Northern to Southern Alsace (page 2 of 6)

A short hop after Rosheim, the fifty most attractive kilometers of the Wine Route begin in Obernai. This town of 13,000 inhabitants enjoys a fair amount of tourist success. The town center is surrounded by ramparts where you can take a pleasant stroll. Right in the center, the market square and the belfry square follow one another. You’ll see beautiful old houses with colorful roofs, the old town hall with its impressive belfry over 50 meters tall, and the lovely Renaissance well with its flowers and buckets. All around, as you’d expect, restaurants and bakeries. Take a walk through the surrounding streets—there are lots of interesting buildings. For our part, we really liked the Chapel of the Mount of Olives, next to the cemetery behind Saint Peter’s Church.







For those with the time or interest, two significant sites lie in the hills west of Obernai. First, there’s Mont Sainte-Odile, a pilgrimage site where Saint Odile, the patron saint of Alsace, is buried. It has everything: a church, cloister, chapels, and a sarcophagus. At nearly 800 meters above sea level, deep in the forest. If you take one of the paths descending from it into the woods, you might come across the mysterious Pagan Wall, built by the Celts at least 22 centuries ago for reasons still completely unknown today.

Finally, about ten kilometers further west, the remains of the Struthof camp. Also high up in the forest, this was the only WWII concentration camp located in France. The sinister entrance gate, the photo exhibits, and the sight of the rooms where monstrous experiments were carried out leave visitors speechless. We’ve seen images like this a thousand times in films, but standing in front of such a place in real life is something else entirely. It’s not exactly a "must-see," but it’s an essential visit for the sake of remembrance...

Let’s take a little detour for our wine-loving readers.

Alsace wine is primarily made from white grape varieties. I won’t list them all or give you a lecture that many winemaker-owner-growers will deliver on-site with far more talent and professionalism. But I’ll share a few personal thoughts anyway.

Let’s be honest: Alsace wine is underrated and often overlooked. When you drink several white wines from different regions and then taste an Alsace white, you can’t help but notice its fruity notes, its bouquet—basically, its *terroir* that sets it apart and makes it instantly recognizable. Is it an exaggeration to say it’s also *frankly better*? At the very least, it’s a happy alchemy between the generous sunshine on these slopes and a terroir like no other. In the latter part of the 20th century, we moved from white wines loaded with sulfur that gave you a headache after three glasses to the creation of the "grand cru classé" designation for certain parcels (around fifty). Among the grape varieties, the standouts are Riesling (dry and classic), Pinot Gris—formerly known as Tokay—(dry but fruity and elegant), and Gewurztraminer (very fruity and sweet).

For sweet white wine lovers, stepping into the cellars is like getting a taste of paradise: many know and appreciate wines labeled "vendanges tardives" (late harvest). Harvesting as late as possible before the frosts yields a distinctly sweet, luscious wine that’s hard to stop sipping—and you’ll pat yourself on the back for the great deal you got. This wine is made from the three grape varieties mentioned, and personally, I prefer it with Pinot Gris, but they’re all excellent. Yes, with Alsace white wine, you’re never in for a bad surprise.

But what I really want to draw your attention to is THE NECTAR: don’t die an idiot—treat yourself to one or more bottles of one of the world’s most sublime wines at a still-affordable price. Indeed, on certain parcels and when the climate allows, the winemaker lets "noble rot" thrive on the grape clusters. This is actually botrytis, a fungus that develops under very specific climatic conditions. It concentrates the juice in the grape, which shrivels, and adds complexity to the flavor. On the bottle, you’ll see the label "Sélection de Grains Nobles." Winemakers sell the 75cl bottle for 40 to 60 € depending on the estate’s reputation, but sometimes you can find it much cheaper depending on stock. This wine can be enjoyed right away, but it can also be aged for 20 years. You might detect pronounced notes of honey, apricot, or mango. As for the price, remember that it’s not possible to produce this every year, that the grapes sometimes have to be harvested by hand (not mechanically), and that it may require several passes. There’s a cost to that, of course.

Finally, I think you’ll generally find better prices with small winemakers: the Alsace wine will be the same everywhere, but with subtle flavor nuances. A little warning, though: in summer, the coolness of the cellars is a relief because the heat is heavy on the plain. You’re relaxed, sipping a few small glasses—so watch out for the 30°C blast when you step outside...!



For those who enjoy firewater, the options are endless. The region specializes in mirabelle, quetsch (plum), kirsch (cherry), raspberry, Williams pear, and pretty much any berry that can be foraged in the forest. But be careful—it’s often 40/45% alcohol, *to kill germs*, you know. And that’s nothing compared to what my grandmother used to bring me from who-knows-where. I have great memories of it—not because she never made me pay, but because I’d occasionally let friends try it without warning them...

But what I really want to highlight again is the queen of spirits: Gewurztraminer marc. This schnapps is made from partially fermented grape must. The aroma is unmistakable—you can’t confuse it with anything else—and what a fruity punch, my friends. I can only recommend a little tasting, and if anyone ever finds a better one anywhere in the world, I’ll be amazed.

From this point on, it becomes difficult to list all the villages and suggest a choice among them. After Obernai, you’ll want to take a look at Barr and its medieval center, as well as Heiligenstein with its beautiful 16th-century fountain. A few kilometers further, you’ll stroll for a while in Mittelbergheim, which is also on the list of the most beautiful villages in France due to its architectural unity and its 16th-century houses.

On our side, we really enjoyed passing through Andlau, a charming little town nestled under the hills, recognizable from afar thanks to its castle with two towers looming over it. Its emblem is the bear, stemming from an old legend, which explains some of the paintings and sculptures. There are still some very pretty houses here and there, and it’s pleasant to have a drink in the town hall square.











While the abbey church doesn’t look like much at first glance, we loved the interior. There’s the statue of Saint Richardis, the founder, described as "the most beautiful woman ever seen in this world." What a delightful representation—this statue with such a well-crafted face, a bear at her feet, and in her hand, a model of the abbey from that era. At the back of the abbey, we were left in awe by the shrine of Saint Richardis, mounted on four feet and adorned on its sides with magnificent relief figures. This 14th-century piece is absolutely stunning. Note that you can also access a crypt where a few coins will turn on the lighting, allowing you to admire some magnificent ancient works and sculptures.



As in many villages, you can reach the two castles either by road or via forest paths. We left the Haut-Andlau castle for another time and went to see the ruins of Spesbourg. Up there, it’s so peaceful, and as always, the view of the village, the vineyards, and the Alsace plain is a real treat.

At this point in the trip, it might be worth making a little detour east, crossing the motorway toward the Rhine to visit Ebersmunster. This town is known for its stunning Baroque abbey, the kind you’d usually only see in Austria. The interior is particularly impressive—the artists did a great job without making it feel overdone.

Back on the wine route, after Andlau we quickly pass through Blienschwiller, where we admire the pretty château that a winemaker has set up for themselves along the way.



Nearly next to this village is the fortified but very flowery town of Dambach-la-Ville, with its share of old houses. By this point, you’ll have long noticed that Alsatian villages are all competing with each other to win the title of the world’s most flowery village. The king of balconies is the geranium, which, if not the prettiest flower, is particularly well-suited for brightening up balconies and window boxes. Everywhere, this mix of old objects, well-maintained typical houses, and floral spaces adds a lot to that fairy-tale feeling. Above the village stands a château, Bernstein.





Make one more tiny hop, and you’ll find the charming village of Scherwiller... and in the middle flows a river.



Not far from Scherwiller stands the second château that’s easiest to spot from the highway: the Ortenbourg fortress, recognizable by its pentagonal keep. If you take a walk there, you’ll come across the ruins of another château below it, Ramstein.

I’m still following along with great pleasure. There are still places for me to discover. Thanks!

It's so beautiful, so floral, and your pro photos are such a pleasure to look at! Thanks!

Good evening,

Since this is a selfless effort, we’re happy just knowing we might make a few people happy in the future. But people like you who reach out—or will reach out—already give us our reward...

Awesome, keep the great posts coming! And thanks again for sharing!

There are now just a few kilometers left to cover before reaching the border of the Bas-Rhin department.

You’ll first pass through the village of Chatenois, which is home to a charming old town hall and several historic houses. You can also admire the Witches’ Tower there, but the highlight is the church tower flanked by four turrets, giving it a distinctly medieval look.





Once again, you’ve barely started the car before stopping in Kintzheim. It’s the surroundings of Kintzheim that draw visitors. From April to early November, you can watch the Eagle Show in the castle courtyard, featuring several species of large birds of prey. It’s a hit with families, especially since the Monkey Mountain is just a short distance away. There, a large group of macaques roam freely, and you can even feed them. It’s a bit like traveling without really going anywhere.

Hello! Thanks for all this info—it’s really helping us plan our getaway in early June! Looking forward to reading more from you all!

Perched on the border of two departments, as if to seal their unity, stands the majestic symbol of Alsace—one of France’s most visited monuments and a dream for both young and old: the Haut-Koenigsbourg Castle.

Whether you arrive by road, highway, or during a visit to the surrounding area, it will inevitably catch your eye.





This imposing castle was built on a vast rocky spur at 800 meters above sea level. Fortunately, its structure suffered less damage than other castles in the region. Then came the year 1899. Alsace had been unwillingly German again for 28 years. When Emperor Wilhelm II visited the region, the villagers at the foot of the hill proposed restoring the castle. Not only was the emperor a great enthusiast of fortresses, but it would also be an opportunity for him to showcase a magnificent and impressive image of Germany at its border with France. With the Germans, when there’s a project, there’s no fuss: 1) decide, 2) plan, 3) execute. As a result, no expense was spared: a locomotive was brought to the site, and electricity was available there before the villages in the plain had access to it. The best technicians and historians were involved. The genius of the project was making a simple but brilliant decision: the monument would be rebuilt identically. The Germans’ lack of flair saved history! They used what remained to restore what was destroyed, and the rest was reconstructed either based on old engravings or by copying structures from the same era elsewhere in Northern Europe.

The result? Stepping inside, ladies and gentlemen, you’ll feel like you’ve traveled back a few centuries. Its color makes it unique, and its size will leave you in awe.













Countless details will delight you. The frescoes, the numerous weapons, the furniture, and the cannons all add to the overall impression.



















We recommend visiting right at opening time—there’ll be fewer people. Don’t miss the guided tour; the medieval kitchen is worth the detour.

During a trip to Alsace, Haut-Koenigsbourg is the cherry on top. Let’s just hope the weather’s nice. Kids, at least, will be thrilled...

Let’s take another little detour to talk about the Alsatians.

Almost everywhere, especially in the countryside, you’ll hear them speaking a rather odd and particularly incomprehensible language. That’s the Alsatian dialect, probably older than France itself. In fact, our close German neighbors in Baden, on the other side of the Rhine, understand us perfectly. Alsatian sounds quite folksy and funny. It’s also very colorful and pretty much untranslatable. Those who understand it know it’s probably the best language for comedy theater. So don’t hold it against them too much. Some older folks struggle so much with French that it’s better they don’t speak it too often. Besides, on that note, many of our fellow countrymen are starting to catch up...

Generally speaking, Alsatians are disciplined, hardworking, and organized. That’s handy for tourists because restaurateurs run good restaurants, winemakers make good wine, and hoteliers are great hosts. Sometimes you might get the impression that Alsatians seem austere and reserved. It’s just that they’re serious. Those who’ve lived in Alsace realize that behind that first impression, there are people who love to laugh, live life, and who you can count on. In tourist-heavy spots, visitors often remember meeting competent, friendly, and endearing people. Alsatians have always respected their guests. Other than that, Alsatians really like things to be "choli" (nice/pretty). No wonder there’s so much cleaning, painting, and flowers everywhere!

Alsace was German from 1871 to 1919 and again from 1940 to 1945. Imagine the distress of a whole people whose hearts and way of life were tied to France, only to be forbidden from speaking French and giving their children French names. Let’s not hide the despair many felt when they saw France defend them so poorly against the enemy and then abandon them so easily. And what about all those young men, the "malgré nous" (against our will), forcibly enlisted into the German army, many of whom never returned? And for what result? For a long time, especially in the 60s and 70s, those who went on vacation elsewhere in France with a car registered in Alsace were regularly called "boches." It’s good to remember history, but isn’t it sometimes better to let go?

You’ve barely stepped down from the Haut-Koenigsbourg castle when you find yourself already in the neighboring Haut-Rhin department.

The first village you come across is Saint Hippolyte, and it’s just as charming as the others.





A few kilometers further, Bergheim welcomes you with its towers, ramparts, and its thousand-year-old lime tree, under which our ancestors were already celebrating back in the 1300s.



Before passing under the tower at the village entrance, you’ll spot a little man carved into the stone, making a strange gesture—the LAK MI. If we want to keep it polite, LAK MI translates to: "See my backside." The story goes that Bergheim was the most open-minded town in Alsace during the Middle Ages. People who had committed certain offenses took refuge there, assured they could live safely. The LAK MI figure symbolizes this man escaping his pursuers by taunting them a little...

A little aside about the Vosges:

I’m only talking about the Alsatian Vosges here, not the other side of the range in the Vosges department. This region is fabulous even for those who aren’t too sporty—or not sporty enough. The altitude is moderate, and depending on the area, there are trails for everyone. Not only is the forest incredibly diverse in its composition, but the beauty of the landscape is constant throughout both departments. I’ve seen so many stunning viewpoints, so many rocks with strange shapes, and so many pleasant trails. I’ve never in my life encountered a forested range with such a wonderful scent as the Vosges. Those who go there with a keen nose will experience it. Even if you’re not hiking, many villages and castles are right next to or within the forest. Just walk a few dozen meters and take a deep breath... Another plus: it’s extremely well-marked everywhere. In fact, the Vosges Club was founded back in 1872 and still has a large membership today. This organization, a true institution in Alsace, has had plenty of time to establish and maintain all possible trails. What’s more, some of these hiking trails pass by *fermes-auberges* (farm-inns) where you’ll be served hearty, delicious meals made from local and very natural ingredients. At such reasonable prices.

The Three Castles circuit above Ribeauvillé really impressed me, but I’ll come back to that later. On the other hand, I highly recommend the Three Lakes circuit (Lac Blanc, Lac Noir, Lac des Truites) for those who can do it. A fantastic day trip, about twenty kilometers west of Colmar. Here’s a link: http://www.alsacerando.com/ficherandos/68005/

Quarries in these hills have long supplied the pink sandstone used throughout Alsace—you’ve probably noticed it in many of our photos. Occasionally, you’ll come across a monument that’s more yellow. Yep, in some places, there’s also a bit of yellow sandstone.

We knew, Michel, that sooner or later you’d spot this travel journal—one that’s also a journal of nostalgia for me. It actually adds a touch of exoticism to our usual stories about Southeast Asia...! Here, we share with French speakers, and over there, it’s the Thais who return the favor. If you also find enjoyment in reading us, you’ll know it makes us really happy...

A few kilometers after leaving Bergheim, you arrive in Ribeauvillé. It's a town of 5,000 inhabitants that, along with two of its neighbors, forms what I consider the tourist heart of Alsace. Every early September, since the Middle Ages, a very popular minstrels' festival has been held there. You'll find a few of them depicted or engraved here and there.



As soon as you arrive, you can see part of the old fortifications.



Zooming in a bit, you can see who their current occupants are. I must admit: whenever I return to Alsace, the sight of storks on the rooftops has the same effect on me as Proust's madeleine—it almost brings a tear to my eye. The one I saw in my hometown one spring day in the 70s was one of the few survivors at the time. This migratory bird has faced many challenges, from the scarcity of food in fields and marshes to high-voltage power lines and hunting in Africa. A growing awareness has helped preserve this other symbol of Alsace. Several parks are dedicated to them. Those raised locally lose their migratory instinct and stay put. When the old houses are in full bloom and you also have the large nest on the roof with the pair of storks chatting away, clacking their beaks, you get a beautiful postcard effect...



The town stretches out lengthwise and tends to charm visitors more and more as they explore further. With its beautiful old houses, you'll notice the fountains, the unusual town hall, and the beautiful butchers' tower.















Ribeauvillé takes its name from the Lords of Ribeaupierre, who long held their fiefdom. They had plenty of time to build three castles just above the small town. While only the tower of one remains, the overall structure of another is relatively well preserved. Near the end of the village, by the Hôtel des Trois Châteaux, a path on your right leads you to them one after the other. First, you find yourself next to the vineyards overlooking the town, then you head into the forest. The climb gets quite steep toward the end, so allow enough time, but it’s doable without exceptional physical condition. A good way to cool off, stretch your legs, and work up an appetite...







Finally, be aware that in this part of the region, buses arrive daily. Obviously, it’s mostly well-off couples, families, and retirees. But if you want to visit in peace during the high season, it’s best to come very early or... much later.

Once again, just a few kilometers are enough to reach the next destination. Hunawihr doesn’t have the architectural wealth of its neighbors, but it does have a rare feature: the fortified church that served as a refuge for villagers as far back as the 15th century still stands. Its position above the village, surrounded by vineyards, gives it a special charm. And it offers a great view—you can even spot the castles of Ribeauvillé.

Good evening, visiting some villages in France is a dream of mine.

I love small villages and everything rural.

Riquewihr is a major tourist hotspot in Alsace. Since this little town is tucked away in a dead-end, it escaped the fighting of the Second World War that ravaged the area around Colmar.

On the main street, you won’t know where to look or what to photograph first. Just take your time strolling through it. Some remnants of the past are absolutely stunning, and the pictures will say far more than words ever could...