One-month road trip in Namibia (page 2 of 7)

Halali is famous for its illuminated waterhole, which is incredibly scenic. We saw rhinos—three of them, including one baby. Photos just don’t do this encounter justice. This little ground squirrel was at our campsite



And this one, which isn’t a ground squirrel, was waiting with us at the waterhole for the animals









On July 1st, we head to Camp Okaukuejo. This is the largest camp, and it’s quite busy. It has a well-known waterhole because lots of animals come to drink, and it’s very well set up. The two camps are 80 km apart, and the road between them is stunning.









We decided to arrive at the camp in the late morning so we could relax at the waterhole in the afternoon without having to get back in the car.

We settle in quietly at our new spot, take possession of the place by exploring the surroundings, and have lunch. The squirrels are curious. They come up really close to see if they can find anything to eat and keep us company during the meal. They’re adorable. Then we head to the watering hole for the afternoon. At first, the animals arrived one after another: a group of zebras, then some antelopes, a few kudus, birds, a jackal, and then a large herd of elephants of all sizes, an oryx, giraffes... and then, at one point, there was "one of each" animal all at once. It was such a joy to see all these creatures together.







In the evening, we’re lucky enough to spot a rhino.

July 2nd: Since we’re sleeping at Camp Okaukuejo again tonight, we spend the day driving around the area looking for beautiful sights. We came across some lions... lying down. So all we saw were the cars waiting for them to get up. After half an hour of waiting, we decide to move on. We’d already been spoiled so far, so why not keep going? We spotted lots of animals: jackals, wildebeest, ostriches, zebras, giraffes... and more. Another really rich day.

Mathilde, the photos are gorgeous! I think you guys were lucky because it looks like you saw at least one black rhino (you can’t tell the species as well in the other photos), and they’re rare (in Namibia, I’m not sure, but it’s an endangered species).

Hi Pascale, Thanks! We only saw black rhinos, and yes, we were really lucky 🙂

July 3: We're hitting the road for Camp Olifantsrus. It's 130 km away, and it's really small and basic. This part of the park is wilder, and the animals are more skittish. Before breakfast and leaving, I head back to the waterhole to see what's around. After 5 minutes of watching, I spot an animal I didn’t know, appearing in the distance. I wait, and then I realize—it's a brown hyena!! I didn’t even think we’d see one during our trip. What luck! I just have time to call my husband before it disappears again.



We finish breakfast, pack up the tents, and set off for our last full day in Etosha National Park. The waterholes are still packed with herbivores—it’s really amazing.









At the campsite, there’s a wooden "hide." It’s nice with a small waterhole right below, but unfortunately, we didn’t see any animals.

July 4th: And just like that, Etosha is behind us. We have to leave the park before 10 AM. We stop at the gate to pay for our days. The police officers present ask if there’s anything to report and check the car trunk. All good, and we can continue our long journey to Epupa Falls—450 km to go. We stop in Opuwo to fill up on gas and grab supplies for two days. Immediately, women and children ask us for water and food. They’re very insistent. We’ll buy oil, rice, and water to give them, but since there are so many asking and we can’t help everyone, it creates jealousy, and we feel a bit unsettled by it. Luckily, they end up sharing a bit of everything. Between Opuwo and Epupa Falls, there are many children along the road asking for water. It’s tough not to stop, but there are just too many of them.

The road to our future campsite is absolutely stunning. A real feast for the eyes, and I’d love to stop every 30 seconds to take photos. My husband won’t have it, though—the drive is long, and we need to arrive before dark. Since we can’t drive fast, I get it, but I’m still bummed 😕

At Epupa Falls, our campsite is huge. We’re right by the water and have a private toilet and bathroom. Fancy.

July 5th: If we came to Epupa Falls, it's obviously for the waterfalls I'd read such great things about, but also for the Himba people. I was hesitant about visiting a village, but we figured we'd only know what it was really like by doing the "activity" ourselves.

In the morning, we set off with a guide to visit a village. It was just the four of us with the guide, and the visit was booked through the lodge that manages the campsite.

Okay, let’s be honest—I didn’t like it. It felt way too touristy and like a "factory" to me, so I didn’t talk much or ask questions (or very few). It didn’t feel natural, so I didn’t enjoy it. That said, I still learned a ton of interesting things about this people, and that’s not nothing ;) It’s just that there was no real interaction.









The village is very poor and dry. The houses are simple. It’s when you see how these people live that you realize how lucky we are to have everything in our society. It really puts things into perspective.

In the afternoon, we decided to visit the falls without a guide. We were approached several times, but we wanted to take things easy at our own pace. So we crossed the village and followed the Kunene River until we reached the falls. They aren’t huge, but they’re still impressive because the flow is strong. Plus, it’s so surprising to see so much water in such a dry region. A real oasis. To get a better view, we climbed to the top of the hill where there’s a paid viewpoint. It’s stunning. My son wanted to go river rafting, but there weren’t enough people, so it was canceled. So he just followed us.







View from the top



Front view



On our way back to the campsite, there were vervet monkeys. Don’t leave anything lying around because they’re thieves. We were careful, but one still managed to snatch a pack of sliced bread. I tried to get it back because it’s not good for my health, but it bared its teeth. Yikes, I didn’t mess with it. The person watching the campsite made it drop the stolen goods by threatening it with a stick.

The photos are stunning... and they’re making me want to go to Namibia even more 😉

Don’t hesitate to go. It’s a stunning country, and you’ve barely scratched the surface. Photos don’t do justice to the vastness and beauty of this place.

July 6th: we hit the road again to start our journey south. A long drive awaits us to reach the Khowareb Lodge campsite. 350 km. We plan to stop in Opuwo to refuel and stock up on groceries. Before reaching the town, we still encounter many children on the road asking for water or other things. We stay cautious. At one point, there’s a boy around ten years old making his goats cross the road. We slow down, he asks for something, and we refuse. He’s not happy, picks up a rock, and throws it at the car. We drive away and stop further on to check the damage. The car door took a hit. Obviously, we’re not happy about such behavior, even if we can understand his frustration. We had to call Michaël to find out what to do with the rental company—take photos, send everything... When we arrive in Opuwo, we realize nothing is open. It’s Sunday, and all the shops are closed. We didn’t pay attention to that, otherwise we would’ve done a proper grocery run two days earlier. Women and children hassle us like on the way there, but this time we don’t give anything. We fill up on gas and manage to find a few bits and pieces to buy at the station (luckily). Outside, people are selling fresh fruits and vegetables. We grab enough to cook for a few days, hoping we’ll find more to buy further on.

I wonder how they manage to live in those houses when it’s scorching hot. Tin roofs must be unbearable, even if I imagine they spend most of their time outside... 😕





The road is still just as beautiful.







We won’t do much today except drive and make stops, and we’re pretty upset about how the day went

July 7th: we don’t have much driving today. Palmwag is 80 km from our current location and it’s our destination for the day. The road is still just as beautiful and varied.





This concession is a nature reserve on the edge of the Skeleton Coast National Park, home to desert elephants, among other wildlife. We’ll be staying at the campsite attached to the lodge. When we arrive, it’s pure "class"—partly because of the location and partly because we have 4 showers and 4 toilets. One each!!! 😊 The place is stunning. It’s an oasis in the middle of the desert, complete with palm trees, a lodge, campsite, and pools. On arrival, we sign a charter agreeing to leave any elephants alone if we see them around the lodge. Apparently, they often come to drink from the pools. Will we be lucky enough to see one? We book an afternoon drive to look for them. The landscapes are gorgeous.











We spot zebras and antelopes but no elephants 🙁 Still, we don’t regret the drive!

July 8: 120 km to cover today to reach the Mowani Mountain Camp campsite in Twyfelfontein. Shortly after leaving Palmwag, we’ll pass through a sanitary checkpoint. The staff will check that we’re not carrying any raw milk, meat, or cheese. We do have meat, but it’s cooked, so all good. We can continue on our way. The road is incredibly diverse: the landscapes keep changing and are all so different. It’s stunningly beautiful, and no one gets tired of it.







Along the way, we’ll stop to see the Petrified Forest. The visit is short but really interesting.





Then we head to our campsite.



Wow, I was completely blown away. Total love at first sight for me and this super natural spot. There are very few sites, and they’re all blended into the environment. The shower and toilets are open-air, set among the rocks. I can’t show too many photos because of the limit, but you’ll still get a general view.

I’m loving it. And we have some visitors!

Oh my goodness, so many memories following your journey!!

In Palmwag, we were at the same spot, but I had booked a tent2Go, which let us take a break from the roof tent for a modest price compared to the lodge. And the elephants were definitely there!!!



Mowani stayed in our top 3 accommodations too! I had asked the lodge if we could use the hotel’s pool, and since it was almost empty (remember, Covid year), they let us in for free!





PS: I checked, my photos don’t affect your counter 😉

The view is pretty amazing, right?







We decided to take a little walk around the area and head up to the viewpoint to catch the sunset. The person managing the campsite will bring us some cushions so we can get comfy. Such a sweet touch! 🙂 It’s breathtaking, indescribable.

Ah! Namibia... I'm joining you on this adventure! 😊 Personally, it's the destination that left the biggest impression on me. We went in 2019 and then again in 2024—nothing but pure joy 😍, and what a pleasure to rediscover these places through your travel journal! 😊.

And knowing all the amazing trips you’ve had the chance to take, being number one on your list is no small feat.

I’ll say it again—what luck!!! A brown hyena! Great sighting! 🙂 For those interested who are heading to Namibia, Okonjima has a dedicated brown hyena tracking experience.

I’m going to Namibia at All Saints’ Day, including one night at the Mowani campsite—I’m even more excited now after reading your travel journal!

Ah, you were luckier than me with the elephants at Palmwag 😛 Two days before, there were some, and after we left, there were some too. No big deal—we saw so many animals and the landscapes are so incredible that it didn’t traumatize me 😉. We enjoyed the campsite pool on the second day at Mowani 😏 Well, when I say *we*... my son was the one who enjoyed it