Discovering the joys of camping in Namibia (page 22 of 30)

Oh yeah, yeah... it's gonna be amazing 😎. Plus, there'll be servals, cheetahs, and of course lions 😏. That's right, Régis—did I miss any felines? 😇

There are also caracals, but I didn’t see any 🏴‍☠️

Yeah, yeah... it's gonna be so cool 😎. Plus, there'll be servals, cheetahs, and of course lions 😏, right Régis? Did I miss any felines? 😇

There are also caracals, but I didn't see any 🏴‍☠️

Guess we'll have to go back then! 😏 😉

Hi Isabelle

I love the photos of the African wild cat—I haven’t seen one yet. At Okaukuejo, my nighttime observation was magical! It felt like the parade of different animals had been orchestrated. First, I saw rhinos, and once they left, a jackal and a springbok arrived. A little later, 18 elephants showed up, then the rhinos came back. After that, a hare, the springbok, and the jackal returned in turn before leaving again. Nothing else happened, so I waited a bit longer, and another group of elephants with their young arrived—but there were fewer of them. Since it was late, I reluctantly went to bed. We saw two leopards in Etosha, and some of my travel companions even spotted a cheetah with binoculars. Me? Even with binoculars, I saw nothing.

Thanks for letting me relive my amazing trip to Namibia. I went to Kruger nearly 20 years ago and didn’t see nearly as many animals as I did this time.

You’ve mentioned it several times, but this travel journal is starting to feel like *the thing that never shows up*—where is it??? 🤪 Muriel

Hi Muriel,

He’s in the starting blocks... but I’ll let Rouquine finish hers at her own pace before I start. She’s wrapping up her loop, and everyone’s getting out of the 4x4. The most motivated can head out for an extra lap if they want and if they’re up for getting shaken around on the trails again. 😎

At Okaukuejo, my nighttime wildlife observation was magical! It felt like the parade of different animals had been orchestrated. I first saw rhinos, and once they left, a jackal and a springbok arrived. A little later, 18 elephants showed up, then the rhinos came back. After that, a hare, the springbok, and the jackal returned in turn, left again, and then nothing happened. I waited a bit longer, and a new group of elephants with their young arrived, though there were fewer of them. Since it was late, I reluctantly went to bed.

Wow, I can imagine—such a parade of animals must be magical 😎.

The most motivated can go for another round if they want and if they agree to get shaken up on the slopes again 😎

Yeah, great idea to wait for me, otherwise I wouldn’t have been able to join you 😉 Plus, this time we’ll get to stay in lodges 😎.

Tuesday, August 13: Etosha Okaukuejo / Halali

Despite having lots of neighbors, we managed to get some quiet to sleep after 11 PM. Phew!

By 5 AM, well before sunrise, the campsite is already buzzing. We’re not huge fans of all this closeness, but the promise of another day likely filled with wildlife encounters keeps our spirits up. We’re ready as soon as the gates open.

Our first planned stop is the viewpoint over the Pan to watch the sunrise. But a rhinoceros had other plans—it’s there, behind the bushes. We wait for it to move, but unfortunately, it leaves and disappears into the thickets.





When we reach the Pan, we spend a good while gazing at this vast white expanse—though it’s a bit gray. It’s impressive; it looks like the sea. The Etosha Pan stretches 110 km long by 60 km wide.



We then set off to explore the roads and check out the waterholes east of Okaukuejo, since our destination for the day is Halali camp, 70 km away.

At Nebrownii, a jackal and a few oryxes.





We spot two honey badgers from a distance, then another one right by the road, which later crosses in front of us.







Around a bend, a chanting goshawk (thanks to Jean Luc and Anne Marie), and an oryx with its calf, which hasn’t yet taken on the characteristic colors of an adult oryx.





At Aus, a natural waterhole—surprisingly with water, since they were all dry before. Unfortunately, there aren’t any animals.

We leave the Okaukuejo area feeling pretty disappointed and head into the western part of Halali. Will we have better luck?

Upon arrival at Homob waterhole, just a few springboks. We wait, and soon a large herd of wildebeest arrives, followed by zebras. Patience pays off! Plus, this waterhole is lovely with reeds in the middle adding some color.













They don’t stick around long—the two zebra herds leave the way they came.

Just before arriving at Sueda, where there’s only a trickle of water left with a few springboks, there’s a beautiful viewpoint over the Pan.





At Charitsaub, zebras and wildebeest are around, but the waterhole is dry.





At Salvadora, a large herd of wildebeest with the Pan in the background.







When we arrive at Rietfontein, there are already quite a few vehicles, a herd of elephants, and a herd of zebras at the far end of the waterhole—quite the attraction.









A herd of female kudu with their young arrives—oddly, no males in sight.



It’s almost 1 PM when we take our spot at Halali, number 2. There’s a lot more space than yesterday, but the layout is the same.



After lunch, we head to Morenga’s waterhole, about 500 meters from the camp. It’s already really hot in the early afternoon. The viewpoint is well set up on the rocks and shaded by branches, with the waterhole below. When we get there, there are only a few springboks. A few minutes later, an elephant arrives from one side, zebras and red hartebeest from the other side of the waterhole. The elephant splashes around to cool off and stays for a while, even after the other animals have long since left. When it finally leaves, we do the same.









Like yesterday, we take advantage of the fact that there aren’t many people around and the facilities are clean to take a shower. There’s so much dust in the air that everything is covered, including us—it’s not very pleasant.

It's 3:30 PM, it's 35°C when we hit the road again, heading first to the east of Halali.

At Goa, 4 giraffes in the upper part of the waterhole, but the waterhole itself is empty though very pretty with all the trees.





We then take Élans Drive where we have to go through zebra-striped chicanes.



A barrier of impalas escorts us back to the exit.









Some tricky spots along the way.

By 6 PM, we're back at Halali and head straight to the waterhole—we don’t want to end the day on a bad note.

Well, let’s just say today wasn’t our day—no animals in sight except for my cat paying us a little visit.



Still, we wait until sunset and then head back to set up camp.







After dinner, we return to the waterhole—we’re not ready to admit defeat just yet. We spend a long time watching several rhinos. A mother arrives with her calf, but she stays there for almost an hour because the other rhinos block her from approaching to drink. At one point, it even looks like she’s going to fight—we don’t really understand why the others don’t want her there. The noises they make are pretty impressive.

A hyena also shows up. It’s not at all afraid of the rhinos but circles around them, drinks, and then leaves.













Well, it wasn’t a memorable day, but thankfully the evening was rich in rhino sightings. No big deal—tomorrow’s another day.

We still think it’s best to spend several days in Etosha because if you bet everything on just one day and it turns out like this, you could end up really disappointed with the park.

The end of Etosha here

Hi Isabelle,

The day may have been less eventful than the previous one, but you still had some great encounters. Honey badgers are really rare to come across, and I’ve never managed to photograph one myself. And then you saw the rhinos in the evening at the waterhole. I think the raptor was a dark chanting goshawk.

I think it's a Red-footed Falcon: http://www.oiseaux.net/oiseaux/faucon.kobez.html

A honey badger, a wild cat (again), and an oryx calf—I still think the sightings are pretty amazing😉

Hello Isabelle,

The day may have been less eventful than the previous one, but you still had some great encounters. Honey Badgers are really rare to come across, and I’ve never managed to photograph one myself. And then you had the rhinos in the evening at the waterhole. As for the bird of prey, I think it’s a Dark Chanting Goshawk.

Yes, yes, we were spoiled—had to play it cool, didn’t I? 😉 Oh! The rhinos—it was amazing! So, black or white?

I think it's a red-footed falcon: www.oiseaux.net/...ux/faucon.kobez.html

Thanks Régis for the link, I’ll add its name to the text... it does look more professional that way .

A honey badger, a wild cat (again), and an oryx calf—I think the sightings are still pretty amazing, though😉

Yeah, but we’re getting a bit spoiled after all those big cats we saw the last two days

Yes, Black Rhino—bravo! The Falcon is a Pale Chanting Goshawk (PCG) as already identified. The Impalas with black faces are typical in Namibia. Well done again for spotting the Honey Badger, also known as the Cape Ratel or Cape Zorilla—it’s not easy to find them! And those Helmeted Guinea Fowl, or Numidian Guineafowl.

What beautiful photos—I always love seeing them! 😎 Thanks

Yes, Black Rhino—bravo! The Falcon is a Pale Chanting Goshawk (PCG), as already identified. The Impalas with black faces are typical in Namibia. Bravo again for the Honey Badger—Cape Ratel or Cape Zorilla or Honey Badger—it’s not easy to spot them! And the Helmeted Guinea Fowl, also known as Numidian Guineafowl.

What beautiful photos—I always love them! 😎 Thanks

Yeah, there were quite a few guineafowl on that side, as well as the black-faced Impalas we hadn’t seen before.

Hi Isabelle,

Lovely encounters in Etosha, and you saw plenty of lions on your first day!

For the wild cat, we had to wait until our third trip. We didn’t see it in Etosha but in the Richtersveld. You were really lucky to spot this feline on your first trip.

Etosha seemed quite dry, and you must’ve been really hot for this season. The animals must’ve been suffering from the heat too.

Your photos of the rhinos at the waterhole in the evening are beautiful. I imagine you had a tripod with you?

If you’re interested, KTP is great for spotting big cats—lions, leopards, and cheetahs. But as always, you need a bit of luck.

Carmen

Great wildlife encounters in Etosha, and you saw plenty of lions on your first day.

For the wildcat, we had to wait until our third trip. We didn’t see it in Etosha but in Richtersveld. You were really lucky to spot this feline on your first trip.

Yes, we had amazing encounters in Etosha—we’re absolutely thrilled and still in awe of how magical it was 🙂.

Etosha seems so dry, and you really felt the heat for this season. The animals must have been suffering in the heat.

The temperatures were indeed unusually high for the season, and unfortunately, they kept rising, making the drought even worse 🙁.

Your photos of the rhinos at the waterhole in the evening are beautiful. I imagine you had a tripod with you?

Yes, we brought the tripod. My husband mainly wanted to take photos of the starry sky in NamibRand, which he didn’t manage to do 🙁. Though, I suspect he just wants an excuse to go back 😉.

If you ever get the chance, KTP is great for spotting big cats—lions, leopards, and cheetahs. But as always, you need a bit of luck.

We still have so much to discover—KTP is definitely on our list, and sometimes luck is on our side .

I can also highly recommend KTP. The challenge comes from the limited number of permanent accommodations, especially in the smaller, more "wild" camps. And camping is only possible in the 3 main camps.

I can confirm for the KTP that I highly recommend it too. The challenge comes from the limited number of permanent accommodations, especially in the smaller, more "wild" camps. And camping is only possible in the 3 main camps.

Yes, I’d already heard about the accommodation challenges in the KTP, but whether it’s permanent or camping, I’m fine with either now 😛 It won’t be for 2020—maybe 2021... so I still have a little time 😉.