From Delhi to Agra and the extraordinary stay in Chhattisgarh (page 3 of 4)

Today we're heading to Chitrakoot Falls. Along the way, we're making lots of stops. I'm still amazed by the loads women carry on their heads.



The landscapes are stunning—this region is truly disorienting, bewildering, full of mystery. I love it, and every day Awesh shows me more of local life. I'm really "lucky," as he likes to tease me all the time.



Awesh takes us to another cemetery in the forest. The tombs here are also painted, featuring family homes, animals, and dancers. The date of death is mentioned, and some have sculptures of figures.



You can also see totems here.

Every day, we enjoy great moments in these colorful markets with such a fun atmosphere.



The tattoos are always beautiful, but sadly, young women have abandoned this tradition, which risks disappearing over time.





The landscapes deserve a photo stop—this place is really beautiful. The vehicles are packed.



Awesh takes us to a family he knows and ordered lunch for us. When we arrive, the women are cooking. They’ve prepared sals leaves to use as containers and place them in the embers. The chicken inside will cook gently.



On the menu: rice, dhal, and chicken—everything is delicious.

We spend the afternoon at Chitrakoot Falls and take a boat ride to get closer to the waterfalls—the spray lightly showers us.

Today we visited an artisan village where they make the famous Dhokra items we still haven’t seen in the markets. Tribal Dhokra art is truly unique. It’s based on the ancient lost-wax technique, used for casting metal alloys like brass and bronze. The artisans here use traditional tools and handcrafted methods to create Dhokra pieces. The sculptures often depict animals, tribal deities, Hindu gods and goddesses, and abstract patterns. Dhokra art has existed for over 4,000 years. The technique used for making brass statues is still the lost-wax method. Every step of the process is done by hand with basic tools. It takes great skill and dexterity to achieve. The work is done as a family outdoors—some handle the clay, others the modeling, wax work, or firing.

In the past, they produced utilitarian objects like kitchen utensils, coat racks, and candle holders. Today, Dhokra art is increasingly recognized for its artistic value, and they now create more animal statues, deities, and scenes of daily life, like women carrying jars on their heads. It’s fascinating to watch them work.



We continued our morning at a new market where cockfights take place. The women are always present with their jars of mahua.



The weekly market lets women gather and spend the day chatting. They come with their children.



Many women wear a headscarf, and their outfits are always very colorful.







You can also find Dhokra items and traditional clothing at this market.





We returned early since we’re invited to dinner at Awesh’s place. His wife is making us chicken biryani with dal. We’re going to buy some fruit and sweets for their kids at the market near the hotel.

Really interesting trip... It's true that you're lucky!

I’ve dreamed about it for a long time after returning.

A little explanation before continuing. I’d like to recount the day before my departure.

During a festival, the shamans would sit on a chair with nails—here’s what it means. The chair with nails and the swing belong to the local goddesses to display their power most of the time. Here, at the festival, the shaman enters a trance, dressed in clothes representing the goddess. He becomes powerful and can sit on this chair to represent her and bless the people.



https://Lepetitjournal.com Escape into Chhattisgarh State among the Adivasis (Indigenous people of India) A very interesting read.

We continue our adventure, and Raja wants to show me an animist temple with terracotta animals.



The horses are well represented too.



One of them is quite special.



With its wings. That was the surprise Raja wanted to share with me—thank you to him for all these discoveries. After returning, I dreamed about this fabulous trip for a long time, and today, by publishing it here, I realize just how lucky I was with all these visits.

We take a break in a village where there’s some activity at the temple. The women are preparing the first ceremony for a wedding. In their baskets, they have rice, turmeric, oil, incense, and they’re building a sort of "altar" for the ceremony with turmeric mixed with water and clay. They spread this paste around a sacred tree—often basil—and bless it with rice and incense.



We’re not the only curious ones, and these little kids are adorable.



The women leave the temple in a single file, water jugs balanced on their heads, and walk all the way to the home of one of the future spouses’ families.





We follow them, but along the way, we pass a house with a lot of activity. Awesh goes inside and signals for us to join him. Here too, a wedding is being prepared, and we’re about to witness the second phase before the ceremony. It’s amazing—I’m really feeling "lucky"!

I’m welcomed by this little group—they’re so cute!







The women are preparing the pitcher ceremony. They cover the pitcher with a clay-turmeric paste and plant rice grains all around it.



They carefully place the rice around the pitcher.



We get back in the car and head to another village to witness another pre-wedding ritual: the blessing of the couple before the big ceremony. I can honestly say I’m so lucky to experience these incredible moments—it’s truly amazing. When we arrive, the pitchers are stacked against the sacred tree. The base around the tree has been redone with the clay-turmeric mixture.



We’re invited inside the house. The groom-to-be is sitting on the floor with his mother behind him. He’s wearing a headpiece that covers his face, and his mother drapes the end of her sari over his head. His feet rest on a bamboo stand, and on the floor are a jar of holy water, incense, rice, and a ghee lamp. He holds a small flag in his hands.



The blessing begins with the priest, then a woman wets her hands in the pitcher, touches the groom’s feet, knees, shoulders, head, and chin, and repeats the process while adding a bit of turmeric paste. The ritual continues until the groom-to-be is covered from head to toe in the paste. It’s great for the skin ;)



Once he’s thoroughly coated, he goes to sit outside at the foot of the sacred tree, and the women pour the pitchers of water over him from head to toe to purify him.



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The same process is carried out for the future bride.





A woman carries her on her back at the level of the second sacred wood. The turmeric application takes place outside, and the women have fun putting turmeric on each other’s faces—we won’t escape it either. It’s very friendly. The bride will also be thoroughly washed.





Once clean, she’s brought back inside the house and carried in a wicker basket by the women.



After this step, they repeat the process with the bride and groom, one behind the other—they’ll be nice and clean for the wedding ceremony. Turmeric is great for the skin, so why not? 😉 The women apply it to each other, and we won’t escape it either.



The ceremonies take place with music.



We won’t be staying for the rest of the ceremony, but as we leave, the groom’s mother comes to thank us for our presence and gives each of us a gift—a scarf for the men and a sari for me. Incredible! We don’t know them, we just showed up at their place, and we leave with a present. We have to go to a festival where the horse is venerated. We’re early, and we can’t wait. They still agree to show us the horse, adorned with all its decorations—flowers, fabrics—for the ceremony.



While waiting for the horse to come out, I take some photos with the men.

Women are never far away here. They have different hairstyles, always with jewelry and tattoos, and the way they wear their saris is also unique.





And here’s the decorated horse, revered like a god, to whom offerings are made.





We hit the road again—it’ll be a long drive to Raipur. We drop Awesh off at a bus stop since he’s heading back to Jagdalpur. The end of the trip is near.

Unfortunately, I don’t think many people are interested in this

Well, *I’m* really interested! I’d already spotted this region—it’s totally unique—and actually mentioned it to Rajat when we traveled with him. Adding Uttar Pradesh was a great idea; it balances the trip by bringing in a "monuments" side.

Anyway, just a few more photos before you head off to explore other lands—I wouldn’t mind 🙂 Or you can pick it up again when you get back 😉

Thanks again, and congrats on your travel journal

Hello Marie-Jo,

You’re showing me a whole new side of India. And introducing me to new words—mahua, sals leaves, for example. This travel journal, much like your others but even more so this one, is completely unique on this forum, and it’s a real pleasure to read you and look at your photos. Fascinating!

Dom

Just back from my latest trip, I’ll take the time to finish this one before posting my most recent adventures.

Saturday, March 2nd We head to Sirpur, a small town 70 km from Raipur. Between the 4th and 8th centuries, Sirpur was a major religious, commercial, and cultural center. In the 12th century, the city was destroyed by an earthquake and abandoned. A flood in the 14th century deposited layers of mud over this heritage, hiding it from view. Visit to the Buddhist temples of Sirpur. At Surang Tila, the scale of the earthquake that destroyed the city is still visible. Excavations took place in 2006, and the entire site was covered with massive trees. The whole structure leans to the east, and the back is supported by rods to prevent it from tilting further. Today, you can no longer climb onto the temple terrace.





The first excavations in Sirpur took place in 1950. At that time, they discovered 5 monasteries and a monolithic Buddha sculpture. Excavations resumed in the 2000s, leading to major discoveries: Buddha Viharas, Jain Viharas, monolithic Buddha statues, 22 Shiva temples and 5 Vishnu temples, an Ayurvedic treatment center, an underground market, and a *snaankund* (ancient spa). A *Budh Vihar* is a temple and residence similar to Western monasteries. You’ll find some beautiful sculptures there.



Shiva and Parvati



Buddha



Sirpur Market The market has wide, planned roads and is divided into sectors based on the types of goods sold. There was a gold market, a grain market, one for iron, etc. The market also included places of worship and an Ayurvedic hospital.





The old granary. Underground granaries were built, then covered and protected by stone slabs.

The Baleshwar temple. It was recently excavated. It was named in honor of King Mahashivgut Balarjun, who is said to be the visionary behind the construction of this complex, and he reportedly built other sanctuaries in Sirpur. Two Shiva temples stand side by side, which the king had built for his two wives. The main sanctuary was shaped like a six-pointed star and resembles a star. Buddha Viharas, couples in love, and ram fights.







The Laxman temple is the best preserved. This temple is made of brick, and its pillars feature numerous sculptures.





From there, we head to Rajim, a holy site where the Kumbh Mela takes place. It happens every year and lasts 15 days. When we arrived, we found a huge crowd, and navigating through the fair with its many rides was quite an adventure. The Rajiva Lochana temple is the main temple of the complex. It’s built in the panchayatana style (5 temples). The main temple stands on a platform, with the four other temples at each corner. The main entrance is through a portico supported by two pillars and two pilasters, which are adorned with sculptures. At the end of this portico is a beautifully carved door.





Vishnu



Varaha



Narasimha



We return to Raipur for our last evening. Tomorrow, we leave—Raja and Praveen are heading back to Trichy, and I’m returning to Delhi.

Sunday, March 3 I’ve never visited the National Craft Museum, and this year I’m determined to check it out. I noted that the nearest metro station is Supreme Court—I just need to get there.

It’s true that it’s really pleasant to walk around; part of it is outdoors and the other part indoors. I spend some time there and come across winged horses.





I only photograph a few pieces, but I’m sure I’ll come back when I’m in Delhi again.



On my list of places to visit, I’ve also noted Purana Qila Fort, which is near the Nursery Garden that I visited and loved last year, as well as Humayun’s Tomb. The entrance is through a large gate (Bara Darwaza).



The inside of the fort is mostly a place to walk around peacefully, surrounded by trees, lawns, and a few monuments.



The best-preserved building in the fort is the mosque (Qila-i-Kohna).





Sher Mandal This is an octagonal two-story tower that served as a library and observatory. It was built by Babur for his son Humayun, and Humayun is said to have died tragically here after falling down the stairs headfirst.



Humayun Gate to the south



the Talaqi Gate (Forbidden Gate) to the north

The next day, I continue my visits and take the metro to Central Secretariat, where the ministries and parliament are located. The Republic Day celebration takes place on this avenue, which is grand and lined with lawns and canals.





It’s really pleasant to walk up this pedestrian avenue all the way to India Gate, which looks like the Arc de Triomphe.



the ministries





the parliament



From there, I continue on foot to Agrasen Ki Baoli.

In the afternoon, I take the metro to Qutab Minar station and go for a stroll in the Mehrauli Archaeological Park. I love coming here—it’s so peaceful, discovering the monuments.



Rajon Ki Baoli is a well connected to a mosque and a tomb.





A mosque.





Tombs.







Back to the hotel for my last night. My trip ends here. This journey was extraordinary from the first to the last day. I want to thank my friend Raja and the guide Awesh, who made it possible for me to experience all these unforgettable moments. On July 25, 2024, Raja called to share some very sad news—the passing of Awesh, aged 45, which deeply affected me. I think of him often and of how this trip wouldn’t have been the same without him. Thank you, Awesh, for everything. My thoughts are with your wife and children, whom we met and for whom life must be so difficult now.

Hi there, I wanted to thank you for this travel journal and the work it represents. A photo of a house decorated with white drawings reminded me of the Warlis (tribes in northern Mumbai), who would've thought... And then, in Delhi, I really love going to the Lotus Temple. But these days, with the world's turmoil now affecting the region, I’m not sure if I’ll return to India. Thanks again for sharing!

Thanks Mariejo for this lovely travel journal... Another beautiful moment in India... See you soon for the next one!!! Because I think you’re just back from another trip... Anne

Hi Marie Jo. I went there 12 or 15 years ago. I didn’t remember the place anymore, but I recognized the photos.

I recognized the photos Which photos are you talking about?