Peru-Bolivia 2017: A Month in the Andes (page 2 of 8)

Day 7: Christmas Day at COPACABANA!

Because yes, we’re here—in Bolivia! The epic overnight border crossing had almost made us forget, but we woke up this morning in Bolivia! No time to dawdle; the day will be long since it’s dedicated to the only activity in the area: Isla del Sol!

No need for a guide or organized tour for this day trip. At 8 AM, we buy our tickets at the port (45 BOB for two—yes, the currency changed!) for the northern part of the island. Our goal: reach the southern part via the ridge trail and catch the boat back at 4 PM. We board a rickety boat cobbled together from odds and ends, powered by two ancient outboard motors, mostly surrounded by locals loaded with packages...



An hour and a half later, we dock. Needless to say, the vibe is totally different from our previous two islands... Vendors and guides of all kinds approach tourists, and we quickly pay our first local "toll" to access the trail.



Long is the road...



So, yes, the island is stunning, the path is well-marked (and the tolls are plentiful!!), letting you soak in the views... Five hours of hiking under the scorching sun, nearly at 4,000m, and four tolls later, we’ve crossed the island. But in the end, everyone here has given in to the siren call of commercialization, and what we saw didn’t convince us... A nice walk, sure, but a bit too structured for our taste. We told ourselves more than once—what must it be like in peak season?! 🤪

So it’s on another rickety boat that we return to Copacabana, where after a good shower, we finally enjoy our well-earned fondue!!

Day 8: The Capital, Here We Come!!

Transfer day today—or rather, transfer morning—since the bus we caught on the fly at 8:30 AM will drop us off in La Paz around noon. Smooth ride, and plenty of local companies will take you for 30 BOB, leaving once the bus is full (which happens really quickly, in this case).



Fun stop to cross a lake arm where you take a boat while your bus boards... a barge!!



Lima was huge, but La Paz is no less impressive! With 2.3 million inhabitants, this city has an astonishing geography. We arrived from above and were blown away by the capital’s sprawl. Dropped off who-knows-where, it was the kindness of locals that guided us to our accommodation. San Andino Hostel, a hostel we found on TripAdvisor for 30 € a night, turned out to be a fantastic choice. Just steps away from La Paz’s two most famous streets (Sagarna and Linares), the place is clean, courteous, and quiet—highly recommended!

After settling in, we set off to explore the neighborhood. But everything’s trickier here because every street seems vertical with how steep the slopes are!! Still, we leisurely strolled through the famous streets mentioned earlier, where we also found the equally famous "Witches’ Market." We visited the cultural site of Iglesia San Francisco, but what really caught our attention was the crowd and the lively atmosphere in these historic center streets during the Christmas season.



We pushed on to Plaza Murillo, the heart of the city, and then to the Mirador de Tilli Kiki (by taxi this time—the slopes were too tough!!) to admire the city lights as night fell.



Return by taxi—the night had set in, and the streets felt a little less welcoming...

Quick shoutout to Gladys Resto, on Calle Llampu just steps from the hotel, where we had the best pizzas in Bolivia at unbeatable prices and freshness!!! This super-friendly Bolivian runs two tiny restaurants on the street, but the quality and hospitality are five-star! Our go-to spot in La Paz!

Hi again, and thanks so much for sharing such an amazing recap of your trip. It’s really interesting!

If I understand correctly, you preferred the Peruvian islands over the Bolivian ones? I thought it was the other way around—that Peru was more touristy and less authentic on the lake.

Also, in terms of prices, is Bolivia more budget-friendly than Peru, even around the lake?

Thanks!

Hi there, and thanks for your feedback—it’s great to hear!

To answer your question, yes, Peru is more touristy than Bolivia, and definitely more organized in that regard.... On the other hand, we visited the Peruvian islands in two days, spending one night there and having more time to explore the places. But our crossing on the Bolivian side didn’t convince us, especially with the abundance of hostels and restaurants we came across, as you can see in this photo taken in the southern village.



To wrap up, yes, Bolivia is more "budget-friendly" than Peru. The currency is weaker, and the cost of living is lower. But the flip side is that poverty is more visible there, even in big cities (like La Paz).

Day 9: La Paz, Continued...

Second day in this bustling capital that we continue to explore.

A question arises: how to get around this huge city without completely exhausting ourselves with endless walks or hopping from one taxi to another? We want to see Sopocachi, a more upscale neighborhood, the Moon Valley, a geological curiosity in the far south of the city, and also head up to El Alto, due north, to get a bird’s-eye view of the city... In other words, a planned elevation change of around 800m for the day, between 3,800m and 4,200m in altitude....

Actually, it’s the tourist agency across from our hostel that provides the answer: the Sightseeing Bus tour, a double-decker bus booked the day before for 60 BOB (8 €) per person. Two possible routes—one for the historic center in the afternoon, the other for the south of the city in the morning, departing at 10 AM and returning at 1 PM. Yes, as touristy as it gets, but our feet and our breath are begging for it...

We go for the morning tour, and a taxi takes us in 10 minutes to the starting point, Plaza Isabella. The bus is a bit rickety, but there are only about ten of us on the tour. With headphones on, we cross Sopocachi, making a few stops at points of interest while listening to the speaker’s very detailed explanations in French. Our route takes us all the way to Moon Valley, where we have 20 minutes to explore the site... And yes, that comes with some constraints... We’re back at 1 PM at the square, where we take the opportunity to have lunch at a super local spot, surrounded by Bolivians in white collars on their lunch break.

Sopocachi, the business district

Moon Valley

In the afternoon, we head back to Sol Andino for a bit of rest, and then we’re off again to explore the heights of the city. A fifteen-minute walk through the shopping streets brings us to Central Taypi Uta, the starting point of the red cable car line that effortlessly takes us up to El Alto: clever! I highly recommend the ride—it’s impressive to soar over the city by cable car, and just as impressive to find yourself at 4,100m, at the top of the megalopolis. We spend a good hour there, wandering into the village of El Alto and never tiring of admiring the city. As night falls and with the prospect of another pizza and tiramisu at Gladys’, we take the return route.

Ah, a first on our journey: rain! Yes, our first downpour in the form of two storms that crack over the city. A tip: take cover! It doesn’t last long, but the amount of water is impressive! Fortunately, we have time to wait for the skies to clear to avoid the shower...



For a moment, we could almost feel at home...

Day 10: And with Coca Mate, a little... SUGAR?

Okay, I’ll admit it, that was an easy pun, but I had to do it... Today, we’re actually heading to Sucre. We’re leaving La Paz without regrets—we know we’ll be back and aren’t chasing big cities anyway... But we’re happy with these two days of discovery; the city was worth it.

Today’s dilemma: 13 hours by bus for around 20 € per person, or a 50-minute BoA flight for 50 € per ticket?... The backpacker mode hits its limits here, and by 10 AM, we’re at the airport "The Highest in the World," the very one where runways were extended to help planes compensate for the lack of oxygen at takeoff... Well, we take off in the rain with a 1.5-hour delay—normal here...

And 50 minutes later (YES!), we arrive at Sucre’s small airport, where a shared bus drops us off in the city center for 8 BOB, or 1 €. No trouble finding our accommodation (aside from the storm!!), La Dolce Vita (20 € per night), just steps from Plaza 25 de Mayo, run by Olivier, a Frenchman who’s been living in Sucre for a long time. And *dolce vita* it is for the whole day. After La Paz, Sucre is a peaceful town where you can breathe again (we just lost 1,500 meters in altitude!) and it’s human-sized.

Following our host’s great tips, we let ourselves wander through the city center, taste the local specialty (fried chorizo—3,000 calories each!) at a little eatery, and visit the market, a true mosaic of colors and smells...







We also stop by our second laundromat—the stock of T-shirts is dwindling... That evening, we’re craving meat, so we head to a well-known *churrasquería* where I devour a huge beef fillet grilled right in front of us...



Then we stroll back to the main square, serenaded by Christmas carols and the scent of homemade whipped cream—but we resist!!



Health warning at red alert!!

Hey,

Your travel journal is really nice. It brings back quite a few memories. Looks like we stayed in the same hotels... 😛

No time to dawdle, the day will be long since it’s dedicated to the only activity in the area: Isla del Sol!

Too bad you didn’t have more time! 🙁 This area is packed with some great hikes that are way less touristy than Isla del Sol. Can’t wait for the next part! 😉

Cheers,

Thanks Cédric for the comment—it’s really nice of you to take the time!

As I often say, choosing means missing out... But you’re right, I should’ve said “the most popular” activity in the area... I missed your travel journal, written while I was over there, but I’ll dive into it as soon as I get five minutes... Same for the rest, I’ll get to it as soon as I can!! Cheers.

Hi Bruno, Thanks for this amazing travel journal, tireless traveler—I’m a huge fan of these South and Central American countries. I’ve been visiting them for over 20 years, but what saddens me is how quickly they’re changing, slowly losing their authenticity... Bolivia still feels purer and more genuine than Peru to me, which is a shame. The democratization of transport is probably the reason, and that’s great for those with tighter budgets. I’m heading back at the end of April for an adventure in both countries, trying to uncover places I haven’t yet had the chance to explore—there’s still so much to marvel at when you immerse yourself in this magical world and blend in with these warm, welcoming people. Looking forward to the next part—you’ve got us hooked! And bravo for sharing your experiences like this! Best,

Hello, Huge thanks for this amazing travel journal—we’ll be keeping it instead of the Routard guide! 🙂 We’re heading off on our own adventure to these two countries for the first time after Semana Santa (late April), and we’ll be there for 6 weeks. We’ll be taking more buses/coaches than planes. We can’t wait for the rest of your story, and thanks for sharing your experiences so vividly! Cheers, perdant

Hi Julio. A quick stop here to thank you for your message—it’s really encouraging for me! I agree with you; I also found Bolivia more authentic, but that’s partly because it’s less "visited" than Peru. The democratization of transportation, as you mentioned, is something I experience and enjoy with every trip (like all of us). And every time I buy tickets to the other side of the world, I can’t help but think about how lucky we are to be able to get these fares at "affordable" prices, whereas for our parents (and I’m not even talking about our grandparents...) it was simply impossible... More to come as soon as I have a little time... Cheers.

Hi Perdant (you’ll have to explain that username to me 🤪) Still, bring your GDR—ours came in really handy... Of course, buses will let you cut travel costs over 6 weeks. We opted for flights on this first trip to the region since time was tight... More to come as soon as I find the time, and thanks for the encouragement!

Day 11: A Second SUCRE?

And we’re happily diving back into another day in Sucre... But today, big decision: We’d planned to spend a second night in Sucre and head to Tupiza, our next stop, the following day by daytime bus. Change of plans—we’re taking the overnight bus and leaving the same evening.

So the day starts with a trip to the bus terminal to make sure two Cama seats (luxury seats, can’t skimp on comfort!) are available for the evening bus. Few companies offer a direct transfer to Potosí (no guarantee we’ll make it all the way...), and we snag the last two seats with "6 de Octubre" for 260 BOB (36 €). Departure at 7 PM, expected arrival at 4 AM in Tupiza. We email our host to let them know we’ll be arriving late (or early?), but no worries—they’re used to it...

The rest of the day is dedicated to exploring Sucre, starting, of course, with the main square: the Cathedral and, most importantly, the Casa de la Libertad, a colonial palace celebrating the spot where Bolivia’s independence was signed (1825, for the history buffs). We head back to the Mercado Central (we love it!) and then take a microbus up to La Recoleta. Microbuses are Sucre’s go-to transport—you hop on and off as needed for just 1.5 BOB (0.20 €!) per ride.

Cathedral

Casa de la Libertad



La Recoleta is a high point in Sucre, home to a convent and church. But we’re really drawn to the Mirador, which offers a panoramic view of the city (as you’d expect!). And that’s where we get trapped—we end up having lunch at the Café Gourmet Mirador. Nestled in a lush little garden with a stunning terrace and sun loungers, it serves simple, fresh food that delights our taste buds. Lunch stretches into a two-hour affair (nap included), and we really struggle to leave this sunny haven of peace...

Plaza de la Recoleta and the convent

The scene of our lazy sin

Refreshed from our rest, we start the walk downhill, make our way to Plaza de Mayo, and reach Parque Bolívar just a stone’s throw away. Facing the majestic Palace of Justice, this park is a family hotspot—kids playing, parents indulging in ice cream and sweets. No kids with us, but we don’t break the tradition!!!





Spotted at the market—admit it, you’d have caved too...

Back to the city center to pick up our clean laundry, then to Olivier’s to grab our bags. Another microbus ride—this one a bit of a challenge with the crowd and our bags—to get back to the bus terminal and our ride. Cama seats confirmed, we’re in the lower section of the bus, and we leave on time! Off to Tupiza and the next chapter of our trip!

Day 12: Tupiza, here we come!!

We arrive in this remote town super early—at 4 AM, we grab our bags after a smooth journey. I’d booked at Hostal los Salares, a bit outside the city, mainly because they’re the ones taking us on a four-day trip to the South Lipez. After tons of emails to secure a full 4x4 and get good rates and services, we decided to go with them. The taxi at the station exit mistakes us for Americans and demands an outrageous price to drop us at the hotel, so we end up walking, flashlight in hand, and reach our hostel in 15 minutes (I’d downloaded the route beforehand). We wake up our host, who shows us to our room (double with private bathroom and breakfast for 20 €) without much fuss, but all we want is to finish our night!!!

Today is a transition day before "the" big departure. First, we need to load up on bolivianos to pay for our tour, then do some shopping to complete the trip (toilet paper and New Year’s Eve aren’t included in the tour). We visit no fewer than three ATMs before finding the right one, but it gives us a chance to explore the city... A small park in the center, nothing more... With little to hold our interest in town, we opt for a 3-hour horseback ride organized by our hosts through the surrounding canyons. <> A way to get to know each other!



The owner’s daughter takes us along the railway tracks to meet the gaucho on horseback and our future jeep co-passenger. That’s when we meet Cathy, an explosive Niçoise (from Nice), a biology teacher at the French high school in... Bogotá!! Turns out, instead of Colombians, we’ll be doing the South Lipez and Uyuni with these two French women, Eve and Cathy, and we hit it off right away!!!

Off we go for three hours of horseback riding through the Tupizian countryside. Well, more like the Wild West— the colors and atmosphere remind us so much of the American West! Cathy has her hands full with her mount, which tends to break into sudden gallops, and we get caught in intermittent rain showers. But the ride is fun, even if the canyon gets a bit soggy...



Back to the hostel by minibus, accompanied by a very sweet Bolivian family.



We head back to town for dinner—a pizza in Tupiza, nothing special! We won’t stay up late; tomorrow, we leave at 8 AM in the 4x4!!!

But that’s for next time...

Hey Bruno, Sucre is a really pretty city, and yeah, there are quite a few *Sucre-ries* on the market that look tempting 🙂 Easy one😉

Casa de la Libertad, a colonial palace celebrating the site where Bolivia's independence was signed (in 1825, for the purists...).

A purist might point out that the Casa de la Libertad wasn’t actually a colonial palace, but part of the Manzana Jesuítica, following the block layout typical of Spanish colonial cities. You can still see this feature in Buenos Aires or Córdoba, Argentina.

What is now the Casa de la Libertad was primarily used as the Jesuit College, which later became Saint Francis Xavier University.

Many of the activists from the 1809–1810 revolutions in Chuquisaca (the former name of Sucre), La Paz, Quito, and Buenos Aires were alumni of this university—the Jesuits had been expelled earlier.

The Independence Hall was originally the chapel attached to this college.

Fabrice

And I even forgot to mention when we stopped at the "French pastry shop" for a crêpe and lemonade break!!

Thanks, Fabrice, for the details. And wow, that’s next-level!!

Just the memory of my 2009 visit, validated by rereading my travel journal and consulting the Spanish-language Wikipedia page.

Fabrice, purist, former Jesuit student 😉 (it helps)

Hey Bruno,

It’s a change from Southern Africa, but I’ll be following your journey along the foothills of Machu Picchu!