Six-week trip to Mexico (page 2 of 12)

San Miguel de Allende - 2

This influx of Americans had almost ruined our little breakfast under the arches of the main square (coffee + huevos rancheros for 200 pesos). A few minutes wandering around the center and we’re back in good spirits. The colors red, ochre, and pink dominate, the streets are covered in cobblestones or large flat stones. Spotless cleanliness, as always. Around noon, we ate two dishes with half a liter of fresh orange juice at a snack bar on Collegio Street, right next to Plaza de la Soledad (150 pesos).

Speaking of Americans, we got in touch with some friends who are also American and live in San Miguel. Not all Americans are unbearable, of course! Our friends arranged to meet us in the evening on the Rosewood’s terrace. It’s a "classy" hotel located a bit outside the city center, which, given San Miguel’s size, is really only about a ten-minute walk from the main square. Since we had plenty of time, we took a little detour through Benito Juárez Park. A very pleasant spot, shaded and wooded, where people come to play, jog, picnic, sit on a bench ("thousands of them…", remember?), read a book, etc.

I recommend checking out the Rosewood—it’s a magnificent building with an original architecture I’d describe as Italian-inspired. Inside, a large circular hall features several high-quality works of art that are worth the detour. It’s almost like a museum! That’s where our friends were waiting for us.

There were a lot of people on the terrace ("rooftop"), but we found a good spot. After the usual small talk, we went to take some photos because the view was simply stunning. The warm colors of late afternoon, the red-tiled roofs, the pine trees piercing the greenery, the churches standing out in the background—it all felt very Mediterranean. Again, Italy came to mind.

Our friends took us to another "cantina", El Manantial, at the corner of Huertas and El Chorro. It would’ve only taken 10 minutes to walk there, but our friends insisted on taking a taxi (they *are* American, after all!). We tried one of the house specialties, ginger margaritas. Not bad, but Y and I agreed: we prefer classic margaritas. Since we’d only nibbled on appetizers at the Rosewood’s terrace, we ordered food. For four people, the bill came to the highest amount we’d seen during our six weeks in Mexico: 800 pesos (40 €). But that was for four.

The next day, following our friends’ advice, we took a local bus, a "camión", on Calzada de la Luz, at the end of Calle Relox. Destination: Atotonilco, about twenty kilometers away. It’s a village of fewer than a thousand people, famous for its church (and what else, we’re in Mexico!). The Santuario de Jesús Nazareno is a UNESCO World Heritage Site for its Baroque architecture and decoration (dating back to the 18th century). For Mexicans, it’s also a spiritual landmark: during Mexico’s War of Independence, Father Miguel Hidalgo took up the banner of the Virgin of Guadalupe to lead the insurgent army.

It’s nice, but we were a little disappointed by the naivety of the interior after all the wonders we’d seen in Querétaro and San Miguel. From the outside, it looks very "Mexican": bright sun, white and ochre colors, paved road… Oh, and public benches, of course!

Our American friends had raved about the charms of a spa just outside Atotonilco. "10 minutes on foot," the nuns running the café next to the church told us. It took us more than half an hour to reach Escondido Place under a sun that was gradually becoming relentless. We hugged the walls where there was a bit of vegetation. Still, it was pretty at times—check out these beautiful religious statues framed by tall cacti we came across along the way.

Entry to Escondido Place was 150 pesos each. Not cheap. Plus, we had to buy swimsuits. Not much choice in a tiny shop, and that’s how we ended up spending 1,000 pesos, even after a little haggling. We weren’t too tempted by the pool—the place was nice, but the water looked cold. And Y is really sensitive to the cold (she’s Thai). No problem, though—there were these "caves" with very hot water, naturally heated, if I understood correctly. The caves weren’t natural, though; they were built. Bare brick walls and vaults—it was quite pretty. We were almost alone enjoying the place. At the back, the water gushed out hot and in powerful jets. It was bliss to stand right in front and let it hit your face—like an intense massage. There was enough space to take a few strokes.

On the way back, which we were a little nervous about—it was almost 2 km and very hot—we were lucky enough to get a ride in a pickup truck. The driver must’ve been surprised when he realized we were foreigners! But it’s just one example among many of how kind the locals are.

In the "downtown" of Atotonilco (see the JPEG below), we had to wait a good half-hour for the "camión" that would take us back to San Miguel. We made a farmer’s day by buying his fruit. We paid 20 pesos for two delicious avocados—"there are millions of avocados in Mexico"—and 15 pesos for something weird but tasty called "camaca" if I remember correctly.

The "camión" literally took the scenic route back to San Miguel. There must’ve been about twenty teenagers on the bus, fresh out of school. The people’s features clearly showed the importance of indigena blood in the countryside. We passed through small roads in a few villages. The rural setting reminded me of Isaan, Y’s province in Thailand.

At the end of the day, we had a great meal at Café de la Parroquia. The place was nice, the service friendly, the food good, and the margaritas excellent. Y was happy—you can tell from the photo (though I’ve blurred her face for privacy). Out of our entire trip in Mexico, this was where we had our best margaritas. The ones at the "cantina 21 Única"—just a stone’s throw from Café de la Parroquia—were also fantastic.

Thanks for this really interesting episode! I have to admit I’m always eagerly waiting for the next one...😎

Morelia 1

We take a local bus early in the morning on Calzada de la Luz to get to the bus terminal. Cost of the trip: 32 pesos for two, and as a bonus, the chance to get our backsides and spines massaged in a rickety bus. 🏴‍☠️ At the terminal, we buy our tickets to Morelia: 335 pesos per person for 170 km, with Primera Plus. Two departures a day: 7:30 and 19:30.

There are 2 or 3 fairly large lakes along the way, between what seem to be volcanoes. These lakes are certainly shallow since the road crosses them instead of going around. Maybe Mexico City and Tlaxcal-Puebla looked like this before becoming overpopulated? Morelia has roughly 1 million inhabitants and is the capital of the state of Michoacán. The historic city center is on a hill in the middle of a large valley. You can see the mountains all around.

After dropping off our meager luggage at the hotel, we head to the Plaza de Armas for lunch. We sit on the terrace of a restaurant with a park in front of us and the great Morelia Cathedral right behind. It’s on this kind of square that you almost always find decent restaurants and cafés in a Mexican city. Everyone around us clearly belongs to the city’s bourgeois class and are all white. This contrasts with all the street vendors, musicians, and other public entertainers who constantly pass by trying to make a little money—almost all of them darker-skinned and without a doubt mestizos or even indígenas of pure descent.

What I’m saying won’t surprise those who’ve traveled in Latin America. This social divide along physiological lines is something we also noticed in Colombia last year. A Spaniard we met later at a bus terminal (it was in Tuxtla) explained to me that no, of course, I’m not a gringo, but rather a « güero » or « güerito ». That’s how light-skinned people are referred to in Mexico. I’m not sure if gringos are also considered güeros; I don’t think so.

All these people trying to make money in public squares in Mexico can get a bit tiresome. Alright, you saw this coming:

« In Mexico, there are thousands of street vendors and people begging ».

Not far from the Plaza de Armas, the Mercado de Dulces y Artesanías is an interesting place to visit. Morelia seems, among other things, proud of its fruit pastes, and we don’t miss the chance to taste and buy some (Y is particularly fond of those made with tamarind). 😛 And we arrive at the Jardín de Las Rosas. It’s cute but not very big—we walk around it in just a few minutes. What we quickly notice on this tiny square is the statue of Cervantes. The commemorative plaque is dated 1947. It’s informative: « By creating the madness of Don Quixote of La Mancha, Cervantes forged the eternal monument of Hispanic genius. Castilian and very noble Morelia pays tribute, in this 4th century since its founding, to the eternal greatness of the soldier of Lepanto».

This quote opens several avenues for reflection. First, it’s remarkable that the city of Morelia so openly displays its "Castilian" pedigree. Doesn’t that feel a bit too Spanish and, dare I say, "conquistador"? Completely ignoring the conquered indígenas. Not even mentioning the 150,000 Purépechas in the state of Michoacán… It might be commonplace to say this nowadays, but personally, I feel a deep connection to all these peoples we Westerners have crushed. I know, I know, I might be falling into the well-known trap of the "noble savage" myth, but I can’t help finding a lot of beauty in these peoples (I’m attaching a JPEG of Purépechas I found on Wikipedia). And without a doubt, they were far from "savages"!

Second, I’ve often wondered what was so extraordinary about the story of Don Quixote. Now I’m starting to understand better. And at the same time, I’m beginning to grasp what lies at the heart of Spanish culture. You have to go to Latin America to better understand Spain…

Third, of Cervantes’ entire life—and apart from his literary work—Morelia mentions his presence as a soldier at the Battle of Lepanto. The Battle of the Holy League, Catholic of course, to block the expansion of the Ottomans, the Muslim enemies (that was certainly the spirit of the time). Morelia, like all of Mexico, is Catholic par excellence. You don’t see that much in Europe anymore…

Morelia 2

More than the squares, public benches, and churches, it’s the grand arches of the buildings in the city center that really catch your eye in Morelia. Almost every house has them in their inner courtyards. You can see it clearly in the two photos I borrowed from Wikipedia. And then there are the magnificent doors. I’ll share a few examples below. Gorgeous doors are practically everywhere—pure delight for enthusiasts. Come on, all together now:

« In Mexico, there are thousands of stunning wooden doors ». 😎

Otherwise, it’s a beautiful city to explore, too. Inevitably, you end up back at the cathedral square, which is very lively. Today, there’s a market there in the name of a political protest movement, the FNLS, the « Frente Nacional de Lucha por el Socialismo » (no need to translate). This movement is active in several central and southern Mexican states (Michoacán, Hidalgo, Puebla, Chiapas). A large banner proclaims loudly, « 527 years of resistance and struggle against state terrorism and for socialism ». 527 years takes us back to the « discovery » of the « New World » by Christopher Columbus (he reached the Bahamas in October 1492). So it’s clear what this movement is standing against: colonization. It’s pretty surprising to see this displayed so openly in public, knowing that this kind of political movement can often lead to armed violence. 😕 Anyway, it’s very « Latin America ».

But we’re not here to dive into local politics. We move on and enter the cathedral. It dates back to the late 17th century and is known for being the largest cathedral in the country. A beautiful building, no doubt. The interior has a relatively understated style that’s far from unpleasant.

We found a great spot for lunch that’s both delicious and cheap. It’s at the Mercado San Juan, also called Mercado Revolución, about 1 km from the cathedral. The people inside are super friendly—we chat with several vendors and shoppers. Mexicans are very open, spontaneous, and generally quite charming. The « restaurant », if you can call it that, is on the side of the market where they sell fish (duh!). We sit at a counter and have two large bowls of « caldo pescado y camarón » prepared—fish and shrimp soup (Y is a shrimp fanatic). It’s excellent, especially with the spicy sauces on the counter—just pick the right bottle. We pay 160 pesos and get the owner’s big smile as a bonus. 😎

In the afternoon, we visit the Museo de Arte Colonial. It’s free, as usual. There are hundreds of crucifixes (no, I’m not singing my little song again this time). The Mexicans really go all out in this style—you can clearly see the influence of Spanish Catholicism. It’s not exactly what excites Y the most... or me, to be honest. I do stop in front of a painting depicting the Virgin Mary, though. We walk past so many paintings without trying to understand what they represent... Here, I stumbled upon a gem because there are explanations. On the left side of the painting, the Virgin Mary reaches out to rescue a soul from the flames of Purgatory. On the other side, a kneeling angel holds a basket where the Baby Jesus places flaming hearts (oh wow...). At the top of the painting, two cherubs place a crown of precious stones on the Virgin Mary’s head. Pretty mind-blowing, right?

A little diversion cools us down after that somewhat morbid religiosity: a model of the three nutshells Christopher Columbus used for his famous voyage. The irony? He never actually came to Mexico, a place Europe had never even heard of at the time.

To cool off even more, we head to the Jardín de Las Rosas, just 200 meters away, and treat ourselves to well-deserved margaritas on one of the terraces. 😉 Two each—clears the mind. And since it’s already the end of the day, we eat there, too. All for 550 pesos.

Morelia 3

The next day, our last in Morelia, we visit the Casa de Artesanías del Estado de Michoacán. It’s right next to the Templo San Francisco, an imposing building on the square of the same name.

It’s a whole exhibition of handcrafted products from the state’s indígena communities, namely the Purépechas, Nahua, Mazahua, and Otomís. It’s impressive. Among other things, there’s a collection of figurines representing the dead. Yep, it’s everywhere—maybe because we’re getting closer to the famous « Día de los Muertos »? Besides that, there’s lots of wooden furniture, often richly colored, plenty of pottery, tableware, textiles, and I don’t even know what else—all really cool. 🙂

Everything’s for sale. We don’t check the prices, but we know that in general, things displayed so nicely in such a pleasant place are way more expensive than what you’d find in markets or shops. Still, it’s tempting. If I lived in Mexico, I’d love to furnish my place with this kind of stuff. But how do you buy anything when you’ve got to lug your luggage around for weeks, and when airlines limit your bags so much?

We were a little disappointed in the evening at Plaza Villalongin, 1 km from the cathedral. The guide (I actually used the Lonely Planet for once!) spoke highly of it. Sure, there’s a nice little park and the aqueduct avenue is well-shaded, but there aren’t many appealing spots to sit, have a drink, or grab a bite. If there are, they’re not obvious.

To be honest, we’re starting to get a bit bored. That might be putting it too strongly, but let’s just say this city isn’t as exciting for us as San Miguel, for example. No doubt, it’s a very pleasant and peaceful city, and if we had something specific to do here (like Spanish classes), we’d happily stay for a few weeks. There’s no sign of the troubles constantly talked about in Mexico. But in 3 days, we haven’t seen a single foreigner around here.

On the doorstep of our hotel, a skeleton with a giant scythe gives us a big grin, 😎 but it doesn’t stop us. Off to the bus terminal. Taxi: 70. Cookies and coffees: 60. On our way to Guanajuato!

Guanajuato 1

If you look at the map of Mexico, you might wonder why we went from San Miguel to Morelia, then from Morelia to Guanajuato, which is close to San Miguel (San Miguel is in the state of Guanajuato). Morelia was quite a detour. The thing is, we found ourselves stuck between our booking dates and the Cervantino festival in Guanajuato—a bit of a logistics issue, really.

You should know that Guanajuato is nestled among a bunch of steep hills, and because of its "tortured" topography, the bus terminal is several kilometers from the city. We were a little nervous in the taxi—where on earth was he taking us? We’d booked a place in the Pastita neighborhood (neighborhoods or districts are called "colonias" in Mexico—odd, right?). Pastita is just outside the city center proper. The taxi driver struggled to find the address but kept at it, stopping several times to ask people for directions. We finally arrived at the top of a narrow alley that might spook some folks after dark. 😕

Getting around Guanajuato can be tricky. Several streets or roads pass under or over each other. Wrong turns are guaranteed, especially at night after a few drinks! But I’ll try to guide you a bit. At one point on the main road called Sostenes Rochas, you’ll reach Del Campanero: that’s the entrance to the pedestrian zone. If you turn your back to the pedestrian zone, you’ll see a small square where the street splits off and climbs toward Pastita. There’s the Sostene Rocha café—a nice spot to sit, grab a coffee, or something stronger. Just a little further down Sostenes Rochas, you’ll find Plaza Allende with the statues of Don Quixote and Sancho Panza, right in front of the Teatro Cervantes (obviously).

Take Del Campanero street and go under the Puente Campanero (you’ll see people sitting on the bridge above your head, on the terrace of a café on another level). You’ll come out at a triangle formed by two streets branching off in front of you. At the corner, there’s the first little restaurant where we ate in Guanajuato. It was delicious. We really enjoyed the large, lightly grilled peppers. With a beer each, we got away for 320 pesos, plus a friendly chat with the owner, who raved about his sauces.

Once we were full (it was midday), we continued down the left street, which leads to the Templo de San Francisco, a bright pink church that... well, we didn’t go inside. Right next to it is the Museo Iconográfico del Quijote. Another statue of Don Quixote: a photo stop is a must.

Two hundred meters further, you’ll reach the Jardín de la Unión. It might be the center of the city, though that’s debated—this city is so twisted. Before going further, we turned left along the Teatro Juarez (there’s a small market where I bought a hat for 150 pesos) and arrived at the funicular, which took us to the top of a hill where the Pípila monument stands. At the funicular exit, several shops await, offering all the best of local crafts. I already had a hat, thanks! But of course, Y fell in love with the silver jewelry! Long story short: a few moments later, Y was showing off a pretty silver bracelet... and our wallet was lighter by about 1000 pesos. Oh well, it’s not every day!

On the monument square, there were lots of people—mostly Mexican tourists, but also a few foreigners: Japanese, Americans, and some Europeans. The views of the city surrounded by hills were amazing. 😎

Guanajuato 2

Guanajuato unfortunately made international news due to the deaths of 12 police officers in the span of a week. 🏴‍☠️ It’s well known that there are extremely violent criminal gangs in Mexico. But the truth is, it’s not as dangerous a country as many people say. What foreign visitor would think of spending a few days in Culiacán, in the state of Sinaloa, where El Chapo’s cartel seems to rule? You might say, "Yes, but that happened in Guanajuato, a major tourist spot!" True, but let’s clarify: most of these recent disturbances took place in the state of Guanajuato, not in the city of Guanajuato itself.

And ultimately, even if—what’s the risk of getting caught in the middle of a shootout between police or the military on one side and cartels on the other? Mexico sees nearly 40 million foreign visitors a year—far more than Thailand, for example. And how many foreigners end up in a bad situation, like a shootout or kidnapping?

In the end… There’s no "end of the story" because everyone can play with statistics, and everyone will interpret them based on their own travel philosophy. For me, I figure I’m just as likely to get mugged in Paris as in Mexico. Mexico is huge, and I don’t see why I’d go to Culiacán or near the U.S. border, areas known to be dangerous.

Back to Guanajuato. It’s a stunning city where you make interesting discoveries around every corner. 😎 Just look at the photos I’ve attached. When we arrived at the Jardín de la Unión, we noticed, for example, this huge intriguing statue standing between the Iglesia de San Diego and the Teatro Juarez. Some will love it, others won’t.

I don’t have a photo of the Jardín de la Unión itself. Probably because I was too caught up in everything happening in this space, which is actually quite small: fountains and public benches (!), mariachi groups playing their ballads for customers sitting at café and restaurant terraces, vendors of all kinds, and so on. It’s very lively. No doubt even more so than usual since the Cervantino Festival is in full swing.

Next time, I’ll talk a bit more about the festival and explore Guanajuato further, beyond the extraordinary basilica of Nuestra Señora de Guanajuato.

Guanajuato 3

The Basilica of Nuestra Señora de Guanajuato is an absolute must-see. Built toward the end of the 17th century, it’s a relatively restrained example of Mexican Baroque. The statue of the Virgin, a gift from King Carlos I, actually dates back to the 16th century. I’ll say no more—I’ll let you judge from the photos.

To wrap up the churches, basilicas, cathedrals, etc. (at least for now), I have to share a few photos of the Temple of the Society of Jesus, right next to the university and just 200 meters behind the main artery where the Basilica of Nuestra Señora de Guanajuato is located. More recent (late 18th century), it’s said to be in the neoclassical style. I’m struck (!) by the depiction of the flagellated Christ. The Hispanic morbidity, isn’t it... yet it’s still magnificent.

The main artery—really just a slightly wider street—leads from the Jardín de la Unión and opens up at the basilica. That’s where Avenida Benito Juárez begins. In the late afternoon, it’s crowded. We had a few decent margaritas on one of the terraces. Further along, after a few twists in the avenue (Guanajuato really has a tortured topography), we found a cantina that felt more down-to-earth than the ones we’d “tested” in San Miguel. I think it’s just past the Mercado Hidalgo. “Los Barrilitos”: it was immediately a humbler Mexico. A dusty bar with a trough running along it where, someone explained, people used to piss back in the day. But these days, you go to a corner of the cantina to relieve yourself—it’s men-only. You’re barely separated from the room by a low wall. I’d seen this setup several times in Colombia. There were only men, by the way. You could’ve sworn you were in a Western, with the rough-looking, tough customers. Not at all! The people were really friendly. Surprisingly, after several Mexican songs, the jukebox played an Abba track! Well, you’ve got to come to Mexico to see that!

In this neighborhood, there are several hotels that might be worth trying next time. Still well-located in the city center, decent-looking, and probably cheaper than what you’d find in the fancier downtown areas.

Two nights in a row, we wandered around Plaza de San Fernando. It’s our favorite spot in Guanajuato. Really nice, with restaurants all around the square, lively terraces, and everything. There were shows every night as part of the Cervantino Festival. One performance I really liked: on either side of the stage, a Spanish singer and guitarist doing flamenco, contrasting with a folk group from the state of Guerrero. The steps of the Mexican dancers, a man and a woman, clearly echoed flamenco style, though much simpler... but the heel strikes were there! I regret not taking more photos.

On our way back to our lodging late in the evening, Don Quixote and Sancho Panza bid us farewell one last time: Guanajuato, even more than Morelia, is a city dedicated to Cervantes!

Interlude: The Saints

My story might be a bit dry in places and may have discouraged readers, judging by the lack of interaction. So, I’ll take a break before continuing with Mexico City, the capital, and talk about something else. After visiting all these churches so far, you start to get the impression that Catholicism plays a big role in the lives of Mexicans. There’s always someone there praying or reflecting.

But who exactly are they praying to? To God, Jesus, and the Virgin Mary, of course (have you ever noticed that no one ever prays to the Holy Spirit?). But also to a whole bunch of saints—and let me tell you, if you ever find yourself in a tough spot, facing a particularly difficult situation, feeling lost and not knowing which saint to turn to, don’t despair! Mexicans are here to help because they’ll know exactly which saint to call on. They’ve got a whole lineup they can "consult" when needed. Here’s a little list that might come in handy someday:

San Judas Tadeo, for hopeless cases San Ramón Nonato, prayed to for protection against gossip San Pafnucio, to find lost or stolen items, and to save women who’ve gone astray Santa Úrsula, patron saint of little girls Santa Alodia, patron saint of suffering and abused children Santo Antonio de Padua, patron of lost people and also protector of women looking to get married San Rafael Arcángel, patron of roads, drivers, and travelers San Gerardo Mayela, patron of homemakers San Pascual Bailón, patron of homemakers San Francisco de Asís, patron of animals (including pets) Santo Niño de Atocha, who delivers us from violence and danger San Juan Soldado, only known in northern Mexico, near the U.S. border, protector of undocumented immigrants. Fitting for his specialty, this saint is himself "unofficial," if you will, since he’s not officially recognized by Rome. The Vatican should send a delegation to investigate around Tijuana or El Paso one day...

Also worth mentioning is the cult of the Virgen de Guadalupe, to whom women offer their hair as a sign of devotion.

If you can’t find the right saint for your particular situation in this little list, all that’s left is to book a flight to Mexico and ask the locals for advice. They’re so kind—they’ll definitely help you out since they seem well-prepared for this sort of thing! And if you’re unlucky with the church, you could always turn to the "brujos" (witch doctors)—some are said to be quite good.

Good evening,

My account is probably dry in places and may have discouraged readers, judging by the lack of interaction.

No, I’ve been following it from the start and was patiently waiting for the end to respond. I’m even more interested because your itinerary is more or less similar to my plan for an upcoming trip to Mexico, but in a maximum of four weeks. Initially, like you, I’m considering the colonial cities north of Mexico City, maybe as far as Zacatecas, then a flight to Chiapas OR Oaxaca. But I feel Oaxaca might be more interesting. What were your impressions on that?

That spiritual escapade to the Patron Saints was fascinating. I think some of them, stemming from syncretism with indigenous religions, aren’t recognized by the Vatican. In Bolivia, we noticed a multitude of Virgin cults: the Virgen of this, the Virgen of that—every little town seems to have its own Virgen. It’s amazing, this kind of syncretism between the ancient Incan gods and Catholicism.

As for the Holy Spirit, don’t be mistaken—it’s invoked in many prayers.

Thanks for sharing! 🙂

No worries, Georges! I’m following along ...diligently. My trip starts on February 8th in Mexico City. Same itinerary. Thanks for all the tips and varied stories!

No worries, Georges! I’m following along ...diligently. My trip starts on February 8th in Mexico City. Same itinerary. Thanks for all the info and varied stories!

Hi Martine,

Thanks for reaching out. Wishing you an amazing trip!

Good evening,

My account may be a bit dry in places and has discouraged readers, judging by the lack of interaction.

No, I’ve been following it from the start and was patiently waiting for the end to react. I’m following it with even more interest since your itinerary is more or less similar to my plan for an upcoming trip to Mexico, but in a maximum of four weeks. Initially, like you, I was thinking of the colonial cities north of Mexico City, maybe as far as Zacatecas, then a flight to Chiapas OR Oaxaca. But I have a feeling Oaxaca is more interesting. What were your impressions on that?

Interesting, this spiritual escapade to the Patron Saints. I believe some of them, stemming from syncretism with indigenous religions, aren’t recognized by the Vatican. In Bolivia, we noticed a multitude of cults dedicated to the Virgin: the Virgen of this, the Virgen of that—every little town seems to have its own Virgen. Fascinating, this kind of syncretism between the ancient Incan gods and Catholicism.

As for the Holy Spirit, don’t be mistaken—it’s invoked in many prayers.

Thanks for sharing. 🙂

Hello Michel and Chantal,

Nice to know you’re listening!

Four weeks for the colonial cities—just a few since there are so many—and either Chiapas or Oaxaca is doable, but it’ll be a bit of a rush with frequent moves. I think staying 2 nights in a place is okay now and then, but it shouldn’t be the rule or it gets tiring. 3 nights is more relaxing. Plus, there are places where it’s really a shame not to spend more time, like Oaxaca or Mexico City. So, four weeks is good, but you have to make choices—you can’t see everything.

Looking ahead to the rest of my story, we (Y and I) really liked San Cristobal de las Casas, but especially Oaxaca, which is worth 4 days or more. We spent 3 nights in Palenque, and that was too much. The town has absolutely no interest—it’s a recent city that only exists because the ruins were "discovered." Palenque is only worth visiting for the ruins. At most, one night would’ve been enough: after visiting the ruins the next morning, we could’ve taken the minibus to San Cristobal in the afternoon, stopping by the waterfalls (Misool Ha and Agua Azul). We also could’ve spent one less night in Morelia.

Regarding the religious questions, the cult of the Virgin is obviously prominent in these deeply Catholic Latin American countries. The Virgin of Guadalupe is perhaps the flagship, if I may say so, of Mexican Catholicism. She allegedly appeared to an indigenous Mexican in 1531. The Basilica of Our Lady of Guadalupe in Mexico City is supposedly the most visited Catholic place of devotion in the world after the Vatican—that says it all.

The list of saints I mentioned earlier comes from the Mexican novel "Santitos." The author, María Amparo Escandón, tackles the subject with a lot of humor, quite dryly. Like the story of the "illegal" saint San Juan Soldado.

I have no intention of imposing my views, but coming from a Catholic background, I don’t recall any prayers addressed to the Holy Spirit. As far as I know, there’s no mention of such prayers in the Scriptures. Since I’m quite curious, I looked it up online and found, for example, these lines: "These passages show the role of the Holy Spirit in praise or prayer. We don’t address Him directly, but it’s through Him that we speak to God or the Lord Jesus." https://www.bibliquest.net/JAM/JAM-Prier_Saint_Esprit.htm

I hope I won’t be criticized for spending time on these questions. But visiting Latin America while ignoring Catholicism means missing out on a lot. I’ll say it again—I have no intention of proselytizing. I’d say the same if I were talking about visiting Muslim or Buddhist countries.

As a Protestant, I have no interest in Catholic churches, and the Mexico of the Spanish conquest—which I detest—doesn’t appeal to me either. I’m going for the MAYAS and what remains of their culture

Thanks for this travel journal on the colonial cities—it’s a refreshing change from the often-visited Yucatan! 🙂

As a Protestant, I have no attraction to Catholic churches, and the Mexico of the Spanish conquest, which I detest, doesn’t appeal to me either. I’m going for the MAYAS and what remains of their culture.

Hello Marie Françoise,

Like you—and I think like many others—I regret all the destruction caused by Spanish colonialism (and not just that), and I feel a pang of nostalgia when thinking about all those cultures that were crushed, if not wiped out. That said, what followed, specifically what came after the Spanish conquest, also has its own cultural and artistic interest.

Otherwise, I’d say we should also boycott the Taj Mahal since it’s the ultimate expression of Indo-Persian art that followed the brutal conquest of much of India by the Mughals. The Mughals were Muslim and destroyed countless Hindu temples and monuments.

This would make a great topic for reflection to post in the Travelers’ Thoughts and Reflections section.

As for not appreciating Catholic churches because you’re Protestant, fair enough—that’s a personal viewpoint. All I can say is that I appreciate beautiful mosques just as much, especially those in the Persian style (Iran, Afghanistan, India), as well as the extraordinary mosque in Córdoba, Spain—or Hindu temples—even though I’m Christian by background (having moved beyond strict religious labels).

Also, my partner, who is Buddhist and has no preference for one Christian denomination over another, really enjoyed all the churches in Mexico.

Thanks for this travel journal on the colonial cities—it’s refreshingly different from the Yucatán, which is so often visited. 🙂

You’re welcome, Anne-Claire

I admit your travel journal is really well done and stands out. Happy holidays to you!

Mexico City CDMX 1

The bus from Guanajuato to Mexico City, the capital, leaves at 09:40 and arrives at 15:15 with Primera Plus (the schedules are generally respected to within a few minutes) and cost us 1360 pesos for two. From the bus terminal in Mexico City, we take a taxi that costs us 120 pesos. In bus terminals, you often find a kiosk where you can take a "secure" taxi at a fixed price (you pay at the kiosk). 120 pesos is 6 euros, which for a ride of a good hour is really cheap.

Here we are at the hotel, in the historic center. Simple but clean. We eat on the spot (220 pesos) then go for a walk. The historic center is "user friendly" (the recommended French translation "convivial" doesn’t quite capture the English expression), you can easily walk around the streets. Naturally, we start with a little reconnaissance tour toward the large central square, the Plaza de la Constitución or more simply the Zócalo. The term "zócalo," which refers to the central square in several Mexican cities, comes from the fact that in the 19th century, they wanted to erect a monument in the middle of this large square, but for economic reasons, the monument was never completed, leaving only... a large square, the base of the monument: "base" = "zócalo." It’s on this square that you’ll find the famous Mexico City Cathedral and right next to it, the ruins and museum of the Templo Mayor.

It’s drizzling and chilly, which isn’t surprising since the city is at over 2200 meters altitude. We take refuge with two margaritas each on a terrace somewhere between the Zócalo and the large park of Alameda Central. It was a promotion—2 margaritas for 100 pesos—and they weren’t good. She’s not shy. She gets up and goes to the counter to ask for an extra shot of tequila. She’s far from an alcoholic, but she doesn’t appreciate it when they skimp on the booze when she’s having a drink!

In the evening, we find a spot at the end of the hotel bar’s counter. There are only Mexicans in the bar, and only men. It’s a popular vibe—exactly what we need. To forget the mediocre margaritas from the afternoon, we order two more. These ones are excellent and (hic!) well-poured. The bartender is generous, or maybe he just took a liking to us right away! We eat a dish, still at the counter. It’s good. All in all, 300 pesos—no complaints. We’ll be back to the hotel bar; it’s a friendly spot. When we’re not chatting with the neighbors, there’s even stuff to read. The popular magazines on the counter fit the place perfectly—judge for yourselves: a cocktail (hic!) of racy photos and gory reports that remind us we’re in Mexico, in case we’d forgotten...

Mexico CDMX 2

The next day, we return to the Zócalo, but this time we go inside the cathedral. It’s a massive building, supposedly designed after the concept of Seville Cathedral but even larger. Having covered enough about religious buildings, I’ll just share a few photos and let you enjoy them… or skip ahead if you’ve really had your fill of Mexico’s religious structures.

So: a beautiful wooden entrance door, the first altar you come across, covered in gilding (maybe or definitely a lot of real gold?); the grand altar at the back, which is truly overloaded with gold; two overall views; a statue of the Virgin.

Right next to it, we visit the ruins of the Templo Mayor. There’s a large model showing what the Templo Mayor originally looked like before the Spanish destroyed it.

Another model represents the city of Tenochtitlan as it stood in the middle of the lake that once occupied almost the entire Valley of Mexico. You can clearly see how the city was accessed by several long causeways. Here, we should mention Bernal Díaz del Castillo, a companion of Cortés, who wrote in 1568 his True History of the Conquest of New Spain, the most important and perhaps the most realistic source for understanding the circumstances of the conquest:

« and we saw the great square and the multitude of people there, some buying, others selling, and the noise of voices and words (of these people) carried for more than a league. Among us, there were several soldiers who had been to many parts of the world, and whether in Constantinople or Rome or elsewhere in Italy, they said they had never seen a square of such size and with so many people »

It’s quite something to imagine, isn’t it? 😮

Another model gives an overview of the Valley of Mexico: the lake, now filled in and swallowed by the megacity, is prominent, and in the background to the southeast (the direction I took the photo) you can clearly see the Popocatépetl volcano and its neighbor, the Iztaccíhuatl volcano.

Truth be told, not much remains of the Templo Mayor, but it’s still an interesting visit. And we certainly haven’t uncovered everything yet. What else might be found if they could excavate under the cathedral?