Review of a Mediterranean cruise on the Splendida and 24 hours in Venice – October 2024 (page 3 of 7)

Thursday, October 24, Athens (continued)

The climb up to the Acropolis at this time of day is pleasant without the heat.







The higher you go, the more crowded it gets, and when you reach the top, it’s tourist hell—huge crowds and endless lines.

The viewpoint over the city is dangerous because the stones on the ground are so worn and polished they’re extremely slippery—it’s like an ice rink, and everyone’s very careful.





It’s also a climate nightmare for the olive trees dried out by the summer’s scorching heat. Their leaves range from yellow ochre to brown ochre—what kindling for fires!





Heading back down into the city through quiet, peaceful little streets is much more enjoyable.

Thursday, October 24, Athens (continued)

The Orthodox Cathedral of Athens, built between 1842 and 1862, is stunning. Its beautiful façade on Syntagma Square is imposing, and its richly decorated interior architecture is breathtaking.







In this neighborhood, traffic is completely gridlocked, and I feel bad for people stuck in taxis. It’s better to get around on foot—you end up walking more. The little tavernas we used to know now have hundreds of tables stretching as far as the eye can see. Slim chance they’ll have Retsina—it’s more like beer and burgers. This overtourism vibe makes us want to leave.





We should’ve gone back to eat in the market district—we didn’t even think of it.

The shops in the Plaka neighborhood are the same as everywhere else in big cities around the world, stocked with containers straight from China. No personality, no charm, and sometimes even tacky.





We start thinking we’d be better off going back to eat on the ship. Ten minutes later, we take the metro, then a taxi (10 €) to return to the comfort and quiet of the One Pool—without the crowds. Plus, there’s no one around since everyone’s off on excursions. Perfect for us.

Thursday, October 24, Athens (continued)

This afternoon, we have the choice between lounging in the sun or continuing our wanderings in search of new horizons. The question doesn’t linger for long.

The goal of our walk is the old small port of Piraeus, which has changed a lot since the first time we visited. Today, it’s called Zea Marina.



At the entrance of the port, on the sea side, the most beautiful yachts are showing off, side by side, each one more stunning than the last. They’re truly magnificent, equipped with the most luxurious amenities imaginable.







Numerous trendy bars and restaurants, all dressed in black, line the port, with no originality to set them apart from one another.



As we get closer to the city center, the boats become more reasonably sized.



The heart of the port is reserved for small fishing boats, quite charming with their friendly faces.

Thursday, October 24, Athens (continued)

The small tavernas that lined the port many years (or rather, decades) ago have turned into large bars and restaurants with lovely terraces overlooking the marina.





This lovely stroll saved our day because we were quite disappointed by central Athens.

After walking over 19 km on foot, it’s so nice to return to the cozy comfort of the boat and relax in peace (as always) with a good book.

The Virgin Scarlet Lady, docked next to us, sets sail just before our departure. When I hear the noise and blaring music from the upper deck, I have no desire to try out this cruise line.



The wind is blowing hard as we pass Cape Sounion—it’ll rock us to sleep nicely.

Hello and thank you for your very helpful and interesting review! The jacuzzi story horrifies me. How could MSC staff not intervene in a case like that? I see you were in the YC—is it the jacuzzi at the ONE POOL that’s involved? That would be the last straw! We’re interested in an itinerary this spring on the Splendida, which I never considered before because it seems the YC on this ship only recently opened. From reading your review, it sounds great (aside from the jacuzzi ). I’ll keep reading your review carefully. See you later,

Hi Catherine,

Thanks for this lovely travel journal—it’s such a treat to read you! 😊

Hello and thank you for your very appreciated and interesting review! The jacuzzi story horrifies me. How can MSC staff not intervene in a case like that? I see you were in YC. Is it the jacuzzi at the ONE POOL that’s involved? That would be the last straw! We’re interested in an itinerary this spring on the Splendida, which I never considered before because it seemed the YC on this ship only existed recently. After reading your review, it looks great (apart from the jacuzzi ). I’ll keep reading your review carefully. See you later.

Hello Gilberte, Thanks for reading and enjoying my story—it makes me happy. Yes, it’s the jacuzzi at the One Pool, and the staff never says anything. The YC has been on this ship since the beginning; it was one of the first ships to have one, if I’m not mistaken.

Thanks Alfred 😊 😊

Hi Catherine,

Thanks so much for letting us travel with you. Mum49

Hello Catherine,

Thank you so much for taking us along on your journey. Mum49

Thanks for following me, but it’s not over yet—just a pause today because of a really busy day.

Friday, October 25, Kusadasi

The temperature is still a bit chilly this morning, only 10°C, but with bright sunshine. Kusadasi has naturally changed a lot since we’ve been coming here (a little over 30 years), and it’s become a charming seaside resort that’s grown tremendously.

I’d forgotten how much I loved Turkey, and I’m so happy to rediscover its simple, good-natured atmosphere.

We’ve already visited Ephesus three times, so today we’ll just take a stroll around town. I noted down the address of a supermarket where I want to buy some rose jam and a few spices—no need to haggle like in tourist shops, and at a better price. Plus, it’ll give us a nice walk goal.

The tourist district is still asleep as we pass through.







Tucked at the foot of a highway, we come across a huge market hall.







It spans two floors and offers colorful, generous stalls with the lively vibe of a neighborhood market.

Friday, October 25, Kusadasi (continued)

On the way back, along the road, we push open the half-open gate of a shaded and sober cemetery. It’s entirely white, from the tombs to the tree trunks that have been painted.





The cats, always numerous in Turkey, haven’t been forgotten—a kind soul makes sure they’re fed.



Back in the tourist center of Kusadasi, we stroll among carpet, leather, and jewelry merchants, as well as vendors selling knockoffs of all the big brands. Four ships—Regent, Silversea, Ponant, and MSC—are docked this morning, yet the shopkeepers seem rather idle, with few passersby… who aren’t biting.



In the city center of Kuşadası, stands a caravanserai built in the 17th century. Its high crenellated walls once housed a customs house and an inn, before recently becoming a hotel—itself now closed.





In the inner courtyard, two levels of galleries with pointed arches form this beautiful structure.



The seaside promenade is peaceful and not very crowded until the Peace Hand, a monumental sculpture.



The stop is short, and the ship sets sail again in the early afternoon. We find this port call just right—perfect. We enjoy the good weather on the terrace of the One Pool, reading in the sun. The wind blows hard and noisily, as it often does in the Aegean Sea, but we’re well sheltered behind the ship’s tall windows.

Hi Catherine, What a pleasure to read your travel journal again—thanks!

Thanks, that’s really kind—I’m happy to share these memories with you.

Saturday, October 26, Istanbul

The ship only arrives around 9 AM near Istanbul, which lets us fully enjoy the arrival in the city and the view of Topkapi Palace and the mosques overlooking the Bosphorus.





As usual, the ship is docked at the Port of Galata, well before Dolmabahçe Palace. What’s changed is the huge cruise terminal built to welcome passengers. It’s stunning but invisible—entirely built underground, so it doesn’t spoil the landscape.



Disembarkation formalities are very well organized. We were given a document with a barcode that made the process smooth and quick.

The very discreet entrance to the cruise terminal.

Security gates filter visitors’ access to the quay along the Bosphorus. A whole new district has been built here, with plenty of bars, restaurants, and shops.







As you approach the city, everything is set up so you won’t run out of cash.



It’s only near the bridge, after filling your pockets with change, that you’ll find taverns with a more local vibe.

Saturday, October 26, Istanbul (continued)

The Galata Bridge has kept its soul with its many restaurants at unreasonable prices, European-style on one side...



...and oriental-style on the other.



The many fishermen on the bridge cast their lines between the boats crisscrossing the river.



At the end of the bridge, a tunnel turned into a shopping arcade lets you cross the traffic lanes safely.





We arrive at the large square with great pleasure, where the first stalls of the market are set up. Fruits, vegetables, fish, and cheeses compete in colors and scents.

Saturday, October 26, Istanbul (continued)

Under the stunning vaulted and decorated ceilings of the covered market, the stalls overflow with spices, herbs, and all sorts of Turkish delights.









The Egyptian Bazaar is one of Istanbul’s oldest markets, dating back to the Ottoman era when Istanbul was the trade hub of all Europe beyond Venice. During the 15th century, spices traveled from India and Southeast Asia to Egypt, then were shipped to Istanbul across the Mediterranean Sea. It’s because this market was built with funds from the Ottoman district of Egypt in 1660 that it’s called the Egyptian Bazaar.

A small restaurant we love, but today, it’s still too early to sit down there.



Old courtyards have been opened and restored to offer travelers passing through pleasant spaces for relaxation and dining.





The countless shops in this market offer everything essential for daily life in a household or business.

Saturday, October 26, Istanbul (continued)

The shops stretch endlessly, street after street, from the shores of the Bosphorus to Istanbul’s famous Grand Bazaar, renowned for centuries. The buzz of activity fills every street and every shop.





You’ll find all kinds of shops here, even the most unexpected ones.



At the top of a long street, a side door leads to the back of the legendary market.



Istanbul’s Grand Bazaar is one of the largest and oldest markets in the world. It was built by Sultan Mehmet II shortly after the conquest of Constantinople in 1453 and was significantly expanded in the 16th century by Suleiman the Magnificent.





It has no fewer than 65 indoor streets and nearly 4,000 shops, each street specializing in something different—rugs, jewelry, tableware, all kinds of clothing, perfumes, leather goods, souvenirs, and more. The selection is vast, and there’s something for everyone. It’s a paradise for wandering and lingering.

Saturday, October 26, Istanbul (continued)

We head back out through the main gate, but unfortunately, its façade is hidden by a large flag. The square we emerge onto is packed with a dense, compact crowd—we have to weave our way through.



The wide esplanades between the Blue Mosque and Hagia Sophia are swarming with people, and the lines for mosque visits are painfully long. The crowd moves slowly, and it’s stifling. We just want to escape.

Against our plans, we decide to head back to the ship for a quiet meal instead of eating in the middle of the crowd.

We hop into a taxi that pulls up in front of us to save time. "How much to the cruise terminal?" "40 €," the driver replies. For less than 3 km! We get out just as fast as we got in and walk back briskly—it’s an easy distance. With all the traffic, we might not have taken much longer than by car. 😏

We have the pool terrace all to ourselves for this meal, and it’s a relief after the crowds. We’re pampered and savor the moment while enjoying some grilled octopus. We even treat ourselves to a little downtime before heading out again.



This time, we stay on the north side of the city. We come across a lovely Turkish confectionery shop across from the Peninsula Hotel, hoping the quality will be better than in the bazaar stalls. The service is excellent, and we promise to stop by on our way back so we don’t have to carry the sweets around in our backpack all afternoon.



The cobbled streets leading to Galata Tower are quite steep and packed with shops.





The neighborhood has developed a lot—it’s also overrun with tourists, all competing to take the best selfie in front of the tower.

Saturday, October 26, Istanbul (continued)

The crowd is large, but we continue our way toward Taksim Square. We’re not in the middle of tourists but among Istanbul locals. There are lots of young people enjoying their Saturday.

Street vendors are everywhere, offering chestnuts, fruit, mussels to taste, or brightly colored lollipops made on the spot to order.







Charming little alleys branch off from the main street.





And there are always beautiful pastries to enjoy in the shop windows.



Walking through all these crowds isn’t very pleasant. Big chain stores dominate, and they’re the same as everywhere else.



Once again, the crowd wears us out. We’ve had enough and turn back before reaching Taksim Square.

We head back calmly, stopping at a beautiful, large shop selling Turkish delights. It was an excellent choice—they’re delicious.

Along the Bosphorus promenade, we enjoy one last time the lively scene created by the little boats crisscrossing in every direction.

We had so much fun revisiting these Istanbul neighborhoods we loved strolling through, but we were really disappointed by the crowds everywhere, which take away the charm these places used to have. Just like in many other big cities or overly famous sites...