Adventure in Morocco (page 3 of 3)

We arrive at a small camp nestled in the dunes: our village. There are five of us and that’s it!



Before long, we’re off exploring, tackling the dunes (it’s a tough climb!). There’s a little wildlife around, mostly noticeable by the footprints left in the sand.



Sitting at the top of a dune, we watch the sunset. Then Simon (yep, our young German, freshly married to Caroline) treats himself to some sandboarding down the slopes.

Saturday, June 7, 2014 Merzouga – Agdz Spending the night in the desert is absolutely amazing. We slept like logs until the cold woke us up at dawn. That’s when you really understand the point of all those blankets we’d scornfully pushed aside when we first got into bed! Bassou wakes us up at six. Our goal? The sunrise—we climb back up to the top of a dune to watch it rise. You’ll get a kick out of the sink with its makeshift mirror...









After that, it’s camels, breakfast, and back to Agdz, which we’re happy to see again.

Sunday, June 8, 2014 Agdz – Marrakech The five-hour drive flies by without any hassle. We savor the diverse landscapes. Driving gets a bit intense when you're stuck behind a truck struggling to climb a hill through a series of hairpin turns. At one point, I seize an opportunity and pass a group of cars on the white line without hesitation. Two cops flag us down. They throw out a number (7000 dirhams), chat among themselves. I plead guilty without arguing. In the end, they let us go. Corruption doesn’t seem to be a given around here...



Then it’s time to return the car and head to Jemaa El Fna Square. We try out my sister’s recommendation at Place des Ferblantiers, the Cosy Bar. The place is lounge-style, with comfy armchairs and "Sahara blues" music playing—unless it’s a live singer channeling Harry Belafonte: we’re definitely in the mundélé zone. From the terrace where we’re dining, the sunset draws everyone over for that perfect postcard-worthy photo!



Nearby, dozens of storks have made their nests. Around the square, kids are shrieking with joy, racing around on bikes or rollerblades. The vibe is pure fun—we’ll definitely be back!

Monday, June 9, 2014 Marrakech – Rabat We take the train. About 4 hours to Rabat, where my sister and her husband pick us up. We’d been warned: their house is huge, set in a garden that’s just as proportionally grand.



Expat life has its quirks that can feel awkward, like the natural ease of employing household staff. It still feels a bit posh around the edges! They have a guy whose job is to open the gate to their property whenever he hears their car horn, no matter the time of day or night. The gray remote control I use at home is a human being here. Though, to be fair, his situation isn’t all that different from workers everywhere. I’m told that, by the way, the "remote controller" wouldn’t trade his job for anything! Anyway, after a few drinks, we all head to the Belgian Circle where an extraordinary meeting is taking place. The young woman who runs the circle is leaving the country, and we’re chatting to find her replacement. While the debate gets passionate, she hands me a swimsuit, and I relax in their gorgeous pool. Later, Dom and I, who haven’t seen the sea in months, take a stroll on the beach.

When we get back, the new boss is chosen: it’s Karim. A larger-than-life guy who drives around in a red convertible 4L, owns two farms, and is preparing for the next FIFA World Cup with a ton of accessories he pulls out of boxes. Dom and he hit it off right away. No surprise—this guy is as charming as they come...

Tuesday, June 10, 2014 Rabat A visual tour of the city.













We lingered chatting with one of the girls my sister works with in an association that promotes the work of women from the mountains, especially their handmade terracotta pottery...

A city that’s surprising in more ways than one. And my sister is an enthusiastic guide, quick to chat with people wandering through the souks, sometimes in Arabic where she’s, as often during our trips together, simply amazing. The evening was a celebration of Belgium’s national holiday, moved up for “obvious reasons,” as the ambassador put it in his speech (Ramadan was happening at the same time). Against all odds, our inclusion in my brother-in-law’s group was accepted, and we endured the hour and a half drive to the consulate in Casablanca for the event. Dom, not exactly comfortable with protocols, arrived a bit awkward, but you’ll see—she’ll warm up fast!



Forty-five seconds later, you won’t be able to stop her from dancing!

From: Consulate General of Belgium On behalf of Consulate General of Belgium Sent: Saturday, June 14, 2014 05:31 AM To: Subject: Your memento from the evening organized by the Consul General of Belgium

Hello,

Please find below your memento from the evening organized by the Consulate General of Belgium on the occasion of the National Holiday.

Thank you for honoring us with your presence.

The Consul General of Belgium

Wednesday, June 11, 2014 Rabat – Essaouira



We take the train back to Marrakech. In Kech, we meet up at the station with mister locationman, who gives us the same car, just cleaned. The road is an endless straight line, but you don’t feel like overtaking too much or speeding. With a disastrous road accident record—one of the worst in the world—the government has ramped up checks. They’re everywhere! As we approached a roundabout, a cop stopped me. He pointed out that I’d ignored a priority sign when entering the roundabout. Apparently, the sign clearly indicated it was a reversed priority. Fine. I put on my best remorseful driver face, full of regret, and waited for absolution. But we’d run into a real stickler. He checked everything—passports, *whatever*—and took notes. It was endless. The result: 5000 dirhams. The rest of the drive was tense. The mood was ruined. The road seemed like it would never end... When Essaouira finally came into view, we started to feel alive again. The sea was there—we imagined evening walks on the beach... But the city was blocked. A music festival, which at that moment was nothing short of a pain in the ass. We struggled to find the hotel. The GPS was completely off. I asked a cop. He told me it wasn’t there at all! Our hotel was way out on the Agadir road! I couldn’t believe my ears! I was sure I’d booked a place with a sea view. With a heavy heart, I took the road he indicated. We headed toward the suburbs—ugly enough to make you cry. After a drive on a dirt track, we arrived exhausted, morale at rock bottom. We barely listened to the guy showing us around the place. We didn’t care—we just wanted to see the room. It was cute, but the balcony was stuck in a concrete space. Here too, I remembered a terrace praised in the reviews. I asked the guy if he could give us a room with a balcony *with a view*. Whispered discussions... A *mundélé* took a firm tone. "Go check if room 24 is free. If it’s ready, give it to them!" And let me tell you, that room 24 saved the day! We suddenly realized we were in paradise! The room and the place were just amazing!





That evening, we headed back to Essaouira. The city was in full festival prep mode, starting the next day. For the sound check, bands were already playing—and it was really good. A festive vibe was everywhere. We didn’t have too much trouble finding our smiles again!

Thursday, June 12, 2014 Essaouira We wake up and discover our new place. The ceiling of our room is a dome pierced with colorful stars. Fun. Then it’s continental breakfast, followed by the pool...







And we’re off—the Gnaoua Festival, "world music," has begun. All the Moroccan youth have made the trip. The scent of cannabis lingers in the streets. Dom and I wander through it all with pleasure.







Leaving the city center, the beach is packed. A whole crowd has settled in. A strange mist... like a foggy film has set an avant-garde mood. We’re in Antonioni territory.



In the evening, we linger on the terrace, sipping an orange rum.

Friday, June 13, 2014 Essaouira – Marrakech You know the road... We didn’t rush to take it! We lingered by the pool until late in the afternoon, encouraged by our hosts ("you can stay as long as you want, the room hasn’t been booked..."). We didn’t need to be told twice!

Saturday, June 14, 2014 Marrakech - Mulhouse On our last day in Marrakech, no fear—we decided to visit the two must-see spots still missing from our checklist: the Ben Youssef Madrasa and its museum, the Saadian Tombs, and the Bahia Palace. The first is quite far, to the north, after crossing Jemaa El Fna square.







We then visited the adjoining museum (skippable...).





Next, we headed to the second spot, diametrically opposite if you consider Jemaa El Fna as the center. With the heat absolutely crushing, our plan to grab a drink at the Place des Ferblantiers turned into a "Raft of the Medusa"-style expedition. Dom was visibly wilting in front of me. Eventually, he sat down on the curb. Demanded a break. Couldn’t go on. The superheated air shimmered around us. Nothing seemed able to stop it from drying us out. We were in such bad shape that we even hailed a taxi! A few bottles of ice-cold sparkling water later, we were off again for one last trek through the souk.

Dom, in a wind-swept corridor, in the shade: "Well, I’m not moving anymore!" At 4:30 PM, the fun’s over—time to start the journey that’ll get us home by around midnight.