From Mexico to the Wonderful Chiapas (page 2 of 3)

Comitán – Day 4 This morning, Oscar made me a gargantuan breakfast, the ‘Oscar Special’: a slice of avocado resting on a fried egg, resting on a slice of cheese, resting on a layer of refried beans (frijoles), resting on a slice of ham, resting on a tortilla. And all that multiplied by three! Needless to say, after polishing that off, I wasn’t hungry for the rest of the day! We start the day with Mar, visiting a new Mayan site, much larger than the one from the day before yesterday: Tenam Puente. To give you an idea of its size and importance, there are three ball courts on this site, each bigger than the one we saw at El Lagartero.







Then we have a picnic (a very light one for me) by the Chucumatiltik cenote. Mar and I take the chance to go for a swim. A cenote is a sinkhole caused by a meteorite impact ‘a few’ years ago, which filled with water. It’s very deep and serves as a ‘playground’ for the local diving school.









Next up is the surprising Unijab site. It’s a series of more or less natural pools (since the site is developed) where families come to picnic and swim.





Our visits for the day end here, but not the day itself. Because tonight at 8:00 PM, there’s a dance on Comitán’s central square. We’ll grab a bite from one of the street vendors and soak up the local vibe. It was an amazing moment—our presence didn’t go unnoticed since we were apparently the only tourists there.

Mar really stole the show! 😊

Comitan – Day 5 Today, Oscar decided to take us to the lakes park (57 of them!) in Montebello. To start, he showed us one of his favorite spots. To get there, we had to make a short climb at the Las Piñetas site. From the top of this little cliff, we enjoyed a beautiful view of a few lakes and a lagoon.





Then we moved on to other sites. Unfortunately, the weather was a bit unpredictable today. The wind has been blowing hard since this morning, and by midday, the clouds rolled in. No rain, but the air felt chilly.







Quick picnic by Lake Tziscao, and since we were just a few meters from the border, we took a few steps into Guatemala: a small artisan market and an international lake.





We then headed back to Comitan for a must-see visit in Mexico. We explored the cemetery, where we saw some decorations (permanent?) from the last Day of the Dead celebration.

Comitán – Day 6 For our last day with him, Oscar had planned to show us the old quarters of his city. But at the last minute, the plan changed. What a lovely surprise for us—and a huge stroke of luck: today is the feast of San Caralampio.

Local drink: pozol de cacao

Old water distribution point, still in use today.





We explore the neighborhood around El Puma Square, dressed up for the celebration: a colorful, musical parade of religious floats, costumed people, and riders. It’s both a religious event and a kind of carnival. The crowd lines the parade route heading toward the flower-covered church of San Caralampio. The fair has set up in El Puma Square at the foot of the church. The atmosphere is incredible. We stayed until it was time to head back to Oscar’s, pack our bags, and make our way to the bus station.













What a wonderful stop! If you decide to travel to Mexico, I can only recommend spending several days in Chiapas, especially in Comitán. We left with regret—Oscar took such good care of us. One thing’s for sure: he made us want to come back to explore, for example, the original plan of discovering the jungle in the Parque de las Nubes. I’ll remember this part of our trip for a long time, not just for the places we visited but for Oscar’s kindness, his stories, and his contagious laughter. And for his breakfasts too! Thanks, Oscar! I loved the feast of San Caralampio so much that I can only suggest checking out the extra photos in my next post. After about ten hours on the bus (Comitán to San Cristóbal de las Casas—2 hours—then San Cristóbal to Palenque—just over 8 hours), we arrived in the city of Palenque.

Comitán: San Caralampio

Step 7: Palenque (80m / 52,000 inhabitants) Palenque – Day 1 After dropping off our bags and grabbing a light breakfast at the hotel, we head out to explore the city center. We start with a quick stop at a hairdresser near our hotel—now we’re feeling refreshed!



Next, we take a little stroll around the zócalo and visit the church (it’s been a while!).





Then we decide to visit Parque Aluxes. Run by a nonprofit organization, it’s home to animals rescued from illegal trafficking or mistreatment. The association has also worked to create an ecosystem by planting over 10,000 trees. It’s a lovely walk, despite a few sneaky mosquito attacks.















We head back to the city center by colectivo around 3:00 PM and have lunch—a "menú del día" (soup, main dish, dessert—seasonal fruit—and a drink). Then it’s a relaxed return to our hotel to rest up for the amazing day we have planned tomorrow.

Palenque – Day 2 This morning, we set off to explore the stunning Mayan site of Palenque, which spans 1,780 hectares. The excavated archaeological zone represents only a small part of it (10%). It’s estimated that around 1,000 temples are still buried in the jungle. Located in the heart of the lush Chiapas jungle, the ruins of Palenque are said to be one of Mexico’s most impressive and significant archaeological sites. The pre-Hispanic city was founded in the 1st century BCE, but the buildings we can see today date from the 5th to the 8th century. It was one of the most developed cities in the Mayan world, alongside Calakmul and Tikal in Guatemala, with a complex social and religious structure before being mysteriously abandoned.

We take one of the first *colectivos* (with a ‘Ruinas’ sign on the windshield) and arrive around 9:15 AM. Our walk around the site lasted nearly 3 hours. Impossible to count all the steps we climbed up and down! At the start of the visit, there are a lot of people: visitors and vendors. However, the site is so vast that it’s not too bothersome. And once we passed the central area, many visitors—most of them on organized tours—disappeared.

















The Temple of the Red Queen (*Reina Roja*): It gets its name from the fact that the queen’s skeleton (wife of Pakal I) was discovered there covered in red cinnabar. The Temple of the Inscriptions or Temple of Pakal: This is the first pyramid of the Mayan city. It’s named after the 617 glyphs covering its walls and pillars, depicting scenes with human and animal figures that tell the story of Palenque’s Mayan civilization. The treasure found in the crypt is now in the Museum of Anthropology in Mexico City. The Palace: This is the most impressive structure on the site. It stands on a trapezoidal base measuring 80 by 70 meters, with many parts decorated with sculptures. The four-story, 15-meter-high tower (*el Observatorio*) was built for observing the sun and stars. It served as both the residence of the ruling class and the center of power, where the king and his priests performed religious rituals. The Temple of the Sun: Built in the late 7th century on a high four-tiered pyramidal base.

At the end of the visit, we wanted to see the museum. No luck (for once!), as it was closed for maintenance work. We continued with a lovely walk through the jungle to discover the forgotten temple, taking the *sendero Motiepa*. Along the way, we were lucky enough to see a whole group of howler monkeys. The magical moment of the day: a picnic, just the two of us, on the steps of this temple.







Back in Palenque, we scout out the *colectivos* for tomorrow morning and check their departure times.

Palenque – Day 3 For our last full day in Palenque, we skipped the Agua Azul and Misol-Ha waterfalls. Instead, we opted for Roberto Barrios, which is known to be less touristy. We made this decision in Comitán after talking to Oscar about it. We hopped on a colectivo at 9:00 AM (they leave every hour starting at 7:00 AM) to reach the small village of Roberto Barrios. There were two couples of tourists, and the other passengers were locals, most of them heading to the market in Palenque. So, we had a few bags and sacks of vegetables at our feet. After about thirty kilometers—covered mostly at high speed—we were dropped off in the village, right in front of the site’s ticket office. A few hundred meters later, we were already by the river, with a sign reminding us not to make fires, defecate, or... make love on the site...





Oscar had assured us the place would be quiet. Well, we practically had it all to ourselves! What a joy to swim and picnic in such a stunning setting! Thanks to Oscar for his great tip!





















What a beautiful day! I could use more like this! Tomorrow is our last day in Palenque before taking an overnight bus back to Mexico City.

Palenque – Day 4 We decided to rest before starting our long bus journey. Valentine’s Day in Mexico is the celebration of love and friendship. Remember the photos from Comitan’s square? Here in Palenque, the streets and squares are decorated. There’s even a Valentine’s Day market. We also watch the preparations for a concert in the central square. Shops are covered in hearts. People buy bouquets of flowers, stuffed animals, jewelry, candies, heart-shaped balloons, etc., either from the dedicated market, shops, or street vendors. Some are wearing clothes (jeans, dresses, etc.) with heart patterns. Many young people walk hand in hand with a bouquet of flowers.













To be honest, we still found this last day a bit long. We sat on a bench near the Santo Domingo de Guzmán church and watched time and people go by, as groups for catechism (for children and adults) set up under the trees.







This day was one too many in our itinerary. We could’ve stayed an extra day at one of our previous stops. Tonight, our bus leaves at 7:30 PM. During the trip, we were checked twice by state police. The second time was much longer because the officer took our passports, photographed them, and showed them to his supervisor, whom he had asked to board the bus. In the end, nothing to report, and we were on our way again about ten minutes later. During the second and final stop in the middle of the night at a bus station, we got off to stretch our legs. A man came over to chat with us. Happy to meet some French people, he told us about his trip to France and showed us photos of the Eiffel Tower. He wanted to give us a Mexico City metro card (but we already had one) and his daughter’s address so she could guide us around the city. We explained that we were at the end of our trip and that our plans for the last two days were already set. We arrived at Mexico City’s bus station at 9:15 AM after a 13-hour, 45-minute journey. Fortunately, the bus was almost empty, so we were able to settle in comfortably and get some sleep. We hop into a taxi and head to our hotel to drop off our luggage and negotiate access to the restaurant for breakfast.

Step 8: Mexico and the End of the Trip Mexico - Penultimate Day The square in front of the hotel and the surrounding streets are covered by the huge San Lucas market. You can really find everything there. And then, street by street, we end up, by chance, in front of the Museum of Mexico City. You’re starting to know us... ‘Hmm, we didn’t do that one in January!’ We get closer and—surprise—we see musicians getting ready. Free entry. A concert in honor of Adolfo Lopez Villanueva (a former leader and social activist in Mexico who passed away in 2021).

We settle on some steps inside the first courtyard and wait a few minutes. The musicians take their places. And at noon, the concert starts after a few speeches by officials. The conductor is very dynamic and shares his enthusiasm with the audience. At one point, he even turns toward them and gets them to sing along. The concert ends around 1:30 PM.

We head back to our hotel, pick up our room, and rest a bit. Because our sightseeing day isn’t over yet. I’ve actually booked tickets to Casa Azul, Frida Kahlo’s house-museum. It’s a really interesting visit that lets you discover the personal world of this feminist icon. It’s a must-see for art and history lovers, offering a fascinating glimpse into the life and work of this iconic Mexican artist, whose influence still endures today.

Mexico - Final Day This morning, we have a meet-up at 9:00 AM in our hotel lobby for a guided tour of Coyoacan and Xochimilco. We’re happy to reunite with Orian, our guide from Teotihuacan.

We start the tour with a stop in front of a stunning mosaic mural created by Diego Rivera, Frida Kahlo’s husband. Next, we head to the Olympic Stadium, whose main entrance is adorned with a massive natural stone mural depicting Mexico’s cosmovision. Then, we visit the campus of the National Autonomous University of Mexico. The library is the must-see masterpiece. The mosaics covering its four sides were made with colored stones brought from all over the country. Orian explains each scene, and the entire history of the country unfolds before our amazed eyes. Its architect, Juan O’Gorman, took three years (1953–1956) to complete this project.









After this visit, we head to Xochimilco and its floating gardens. A brightly colored boat (trajinera) is waiting for us, and off we go on the main canal to the sound of mariachis. They offer to play a few songs for all the tourists—for a fee (we don’t give in). The atmosphere is festive, folkloric… and commercial! We have lunch on the water, and about an hour later, we’re back at our little dock. I would’ve loved to wander through the greenhouses of the florists and market gardeners and step off the super touristy route we were offered. Still, it was interesting to see and fun to watch all those mariachi boats offering their services to every vessel on the canal. What a business!





From there, we head to the historic neighborhood of Coyoacan: old streets, the first church built in Mexico by the Spanish (San Juan Bautista), Cortés’ house (now Coyoacan’s town hall), and an artisan market. We end our walk in front of Frida Kahlo’s Casa Azul (closed because it’s Monday—we visited it yesterday for that very reason!).







We return to our hotel in the mid-afternoon. Justine wants to rest, while I head out for one last stroll through Mexico’s streets and avenues, all the way to the Plaza de la Constitución. Beside the cathedral, I watch with curiosity and amusement as shamans purify people with prayers and smoke—those seeking their powers. I take a few last photos and head back to the hotel.



And just like that, our wonderful trip to Mexico comes to an end. I hope you enjoyed this travel journal. Our adventure will stay with us, as you’ve gathered, thanks to our hot-air balloon ride at sunrise over the pyramids of Teotihuacan. And, of course, our meeting with Oscar, who shared his love for Chiapas with us. Thank you, and see you soon on social media! If you’d like to get in touch with him, feel free to leave me a message—I’ll pass along his contact info.

Lastly, thanks in advance for your reactions, feedback, and any questions you might have. See you this fall for new travel journals about my next adventure in Central Asia: Kyrgyzstan with my daughter (our first father-daughter trip!), then solo in Uzbekistan, where I’ll have the great pleasure of reuniting with Nasrullo (see my 2022 travel journal on Uzbekistan).

I can't resist sharing a few more photos from the San Caralampio festival in Comitán.



















And I’ll take this opportunity to thank Oscar again for his hospitality and kindness!

Hello,

Thanks for this amazing travel journal! I love Mexico—it’s one of the most culturally rich Latin American countries, and I think it’s my favorite. I spent two months there in 2014, from Mexico City to the Yucatán, mostly the same stops as you + Taxco (a really pretty colonial town).

Reading your first posts, I thought you might’ve skipped the Frida Kahlo Museum, which is definitely a must-see if you’re into art. At the Palacio Nacional, I also saw Diego Rivera’s stunning murals.

I *love* Mexico City—so many tourists don’t stop there, but it’s such a culturally rich city and deserves a few days. I saw exhibitions there on par with European standards, and there’s always something happening in the Zócalo. The National Museum of Anthropology is considered one of the best museums in the world.

You often stumble upon festivals—I even came across a funeral once, which was pretty surprising because the music was upbeat, and at first, I didn’t realize it was a funeral. I was told that for a child’s funeral, the music is even more joyful.

I also love Mexican cuisine—it’s so varied and different depending on the region, far from the clichés we have in Europe. It’s even on the UNESCO heritage list.

I’ve been thinking about going back for a while now—the country is huge, there’s so much to discover, and I hope to visit someday for Día de los Muertos. It’s supposed to be an incredible experience.

Thanks Marie. I totally agree—there’s so much to see and do in Mexico City! We loved Chiapas, and maybe we’ll go back someday... we’ve even been to Colombia twice! Other Central and South American countries are tempting too. Can’t go everywhere at a leisurely pace—life’s too short! I don’t know if you’ve been as far as Comitán in Chiapas, but that area is *really* worth the detour! Happy travels!

Thanks again, Philippe, for this rich and colorful account. You can really feel all the joy you experienced along the way and through these encounters—it’s so inspiring! Such a beautiful destination, one I hope to move to the top of my list before too long...😉

And yes, there’s so much to see in Central and Latin America... I’ve also been to Colombia twice and loved it, and in a completely different style, I’m heading back to Brazil in 2027 if all goes well!

Thanks Babou. A few years ago, we visited part of Nicaragua and loved—even savored—our stops, especially in El Castillo and Ometepe. All we have from that trip are amazing memories! Brazil! I’ve already looked into this destination, but it’s so vast and there are so many different beautiful things to see that it’s hard to focus and stay reasonable! Maybe one day! Good luck with your 2027 prep! !

Other Central and South American countries are tempting me too.

I don’t know if you’ve been to Chiapas as far as Comitán, but that area is really worth the detour!

Yes, I’ve been to Chiapas.

In Central America, the country richest in culture is Guatemala. If you love festivals, there are some beautiful ones there with almost no tourists. In Mexico, in front of the Anthropology Museum, I saw "voladores" for the first time. In Guatemala last year, I attended the Joyabaj fair where the "voladores" performed every day. I spent a week there, and it remains one of the highlights of my trip.

Brazil is another fascinating and culturally rich country. I visited different regions and felt like I was traveling through several countries.

Apart from Venezuela, Honduras, the Dominican Republic, and Ecuador, I’ve been to all the other Latin American countries, spending two months in each. My favorites are Brazil and Mexico, but you’d need a lifetime to discover all their riches (culture, nature, music, traditions, cuisine).

Hi Philippe, I’m discovering this travel journal after it’s already finished 🤪. Thanks for sharing this varied and colorful trip. All I know from your journey is Palenque… but the rest really makes me want to go 😎

Thanks, Muriel. We really loved all these stops in Chiapas, especially since we were lucky enough to attend all those evening festivals and dances (in San Cristobal and Comitan). Visiting these small Mayan sites without anyone else around—what a joy! And what can we say about meeting Oscar, who shared his love for his state and city so passionately! Finally, I’ve been wanting to visit Guatemala for many years now. 2027, 2028, ...? If you have any questions, don’t hesitate!

How lucky to have visited all those countries! In 2023, we had to cancel a trip to Paraguay/Argentina and the Iguazu Falls. And ever since, I’ve been wondering if Paraguay is even worth visiting. Otherwise, Guatemala has been calling my name for ages... But it won’t be this year, or likely next year either.

And ever since, I’ve still been wondering if it’s worth visiting Paraguay.

I’ve been really tempted by Guatemala for a long time...

I made a little trip to Uruguay from Argentina, but I never went to Paraguay. Recently, someone on this forum told me it wasn’t great...

Iguazu Falls is one of the wonders of Latin America. I went there during my stay in Argentina—a country with so much to see that even in two months, I didn’t see it all.

I visited Guatemala last summer. The Tikal site is my favorite Mayan site, along with Palenque.

On Myatlas, I made a travel journal about this trip and the Joyabaj Fair, a beautiful festival that’s not well-known to foreign tourists. If you’re interested, here are the links: https://www.myatlas.com/borboleta/guatemala-deux-mois-au-pays-de-la-couleur https://www.myatlas.com/borboleta/guatemala-une-semaine-a-joyabaj