Four-Week Journey Through Southern Thailand and Angkor (page 2 of 12)

Amazing travel journal. Thanks for sharing! :) We also fulfilled our dream of visiting the Angkor temples last summer. Absolutely stunning. We rediscovered Bangkok and Thailand too. We spent 2 months in Southeast Asia (Thailand, Cambodia, Kuala Lumpur, and Indonesia: Flores/Lombok/Bali). Asia is home to so many wonders and paradise-like spots. We’re compiling our travel journals and tips for fellow travelers on our blog (with videos). If you’re planning your trip or just dreaming of getting away, here are our travel stories from Asia, our take on the Angkor temples, and our Bangkok City Guide. Happy travels to all! !

19/07/2013

This is the perfect time to thank a forum member who, if I remember correctly, pointed out that the road between Phang Nga and Suratthani was the most beautiful in Thailand. That’s why we’re stopping by Krabi before heading to the islands. It’s always such a great moment during vacation when you treat yourself to a little extra to explore several pretty spots. There’s a cost to it, but we’d rather skip something else during the year—nothing would ever compare to the value of a memorable day.

The day before, we haggled hard but couldn’t get the price we’d hoped for, which had been mentioned by VoyageForum members. The taxi and his vehicle cost us 4,500 baht for a 230 km trip, knowing full well that our driver would have to make the return journey, even if it was a shorter route than the loop we took on the way there. On top of that, we didn’t have time to shop around—we were just relieved to have found someone so quickly.

We ended up with a very kind and friendly man; it was a pleasure. It’s something we’ve noticed over time—many Thais really know how to interact with tourists. Some even go above and beyond what we expect.

We make a quick stop in town to see what it’s like. Aren’t those two little cuties adorable, spontaneously posing for us?



We head north first, and our first stop is the Tiger Cave. We were expecting something a bit insignificant—a short nature break for tourists wanting to escape the monotony of the beach. Not at all. We’re glad we gave our driver free rein, insisting we wanted to see beautiful places. It’s a large complex, partly under construction. Temples, quite a few statues, monkeys roaming freely, all set against the mountain. We also enjoyed the cave with the replica of the Emerald Buddha at the back. Steps lead into the cliff, with paths to a forest walk or a viewpoint, but we’re still recovering, and we don’t want to blow our schedule right at the start.



A few kilometers further on, we reach a large and beautiful temple high up in the tropical forest. The interior is adorned with high-quality illustrations, and in the center of the room, a golden relic is displayed, though it’s hard to see because of the heavy security. Outside, there’s a great view of the plain and the hill opposite, where a giant Buddha emerges.



Our driver makes another stop near a river. A lovely spot where a few people are kayaking along the mangroves. For once, we don’t know exactly where we are, but it doesn’t matter—the joy is there.



What’s especially nice about having a driver at your disposal is that you can stop whenever you want. We do, without overdoing it. Here, a family’s little stand selling lychees by a pond overlooked by a karst cliff; there, processions of villagers, then a tiny, very rural restaurant.



In the afternoon, we take a short break by Lake Ratchaprapa, at one end of Khao Sok National Park. It’s very pretty, but the morning sun has given way to a threatening sky.



It’s time to head east—we’re running late. We still stop to photograph a traditional house. Of course, the elderly owner comes to ask why we’re there and invites us inside. What follows is a lovely moment of exchange; this time, we have an interpreter.

Throughout the journey, the tropical landscape scrolling by is rich and pleasant to behold. Without a doubt, we’d love to come back one day to spend more time in this province and explore it in detail.

At our request, the driver calls Songserm from his car to book our boat ticket for the next day. We’re surprised he makes us pay right away. He just gives us a ticket with his letterhead. Having spent time with him since the day before, we could tell he was trustworthy, and that turned out to be true. The price we paid was the standard rate. His only lie, if it even was one, was claiming that Songserm was the best company.

We check into the Wangtai Hotel. Suratthani isn’t an interesting city—we didn’t put much effort into finding a unique hotel, especially since the choice is limited and we’re just passing through.

Whoooaaa! Another amazing travel story with gorgeous photos—thanks so much!

7/20/2013

Like many supposedly upscale hotels in Asia, the luxury and glitz are mostly confined to the lobby and reception area. Everything else often swings between outdated and dilapidated. That was the case at the Wangtai. The plumbing was on its last legs, the soundproofing was a bit lacking, and the sliding window was warped and wouldn’t close completely. Still, at 22 € a night, the air conditioning was good, the bedding was comfortable, and there was a pool we didn’t have time to check out...

The next morning, we got a surprise when we went to settle the bill: the total was much higher than expected. We’d used room service the night before, and the prices for the dishes and drinks definitely didn’t match what we were charged. We quickly went back up to the room and came back down with the menu. It turned out the in-room price list had never been updated, and none of the many employees working there over the past decade had thought to address the issue. At first, they refused to adjust the current prices. We insisted that honoring the prices listed in the room at the time of ordering was also a matter of respecting the customer. They eventually agreed to a small discount, but we were feeling particularly persistent that day. What followed was a series of negotiations, minor frustrations, and us pulling out all the stops: what would happen if we called the police? If we shared our story online or on Agoda? From the outside, the scene must have been comical—two of us fired up, facing eight staff members taking turns behind the reception desk with defeated expressions. Then, of course, the dignified and august manager arrived, and we started all over again. By the end of the exchange—a mix of exasperation and smiles—they finally gave in. The final act was a memorable round of mutual apologies and polite farewells.

Our taxi had politely waited and took us to the bus, as the Songserm ferry terminal was several dozen kilometers away. Another chance to admire the beauty of the landscape in this region.

The ferry we’d imagined as larger was almost an hour late. With Songserm, there were far more standing spots than seats, and an extra charge of 30 baht for seats to Samui and 40 baht for those heading to Koh Phangan, in a room pompously called the VIP Room. There was also an English movie with Thai subtitles blaring at a volume that was way too loud, though the sound cut out completely most of the time. And finally, total chaos when unloading luggage at the Koh Samui stop. The ferry seemed very slow to us. We wouldn’t repeat the experience with Songserm.

So far, the weather has been what we’re used to at this time of year: summer isn’t quite over, and the monsoon hasn’t really started yet. The sun welcomed us to Koh Phangan. Eager to get to the hotel, we didn’t haggle over the pickup taxi price of 200 baht per person—we later saw the hotel offered it for 150 baht.

We arrived on the northwest coast at Haad Yao Highlife Bungalow Hotel, 77 € for two nights without breakfast but with a beautiful infinity pool. The photos on the website looked promising. It’s a small place with its own charm, and we’d opted for one of the more budget-friendly bungalows. As for downsides, the bedding was a bit worn, and the location up high meant we had to go down—and back up—several dozen steps to reach the beach. What’s more, at high tide, you had to wade through about ten meters of waist-deep water to get there.



On the plus side, the list was long: real peace and quiet, a stunning view of the beach below, a clean and reasonably sized pool near the restaurant, beautiful tropical plants scattered everywhere, excellent food with one of the best pad thai we’d had just when our appetites returned, great music—quality rock or house—and, most of all, incredibly friendly and attentive staff. Not to mention the hammock on the balcony terrace and the three comfy hammocks in a little chill-out spot near the pool, with a sea view. Of course, we look back on it all with nostalgia. In one of the photos, the photographer recovering...



The late-night dips in the pool were nice, but why on earth hadn’t they heated the pool when earlier in the afternoon we’d noticed they’d heated the sea?

Hi Joël,

But that’s it?! We were hoping to read for an hour—bring it on tomorrow! Have a great day and enjoy the long weekend! Denis

Can't wait for the next part! Personally, we really loved Koh Pha Ngan, so I'm looking forward to reading your thoughts on this island. And, like Joël, I'd love a bit more to read !😉 Just kidding, of course! There's not much to say about one night in Surat Thani...

I’m joining everyone who loves your story and photos.

Thanks for sharing such a warm perspective on the places you’ve traveled through.

Hello,

Your compliments mean a lot to us—it’s a great reward. Of course, it’s a bit frustrating to wait for the next episode. We’re doing our best to publish at least one post every 48 hours when possible. We need to carefully review our notes to include details that could be useful for other travelers, which takes more time, but that’s the whole point... Some stops turned out to be less interesting than expected, while others were much more so. One thing’s for sure: some days will get a deeper dive, and you’ll soon see new photos that we’re sure you’ll enjoy. Hang in there...

What a joy to read your post! It’s so smooth, full of humor and details—great job! And not a single spelling mistake!! A real feat. Thanks to PARIS ET MATCH!! Looking forward to reading the rest soon...

and no spelling mistakes!! a feat

Uh, I find that remark a bit condescending—it’s totally unnecessary and doesn’t add anything to the discussion!😕

It’s not mean-spirited, but I find this remark particularly out of place, especially by emphasizing the "feat," as if not making spelling mistakes were reserved for just some people...😕 So please, don’t make it a controversial topic.

And what does Nicolas Bouvier have to do with any of this????

Hello, Oh, why? Nicolas Bouvier? The Bouvier’s dog? Could you explain, please? Thanks. And... no mistakes, lol. Bouvier - Wikipedia fr.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bouvier Thanks

Nicolas BOUVIER, of course! But here again, people will think I'm CONDESCENDING!!!! But I don't care!! I express myself like so many other forum members—long live FREEDOM of speech, especially on a forum. Of course it's mean and uncalled for.

This travel account is fascinating, so why not praise the authors of these beautiful pages??? Your comment doesn’t add anything.

That’s exactly what I was afraid of—condescension and nothing more. As for Nicolas Bouvier, I bet he’s laughing his head off and wondering what game you’re playing... 😏

Nicolas BOUVIER of course! But here again, people will find me CONDESCENDING!!!! But I don't care!! I express myself like so many other forum members. LONG LIVE FREEDOM of speech, especially on a forum. Of course it's mean and uncalled for.

This travel journal is fascinating, so why not praise the authors of these beautiful pages??? Your comment doesn't add anything.

Hmm, condescending isn't just two words, is it? Lol (and not mean) But please avoid trashing this post, for once we're reading something really great!

++ 2😎

7/21/2013

The weather’s a bit iffy in the early morning. We were expecting bright sunshine over the islands, but over these few days, the climate has actually been a little less favorable than on the mainland.

While we’re having breakfast waiting for the shuttle to our excursion, we meet Coco, the house attraction. Coco flits around the restaurant waiting for a snack. Coco knows everyone, but if you hand over a pen, you know you’ll see Coco again—but not the pen. He’s also a non-smoker because he’ll perch at your table and methodically dismantle your pack of cigarettes, along with every single one inside...



We went through Orion Boat Trips for a day trip to the Ang Thong Marine Park, located due west between the islands and the coast. Our attempts to book online on their website didn’t work out. We just kept getting emails saying a response was coming soon—but it never did. Once we asked in person, we were told: "Oh yeah, you can’t book on the website!" No big deal—whether from Samui or Phangan, just ask at your hotel reception, and they’ll sort it out in five minutes.

The day costs 45 € per person, all-inclusive, including snorkeling gear rental. You set off on a well-worn but seaworthy boat. The friendly organizer giving the departure briefing looks like he’s seen even more of life than the boat. He’s got that ex-hippie vibe—maybe Dutch? But he’s a nice guy who knows his stuff and takes good care of the clients in his charge.



You’ve got to admit, the food is pretty decent. There are unlimited drinks, and throughout the day, they always hand out little treats at just the right moment (bananas, pineapple, watermelon, big, delicious fritters).

During the hour-plus journey, the weather’s changeable—occasional raindrops here and there, not ideal. To be honest, full sun wouldn’t be much better. The first stop near a small islet is for the only snorkeling session, which is short and fairly unremarkable.

The first stop on one of Ang Thong’s islands lets you climb up to admire a stunning little emerald-green inland lake, which you can also walk around.



After lunch, we stop at the famous island where you can choose between kayaking or hiking up to the viewpoint. The climb takes between 20 and 40 minutes through the tropical forest. It’s best not to be out of shape, especially when the ground is wet. This time, there are no steps—just big rocks all the way. For most of the hike, the only option is to haul yourself up using the thick ropes marking what you can hardly call a path. If you rush, given the heat and humidity, you’ll reach the top with your head boiling. With a backpack, it’s a workout.

Of course, when you take in the view, you forget all about it. It’s simply breathtaking. The scenery speaks for itself—just savor it.



You savor it on the way down too—it’s slippery, and at times, you’re practically crawling on all fours to stay safe. It’s a relief to finally reach the white sand.

The return trip seems shorter, and it’s nice to admire Koh Phangan as you sail past at the end.

Another good meal at the hotel, and before others arrive, we rush to the hammocks next to the restaurant, which we occupy for several hours. Nothing in the world could make us move—fruit juices, smoothies, gazing at the beach and the horizon where little lights start flickering on everywhere. Just the usual, really...

Hi there, and thanks! I didn’t know about that! I’ll sort it out in January! Keep up the good work... for our enjoyment too.

The delight continues: THANK YOU to all of you! :)

I find a smooth, error-free style just as pleasant ;) and not condescending at all.... Personally, not having to decipher things is pure bliss!