Albania in Autumn Colors (page 3 of 6)

I can already smell the wine, save me a glass!! I had no idea the landscapes in this country were so beautiful—the colors are stunning in autumn.

Smells like wine, I'm on my way—save me a glass!!

There we go! I said I would!

Would it be fair to say I’m no longer up for following conversations? There’s some training going on around here 🤼

What it would’ve been like if I’d included photos of wine bottles...

It’s coming...

---/---

I loved the Valbonë Valley in its autumn hues. It’s gorgeous and still so authentic.

Hello! I’m jumping in a bit late (see my comment about alerts during my last trip), as Albania was on my “why not?” destinations list. The autumn colors are gorgeous, but given how this discussion has turned lately, I’m more tempted to sign up for an oenology course than an Albania trip 😏😏😏.

Hi Muriel,

Yeah, I think some of the participants are a bit rowdy! 😄

Hi Muriel,

Yeah, I think some participants are getting a bit rowdy! 😄

Not sure why, but I feel called out 😊 Well, if we can’t indulge in a few tangents about travel journals, then I’ll just keep quiet 😠😉 That said, I don’t have an opinion on the "Bravo" cans 😄

You and Agnès make quite the pair 😉 always the first ones to hit the booze 😏

In the morning, we leave the stunning Valbonë Valley behind, heading for a completely different vibe since tonight we’ll be sleeping in Tirana, a city of 560,000 people...

The small roads soon give way to a four-lane highway and the country’s only toll booth.

Oddly enough, the amount is in euros!

We say our temporary goodbyes to the tranquility of the countryside and recharge before tackling the city.

Our lodging is a bit outside the center, so I program its address into my GPS.

We take this big boulevard—it shouldn’t be much farther!

If only there were no construction or traffic jams...

Driving is pretty chaotic; it’s a bit of a survival of the fittest out there.

I cross my fingers, hoping the cars crowding us from all sides don’t scratch the paint, and I’m pretty relieved when we finally arrive safe and sound!

The owner of the hotel takes care of parking and then shows us to our room, which was clearly renovated recently, just like the rest of the place.

It’s clean, modern, and quiet—what more could you ask for at this price?

It’s a nice change from the U.S., where motels often haven’t been updated in ages and have terrible acoustics... all at insane prices.

After dropping off our luggage, we head to the city center to get a feel for Tirana.

Mosques, a few skyscrapers, an Orthodox cathedral, and a pyramid originally built in honor of the dictator Hoxha...













A pleasant stroll, but nothing mind-blowing!

The sun sets, and we wander among the fruit and vegetable stalls before heading to check out the city’s beautifully lit stadium.





Time for dinner, right?

Our choice wasn’t the best.

A delicious cocktail saved what was a rather expensive (for the country) and not very filling meal.

Good night...

This leg of the journey in the metropolis is over.

We’re hitting the road again for a less stressful Albania for drivers.

We’ll soon arrive in Elbasan, a fairly important industrial city that draws tourists thanks to its Ottoman castle—a walled district where it’s pleasant to stroll.



As is often the case in Albania, parking spots are either tight or packed. So we fall back on the local specialty: private land turned into a makeshift parking lot!



Simple, effective, and guarded—though not exactly cheap (well, by the country’s standards... For a Parisian, it’s a steal!)

The historic heart of the city is deserted, and our walk among the old stones isn’t disturbed by the hustle and bustle of crowds of tourists fresh off a cruise ship or double-decker bus.





The mosque appears closed, but not the charming Orthodox Church of St. Mary.





We’re treated to a guided tour in a mix of incomprehensible languages by an elderly woman who won’t forget to ask for a contribution to the upkeep of the place...

We decide to head out into the countryside for a late lunch.





The meal will be long and hearty, but we’re starving and not in any rush.

Our destination for the day is close by, and we should actually see it after this turn.



Welcome to the shores of Lake Ohrid, the deepest lake in the Balkans! !

If you turn left, you’ll quickly reach North Macedonia.

For our part, we’re staying in Albania and heading to the village of Lin, our stop for the evening.



The room we booked has a lovely view of the lake, and our vehicle is finally comfortable since our host has the keys to the church’s large parking lot.



We reserve our dinner and then take a stroll through the village and along the Lin peninsula.



No one else is around to disturb the serenity of the place except for a few donkeys and a local teen who’s also taking a moment to enjoy the quiet and smoke a cigarette in the setting sun. We’re in heaven—it’s paradise!











Back at the guesthouse, the stuffed peppers are served.

I hope you’re hungry...



Bon appétit !

What amazing discoveries. Felt like we were the only tourists there. The dishes are always hearty—you’ve gotta have a serious appetite! 😅😋

There’ll be a few more people at some stops, but overall, you could really tell we were out of season! We traveled during the school term, though.

I’ve been talking about these doughnuts served for breakfast for so long—here they are!

Two or three every morning on top of the rest, and hunger won’t catch up with you for hours...



We’re now following the lake shores all the way to the beaches of Pogradec.







The buzz of the summer season has died down, and the town has been returned to its locals.



We then discover a new way to handle parking payments: a municipal officer on a bike who appears to collect the fee as soon as the car is parked.

We’ll keep the ticket we received in exchange for a few lekë safe.



In this off-season, the sand isn’t cleaned, and the spots don’t exactly make you dream of laying out your towel.



But to get a feel for Albania, it’s perfect!

Just a few kilometers as the crow flies separate Lake Ohrid from Lake Prespa.

We’re at the crossroads of three countries here: Albania, North Macedonia, and Greece.





The village of Pustec is completely asleep, but the restaurant we spotted seems open.

How about lunch on the terrace?



Today, we’ll be trying baked cheese with tomato and herbs...

An hour later and 50 kilometers farther on, we reach Voskopojë, a small mountain village famous for its churches with magnificent frescoes, testaments to a glorious past.

All of this reminds me of Romania!

Unfortunately, we often find doors closed, and unlike the monasteries in Bucovina, the murals are badly damaged.













We head back to Korçë, a municipality whose name shouldn’t be unfamiliar to beer lovers...

Since 1928, Birra Korça has been brewed here—a beer you can order at café counters across the country.

The hotel we booked is as charming as it is affordable. For 44 € including lunch, what more could you ask for?

We rest a bit, then explore the old heart of the city.

A few streets have been restored to create a lively commercial area, but the cost of renting a storefront must be too high, as many shop windows remain empty.





The bars and restaurants, however, seem to be doing just fine!

I’ll let you enjoy some local specialties—both liquid and solid—and catch you tomorrow...

Today’s itinerary is packed with small roads.





Yet we’re adding a detour.

I just found out there’s a ski resort in the area, and I’m really curious what it looks like!

Of course, there’s no snow—it’s not the season yet.

But the chalets and facilities definitely give off that cozy vibe of a small French ski station.



The owner of the resort is tinkering around. He stops to chat for a bit, and when he learns our nationality, he proudly shows us the latest lift they installed.

A donation from Courchevel that opens all the doors of the resort for us.





Our turn for a guided tour of the ski lodge!

We continue our journey south afterward.

Eventually, we follow the Sarantaporos River, which forms a natural border between Greece and Albania here.



I wouldn’t risk crossing these bridges just to sip some ouzo...



On the other hand, this spot looks perfect for lunch!

No sooner said than done...

The little eatery we found has an owner who won’t let her customers leave hungry.



So we’re ordered to try the salad, byrek, moussaka, tzatziki, homemade bread, and as if that weren’t enough, cake—*the* kind that really sticks to your ribs...

Okay, so Albania isn’t exactly a light destination when it comes to food—I don’t know why, but I had a feeling!

Hey Agnès, wouldn’t you find us a little hike to do, just to digest a bit?

Perfect timing—I’d planned a stop at the Ottoman bridge of Kadiut. After that, we can head into the Langarica canyon by walking along the river!

The afternoon isn’t the best time to come here, and the gorge will soon be in the shade.

Plus, the place isn’t as deserted as it used to be—you can tell the beach resorts are within day-trip distance!





Still, it’s really nice to stretch our legs in such a setting.







Our evening stop is now just around the corner—the little town of Përmet, nestled along the Vjosa River.

The accommodation we booked will be the only misstep of this trip.

The room is clean and has everything we need, but the place has no charm and is right by the road...

We’ll sleep well—that’s what matters!

Dinner in town was a chance to learn a bit more about Përmet.





And most importantly, to stumble upon what would’ve been a much better choice for the night!



Though it wasn’t the same price...

Okay, so Albania probably isn’t the best destination for foodies looking for light cuisine...

Yeah, maybe not the best place to start a diet! !

Okay, so Albania probably isn’t the best destination for light eating when it comes to food...

Yeah, it might not be the best place to start a diet! 😄

But no! Food + hiking = 0 kilos.