Converting a heavy-duty bus/coach/truck into a motorhome (page 24 of 161)

- I contacted Mascotte:

I can't insure it with them because I've had my license for less than 3 years in the vehicle category I'm insuring. (I don't have my Category C license yet) and no insurance company will cover me unless I declare a main driver (Category D license since it hasn't been converted) who'll provide me with their information sheet with at least a 0.80 coefficient (that's 20% bonus).

if you've got other ideas for those 3 years... Question about rust:

do you still need to put rust inhibitor before spraying with Blaxxon? and does Blaxxon actually just provide protection? doesn't it risk creating pockets that will encourage rust? also, there are holes in the lattice bars to drain water - is it better to leave them open or not? Reply for MrKonn

to set up your coach, ask benhurd - he's got an S53 and handled it well, I'm roughly following his plan. I stopped by a friend's place this weekend, the owner installed a full bathroom unit with all the amenities packed into just over a square meter: you can shower while using the toilet and brushing your teeth. the width is exactly the width of an S53 window. the problem is it's 2.05m tall (apartment door height), so you'd need to cut into the roof, and besides I don't have the price for that setup.

For the authorities, in Moselle they told me 75kg per person, but not including luggage. plan for storage somewhere anyway - they're going to tell you +Xkg for dishes, +Xkg for this and that... but in my opinion you'll always have extra loading capacity at the back. for the tanks, they count them as completely full, and I'm not sure if they completely ignore the greywater or factor part of it in. Indeed, nothing forces you (and sometimes it won't be possible) to empty your greywater when you fill up your freshwater.

try to put the tank under the rear bench (bed), lying flat, and add baffles - a 500 kg inertia is not great if you brake

I have approval from Irisbus that lets me downgrade my S53 on the condition of not exceeding 14.5T, that's 7T on the front and 7.5T on the rear. On the spec sheet (marked in red) it shows about 4T per axle when empty, so you've got 3 tonnes per axle. You can find distribution forms on the DRIRE websites (try Moselle, it's not hard to navigate their site), but the standard document has a formatting error so you won't understand right away that it's a mass/length ratio, but anyway it's broken down by length sections: you've got a certain mass at a distance from the front axle, when you add up the masses within the wheelbase and subtract the masses on the front overhang, you get the moment on the front axle, which determines what you've got left at the rear - anyway you'll figure it out.

I think 3 tonnes per axle is manageable. Mobile internet

with Bouygues, I'm going to add an unlimited Edge plan for 10 euros (it's 128kbps minimum, I don't know if it's faster) and the phone can be connected to the PC. Energy

Fuel cell www.axane.com, made by Air Liquide. Downside: still 10,000€ per kVA, but expectations for significant price drops in the next 10 years. Other downside: need space for hydrogen bottles. So I'm torn between solar panels (solution at 900 euros per 75 or 100 watt panel that rotates and tilts with a manual handle in the cabin).

And here I'm asking all the longtime owners: what are the real power consumption rates for a generator (1 desktop PC with CRT monitor + a few lights + 1 CRT TV + 1 electric fridge)? if switching to solar mode, 75W isn't much, so how much can you store with how many panels of what capacity at what price? (+batteries, how many and weight?) especially with battery storage at night - I usually have 5 or 6h of lighting + TV or PC so roughly 500W while the panels will have charged for 6 to 8h at 75Wh/h

would you need to switch to a laptop and flat-screen TV and a 12/24V or gas fridge... Webasto

can you heat water with a Webasto, and based on what - how many liters of diesel for what size water tank? (direct heater or small water heater). I'm careful to properly insulate my pipes to avoid freezing, especially against the floor and in the walls.

That's it. thanks for your replies

🙂 Hi everyone, THANKS TO FRANCOIS57 and PATRICK26 for your replies. I just went to see the bus like I said before, everything inside needs to be redone.

On the registration certificate: like vasp, gross vehicle weight 14T800, total train weight 15T550, 4 seats, body: non-spec

What I wanted to know is what gross vehicle weight and total train weight mean, and what non-spec body means. It's a bus that hasn't run for more than 3 years.

ciao...

Hello everyone,

to help you read your vehicle registration:

VASP NON SPEC: Specifically Adapted Vehicle, NOT SPECified (in other words, a vehicle with specific adaptation not specified in the known DRIRE nomenclature - like livestock trailers, tow trucks, etc.)

I'd like to remind you that since the beginning of the year, the nomenclature has been updated with the HOME CAR specification (following my 8 months of procedures with the DRIRE of the Drôme and the Ministry of Transport - see paragraph 19 of the discussion).

TC WEIGHT: total laden weight (AND NOT PTAC - Maximum Total Authorized Weight, reserved for freight transport) TR WEIGHT: total rolling weight (the difference between TC and TR being the maximum weight of the trailer you're authorized to tow - in your case 750 kg).

If the bus hasn't been driven for 3 years, watch out for the following:

the validity of air bottles, brake seizing, lubrication condition of axle seals, bearings, steering, ball joints and gear shift nose, tension of pedal and gear shift cables if applicable, etc. (basically, having a mechanic on hand for the restart is recommended)

but I'm not a mechanic.... others might be able to give you better information than me on this forum.

good luck to you,

PATRICK26

Thanks for your reply. I think it's going to be very difficult to go from a non-spec vehicle to a motorhome. I think I'm going to set everything up while sticking more or less to the original plans since everything inside needs to be redone. If I'm wrong, all the better. And what about the cops and customs—are they more of a hassle or not? I would've liked a price range for air bottles for the S45 and info on where to find them.

Thanks again TO EVERYONE FOR YOUR INFORMATION.

Hello,

no, it's not very difficult! anyway, if you install gas (cooking, heating, etc) the home-car class is preferable because, as I've already explained, if you're going to travel with the bus and take a ferry, you risk being denied access with your non-homologated motorhome (risk to them of non-compliant installations that could endanger other passengers).

know that the hardest part is already done for your vehicle. in fact it's the reclassification from bus to VASP that's difficult, not the change of sub-class!

you just need to respect the conversion rules of 69200 (you'll find them at Veritas - I think it was gx47 who gave the contact info in a post of this discussion), and everything will be fine. most rejections are made for reasons of bodywork or chassis modifications, forgotten emergency exits, etc. but you, your vehicle has already been checked and approved for these points.

rejections are rarely for interior modifications...

for the gendarmerie, it's the same: home-car means you won't be subject to the RSE (European social regulation of transport), so no tachograph, you can drive on Sundays, etc.

and non-spec VASP, they can give you a hard time because the law doesn't provide automatic exemption for this class, so you might run into people who will fine you for lack of a disc or because you're driving during forbidden time slots (for both, that's 6 points and very very expensive fines!). after that all you can do is explain to the judge that it's a motorhome, but it's not homologated as such, but that blah blah blah... and it's a mess!

but everyone does as they please, please, please... as the song says.

as for the price of bottles, there's a big difference between replacement and re-testing. check with a mechanic. unless someone on this discussion can give you info...

PATRICK26

🙂Hey Patrick, and once again a big THANK YOU for your invaluable help,

I couldn't find gx's post. See you soon, Nico

Hey kalifamily, just a quick message to share some news. We found an S53 (looks just like yours) for 1,500. The guy's doing the technical inspection for us. I think he'll get it through for us, at the very least. If needed, he'll change the tires because it hasn't been driven in a year but has been moved around a lot. Starts like a dream... and it's only 40 km from us!!!! So there we go, it's awesome, ciao, talk soon!

By the way, how long does it take to get the license? We're going to try going through an organization, but what else? And I've only had my car license for less than 3 years—is that a handicap for getting the heavy truck license?

Thanks for your responses🤪🙂😉

Hey debetdim, cool! So it's finally happening—the S53 coming to the yard soon for some serious work. That's awesome, really happy for you! One more truck that'll get a good second life. And just so you know, if you work at it you can get your license in a month max—all depends on your driving school's schedule. Me, if I hadn't messed up the practical test the first time, I would've done the driving exam the next day, and if everything went well it would've been 15 days total. But I messed up the practical, so had to take it again. Anyway, it all worked out—took a month total, license is in the bag! kali

Yeah, that's cool. I thought it took at least 2–3 months, but that works. How much did you end up paying for your license? Because if it's over €1,700, we're gonna have to find someone to drive the bus for the May 1st trip—as long as there's at least one person with their license just in case, at least for the way there. Catch you!

Just a heads-up on your license:

Chazot driving school in Bourg-lès-Valence - heavy vehicle license for €1,100 until you pass (free on-site accommodation, can do it in 15 days - practical and road test)

Chazot has over 16,000 heavy licenses, a fleet of 10 or 12 trucks, and amazing instructors! A reference in south-east France.

I've got all my heavy licenses and FIMO - passed them all at Chazot, all first-time (including the theory), and in really short timeframes.

Their site: http://www.ffrchazot.com/

PATRICK26

Yes!! thanks so much for your info, I'm going to check the website right now, thanks again

Hi!

I'd like to add one (or several) window(s) to my van that currently has absolutely no windows. I've heard there are taxes involved because it would become a campervan. But everyone has their own version... All information would be welcome!

Is it possible to install it yourself when you have no experience with sheet metalwork? Your experiences?

Talk soon.

No problem! Your vehicle won't change its classification!

Windows have never caused any tax issues....

For more info, check out the following website:

http://www.campingcar-amateur.com/

You'll find instructions on how to do the installation in the technical sections.

Happy building

PATRICK26

Hey, or rather good evening! So this is my first time jumping into your forum, but I've been hanging around for quite a while gathering info. Anyway, I'm picking up a lovely little Saviém E7 30-seater in the coming days😉and I'd be really happy to come here for your expert advice. And for a first question – I'm ready to "get started" – what do I tackle first, knowing it's completely "stock" with all its seats and windows still in place?! I'm guessing I'll have to rip out all the seats anyway, since I only have a truck license. If you could give me a quick rundown to guide my approach for the next few weeks, that'd be awesome, because honestly I'm not sure where to start with this beast!!! Thanks for your input, Ludo.😇

Thanks!

I'm on my way !

Hi Patrick

I'd like to buy 3 double-decker buses to fit them out inside. What steps do I need to take to get them approved and on the road? Is it possible to install an eco-friendly engine? Thanks in advance for your answers... Cyril😛

HEY CATELUDO!

and here's another one jumping into the adventure...

For your bus, the first thing to do is remove the seats so you can take precise measurements and validate your layout (you can always put a few back later).

Regarding your heavy vehicle license, it doesn't matter, because you won't be able to drive your bus anyway! To drive a coach you need a TCP license, and your coach without seats no longer complies with its registration (not the right number of seats listed on the registration!), so there's no legal way to drive it until your work is finished and you get inspection approval.

As for the work, you need to start with the major bodywork (sealing windows, modifying doors, etc.).

Good luck

PATRICK26

Thanks for your reply. What do you think of my base, the Saviem E7 30-seater? On another note, I'm not planning to modify the doors, and this model has a left-side driver's door. I'm planning to partition off the rear to create a kind of motorcycle storage and workshop space, with access via the rear door. Right in front of that partition, the bedroom with the bed positioned across the width at 2.30m, then shower, kitchen and so on all the way to the front. There you have it. Thanks again for your comments, Ludo.

It's a standard setup that works well for a short bus.

Make sure you have an approved emergency exit window of 40x60 cm (opening) in the bedroom and bathroom, no more than 90 cm from the ground so you can step over it. The doors must open in the direction of escape (so from the bedroom or bathroom towards the outside). You must build the partition between the cargo hold and the bedroom with square tube 40x40 mm, 2 mm thick. The structural uprights must not allow a 40 cm diameter ball to pass through. The panels must be sheet metal on the cargo hold side or 19 mm plywood.

When all that's done, we'll talk about what comes next.... (water, electrics, furniture in the passenger area, seating positions, etc).

See you soon for new adventures!

PATRICK26