per person to wander around a garden—I thought that was a bit steep... Anyway, the adventures continue! See you soon for the next part!

Day 8 - December 13

In Sri Lanka, five fruits and veggies a day is a piece of cake! Waking up in paradise this morning, we're surrounded by coffee plants, cinnamon trees, jackfruit trees, mango trees, banana trees, papaya trees... So much so that we need to burn off all those vitamins with a burst of energy. You can guess I’ve got just the thing in my bag! A nature dripping with greenery, a sky so blue it hurts—doesn’t that make your legs itch to get moving?

We did, so off we went to Nine Arch Bridge, the iconic spot near Ella and arguably the most photographed place in all of Sri Lanka. Also called the "Bridge in the Sky," this railway viaduct is officially known for its all-stone architecture. But we weren’t just there to count the arches—we wanted to see the lush setting that makes it so special. To get there, you’ve got options, from easy to challenging. There’s the tuk-tuk drop-off for a quick, touristy pit stop (no halo included), or the sweaty hike that lets you arrive through the backstage, cutting through a dense forest before popping out to the cherry on its delicate bed of chlorophyll. We went with B—obviously! And once we were on that pilgrimage path, we knew we were exactly where we wanted to be, right in the middle of this green paradise... and the leeches trying to drain our calves dry!





So, what about the bridge? Is the hype justified? No debate here—it delivers. But let’s be real, it’s still just a bridge. A gorgeous viaduct, sure, but plop it in the middle of a Norman pasture with two cows and a gray sky, and it’d probably get way fewer Instagram likes. No, for us, the real star of the show is the surrounding nature, signing autographs left and right: towering eucalyptus trees playing skyscraper, perfectly lined tea plantations, impressive tree ferns, banana trees, and coconut palms rounding out the scene. It’s green. It’s beautiful. It’s *gloriously* green!









Back on Tukif, we’re now cruising the winding roads of the area, stopping for quick Kodak moments in tea plantations to meet the pickers, at Dhowa Rock Cave Temple (where the beauty-spirituality-price ratio leaves us frustrated), and at Ravana Ella Waterfall, where we pose for photos with the local macaques.

Day 8 (continued)

After that, with the sun officially off on a business trip somewhere unknown, we wrap up the day in Ella’s streets, which have a distinctly touristy vibe. Trendy bars and restaurants, chain souvenir shops, Western girls in miniskirts—definitely not our usual scene. But let’s be honest, the town does have one undeniable perk: beer is easy to find, and I’ve got to admit, Lion Strong, the Sri Lankan brew, is damn tasty....

Hey Franck

I’m jumping (virtually only, of course) into this trip at full speed as usual, and in a bit of a chaotic way 😏.

From your perspective, Sri Lanka really does seem pretty cool 😎.

Hello Franck

I'm diving (virtually only) into this trip at full speed as usual, and in a bit of a chaotic situation 😏.

From your perspective, Sri Lanka does seem pretty cool 😎.

Hello Muriel! Welcome aboard! I love those kinds of conditions! And we're leaving in 6 days for another adventure in the same spirit... off to Namibia!

Namibia—I’ll be following with even more interest now 😎!

Day 9 - December 14

On our Sri Lankan adventure today, we’re retracing the steps of a certain Thomas Lipton. Who exactly is this gentleman with a name that rings a bell?... He’s the man who once made what seemed like a casual remark but actually changed the fate of an entire country: “Tea for all!” You’ve probably guessed it by now—Mr. Lipton is none other than the father of Lipton Ice Tea, and more precisely, the man who made the world’s most consumed drink accessible to everyone. Because as obvious as it may seem today, tea used to be a luxury product. Rare and expensive to import, it was only for the elite who could afford it.

In the early 19th century, a disease devastated nearly all the coffee plantations on the island of Ceylon. While many saw it as a disaster, Sir Thomas Lipton spotted an opportunity. He bought no fewer than seven plantations and decided to grow tea there, convinced it was well-suited to the local altitude and weather conditions. The rest is history: Ceylon became Sri Lanka, and the country gradually established itself as one of the world’s largest tea producers.





The heart of these tea cultures is in Haputale, a balcony overlooking the world suspended somewhere between secret valleys and mystical mist. The small town is surrounded by tea plantations that lazily ripple across the hillsides, creating almost hypnotic landscapes. Hiking trails weave through them everywhere, all seemingly leading to the legendary Lipton’s Seat, the lookout where Sir Thomas Lipton loved to sit every morning, gazing at his plantations with childlike wonder.

Day 9 (continued)





And we totally get it! Because we’re also struggling to tear ourselves away from these landscapes, which are surely among the most beautiful in Sri Lanka. They fill our entire day—from a small local market to winding, narrow roads with breathtaking views, an informative visit to the Dambatenne tea-drying and packaging factory, a tasting of the sacred brew, a pause by the statue of Sir Lipton, and walks to meet the pickers carefully hand-plucking the top two leaves and bud from each bush in this sea of green... Time flies without warning in these timeless lands...





It’s in one of these villages we pass through that we set up camp for the night. By late afternoon, I’m a bit like my dad’s version of Frédéric Lopez, dragging him on foot through the village streets to soak up smiles and conversations as we quietly join in the locals’ leisure activities. We try our hand at a game of cricket—Sri Lanka’s national sport—chat with villagers tending their gardens or doing laundry, get one of our tuk-tuk’s fenders replaced after a bus ripped it off, and most of all, share simple moments made of glances and smiles... Another beautiful day gifted by this incredible country, which just keeps growing on us...

Hope you didn't rent a tuk-tuk for Namibia!

I'm heading there too in October 2026.

Hope you'll keep a Namibian travel journal! 🙂