New Walks from Jodhpur to Narnaul (Feb 24) (page 3 of 5)

Of course, Marie Jo, we're still here, but what else can I say except it's beautiful, it's beautiful, it's beautiful 🤗 Oh, right—because of you, I’ll have to go back to Rajasthan at least 2 or 3 more times 😄 Christelle

Sorry, but I really feel like a total newbie—I’ve never been to India, and it wasn’t even on my radar until these recent travel journals... I’m a bit lost 😅

To get back at me, you could ask Pagal to explain the difference between a cheetah and a leopard

Sorry, I really feel like a total newbie—I’ve never been to India, and it wasn’t even on my radar until these recent travel journals... I’m a bit lost 😅

To get back at me, you could ask Pagal to explain the difference between a cheetah and a leopard

Good one, Kate 😄

I was afraid I’d lost you all in the middle of all those temples and that you’d gotten tired of it. I speak a little English and understand it so-so, but I manage to get by everywhere—that’s not bad. In remote places, I ask the hotel to write down where I want to go for the bus or rickshaw, and the system works out just fine 🤷‍♂️😁☺️

I'm sorry to put you through such a hassle. Well, stay a little longer—the Shekhawati region should give you a reason to come back to this area! 🤗😊🤙

I was afraid I’d lost you all in the middle of all those temples and that you’d gotten tired of it. I babble a little English and understand it so-so, but I manage to get by everywhere—that’s not bad. In isolated places, I ask the hotel to write down where I want to go for the bus or rickshaw; the "figure-it-out" system works 🤝😁☺️

Well, your "figure-it-out" system is on point because you’re doing really well! 👍

I was afraid I’d lost you all among all those temples and bored you.

Comments are a double-edged sword: they can encourage, please, and show attention to the story, but they can also break the flow and sometimes annoy when they’re too long or ill-timed. You’ve gotta find the right balance 🙂

"You’ve got to find the right balance." That’s exactly it. See you tomorrow for the next part!😊☀️

To get back at him, you could ask Pagal to tell you the difference between a cheetah and a leopard LOL

I know because this summer I visited the Jawai Bandh leopard sanctuary in Rajasthan 😛

Hi Marie Jo

I still follow your lovely travel journal, just not daily since we’re in India right now 😊😆

You mentioned the havelis of Shekhawati. A few years ago, we visited Nadine le Prince’s haveli in Fatehpur—a French painter who beautifully restored her haveli, but I’m not sure if it’s still open to visitors today.

PS. I thought of you last night while eating at Hari Garh 😊😋 (Udaipur).

"You're talking about the havelis of Shekhawati. We were able to visit the one belonging to Nadine le Prince in Fatehpur a few years ago." "Unfortunately, it's closed now, and I think it's for sale. I hope you had a good dinner at HariGarh. Enjoy Udaipur! 🥰😊🙏",

Nawalgarh I spent the day here on February 8th. The bus stops at a small square before the bazaar. Before starting the visits, I’ll give a bit of background on the havelis of Shekhawati. "In the 18th and 19th centuries, Marwari merchants settled and prospered in India’s new commercial hubs: Bombay and Calcutta. They sent most of their immense fortunes back to their families in Shekhawati to build grand havelis, showing off their success to neighbors and compensating their families for their long absences. As more merchants thrived, constructing ever more grandiose buildings (houses, temples, stepwells) richly decorated inside and out with murals became a competition. Havelis’ walls, especially at the entrance, in courtyards, and sometimes in certain rooms, were often painted from floor to eaves. The paintings often blended depictions of gods and their lives with everyday scenes featuring modern inventions like trains and planes—even though the artists themselves had never seen them. So, Krishna and Radha are shown in flying cars, and Europeans can be seen inflating hot-air balloons by blowing into them. Today, most havelis belong to the descendants of the original families but aren’t lived in by the owners. Many are occupied by caretakers or local families. Only a few have been restored, while many are abandoned and slowly crumbling."

With that explanation out of the way, I can start the visits. I walk along the street lined with private, closed havelis. I head to Morarka Haveli (entry: 100 Rs). A young guy approaches me—he’s not a guide but wants to accompany me on the visits. He seems friendly, so I accept his offer. It’ll make visiting easier since the havelis are scattered throughout the old city. The façade of Morarka Haveli is quite weathered.



The entrance to havelis is often through a large, massive door that’s locked, and you pass through a smaller door carved into it to access the first courtyard—the men’s courtyard (mardana). This area is usually highly decorated to impress visitors. On the walls, you’ll often see frescoes of various gods: Ganesh (god of wealth), Krishna is also very present.



There’s a fresco of Christ on the exterior façade and inside, among the frescoes in the first courtyard.





As well as floral frescoes, Maharajahs, and British figures.





Upstairs, the frescoes are also stunning.



The inner courtyard is reserved for women. The small rooms on the sides are for kitchens.

I continue with the Haveli Podar (120r), a spectacular building turned into a museum. It features over 800 frescoes. Before becoming a museum, this haveli was a school. What a lucky break for those who got to study in such a dreamlike place.





The main gate (Le Mukhya Dwar) is the gigantic entrance door. On either side of the gates, the guard corner is called the *gokha*.



The door separating the public courtyard from the private courtyard is unique and grand. The gilded doors contrast with the teak wood frame. Above it is a depiction of Ganesh (the god of wealth). The door sits in an alcove adorned with frescoes. I spot a merchant doing business and a boat representing overseas trade.





Ganesh in miniature within the red and gold frames.



The courtyards of this haveli. The first courtyard, the entrance courtyard, is the men’s courtyard, reserved for visitors. Nowadays, newlyweds come here to have their photos taken.



The office or *baithak*. This room exudes a royal atmosphere. The manual fan was operated by a servant who was usually deaf and mute, just so the secrets discussed in the room wouldn’t be revealed outside. The accountant stayed in another small side room, along with the treasure chest (*Diwan Khana*).



The *baithak* also served as a reception room. Just above, the alcoves were closed off by curtains, allowing the women of the house to listen to the discussions without being seen.



The second courtyard, the private courtyard reserved for women, is European in style.

(continuation of the visit)

In the frescoes, you can see the train, and above it, a procession of men and women—some with musical instruments, others dancing.



The boat and hot-air balloons being inflated by blowing, as well as cars, are also present.



Krishna playing the flute with Radha and the shepherdesses flying kites.





As well as Vishnu.

And don’t forget Ganesh.



It’s impossible to notice and detail them all, but it’s fascinating. We head toward the bazaar and take a narrow alley where Bhagton Ki Haveli is located (entry 100 rs). This house is also interesting. You’ll find boats, bicycles, and the British there.





A European with a cane and a pipe, and a dog on his shoulder.

A woman playing the accordion.

(continued) here too, Christ is depicted in various places





the doors and windows are adorned with frescoes





We walk through several alleys and arrive at Ath Havelis (8 havelis) which are nestled into one another. They’re private and not open for visits.



I’m having lunch on a terrace at a great restaurant my guide knows (dosa, the sambar is excellent, I’m loving it)



I remember visiting a temple where the entrance is through an inner courtyard where the caretaker lives. It’s the Shiva temple, and you still access it the same way. The caretaker welcomes us, she gives me a banana before showing me around. To get there, you climb a staircase that leads to a terrace where the temple is located, and she asks me to offer 50 rs as a donation.

(continuation and end of the visit to Nawalgarh)

The visits conclude at Nawalgarh Fort, the Bala Kila. It’s located at the end of the market. All that remains of this fort is a single room, the hidden chamber, the Sheesh Mahal. The Palace of Mirrors is on the 2nd floor of the restaurant. It’s a circular room adorned with mirrors, inlaid glass, gilding, and frescoes. A marvel, one more to add to the list!!





This room once served as a dressing room for the Maharanis. No one knows why this room survived. Perhaps because of its richness, with its miniature paintings and inlaid mirrors. On the ceiling, you can find the plans of the cities of Jaipur and Nawalgarh.





Before leaving Bhaiku, my very friendly guide, we enjoy a pastry, and then he walks me to the bus. Since our day in Nawalgarh, he’s been keeping in touch—such a kind encounter.



Back to Mandawa, happy after such a wonderful day.

Friday, Feb 9. I’m spending the day in Lohargal, located 27 km from Nawalgarh. From Mandawa, I’ve got an immediate bus, I change at Nawalgarh, and have to wait half an hour for the one to Lohagal. I get off at an intersection and take a rickshaw for the last 5 km. Lohargal is a pilgrimage site at the foot of the Aravalli hills. There’s a reservoir of holy water where pilgrims who can’t afford to go all the way to Varanasi come to wash away their sins. According to the myth, a powerful and vast army of Pandavas came to bathe here after their glorious victory on the battlefield, only to find their weapons and armor dissolving in the water. Lohargal means "Loha" (iron) + "Gal" (melt) – "melts iron."





To reach the reservoir, I walk along alleys lined with shops selling different pickles and offering items.



I stop at several small temples, and outside, families consult astrologers and priests who perform little ceremonies.



The atmosphere is really nice in this non-touristy place. I have fun taking their photos and showing them back—it always amuses everyone, and we all laugh.



By the reservoir, men bathe on one side and women on the other. The water’s color isn’t exactly inviting, and the ghats are packed—so many people!!





A few purchases before heading back. The mango pickles here are famous and really popular.



Waiting for the shared rickshaw with the families.





Lohargal is a place to remember—it’s really great, I love these vibes, and it’s hardly known to tourists.

(End of Lohargal) I get dropped off 4 km away near Chetan Ki Baori (yet another one!!). It’s in bad shape here too, sadly used as a public dump.





I head back to the bus stop, and in Nawalgarh, I take a bus to Dundlod, a place I don’t know yet. I visit the fort—part of it is open to visitors, while the other part has been turned into a heritage hotel. It’s a masterpiece of Rajput architecture.



The rooms I visit are stunning and beautifully furnished.





Wandering through the streets, I make my way to Bhagirath Mal Goenka Haveli, which served as the residence for the Goenka family in the 18th century. This haveli is also rich in frescoes. Here’s the exterior:





The haveli and its inner courtyard with a beautiful door.





Now it’s time to head back to Mandawa for my last evening after another wonderful day.

Saturday, Feb 10. The Shekhawati Hotel is really nice, the staff is always attentive—it’s a great place to stay in Mandawa. I take the bus at 9:20 AM for Mahensar. I have to go through Bissau and change buses. I’m lucky because I don’t wait too long. In Mahensar, the bus drops me off at the side of the road—it’s in the middle of nowhere, and I don’t know how to get to the fort that’s been turned into a hotel. A man in his shop sees me and offers his services. He goes to get his car and drives me to this old fort. It’s the first time I’ve stayed in a fort, and this one is very run-down.

When I arrive, I’m greeted by the Maharaja and his family. Outside, the staff is busy—there’s a small wedding of 200 people tonight. They don’t put me in the room I booked because of the noise but in room No. 1, the largest, which will also be noisy since the windows overlook the courtyard where the wedding will take place.

This room is unique—I have a large living room, alcoves in an open courtyard, the bathroom on the side, and at the back of the room, a large bedroom. It’s huge; you could make an apartment out of it. The description sounds dreamy, but you’ll see—it’s as worn-in as the fort itself!







If you’re looking for authenticity, this is the place to come, but for comfort, it’s better to go further into another village.

The Maharaja offers me the services of a young guide, Mudita, to visit Ramgarh this afternoon, then Mahensar, Bissau, and Choru tomorrow. I leave to meet her by bus in Ramgarh, and an employee takes me to the bus stop, where I have to wait nearly an hour.

Here in Ramgarh, opium and cotton trading used to take place. The Poddar family founded Ramgarh in 1791 and, along with other wealthy merchants, built havelis, chhatris, and schools. I meet up with Mudita, a charming young woman who specializes in guiding in the Shekhawati region—she travels from Nawalgarh to Churu. We start the visits with the Ganga Mai Mandir.



From there, we continue through the alleys, and she takes me to private homes with a secret room where they store wood for cooking. This dark room has magnificent frescoes depicting various epics, the Maharaja’s travels, deities—it’s stunning.







We continue and visit the Ram Gopal Poddar chhatris (1872). It’s a funerary complex made up of 4 pavilions adorned with over 500 frescoes inside the domes.







The bus back to Mahensar isn’t regular, and I have to wait an hour—it’s a bit long. Back at the fort, everyone is busy with wedding preparations. The night will be very noisy—music and fireworks until midnight, and at 4 AM, music from the temple. I’m starting to get used to it; the first night in my new hotels is often noisy since the start of the trip.

Sunday, Feb 11. After a good breakfast, Mudita picked me up and we left at 9 AM for the day. We started our visits here in Mahansar. From the chhatris, we had a beautiful view of the fort.



We continued with Sone Chandi Ki Dukan, the Poddar boutique house with paintings from floor to ceiling.



The entrance, the golden room, mainly in red and gold colors. The ceilings depict the epics of the Ramayana as well as other Indian stories.





The colors are natural: gold, indigo, turmeric, malachite. This room is reserved for business. The second room, more subdued, is used for storage and money deposits.



Nearby is Tolaram haveli, another very interesting house with high ceilings and a colonial style. It was built to host European guests. It served as a guesthouse because they couldn’t enter private homes. Today, it’s reserved for weddings.



We went to the bus stop for Bissau. We waited a long time, and since the bus wasn’t coming, Mudita hitchhiked, and a car stopped quickly, so we could finally leave. Bissau isn’t an interesting town; we quickly explored it. Fortunately, buses are regular to reach Churu, 15 km away.