Budget to plan for the Three Passes Trek in Nepal (page 2 of 2)

Since December is the driest month in the Khumbu, I decided not to bother with my rain poncho. My Gore-Tex jacket was enough during the hail (though I had to stop at the first teashop I came across after a nasty fall on the trail caused by slipping on a small rock).

For early November, I probably would’ve taken my rain poncho, just to be safe.

Fabrice

Hi Fabrice, I think I’m gonna get myself a rain cape, haha 😄. Another question just popped into my head—are there regular water points along the way to refill my water bottle? Or should I start the day with 2L of water in my pack?

I've done the Three Passes trek twice. In autumn 2014, I never had to pay for the room—just for meals (when I asked, they’d just say "okay." You couldn’t even call it a negotiation). In spring 2017, we had to pay half, but never more than 200 rupees... Those room rates make a big difference in the budget!

You can find water easily, but you’ll need to treat it.

Hi Julien, That’s great news because my filtering water bottle only holds 750ml. I’ll still take a small extra bottle, but at least I won’t need to start each day with 2 liters of water in my pack. 😊

It's the Himalayas—water isn't something you'll lack (for now, anyway!) 😉

Generally, water is indeed quite accessible in the Khumbu region. Below Namche, there are many villages or hamlets, all at least equipped with a fountain (some dried up since the 2015 earthquake, but a new supply system was installed with a simple plastic pipe). However, above Namche Bazaar, there are far fewer villages, even though teashops are frequent along the EBC trail.

Off the EBC trail, there are a few exceptions.

For example, I don’t recall crossing any streams between Chhukhung and the Khumbu Glacier via the Kongma La. There are lakes, but that’s not my preferred water source.

Similarly, I don’t remember any streams between Pangboche and the Ama Dablam base camp. Or between Tabuche Kharka (off the beaten path) and the Khumbu Khola before Pheriche.

Additionally, at high altitudes, streams can be frozen, for example, above Gokyo toward the upper lakes. Even at my lodge in Gokyo, water supply wasn’t straightforward because all the pipes were frozen during the two days I was there. Same for Gokyo Lake. It’s tricky, especially for toilets.

Gorakshep is known for its lack of water sources, and indeed, I saw an employee breaking up a block of ice and bringing it back to his lodge.

Throughout my trek in the region, every morning, I set off with 2 x 1L bottles and a ½L bottle (easier to refill with a trickle of hard-to-reach water). I’d also hydrate well at breakfast (VG thukpa = noodle soup with vegetables).

gourde filtrante ne fait que 750ml

In my opinion, this doesn’t eliminate the need for water purification. Typically, tablets or drops (like Piyush) are recommended for 1L quantities.

Fabrice

P.S.: My 3 plastic bottles (2 x 1L + ½L) came from Paris and returned to Paris 😉

Thanks for your replies. Just FYI, I already tried the filtering water bottle on the Annapurna Circuit two years ago and had no issues at all 😊. But I’ll still bring a few purification tablets just in case.

Hi there,

I’m sorry, but I don’t think I fully understand this threshold rate for the room. Could you recommend a webpage where I can find this info?

- Basically, does this mean we have to pay for the room (for 2 people) each time—either 500 or 700 Rs—and then add the cost of meals on top?

- Does this mean there’s no way to negotiate anymore?

Also, is it possible to cook our own food in the lodges (with our own stove)?

It's the Himalayas—water isn't exactly scarce (for now!)

😏

Does this basically mean we have to pay for the room (for 2 people) each time, either 500 or 700 Rs, and then add the meal costs?

Yes, that’s exactly it. And menu prices haven’t been lowered at all.

What’s more, if you’re a solo trekker like I was, you’re charged the full room price, which adds a hefty extra cost.

I was ready—and even eager—to share a room, but at the end of the season, there weren’t many takers. Don’t count on the hotel owner to play matchmaker; you’ll have to find a roommate yourself, which I managed for my first night in Chhukhung and the one in Lobuche. Only two nights, though.

Does this mean there’s no way to negotiate anymore?

At the end of the season, early December 2018, I *did* manage to negotiate a few times, usually by being *very* persistent. I wasn’t asking for freebies—just to pay for one bed, agreeing to share the room if needed. But most lodge owners flat-out refused.

Here’s what you should know about peak season: - There are checkpoints set up at strategic spots controlling access to higher areas (e.g., Shomare for Pheriche and Dingboche), where young staff enforce the room fee for every trekker in exchange for an official voucher from the Khumbu lodge owners’ association. - In the evenings, the same staff come around to check that every guest has a voucher. If not, they collect the room fee on the spot. The atmosphere got pretty heated, and apparently, things escalated in October/November 2018.

When this practice was reported on TripAdvisor in early November 2018, most experienced forum users assumed it was a new scam targeting novice trekkers... implying they’d never fall for it. But a young Sherpa lodge owner in Dingboche confirmed that the local government had initiated this system, and there were inter-professional meetings to evaluate and adjust it.

I’d noticed a similar price-fixing agreement at Machhapuchare Base Camp in late November 2017, maybe even in the previous hamlet. In 2017, the local government tried to extend this agreement to all accommodations on the ABC trek but had to backtrack after protests from trekking agencies worried about losing customers. But in the Khumbu, overcrowding is so bad that lodge owners aren’t afraid of losing business.

Of the money collected, half goes to the lodges where guests stay (identified during the evening voucher checks), and the other half is kept centrally—partly to fund the collection and control system.

In early December 2018, I didn’t see those staff operating, probably because there weren’t enough trekkers left to justify keeping the system in place.

Also, after Namche Bazar, I always avoided the classic EBC trail: - Stayed in Phortse before sleeping in Upper Pangboche. - Walked to Tabuche Kharka, then continued to Pheriche/Dingboche—so I didn’t pass through Shomare. - Then carried on via the Three Passes. That was my plan to escape the overcrowding on the EBC trek.

By the way, is it possible to cook your own food in the lodges (with our own stove)?

Typically in Nepal, if you cook your own meals, the room price skyrockets—like 2000 Rs or more. I’ve seen it explicitly stated on menus.

Fabrice

Thanks so much for this detailed answer!

And by the way, is it possible to cook your own food in the lodges (with our own stove?)

Typically in Nepal, if you cook your own meals, the room price is heavily increased. Like 2000 Rs and up. I’ve seen it explicitly mentioned on menus.

Fabrice

So, I was thinking that this threshold price might still be good news for those who don’t mind carrying their own food for the whole trek! Like paying 500 Rs but "saving" on meal costs... My daydream only lasted 5 minutes!

Good news for those who don’t mind carrying their own food for the entire trek!

As of now, fully independent trekking is still possible in the Khumbu region, and no guide is mandatory (except in the Bothe Kosi Valley toward Nangpa La, as it’s a restricted-access zone upstream from Lungden).

However, some Nepalis are envious of Bhutan’s policy requiring tourists to spend a minimum of $100/day. Such a premium-niche strategy is unrealistic for Nepal as a whole, since it caters to mass tourism (even if not on the same scale as beach tourism in some countries). The increase in daily spending per tourist wouldn’t offset the sharp drop in visitor numbers.

That said, a premium strategy *could* work in limited, easily controlled geographic zones. In a way, this is already the case for Upper Mustang and Upper Dolpo (with a $50/day permit). I’ve met several Sherpas who want a Bhutan-style policy for the Khumbu. Since the 2017 decentralization law, the local Khumbu government might have the authority to implement it—just as they already collect the local 2,000 Rs tax that replaced the TIMS.

Plus, it would help manage overcrowding at peak season.

Fabrice

P.S.: Between Thame and Namche Bazar, I saw an ad for wealth management and tax optimization consulting. Makes sense—the Khumbu has the highest per capita income in all of Nepal.

This is absolutely not the Nepalese government's goal—they're planning for 500,000 visitors a year in the Khumbu, 10 times more than today, mainly thanks to the new road to Lukla, which will bring lots of Nepalese and Indian tourists by 4x4 and motorbike.

In the context of a newly federal state, this will be an interesting debate to follow between the local level and central authority.

500,000 visitors a year is going to "slightly" clog the trail to Namche Bazaar. Enough to revive the direct cable car project.

Not very comforting for mountain lovers who used to wander peacefully there... off-season.

Beyond Namche Bazaar, the price of overnight stays will still filter out a good portion of Indians and Nepalis. Unless they introduce a SAARC tariff.

Fabrice

Some trekkers post the menus from the lodges where they stayed.

For example, check out the prices charged in Nov 2018 on the Gokyo trek at https://thewanderingspot.com/gokyo-menus/.

It also gives you an idea of the variety of dishes on offer.

Fabrice

If it might interest you, there’s a ton of info on the Three Passes Trek on this blog: https://backpackerdudimanche.com/trek-3-cols-three-passes-trek-nepal/