Southwest USA Road Trip Part II (page 2 of 4)

Before leaving Sedona for Albuquerque, let’s take a little break to talk about what’s supposedly THE must-see spectacle in Sedona! I’m talking about the sunset that, from the heights of the regional airport, is said to be absolutely stunning. Well, or so they say.

So, of course, I had to check it out. I study the maps, the orientation, the sunrise and sunset angles, the golden hour... In short, I prepare my plan with all the seriousness of a photographer hoping to capture THE shot. And to start, I decide to scout the location in the morning.

The viewpoint isn’t far from the hotel or my usual walking spots. I drive up to the parking lot. Fee: $3. No one to collect it. Okay... As a good Frenchman, I look at the little box meant for tickets, then at my wallet. I don’t have any change. So, let’s just say that, that morning, my contribution to Sedona’s tourism development was limited.

I head toward the esplanade. A photographer is already set up and, like me, he’s waiting. The sun rises. It’s nice. It’s said that afterward, generally, it sets.

But photographically speaking, it’s not great.

The light doesn’t really convince me. I simply think we’re not in the right time of year. There must be a season—fall, maybe—when the sun’s orientation, the colors, and the quality of light give this viewpoint a whole new dimension.

No big deal.

I’ll come back the next evening for the famous sunset! And then... A complete change of atmosphere. The parking lots are packed, the surroundings and hills are covered with people. This time, there’s even an attendant to collect my fee. No way around it. So I pay my $3! Then head to the esplanade.

And there, about 200 people are waiting religiously for the big moment. Almost everyone is equipped with cell phones, snapping photos, filming, staging themselves, and Instagramming non-stop.

In the middle of this selfie-hungry crowd, we’re two poor “real” photographers, with our cameras, lenses, and probably way too much gear just to watch the sun disappear behind the horizon. And I wait. The sun goes down. The light changes. Then it sets. There. Again, I’m left a little underwhelmed. It’s obviously not ugly—it’s hard to make Sedona look bad—but for a photographer, I’m convinced there’s a much better time of year, with an orientation and quality of light that could truly set the red rocks ablaze. So, the famous sunset at Sedona Airport, an unmissable spectacle? You decide. Me, I’ve done my tests. And I’ve paid my $3.

Sunday, August 17. What an important day this is! It’s my wife’s birthday, and that’s not something we can miss—unless I want to end up in the doghouse! So tonight, we’ll be popping the champagne we brought from France in our suitcases to celebrate the occasion properly.

And don’t even ask how old she is. It’s terribly rude to ask a lady that kind of question. Let’s just say we’re both closer to the end than the beginning. There, no numbers given, and no trouble!

But before the champagne, we’ve got to hit the road again.

We leave Sedona after one last photo walk for me behind the hotel and a breakfast that was, as usual, nothing special. One last look at those stunning red rocks surrounding the town, a few more photos—because, of course, I can never get enough—and it’s time to load up the bags and continue our journey. Sedona is behind us now. Next stop: Albuquerque, New Mexico.



We take Highway 89A north, still as beautiful as ever, and soon find ourselves back on the plateau. Then, a right turn onto I-40, and just like that, we’re back on the legendary Route 66! Once again. It really does seem to follow us for a good part of this trip, and honestly, I’m not complaining.

All in all, the drive to Albuquerque will be about 570 kilometers (354 miles) and six hours, including stops for supplies. A full day on the road, then.

We finally arrive in Albuquerque.

The hotel we chose is right next to Old Town, and honestly, it’s pretty nice! It’s got that great New Mexico vibe, and best of all, it’s perfectly located for exploring the old quarter without having to hop back in the car every time.

We check into our room on the 11th floor, complete with a balcony and, most importantly, an amazing view of the vast plains of New Mexico.

After the red rocks of Sedona, it’s a complete change of scenery. Before us, wide-open space. Still the American West, as far as the eye can see.



Given the significance of the day, though, we won’t be setting off on any big adventures tonight.

We’ll just take a first stroll through Old Town to get a feel for the place, then pop into a well-stocked supermarket to grab some supplies.

And after that, it’s back to the hotel.

No fancy restaurant or complicated plans tonight: just champagne in our huge 11th-floor room, with the balcony and the vast plains of New Mexico as our backdrop. After all, a birthday deserves to be celebrated!

And this one was worth lugging a bottle all the way from France in our suitcases. Tomorrow will be another day under the skies of New Mexico. Isn’t life beautiful?

Hi Mitch,

Your photo is worth 3 dollars... but not more, given the stunning landscapes of Sedona.

Between Sedona and Albuquerque, there’s so much to see—just miles of road.

Best,

Fabrice

Hi Mitch,

Your photo is easily worth 3 dollars......but not more given Sedona's stunning landscapes.

Between Sedona and Albuquerque, there's so much to see—what a drive!

Best,

Fabrice

Well yeah, I’m still keeping it in mind. [;]

Hello, you know when I told you that the church in Sedona was worth visiting… even if we’re not religious.

Totally agree with you about Route 66—it’s often far from the myth.

I saw that sunset where everything turns orange in the fall… it was starting to get chilly.

Monday, August 18.

I'm up fairly early and I'm going to take advantage of it to explore Old Town Albuquerque, located right next to the hotel.

At this hour, the tourist crowds aren't here yet, and honestly, it's nice to have the place to myself for a stroll. It's really pleasant to discover the area quietly before everyone else arrives!

The neighborhood could almost be classified under the "artist village" category. Small, low houses, shops, galleries, patios, and above all, that adobe architecture typical of New Mexico, blending Pueblo and Spanish influences. The warm-colored facades really give the whole place character.

I wander leisurely through the little streets around the Plaza, camera in hand, enjoying the morning light and the calm that still reigns over the neighborhood. And since I'm scouting things out, I take the opportunity to spot interesting places and note the spots to visit with my wife in the evening.

After all, scouts have to be useful for something!

And now, after a quick shower, no breakfast at the hotel this morning! Not included in the reservation and, given the price list... we’ll skip it.

No worries, though: there’s still some fat reserves on this guy and, more importantly, some essentials in the room’s fridge. We should survive!

We hop quickly into the car and hit the road to Santa Fe, the capital of New Mexico.

And, since we’re in the area, a little reminder about our beloved Route 66 is in order.

Route 66 and Santa Fe: When the famous Mother Road was created in 1926, its route passed through Santa Fe. Travelers coming from the east via Santa Rosa and Pecos would head up to the capital of New Mexico, taking the old Santa Fe Trail in particular, before heading back down to Albuquerque. But in 1937, change of plans! A new, much more direct route was put into service between Santa Rosa and Albuquerque. Route 66 then abandoned its big detour to the north and no longer passed through Santa Fe. Result: a shorter and faster route to Albuquerque. So, for only eleven years, from 1926 to 1937, Santa Fe was truly part of Route 66. There you have it for the history minute!

After about an hour on the road, here we are in Santa Fe.

We park the car in the large esplanade facing the Capitol. A brief moment of hesitation over the apparent lack of parking meters: free or not free? An American citizen, who speaks French—how convenient!—confirms that parking is free.

Perfect. I really like this guy!

Next, we stop by the Visitor Center, where we’re warmly welcomed. As is often the case in the States, the information is precise and the advice plentiful.

We’re especially recommended to check out what’s said to be one of the oldest churches in Santa Fe, and even in New Mexico.

OK! We’ll see that a little later.

For now, let’s carefully cross the road and head toward the New Mexico State Capitol. You with us? So... Let’s go!

About Santa Fe. We crossed the road to reach the entrance of the Capitol. And this Capitol is quite remarkable for its architecture. Indeed, unlike almost all the other state Capitols in the U.S., this one isn’t topped with a dome!

But why, you might ask? Well, I’ll explain, based on the information I gathered there.

In Santa Fe, buildings are subject to particularly strict height regulations designed to preserve the city’s unique architecture and character. There’s no question of seeing skyscrapers and towers sprouting up like mushrooms here! The rule we were told is simple: you must not exceed the height of the cathedral! And Saint Francis of Assisi Cathedral itself isn’t particularly tall: its spires reach about 85 feet, or 26 meters, while the nave is about 46 feet, or 14 meters high.

The result? When you look at Santa Fe, the skyline remains remarkably clear. No forest of skyscrapers overshadowing the traditional adobe buildings.

And that changes everything. In fact, this city reminds me of a Middle Eastern city where a similar rule was also in place... or more precisely, used to be. But that’s another story.

With this little architectural history moment over, let’s gently push open the doors of the Capitol. We’re greeted by a very friendly person. A quick bag check, a few instructions, and then we’re free to explore.

And then, surprise!

This isn’t just a place for “politics.” It’s also—and perhaps especially for visitors—a real museum! The artworks are everywhere.

In the hallways, on the walls, in the halls, around a staircase: paintings, sculptures, photographs, contemporary works... The Capitol houses an impressive collection dedicated largely to artists and the culture of New Mexico.

And the most surprising part? You can walk almost freely among it all. No set route, no guide following you around, no mandatory direction with little arrows on the floor.

You push open a door, take a hallway, go up a floor, and discover. In short, exactly how I like to visit. So let’s start with a little culture.

It won’t hurt anyone, and the icing on the cake: it’s free! Yes, free. In the United States. That alone is reason enough to take advantage of it! And we’re going to take full advantage...

After finishing that incredibly pleasant visit to the Capitol — and, by the way, no chance of seeing the Governor... what a shame! — we hit the sidewalk again to explore downtown Santa Fe.

No need to get back in the car here. Everything can be done easily on foot.

Along the way, we stop in front of what’s supposedly the oldest church — or chapel, I can’t quite remember — in the city.

With its typically Hispanic architecture, it’s said to have been built around 1610. A small adobe structure, very simple on the outside, that doesn’t necessarily catch your eye when you walk by.

Entry costs $5. For a room that’s roughly 150 m², that’s a bit steep! But hey, it’s a nice gesture.

Especially coming from me, who usually refuses to donate a cent to the Church of Rome!

So, we go in.

It’s small, sure, but remarkably well-maintained. The interior has a lot of charm, especially with its stunning ceiling architecture — those big exposed beams instantly give the place that unique atmosphere of old New Mexico buildings.

No need to spend two hours there. You look around, take photos, and take a moment to appreciate the place and its history.

And, of course, like so often in the States, there’s a little gift shop on the way out. Every little business counts!

We head back out and continue our stroll, this time toward the historic heart of Santa Fe.

Still in Santa Fe, continuing our stroll.

The central square is surrounded by shops with prices that are, let's say, substantial. Under the arcades, a line of vendors offers jewelry, handcrafted items, and other knick-knacks designed to tempt passing tourists. And it works.

The missus splurges on a T-shirt for $45 in one shop! Whoa?? Let's take it down a notch!

We then step into a very nice boutique with a chic Western vibe—more gala cowboy than dusty ranch hand.

And there, the missus spots a rather special shirt. A beautiful Western-style shirt, embroidered, more suited for special occasions. — Hey, you’ve got one like that! Yep.

So I take a closer look. It’s really nice, actually. Then I check the price: $150. Huh? I paid around $170 for mine back in 2016. Considering how many years have passed, it’s almost not that expensive...

But doubt creeps in. Hmm... no easy pun intended.

Since doubt is sometimes the beginning of wisdom, I sneak a peek at the label sewn into the collar. MADE IN CHINA. Well, there you go! Ha, that’s America for you!!!

A few weeks later, back in France, I still want to get to the bottom of it. I open my closet, carefully take THE shirt out of its protective cover, and check the label.

The verdict is clear. Mine is a Lansky Bros. And not just any brand: the Memphis tailor famous for dressing the King, Elvis Presley.

I bought it in 2016 at Lansky’s on Beale Street in Memphis, Tennessee.

And behind this shirt lies a great story.

In his early days, Elvis apparently didn’t have a dime, but he already had a clear idea of the style he wanted. He frequented the Lansky brothers’ shop, and Bernard Lansky helped shape the flamboyant look that would become inseparable from his persona.

Legend has it that Elvis, still unknown and broke, essentially promised them: "Dress me now, and when I’m famous, I’ll come back to you." Not a bad bet... Because he did come back. And then some.

So my Lansky Bros. shirt, bought in Memphis, stays carefully protected in its cover.

It only comes out for very special occasions. Once, maybe twice a year. No need to go overboard.

It’s the King’s shirt!

So, let’s dive into Santa Fe.

But before we continue this intense tourist activity—translation: shopping—lunch is a must.

And it’ll be... a burger! Yes, I know. After spending part of the trip explaining that American burgers are only good for five minutes, here I am, sitting at the Plaza Café, at 54 Lincoln Avenue, right next to the central plaza. The restaurant is lively, packed, people are talking loudly, moving in every direction, and honestly, the vibe is pretty great.

Burger devoured, we head back to the Plaza.

This square is really pleasant to explore. The arcades, the shops, the passersby, the vendors, Santa Fe’s typical architecture... There’s a special atmosphere here that makes you want to take your time.

And today, we’ve got all the time in the world. Because it’s shopping day. Yes, exactly. It’s even part of our trips’ very rigorous planning. In the official itinerary, Madame gets a full day of total freedom dedicated to shopping. I really insist on this idea of freedom.

But be careful.

Total freedom absolutely does NOT mean unlimited spending! Let’s not confuse democracy with anarchy, after all.

And since, in our remarkable marital organization, I hold the vacation bank, I naturally stay cautious, vigilant, and extremely attentive to Madame’s wishes.

I accompany her. I advise. I observe. I discreetly keep an eye on the price tags. And when necessary, I remind her of a few basic principles of good budget management.

In short...

Under close financial supervision. Even if, sometimes, she has this annoying habit of reminding me of my origins when it comes to my relationship with money. She’s tough on me. Really tough. And completely unfair, of course. I’m not stingy. I’m simply focused on the proper allocation of available resources. Which, you’ll agree, is entirely different. Well... that’s my take on it. And I’m sticking to it. There, I’ve said it. Alright, enough joking around, let’s explore Santa Fe a bit more.

Because beyond the shops, the overpriced T-shirts, and my somewhat relative supervision of the vacation budget, the city really deserves some time.

We stroll leisurely through the downtown streets, surrounded by this unique New Mexico architecture: earth-colored facades, low buildings, Pueblo and Hispanic influences, galleries, small courtyards, and all kinds of shops.

Santa Fe undeniably has its own identity. And then comes the time to hit the road again toward Albuquerque.

For the return trip, I decided not to take the most direct route.

We’ll take the famous Turquoise Trail, the scenic road connecting Santa Fe to Albuquerque while passing through several former mining villages in New Mexico.

Okay. I’ll be honest.

Nothing to write home about. The road itself didn’t give me any mystical revelation or force me to stop the car every three miles to pull out the Nikon.

It’s nice, sure, but after everything we’ve seen so far on this trip, it takes a little more to impress us now.

Its real appeal lies elsewhere.

The Turquoise Trail passes through several small towns typical of this region of the United States, former mining villages that have become havens for artists, artisans, and people who seem to have decided they’re perfectly happy here and have no reason to live anywhere else.

And that’s ultimately what gives the route its charm.

We leisurely drive through this rural New Mexico, far from the Interstate, with its small roads, isolated houses, dry landscapes, and villages that still tell the story of the region’s mining history.

It might not be the road of the century.

But for getting back to Albuquerque without mindlessly retracing the same path as before... It does the job perfectly.

Speaking of burgers, (quick foodie aside) didn’t you guys have any chili during your meals? Surprising if that’s the case, since it’s originally from Texas if I’m not mistaken, and this road trip covers the area. Anyway, whether I’m in the region or not, as soon as I’m in the States, I do a local comparative study because I love it. And I’ve never found the same taste in France. Not even trying different recipes.

Speaking of burgers, (a little culinary aside) didn’t you have any chili during your meals? Surprising if that’s the case, since it’s originally from Texas if I’m not mistaken, and this road trip covers the area. Anyway, whether I’m in the region or not, as soon as I’m in the States, I do a local comparative study because I love it. And I’ve never found the same taste in France. Not even trying different recipes.

No, no chili. I rarely stray from my culinary preferences. I had a burger because it was really the only thing I could tolerate.

Even during my stays in the Middle East, I’m very careful. No meat, for example.

To be honest, when I’m abroad, I’m cautious. The only place that tempts me for the food is Japan. But that’s another story.

Cheers.

We got back to the hotel in Albuquerque. It's still hot—really hot, in fact. My wife decides to go rest in the room while I, an athlete at heart—yes, I'm joking—bravely head to the hotel pool.

And the pool, well, it's pretty impressive. Enough to do a few laps... or, more realistically, find a quiet spot in the water and consider that just making it here counts as physical activity.

An attendant is there to take your orders: drinks, food, and other essential snacks for the high-performance athlete I've become in just a few minutes.

Wouldn't want to risk hypoglycemia by the pool, after all.

So I settle in quietly. After all, vacations are also for this.

I chat for a while with a woman who, upon discovering I'm a French tourist, asks me—half-seriously—if I wouldn't want to take the U.S. president back in my luggage.

New Mexico is pretty Democratic, let's not forget!

I reply, *in petto*, that it could maybe be negotiated, but on one condition: that the exchange is fair and she takes ours along with his entire government.

We both burst out laughing. There you go. Franco-American diplomacy just took another decisive step by a pool in Albuquerque.

Later, back in the room after this intense athletic and diplomatic session, we decide to dine at the hotel restaurant.

Light music, pretty successful local decor, not-too-spicy food—which isn’t a given around here—and a bill that’s still a bit steep. Then comes the now-unavoidable *tip* moment on the card terminal: 15%, 20%, or 25%. Your choice! It’s tough.

But hey, we’re not going to complain. The vacation budget is still flexible, and after all, we’re here to enjoy ourselves.

Back to the room. Tomorrow is another day.

Wednesday, August 19.

Today, the heat is forecasted, and it’s definitely going to live up to expectations. So, we’re keeping the plan reasonable: exploring Old Town Albuquerque, this time with the shops open, followed by a visit to the city’s Natural History Museum.

We won’t be visiting the Albuquerque Museum. It closes relatively early, and as always, time is tight. You’ve got to make choices—the cruel dilemma of the organized tourist!

The shops in Old Town are mostly what you’d call artist boutiques: jewelry, local crafts, clothing, decorative items, and other more or less typical Southwestern U.S. products.

It’s pretty nice to browse, even if, when it comes to clothing, it’s really not my style.

As for Madame, she’s checking out the jewelry but isn’t finding anything she likes either. It’s worth noting she only wears gold. She even claims to be allergic to everything else. Yeah, right...

A highly selective allergy, it seems, and one that, curiously, never flares up when she touches yellow metal. Medicine still holds many mysteries. Anyway!

Old Town is a pleasant spot—shady and colorful, which is especially welcome under the New Mexico sun. It’s enjoyable to stroll leisurely under the arcades, pop into a few shops, and admire the neighborhood’s typical architecture.

We even exchange a few words with some French tourists passing through. Since the start of our trip, this hasn’t happened all that often, so the encounter deserves a mention.

All in all, Old Town is a really pretty little neighborhood—peaceful, touristy for sure, but it’s managed to keep a certain charm.

And with its church, of course.

Because here, like anywhere else, an old town without its church just wouldn’t quite feel like an old town. And let’s not forget the chili peppers.

And in this old city of Albuquerque, there’s a must-see! The Snake Museum! A must-see... especially for me.

I’m finally going to see live rattlesnakes! Up close! Behind glass, sure, but alive all the same.

Freedom be damned!

The entry fee is modest, and the ultimate reward? They even give you a survival diploma for facing rattlesnakes. Now I’m officially qualified.

Off to the visit! And then... how to put it? It’s small. Very small. Like really, really small.

Terrariums housing all kinds of local snakes take up most of the space, and between them, shelves packed with all sorts of stuff—books, objects, souvenirs, random curiosities...

A real flea market!

The aisles are so tiny that two people meeting face-to-face simply can’t pass each other. You’ve got to negotiate the space like on a single-lane mountain road.

And then I reach THE terrarium. Finally! Here’s one. A rattlesnake! I’ve already told you that rattlesnakes use their famous rattle when they feel threatened. Well, here too. Despite the glass between us, I approach slowly... Trrrrrrrrrrrrrr! It rattles. I take a step back. Silence. I move closer again. Trrrrrrrrrrrrrr! I step back. Silence. It’s like... "Day... Night... Day... Night..." I could play with it for a while, but I’m not sure the rattlesnake shares my sense of humor.

Meanwhile, my wife, who *really* doesn’t like snakes, has adopted a much more rational strategy: she stays in the gift shop. Which must be... two square meters.

At least no snake should get lost in there.

So yes, the place is tiny, cluttered, improbable, and nothing like a big modern museum. But go anyway! Make the effort and push the door open.

The guy built all this himself, and some of his residents are brought in by locals who find snakes in their gardens or around their homes.

And in the end, that’s maybe what I’ll remember most about this slightly crazy place: instead of systematically killing these creatures that scare us, we can also learn to know them and give them a chance.

Even rattlesnakes. Well... Behind glass, though.

To wrap up the day, we head to the New Mexico Museum of Natural History and Science in Albuquerque. The entry price is very reasonable. Except that... There are workshops, film screenings, the planetarium, and a few other activities that get added to the admission ticket. And if you let yourself be tempted by everything, the bill can quickly skyrocket. We reasonably opt for a film about Jupiter’s moons. Okay. It’s good. Even interesting. But nothing to write home about! A very large part of the museum is dedicated to dinosaurs and all sorts of other strange creatures that had the bad idea of disappearing before we arrived. As for the reasons for their disappearance, I’ll leave you to draw your own conclusions. No unnecessary controversies. We had also planned to take advantage of the telescope for observing the Sun. It’s out of order. There you go. The Sun is definitely out—even *very* out given the outside temperature—but today, we won’t be getting a closer look. Overall, though, it’s still a great place. The museum is modern, very educational, the exhibits are well done, and there’s plenty to keep you busy for a few hours discovering the history of our planet and those who inhabited it long before us. And most importantly... It’s cool inside! Which, in Albuquerque in the middle of August, is already a perfectly valid scientific argument in my book. Afterward, we head back to the hotel for some well-deserved rest. Tonight, it’s a light dinner in the room. Simple. Easy. No excess. And especially no Bresse chicken, foie gras, lobster thermidor, or any other gastronomic extravagance that might wreak havoc on our bodies after such an exhausting day. You’ve got to know when to keep it reasonable. Tomorrow is another day.

Ah! Finally! A rattlesnake! I was starting to wonder if you’d make it.

Ah! Finally! A rattlesnake! I was starting to wonder if you'd ever pull it off.

Thanks for the support! I'm gonna make a video montage of the little critter! 😎

And here’s the baby.

https://youtu.be/MokD4F8CmMs