Three weeks in Norway (July 2022): fantastic memories despite the rain (page 3 of 6)

Continuation of Day 10, Monday, July 18

Stop at the viewpoint over Trollstigen.





Final stretch of road to Åndalsnes. We’re going to pick up our cabin. It’s payable on-site, and luckily I had the price in mind because when I go to enter the code, I realize the amount on the payment terminal is a bit higher than expected (about fifty euros more, in fact). The lady explains they’ve raised their rates, but since we booked well in advance at a lower price, she doesn’t make a fuss and re-enters the correct amount. Once inside the cabin, it’s so spacious (we have two separate bedrooms) and well-equipped that we understand why they raised the prices—and we appreciate even more that we paid less!

The weather isn’t great, but it’s not raining, so we set off on a hike. The plan: a solid climb of 500 m in elevation gain over 2 km to reach the Rampestreken viewpoint. We start on metal grating, then it’s a succession of rocks and roots all the way to the top. You’ve got to be careful, too, because the ground is damp and the roots are slippery.



I obviously get left behind, and I arrive at the summit well after the boys, but the view at the top makes you forget all the effort!





For the descent, I know my knee’s going to struggle with the elevation change. So Yannick heads off with the kids and takes them back to the cabin so they can shower. I take my time, and I arrive at the bottom just as he comes back to get me!

Accommodation: Hytteutleie in Åndalsnes 126 € Day’s summary: An amazing day between Gamle Strynefjellsvegen, Trollstigen, and Rampestreken! We’ve soaked up even more breathtaking views, and we’ll be dreaming about them tonight!🌙

We’re finally extending our trip by a week! Originally, we were doing Oslo > Kristiansand. I rethought the trip in reverse since I really want to end with Under and take the ferry to Denmark, then stop in Skagen! Now it’ll be Oslo > Åndalsnes (perfect timing!) and then we’ll head back down toward Geiranger, the glaciers, Flam, Bergen, and Stavanger. Obviously, we won’t do too much hiking except for Preikestolen. In Åndalsnes, I saw there’s a cable car to go up and enjoy the view—maybe it’s brand new?

We’re finally extending by a week! Originally we were doing Oslo > Kristiansand. I rethought the trip in reverse since I really want to end at Under and take the ferry to Denmark and stop in Skagen! Now it’ll be Oslo > Åndalsnes (perfect timing!) and then we’ll head back down toward Geiranger, the glaciers, Flam, Bergen, and Stavanger. Obviously, we won’t do too much hiking except for Preikestolen.

It’s coming together!

In Åndalsnes, I saw there’s a cable car to go up and enjoy the view. Maybe it’s brand new?

We saw it afterward! No big deal, I was happy I got to do it on foot.

Day 11 Tuesday, July 19

Beautiful sunshine when we woke up! The view from the cabin is even nicer, and we take advantage of the wooden table to have breakfast outside.

Once we’ve packed up, we hit the road west: this morning’s plan is to visit Ålesund, sometimes considered the most beautiful city in Norway. Excerpt from my travel journal: Like many Norwegian cities, most of Ålesund’s buildings were made of wood. And, like many of them, it was prone to frequent fires. On January 23, 1904, a fire broke out, fanned by strong winds, and destroyed almost the entire city. The inhabitants had to flee in the middle of the night in extreme urgency. 800 houses were reduced to ashes, and 10,000 people were left homeless. France sent the Cassini (a warship) to help the residents. German Emperor Wilhelm II, who often spent his vacations in Ålesund, heard about the disaster that had struck his favorite holiday spot. At his own expense, he sent several thousand German craftsmen and around fifty architects, who rebuilt the city in stone and brick in the then-popular Art Nouveau style. The buildings featured numerous turrets, spires, and ornate facades—the whole ensemble is distinctive and almost unique in the world.

We stroll through the city with our noses in the air, admiring the beautiful facades,

then, of course, we climb the 418 steps leading to the Fjellstue, a well-known viewpoint over the city.

After eating at Egon restaurant (the pizza buffet is reasonably priced), we take another short walk to the church before turning back toward the car.



We won’t say we didn’t like it, but visiting this city left us a bit unsettled... we didn’t really feel like we were in Norway, but more like in Germany or Switzerland.

After about an hour’s drive, we arrive in Vestnes, ready to board the ferry that takes us across to Molde. Then another 45 minutes on the road, and we reach our hotel by the Atlantic. We rented a really nice cabin—a living room, two bedrooms, all very comfortable!



Since we’re not too tired from the day yet, Yannick goes for a run while Calista and I take a walk by the water. The place is very peaceful, and we’re treated to some beautiful evening light.



Hotel: Hustadvika Havhotell 196 € with breakfast Day’s summary: we stay true to ourselves and prefer nature over cities... we felt more at home in the middle of nowhere near the hotel than in Ålesund.

Yes, it's coming together, and I'm really happy about it because the south coast route that was mentioned as scenic in "Visit Norway" seemed a bit dreary and monotonous to me, with endless beaches lined with dunes (just like back home!). But a little further on, I found some charming little ports via Google Maps—sort of mini fishing fjords—and I hadn’t seen them mentioned anywhere. Places like Nesvåg, Sogndalstrand, or Vinterstø, for example.

Hi Sylvie,

On the south coast, I also noted Jøssingfjord (houses under the cliff) and the Lindesnes lighthouse. Might be worth adding to your list ;)

Hi Peggy,

Did you get lost somewhere between Molde and the Lofoten? 😄

Your latest photos of Molde are gorgeous with that end-of-day light. On the other hand, I’d noted Ålesund as a Plan B if we had bad weather preventing us from hiking around Geiranger, but it seems kinda dreary as a town. Maybe I’ll try to find a Plan C! !

Thanks Virginie! The houses under the cliff: yeah, I’d seen those. Actually, there’s quite a bit to see in that area, which doesn’t seem too touristy after all. Lindesnes Lighthouse: Yep, it’s on the list—especially since we’ll be sleeping nearby and having dinner at the famous Under restaurant! 😉

Your latest photos of Molde are stunning with that end-of-day light.

Thanks! But the photos weren’t taken in Molde—they were taken at the hotel, pretty close to the Atlantic Road.

On the other hand, I’d noted Ålesund as a Plan B if we get bad weather preventing us from hiking around Geiranger, but it seems a bit dull as a town. Maybe I’ll try to find a Plan C!

We didn’t love it either, and if we did it again, I don’t think I’d make the detour to Ålesund. But hey, different strokes for different folks...

Day 12 Wednesday, July 20

To start the day, we follow in James Bond’s footsteps on the Atlantic Ocean Road (a scenic route with 8 distinctive bridges connecting 17 islets). Okay... to be honest, I have to say I think this road is a bit overrated!

Next, we head north toward the Lofoten Islands. As mentioned earlier, it’ll take us 3 days to reach Reine: we know we’ll be driving a lot, but we still want to enjoy the journey along the way! We’ve got a 6.5-hour drive planned today, with a stop in the lovely city of Trondheim.

First stop: the Tyholttårnet, a panoramic tower on the outskirts of the city. This tower lets us kill two birds with one stone: we enjoy a great view of Trondheim while filling up at the Egon restaurant’s buffet.

Once we’re full, we head into the city center. We’re surprised by the traffic—or lack of it: there’s hardly anyone on the streets, even though this is the third-largest city in the country!

We leave the car after paying the parking meter by card. We cross the Bakke Bru (bridge) over the Nidelva River and spot Nidaros Cathedral in the distance.

The streets in the city center are colorful.

We pass by the royal residence (Stiftsgården), which is the largest wooden palace in all of Scandinavia.

Then we cross Torvet, the market square.

Continuation of Day 12, Wednesday, July 20

... before reaching the magnificent Nidaros Cathedral.



Excerpt from my roadbook:

The cathedral, the largest medieval building in Scandinavia, was built in 1153. It’s the final stop on the pilgrimage to Saint Olaf’s tomb. You’ll find stunning facades made of gray soapstone, blending Gothic and Romanesque styles—especially on the west side, where a row of statues of kings and saints brings the stone to life. Inside, there are colorful modern stained-glass windows and a beautiful rose window. Every hour, you can climb to the top of the tower for a great view of the city (max 30 people due to steep stairs). There’s a line to get into the cathedral, and my travel companions aren’t interested in going inside, so we continue toward the Archbishop’s Palace (Erkebispegården). There’s a small market there where we buy some Norwegian honey—it’s not cheap, but it’s really good.

We now start making our way back to the car. We cross the Gamle Bybro (completed in 1685 and rebuilt in 1861) and cross the Nidelva River again.



Finally, we walk up Nedre Bakklandet (former warehouses).

And that wraps up our visit to Trondheim. It was quick, but we really enjoyed it. We still have two and a half hours of driving ahead to reach our accommodation for the night—a little house in the countryside. The views look idyllic (it’s a bit like a farm), but we don’t see much of the outside because it’s raining when we arrive. The inside is super cozy, though—lots of decor and knick-knacks that make it feel warm and inviting.

Accommodation: Gran Nordre in Snåsa 103 € Day’s summary: The drive didn’t feel too long in the end, and we loved Trondheim.

Hi Peggy,

So glad to read your travel journal—it’s perfect timing since we’re heading to the fjords region for 12 days in April! I’ve had to adjust the itinerary quite a bit because the scenic roads will probably still be closed, but I can’t wait to discover the Nordic landscapes.

How Hugo and Calista have changed! 😮

I really need to take the time to write up the journals from our last few trips (Yellowstone, Florida, and last summer in Tuscany 😉).

Okay, it's vacation time—I need to finally wrap up this travel journal! !😏 I’ll try to stick to one post per day...

Hi Charlène,

Thanks for your message! 12 days in the fjords region—you’re gonna love it! Make sure to bundle up! !😉

Like Hugo and Calista have changed 😮

Yep... they’ve grown up, and we’ve gotten older!

Day 13 Thursday, July 21

We continue our journey north. First stop after nearly 2 hours on the road at Nordlandsporten: we enter a new region.

Souvenir shopping at the gift shop, and we're off again!

We arrive an hour later at the Laksforsen waterfall. It’s not tall but powerful. We’re lucky to catch a few rays of sunshine.

Lunch is at the small cafeteria—still with those Norwegian prices, of course! Then we set off again for what might be the last leg of the day, driving to Mo I Rana. But since it’s still early when we arrive, we don’t stop and continue to Grønligrotta. We buy tickets for the last tour of the day at 5:00 PM. The cave tour is interesting. Sure, it’s nothing compared to some of the wonders we have in France, but it gave us a chance to do and see something other than just driving.

A memorable little moment on the way out: the kids and I had already left and were waiting for Yannick to come up (he stayed behind to take a few photos). The guide comes out, sees us but doesn’t ask if we’re still waiting for someone and turns off the lights! We didn’t even have time to call out to him before he was gone! We thought, "Oh well, no big deal, Yannick wasn’t far and he’ll find his way with the light from his phone." Except he didn’t have his phone... and he lit his way with the camera flash instead! We’re still laughing about it!

We head back toward Mo I Rana to check in at the hotel. Bad surprise when we arrive... No reception open, no cars in the parking lot... it looks both lived-in and deserted at the same time! Of course, no one answers when we ring the bell. We finally ask some passersby, who tell us the hotel has been closed for months—it’s now housing Ukrainian refugees. And apparently, the hotel canceled all reservations but forgot to notify Hotels.com!

So there we are, calling Hotels.com to let them know, get a refund, and find us another place. It takes nearly an hour, being passed from one department to another... At first, they say they have no rooms in Mo I Rana and offer us a hotel 45 minutes away. Honestly, after the drive from our last place and the round trip to Grønligrotta, we really don’t feel like hitting the road again! We don’t understand why they can’t offer us anything when the Clarion right in front of us is listed on their site... but apparently, the "relocation" team doesn’t have access to the same hotels as the online listings. We finally reach a deal: we book two rooms at the Clarion ourselves (with a dinner buffet included—how royal!) and Hotels.com refunds the difference a few days later. We may have lost an hour with all this, but we gained a great hotel with plenty of choices for breakfast and dinner. We’re happy!

Grønligrotta visit: 75 € for the 4 of us Hotel: Clarion Collection in Mo I Rana 160 € instead of 256 € (difference covered by Hotels.com) with breakfast and dinner buffet Day’s summary: some great stories to tell!

Day 14 Friday, July 22

A morning on the road, interrupted by crossing the Arctic Circle.

We also make a stop just because the river is beautiful!

I’d noted to be at the dock by 12:45 PM for a 1:30 PM departure, and since we quickly took the time to fill up the tank upon arriving in Bodø, we’re right on time. We line up in the queue for those with reservations and realize it was the absolute last call at 12:45 PM... our line is already moving! We see staff scanning reservations in other lines, but no one will scan ours since we’re following the other cars. So we leave the paper clearly visible behind the windshield just in case.

As soon as the car is parked, we’re asked to leave it and head to the lounges. We grab something to eat and settle in. Fifteen minutes later, Hugo realizes he could’ve brought his schoolwork to study during the next four hours... but access to the cars is already impossible—the doors are locked.

The crossing goes smoothly; it’s just a shame it’s raining the whole time, so we can’t enjoy the ocean views or the arrival in the Lofoten! We disembark after 4 hours on the ferry. First glimpse of Reine: we think it’s pretty even in the rain!

Then we discover our little rorbu with its feet in the water: we’re going to be cozy here for the next three nights!

Ferry Bodø – Moskenes: 94 € Hotel: Eliassen Rorbuer in Hamnøy 235 € Day’s summary: Here we are, the Lofoten are ours!

Day 15 Saturday, July 23

After the rain, sunshine! The heavy downpours from the previous evening and night have given way to a few clouds, but the sun is making beautiful appearances this morning. That’s all it takes for Yannick and me to feel like going for a walk (the kids are still sleeping, though 😉). We take a stroll around our little island.



Our *rorbu* is the third one from the left.

Continuation of Day 15, Saturday, July 23

After picking up the kids and getting the picnic ready, we head to Nesland. Some beautiful views await us along the way.

The hike we were about to do (along the coast between the villages of Nesland and Nusfjord) was described as fairly easy, with only 100 m of elevation gain and pretty... In reality, it turned out to be quite disorienting—we just kept going up, down, and up again... all on wet rocks and through mud for 5 hours. If we’d known, we would’ve settled for this gorgeous view of Nesland after just 20 minutes of walking!

Oh well, the Lofoten Islands are still stunning!

In the evening, we take a little stroll around Reine. It’s almost 9 PM in these photos.

Hotel: Eliassen Rorbuer in Hamnøy 235 € Day’s summary: Despite a pretty tiring hike and the small village of Nusfjord, which we didn’t find particularly interesting, we’re completely charmed by the Lofoten Islands. Can’t wait to discover more tomorrow!

Really lovely photos despite the so-so weather! 🙂 Ugh, the Lofoten Islands—a dream that won’t happen this year, unfortunately! 🤪 I’ve already extended the trip with the Fjords, which’ll make it a full month. So, the Lofoten Islands will have to wait for next time—by plane and with a rental car!

Hi Peggy, What a pleasure to see you again (and to see the forum again). I see you’ve fallen under Norway’s spell. Me too. We spent a week in the Lofoten Islands in 2023 (we also stayed, in part, at Eliassen Rorbuer, and that place remains one of my most beautiful memories) and took the Bergen-Kirkenes-Bergen "cruise" in September 2024. I’m looking for ideas for this year, and that’s how I came across your travel journal. What courage to have done all that road tripping—those waterfalls and stunning landscapes are giving me so many ideas. But... the prices are really steep, especially for renting a car.

I can’t wait to read the rest of your travel journal to revisit those gorgeous Lofoten landscapes. See you soon, Françoise