A long journey around Australia (page 3 of 5)

Thursday, October 12, 2023 Carnarvon - Ningaloo



I spent another night completely wiped out.

We head back to the center of town. The "esoteric" stuff is still there.



Then we continue our slow journey north. 2 hours 30.



Until Coral Bay. We’re staying in a backpacker. It’s cheap, but it’s basically a prison cell (with AC, though! Without it, it’d be like refusing to help someone in danger. People who say "enough with your AC!" don’t realize there are places on Earth where living without it isn’t possible). The toilets/showers are shared on the floor. It’s not great, but it’ll do.



The place itself, though, is stunning. The sea has colors I’ve never seen anywhere else. We went snorkeling—meh at first. But later, the lagoon turned into a giant aquarium. Fish were swimming everywhere!

We met up with our friends Angus and the daily catch. Here, they practice BYO—Bring Your Own. You go to a liquor store, pick the best Australian wine at Cora prices, then bring it to the restaurant to enjoy with your meal. We’ve dreamed of this!

But no terrace, and the backpacker’s no-alcohol policy pushed us to take an "orange juice" break instead.

😉

Friday, October 13, 2023 Coral Bay - Exmouth Friday the 13th effect? Ever since a little postal clerk in Riedisheim told me there was a bank offering a Visa card with no international fees, I went for it. It was "La French Bank." First 50 €… then 1,000 €. I started using it here and noticed it actually spends the exact amount in AUD—nothing extra! A miracle! Since then, I’ve only used this one and topped it up accordingly. This morning, though, I discovered my spending has a limit. I’ve exceeded it. Now all my purchases are being declined. The problem got worse when my Mastercard started giving me flat-out rejections too. Turns out it’s flagging "suspicious activity." Philiiiiiipe!! Help! And Dom’s Visa? Just no. Bye-bye. We still have enough to eat because we stocked up on fresh food as soon as we arrived. Now we just need to sort things out…

We quickly covered the 152 kilometers to Exmouth through an increasingly arid landscape, dotted with termite mounds the whole way. But seriously, what do they even eat? There’s nothing left on this inhospitable land!

Exmouth is a charm-free town. A holiday village. But our Ningaloo Lodge is a little paradise. We had a pool right away! Let me clarify—it’s deadly hot! You can’t leave a lounge chair in the sun and lie on it. You won’t get back up. Your partner will end up with a well-done sirloin instead! We barely let the tips of our toes tan! Then we went to explore the village…



Swooping—turns out it’s not exactly fun! Dom and I experienced it in Perth. A bird literally attacks you, diving at full speed and brushing past you—sometimes even touching you with its wings! It’s quite the sensation! We stopped by the Information Center. "Seeing whales… is it possible?" "Yes, it is!" We’ve booked for tomorrow. 70% chance—leaves things open, I’ll let you know how it goes…







We’ve got well-equipped kitchens. It’s the rule—we eat at home. We went grocery shopping. Some *comeback* steaks! Tomatoes, fruit…

Saturday, October 14, 2023 Exmouth Exmouth – A straightforward climate:

What a day! First off, Ningaloo Lodge is a real hippie haven when you see the vibe there. Everything’s available with absolute trust. The "help yourself" policy is total.

We naturally have breakfast at one of the little tables in the small, tastefully arranged Garden of Eden. Like everyone else, we do the dishes afterward and clean our table. We act like civilized human beings who care about our neighbors’ well-being. A new and interesting concept! Then we head out on an expedition. First, we go to the highest point in the area, the Exmouth Lighthouse. I’d read that from there, with good binoculars, you could definitely spot whales cruising offshore. Nope! Not a single one in this ocean with its extraordinary colors. We’re worried our Whale Watch trip this afternoon is gonna be a bust! So we head off to snorkel at a spot the girl at the info center told us was ranked among the world’s top 10 beaches: Turquoise Bay. Sold like that, it was doomed to disappoint.

We splash around. Like when we tried our masks at the Delphin, the snorkel lets in water, and it’s super annoying. The edges are fishy, but for little guys like us who’ve swum in the Celebes Sea… Sorry, but it’s pretty weak. Despite the warnings on the beach about strong currents, we venture a bit farther out toward the rocky and coral areas. Since my snorkel keeps flooding, I take a big gulp of air to clear it. As soon as I do, I greedily inhale to get more air. But instead of air, I get another mouthful of saltwater. A liter! It goes straight into my lungs. That f* snorkel’s trying to kill me. I never want to see it again! It needs to disappear!

I collapse on my towel and continue swimming without gear, just chilling...

Back home. We change. Off we go for the whale watch!

Exmouth, at the tip of a long peninsula, is a dream for whale lovers. Tens of thousands pass through every year. Even though we’re at the very end of the migration season, we had to take our chance. It was now or never! We get briefed. The conservation plan in place. I look like I’m smiling, but I’m not—Australia’s hyper-protective of cetaceans, and it’s paying off. Along their coasts, the population is growing. Yes, growing—you read that right, against the trend of what’s happening everywhere else!

Okay, they warn us: good human/animal interactions depend on respecting observation distances. No charging in for a close-up to see them jump with the usual oohs and aahs of tipsy tourists. We’ll see them, but from a good distance. If you’re not happy, the buoys are under the benches. Pretty quickly, we spot shapes… that become clearer… We’re there… We did it—there are tons of them everywhere!







Weird moment: we cross paths with the Rainbow Warrior, like it’s risen from the past! On deck, a bunch of kids are partying and sending us enthusiastic, fraternal hellos! We dock at almost 8 p.m. So, what do we do now to celebrate?

In Exmouth, we were waiting for you to have dinner at our place, but you got back at the crack of dawn. 😎

life as it is these days, while the idea of paradise still seems plausible...

Ah! A country where you can drive on the beaches without bothering anyone—a certain idea of paradise, indeed. We didn’t have a guide for the whales and unfortunately arrived too late.

(Just so you know, my three photos aren’t counted in your 300-photo credit )

That teaser looks mouthwatering! Because, you know, you've gotta publish a travel journal! Those three photos alone tell the story of a trip we'd love to follow along here!

Sunday, October 15, 2023 Exmouth

My old sandals are falling apart and swallowing a ton of pebbles. We hit the shops…

100 AUD for a pair of plastic junk? Seriously? We bought a tube of glue! No joke! At that price, I don’t hesitate—I repair! Then we drove around the peninsula to come back to the west coast and took a little detour inland to Cape Range National Park. In the Mandu Mandu Gorge… We wanted to stretch our legs a bit before tomorrow’s long drive. Bad call! Because the conditions were awful! First, it’s extreme heatwave here!

And the walk offers no shade, just a few shrubs! Plus, today—maybe because of the heat—the flies are way crazier than usual! Relentless. They don’t give you a second’s peace! It’s enough to drive you nuts! A single scratch on my leg sends them into a frenzy! They swarm like mini-piranhas on a piece of meat!

It started off well, though—the landscapes are stunning…

Then soldier Dominique collapsed. Knocked out by the intense heat. She conked out. Refused to move. Sat in the shade of a bush waiting for a helicopter to come get her. We aborted the mission and turned back. The return trip felt loooooooooong!! After that extreme ordeal, we really needed to reach the coast and jump in the water. The closest spot was Oyster Stacks. If you have to pick a snorkeling site in the area, this is the one—no hesitation. It’s like an aquarium! Nothing like the overrated Turquoise Bay!

I told you we also bought a new snorkel with that tube of glue, right?



We’re organized people. We set up routines. For example, after the beach, always…



Then groceries—tonight, another meal cooked up at Ningaloo: smoked salmon, shrimp, and tomato salads…

After that, a debrief meeting was a must. We almost lost a team member again. Gotta be a little more careful… Where’d the orange juice go?

Monday, October 16, 2023 Cheela Plains Station Stay (in the middle of nowhere) We drove a lot. 5 hours 30 minutes! We left the coast to head deep into the outback.



Still, we enjoyed some beautiful landscapes, much richer than along the coast. We stopped by the stunning Ashburton River (which seems to have calmed down a lot flow-wise).

Reds, so much red, yellows, chalk, and occasional blues. Animal carcasses litter the sides—sometimes dingoes, car wrecks, and those infamous road trains, always dangerous because they’re fast and heavy, creating turbulence you’d better be ready for.

We’re chilling, listening to music, then some "Affaires Sensibles" and "Pieds sur Terre" podcasts that really shake things up... With all that, 5 hours 30 minutes? Time flies! We arrive, just as planned, in a place that barely exists—a forgotten corner of the world.



We’re staying in a sort of converted container. It’s tiny, but there’s always a fridge and AC. The bare minimum for survival! The car thermometer is stuck at 43 degrees! Mercy!

In the shared toilets/showers, a sign warns that an open door could result in the involuntary hosting of an unwanted guest.



- A bungarra lizard? What on earth is that?

- !!!!!! Look!!!

In the evening, we climb to the top of a small hill with our orange juice. We thought we were alone, but a whole group of young amateur photographers appeared out of nowhere (we didn’t see them before, and we won’t see them after). They were armed with huge cameras on adjustable tripods, passing around tips—what filter to use and so on. When I pull out my pocket Sony, I swear, they’re gonna be jealous over there!

Then we have dinner with a couple from Perth. The meal is included in the room price. They’re really nice. The four of us notice that even though we live 15,000 kilometers apart, our lives are so similar! Travel, bikes, concerns about the coming catastrophe...

I’ll set aside the series review for now, but we watch when we can in the evenings. We just finished the quite respectable Turkish series *Who Were We Running From?* / *Qui fuyons-nous ?*

Tuesday, October 17, 2023 Karijini National Park We got up early. We always get up early. Quick breakfa Here, the pigeons take way better care of their looks than our ugly birds back home! These are spinifex. We’re told they’re the favorite meal of the Pilbara Olive Python. We lingered a bit to watch this live animal show, then it was back on the road to Karijini. Nearly 3 hours of driving, though.

Karijini is like a geology Disneyland. It’s a wild mix of gaping faults, towering cliffs mostly in laterite red and ochre, waterfalls, pools, and chasms. There’s plenty to feast your eyes on. Tonight, we’re sleeping in the car. Dom and I unfolded our air mattress, folded down the seats—honestly, it seems doable. We headed to Dales Camp where we decided to set up. Around there, we discovered the many natural pools of "Dales Gorge": Fortescue Falls and its neighbor Fern Pool. With temperatures climbing above 40° in the shade, we didn’t play it cool—we jumped right into the water with delight!





Dominique, never one to shy away from thrills, went to change behind the sign "Snakes sighted in this area."



We were even told about... Quolls! We didn’t even know they existed. Apparently, they’re like gremlins and super aggressive!

Today’s checkbox: the enormous bats we can spot in the trees around here.



Stunning 2.5-billion-year-old landscapes, swimming in rock pools... We indulged in the frenzy of it all. Now we’re wondering... We’ll probably do the same kind of thing tomorrow. Four days? Two nights in the car? We decide to head to the eco retreat where I booked two nights at a totally outrageous price. The girl, an Englishwoman, agrees to reschedule the two nights to the upcoming one, plus tomorrow. We’ll head north two days early. We’ll see what we do with them. The first two nights in the car were cowardly avoided. Dom was almost disappointed. Other opportunities will come up. For now, we’re sleeping in a tent! And it’s perfect!

Please, do go on! I’m traveling vicariously through you. From the very first photos—airport, taxi, waiting for the plane, waiting for the bus, hotel room, etc.—I was totally won over! I started by looking at the photos. I’ll read the text later ;)

Thanks so much, I’m thrilled to be traveling with such great company! 😏

I also love seeing the photos! Thanks for this trip... I’m not familiar with this side of Australia.

Wednesday, October 18, 2023 Karijini National Park This tent concept is still pretty cool. The open-air shower/toilets make you feel like you're in direct contact with nature… We decided to visit Hamersley Gorge. A really beautiful spot, but it’s way out there! That’s the norm here—everything is always so far away. If you don’t like driving, Australia isn’t for you! Besides, inside the park, it’s all dirt roads. And not always the smooth kind! We’re taking some serious hits—violent ones! And corrugated roads galore! We’re worried about the car! And when you come across a truck… They don’t hesitate. They don’t have time. The customer’s waiting for their goods! Vroooommmm! They totally ignore you. If they leave a few casualties behind, too bad! Gotta feed the family!

After eating so much dust, the reward is worth it. It’s…

We’re in a tiny world. We ran into our friends we met at Cheela… Bob and Karen.

Then we headed to Kermit Pool. The very best! Though we had to pull off some stunts with our poor car again… We kept seeing little dust devils. One even went right through a tent with real malice!



Kermit Pool, then… It’s a workout! Especially if you’re carrying electronic gear!



Adventure!

It’s a long trek all the way down. With the inevitable exhausting climb back up!… We watched in awe as a young woman made the slow ascent with her baby on her back. Unbelievable! It’s super tough and, at times, pretty sketchy! We chatted, they took our picture, we said our goodbyes, and suddenly, in the space they left, a gorgeous pair of dingoes slipped in! A few seconds of eye contact, and poof—they were gone!



We had our Happy Hour with Bob and Karen. We spotted a dingo going after the campsite trash again…

Thursday, October 19, 2023 Karijini National Park – Port Hedland

Back in France, SFR is starting to get worried. At home, I’ve turned off all their boxes. On their map, it shows up as red dots. They’re sending me intervention offers. Proactive—good for them! The access to Port Hedland is a nightmare. Google Maps forces me to take the awful track from yesterday. Two and a half hours if you drive fast! Then you reach the ONLY gas station on the road at Auski Tourist Village! Bob tells me a truck carrying "chemicals" had exploded, causing damage and deaths. But that was over a week ago. He’s (pretty) sure the road is back open. Bob’s cool. He calls someone at Auski who confirms it. We’re gonna go for it. If that road’s closed, we’re kinda screwed. We don’t have enough gas to turn back to Tom Price. The other station is way off our route. Long story short, it’s intense… We breeze through all the steps. Info, true fact: Google Maps can ruin your day! At Auski, you walk into the shop, leave your passport, then help yourself. No passport, no gas! Anyway, we hit the massive National Highway 95, which heads straight north. It’s free—so far, nothing’s ever cost us for driving. We pass tons of road trains. So many! Crossing them gives you chills, and overtaking them? Even worse! These things are at least 60 meters long! You better have good visibility before you go for it! But hey, we make it through… We stop at a parking lot for a quick break. Dom comes out of the toilets going, "Ugh! I wouldn’t recommend it—it’s disgusting!" I slip behind some kind of container, set my Sony on top to free my hands. Done. And we’re off again! We drive and drive, listening to "History Lessons," then I realize we just broke the temperature record. 44°C! Photooooo! But… where’s the camera? And then—BAM! The flash goes off right in my face! It’s sitting on the container. It’s still back there, in the parking lot! We don’t hesitate. We turn back. Stressed. No waaaay it’ll still be there! I’m driving 150 when the limit’s 110. Whatever. I floor it. I *need* it. Then doubt creeps in. I start thinking it’s gone for good. I suggest to Dom we set a limit, but my girl’s a fighter. She won’t let it go. I’d checked the time. We reached that parking lot in one hour and eleven minutes! One hour eleven against the original direction! There are two huge trucks there. No time to waste! I speed in through the exit side, rush to the container… And then, something surreal happens. Suddenly, the clouds part. An old man looks at me with a knowing smile while a choir of countless angels starts a Beethoven symphony. It’s beautiful. I’m moved to tears. Hallelujah. God *does* exist, and I’m holding the undeniable proof in my hand—a tiny bakelite case! It’s scorching hot, but it turns on right away. Saved!





We finally reach Port Hedland. My advice? Don’t go. It’s ugly, soulless. An industrial town. Boats, trucks, mines, huge piles of salt… The campsite is super uninviting. We were supposed to sleep in the car there…

Given the sketchy surroundings, we decide to skip sleeping in the car *again*. We look for a hotel. There aren’t many. They’re either full or way overpriced! While we’re searching, Dom goes, "Maybe you should inflate that tire?" God! It was deflating! We ask around, get pointed to a repair shop, and—unbelievable Aussie efficiency. A young Aboriginal guy takes my tire off in under a minute, finds the nail (yep, a nail!). The whole repair took less than 10 minutes. The boss takes 50 AUD cash. The kid gets 10. Dom and I are thrilled we got off so lightly. In the end, we end up in a cabin uglier than sin. But it’s got AC, a fridge, and a restaurant!

It’s a place mostly used by miners. They’re rough around the edges. Talking to them is a challenge. It’s nothing like English! Luckily, we’re spotted by an essential French girl traveling around the country and working here as a waitress. It’s a common situation. We run into them everywhere! Girls work as waitresses, guys as gardeners. We met one in Karijini. A really young guy with long hair. "I’m an engineer. I worked in industry in Lyon. In Sydney, I made more money as a gardener than as a project manager in France!"

Adventure !

You’ve really got to be pretty daring to jump into that murky, stagnant water in the "pool" between the two cliffs! Especially after seeing photos of snakes and other critters... I think I would’ve hesitated🤪

Friday, October 20, 2023 Port Hedland Port Hedland is a stopover town. It’s a place with no agenda. Nothing to do? Even better—that’s the whole point, doing nothing. We linger at Blackrock Tourist Park. We hog the pool. The heat is relentless, and the cool water is a blessing.

Around 2 PM, we switch things up and check into the Hospitality. What a difference! The room is spotless, with a sea view—no joke. We quickly head out for a stroll along the beach. We’re quickly captivated by the frequent sight of turtles. Green sea turtles, to be exact. Dozens of them!



These beaches, chosen for turtle nesting, also attract birds of prey. The ones that, when baby turtles make their dash for the ocean, snatch up so many of these tiny, newly hatched creatures—devoured in an instant. Nature’s harsh reality.

Port Hedland is all about the mining industry—road trains hauling ore from the continent’s mines, then massive ships heading out to the world. This isn’t a tourist town. It’s serious business here, heavy-duty stuff!







And then, the rituals. Rituals matter—they ground us in a shared humanity. We all need that. The little things that keep us anchored.

Saturday, October 21, 2023 Port Hedland - Eighty Mile Beach Dom said the turtles come at dawn, when the world’s still asleep, sneaking in to lay their countless eggs, cover them with sand, and slip away. So of course, we had to go see! We found the sea at low tide. Where just yesterday we’d seen those queens swimming along the shore—well, *pfft*! Gone! Just sand and rocks. The sea had pulled back, nothing but a horizontal line in the distance! We went back for lunch. The sun was already beating down hard. Everything’s cracking under the heat!

We’ve got a pool. We chill there, living the easy life—just the two of us, like always. Though something *did* happen. At one point, a young couple showed up. They stripped down, waded into the water up to their waists, and froze in this weird pose, staring intensely at their phones while making these bizarre faces—twisting their lips and all. It went on for about twenty minutes, what I *think* was them taking selfies, without saying a single word. Then they got dressed and left. Silent the whole time. The strange lives of people who aren’t us…

After noon, we hit the road. We follow the coast west. Destination: Broome. But since we’re a day ahead—because we cut our stay in Karjini short—I found us a campsite smack between here and there. The road’s a straight line with nothing on either side. We talk about it because, well, you can’t exactly ignore it—there’s this *something* in the light… Like a thin layer of fog… It’s scorching hot, back up to 44°C, but the light’s just… different. We arrive at the site after an 11-kilometer stretch of dirt road. Another middle-of-nowhere spot. But the distant view of the sea gets us excited—it’s emerald green! We head to reception, where a very friendly woman offers us cabins. We’re just passing through, not expecting much—just a place to sleep and that’s it. We ask for “the cheapest,” she smiles, and we get the “Studio 1.” It’s basically a mobile home. We’re thrilled. Until we find out there’s no beer on-site, no restaurant either, and then comes the final blow: - Where are you headed? - Broome! Just a quick stop! - Oh… You can’t go to Broome right now. The bush is on fire, and the road’s been cut off! - !!!! Well, we didn’t exactly have a choice! Gotta adapt! I call the Eco Lodge for their take, but I get some frazzled girl who gets annoyed by my questions and hangs up. We’ll let the day play out. Tomorrow’s another day. Dom tackles the daunting task of restoring the car to its original color. Then we realize we’re *really* back in Australia. Not the pale imitation we saw in Port Hedland, but the real deal—kangaroos and all those bizarre creatures roaming this continent!



The campsite’s got its share of eccentrics! We’re cracking up!

There are also masked lapwings—kinda ridiculous with their pathetic cries and those silly yellow wattles!

Scattered around, we find whale bones… A monument to the dead from the Vietnam War. Australian politicians sent some of their kids to please American bosses. We went to check out the sea we’d spotted in the distance, only to find it still way out, far from the natural shoreline… There are turtles—I think I see their tracks heading toward the sea…





The sunset is amazing! We buy some limp noodles in a disgusting sweet tomato sauce that’s enough to make you gag, but hey, we eat, crack open some orange juice, and manage to survive. We finish an Australian series—total coincidence, I swear—*Love Me*, a feel-good dramedy that’s sweet as pie, harmless, but skippable…

Later… Good evening, I was speaking to you earlier when the call dropped—I do apologize, the line was really bad. At this stage, the only advice I can give is to follow DFES’s directions. The fire isn’t directly affecting us, but if Emergency Services say the road is closed, that’s the advice you need to follow. Things can change quickly—my suggestion is to contact DFES tomorrow morning for the most up-to-date information. Please provide an Australian contact number so I can call and touch base with you tomorrow.

Kind regards, Corrina Feild

Guest Experience Manager

Sunday, October 22, 2023 Eighty Mile Beach - Eco Beach Wilderness Retreat Broome I wake up early. Very early. The perfect chance to witness the village being overrun by jumping bandits. They’re everywhere. Birds too. In droves.

Unfortunately, the flies ruin all the fun. They’re super annoying this morning—hysterical, even. So much so that I put my net back on. Then Dom shows up. She’s on her morning turtle mission. So we head to the playa.

Too late. Their tracks in the sand show intense activity! They dot the beach as far as the eye can see!

We then check the sites reporting on the road conditions. At wake-up, it was still listed as blocked. Dom and I strategize with "ifs" and "thens." We’re convinced we’ll spend at least one more night here. Not a hardship—it’s truly a little slice of paradise. The only downside is the inevitably awful food. We have a barbecue and consider buying their frozen meat.

Then things clear up. The highway is announced as reopened. The light turns green. Let’s gooooooo!

Almost a little disappointed to leave 80 Mile.

50 kilometers later, THE station in the region.

We run into the characteristic fire brigade lieutenant—his cap, stripes, and sunglasses—mid-radio briefing. He tells us the road is fully usable now but to watch out for possible flare-ups. Then it’s back to vroom vroom for nearly 3 hours. Dead animals by the roadside, reptiles including a big lizard I barely avoid! We drive through vast scorched expanses. Smoke, occasional flames—nothing worrying except for a few minutes in thick smoke that could’ve been the dreaded reignition.

But once we’re through, the fire’s gone—we finish the trip on a completely safe road. There’s a 20-kilometer track of laterite and sand on the last stretch. A gate we open without hesitation, and then finally, the eco lodge. We arrive in an unprecedented season of *White Lotus*. It’s ostentatious luxury and obligatory indulgence—an infinity pool, emerald sea. At reception, Corrina, the one I’d already had some back-and-forth with about blocked roads, a kid of today—tattoos, nose ring, fake lashes, extremely skinny—offers us yoga sessions, fishing trips. We cut her off; we have no demands other than to be left alone. She acknowledges with a knowing smile. We won’t be the tourists dropping wads of cash in our wake. Oh well. There’ll be others.

We have a tent like the one in Karijini but with a nice suspended terrace.



And frogs in the bathroom!

It’s immediately clear we’re going to like this place. There’s even a communal puzzle!

We explore, happy hour starts at 3:30 PM, we soak in the pool. We’re alone. As always. We dine at the only restaurant—a non-negotiable monopoly. We’re hungry. We both order the 300-gram sirloin with a Shiraz. We’ve definitely burned through more cash than our budget allowed, but we talked it over with Dominique—we’re on the same page. Life’s too short, and we probably won’t get another chance like this.

Thanks for your encouragement. "The other side" is coming! 😏