Drakensberg in August: is it the right time? (page 3 of 4)

Thanks Michel for your feedback. I’ll take the lifeline you’re offering to reassure myself a bit... Is Umhlanga sketchy or not? (Because I think I can still cancel it, well, I need to check...) If it’s okay, I’ll skip the aquarium in Durban and find a Plan B around my accommodation? Or is the aquarium safe and we won’t risk anything? The other thing stressing me out: landing at 10:45 PM at the airport. I booked the first night at the Southern Sun, 400m from the airport. They told me they have a shuttle behind the Intercontinental Hotel and that it’s all good. Do you confirm, or should I order a taxi for 400m? In Graskop, St. Lucia, and Umhlanga, I booked apartments via Booking. Should I avoid eating at restaurants in the evening, or is it possible if we go by car? I hope I can ask the people giving me the keys, but you never know... Otherwise, we’ll have a braai every night! Barbecues are great too!!! For withdrawing cash when I arrive (the next day, not at 10:45 PM on the first night) and doing the first grocery shopping before getting to Graskop, what do you recommend? Are there any roads to absolutely avoid???? A thousand questions in my head, but I shouldn’t overdo it either!!!

"About hikes When a South African says easy It’s probably not that easy Moderate means it’s going to be tough Hard... I’m not going" I take note of the time difference: it’s like when, in Réunion, a Mafatais tells you they take an hour to do a trail (in flip-flops, please), and you take 2 or 3 hours with your sneakers! 😛

Thanks so much, Michel! Malijp

Small clarifications There’s no motorway in South Africa. It’s national roads, with tolls and sometimes divided traffic. The yellow strip along the road isn’t a hard shoulder but a usable space (not for all vehicles—it’s actually indicated on the back of the vehicle) to make overtaking easier. It’s not everywhere. You’ll find the same principle in... Crete! As for the white people in big cars and Black people on foot or on bikes (bikes are rare in South Africa) on that space... It’s... just the kind of remark from someone who doesn’t know this country.

Uncalled-for comment...

Did you notice I put "motorway" and "hard shoulder" in quotes? No. Obviously, it’s not a hard shoulder in the legal sense, but what difference does it make? It’s a strip, as you say, usable by all vehicles—trucks, cars, bikes, and pedestrians... If you haven’t seen bikes, well, I’ve seen them multiple times, and just like pedestrians, they use this "strip" against traffic, risking their lives! And there are plenty of Black pedestrians walking long distances along the edges of these "motorways." Probably those who can’t afford the packed minibuses? I may not know South Africa, just like you know nothing about hiking. Why would a South African, as you say, have a better grasp of hiking difficulty than a foreign hiker? For South Africans, is it easy for tourists, or medium/hard? Where do you get that info?

I’m not the only one making remarks about South Africa, especially about hiking... Here’s one example I noted. Read Willemspie’s comments (very reliable on hiking)—he wrote this in a 2015 discussion:

It’s a forum; people express different opinions, and that’s normal, including about hiking difficulty. Besides, in South Africa, they exaggerate with their safety advice and requirements (like having to hike in groups of 2, 3, or 4 minimum in some countries). Compared to many other countries, it’s easy hiking.

You don’t need to "know" South Africa to compare hiking levels... PS: On the other hand, road mortality in South Africa is very objective. The numbers speak for themselves. South Africa ranks high in the world! :https://www.atlas-mag.net/article/securite-routiere-en-2017 No, no, the roads are very safe—proof being I didn’t have an accident, and neither did you...

Don’t hesitate! Graskop is cool. Where? No worries, either here or in a PM. St Lucia… it’s more than cool. Safety is pretty much a given—the hippos are the most dangerous thing there. Lots of restaurants, including a Portuguese one (Brazzaville) or the old Ocean Basket. Umhlanga… I won’t say much since I don’t know it well.

For money: I order it from home on Yeschange. Get a little at Tambo Airport, then grab more later in Graskop, for example. There are plenty of ATMs.

Tell me your route idea for Graskop. I usually go via Dulstrom—it’s a great spot to grab lunch and do some shopping.

For the hotel: I don’t know… I arrive in Joburg in the morning. Never been to Joburg—if it were Cape Town, I could help! Just follow their recommendations.

Umhlanga—I don’t know it. I think it’s very touristy, and that’s not really my scene.

Eswatini—where are you headed? Only answer if you want. St Lucia: How long are you staying? My to-do list: Isimangaliso all the way to Cape Vidal! A boat tour in the estuary. A beach tour. It’s cool, very touristy South African style. No worries, just relax.

Over 20 trips to Southern Africa in spots even South Africans don’t know, and not a single issue! !

Just read a worrying list of things that happened to travelers in South Africa.

Nothing’s happened to me either in about fifteen trips to the area.

The biggest dangers I’ve faced are wild animals. You always have to be careful with elephants. Never corner them, always give them the right of way, and keep a safe distance. And always keep in mind that just because you don’t see anything doesn’t mean there isn’t an animal watching you. Basically, in the parks, don’t get out of the car just anywhere.

For the city parts, I don’t look for trouble by avoiding slums and other areas known to be dangerous, and I follow the host’s advice for evening outings.

On your route, it’s Johannesburg and Durban where you need to be extra careful.

For driving, I’d say it’s more relaxed than in some parts of France, more civilized... Except on some busy four-lane roads where speeds are too high for the traffic density. No need to race—just keep your own pace and let others pass, even if it means helping them by pulling over to the shoulder.

Michel and Attila, forgive my transgressions. I saw you both as potential weather hazards in August in the Drakensberg, but I never imagined that the catastrophe—so predictable, yet so predictable—would strike here in May.

@Malijp Sorry for the interlude. 😇 - For washing the car on the way back, there are plenty of car washes in the airport area. - Michel is right to suggest bringing your own firewood to Thendele. If you don’t have any left from Kruger, you’ll find some at gas stations (Thendele’s shop sells it but might run out). - Durban’s aquarium is definitely worth a visit, not just for kids. It’s practically on the beach, at the end of a pier, and has secure parking. Minimal risks in this area during the day.

Hi Michel, Two-day disconnect! In GAskrop, I rented a self-catering place that you can find on Booking and Airbnb in the north of the city. It’s great you’re asking how I’m getting there because I’m torn between two options: the direct route Johannesburg–Nelspruit–Gaskrop or the more scenic route Johannesburg–Dullstroom–Lydenburg–Gaskrop. I’m planning to pick up the car at 9 AM at the airport—enough time to handle the paperwork—do you think I’ll have time to take option 2, which I’d much prefer?

In Eswatini, we’re spending two nights at Sondzela. However, I’ve got quite a drive to get there: we’re leaving from Skukuza Rest Camp toward Malelane Gate, and I’ve been advised to take Jeep Reef to enter Eswatini and then head to Sondzela. (They told me it’s a safer route—what do you think?)

In St. Lucia, we’re only staying two nights (gotta make choices! Though since Umdloti—not Umhlanga as I initially said—isn’t far, we’ll still get a good day and a half there).

All your replies have reassured me a bit about the safety aspect. (Night landings still stress me out, but hey, we won’t be alone on the plane!)

I need to finalize the Drakensberg part, and I’m hesitating between two options: - Spending 3 nights in the same place (and it’ll be Royal Natal National Park) since we’ll have done a lot of driving and kilometers, and it’s nice to settle in!) - Splitting it into two parts: like 1 night in Champagne Valley (Emafweni looks stunning in photos, but in August, it might be a bit too high in altitude…?) and 2 nights at Royal Natal. That way, we do a short hike after the first night before heading to RN, and we have a full day for a longer hike at RN. But we’ll be rushing the whole time!!!

It’s tough making choices—this country is so vast, beautiful, and diverse! (I should’ve taken a deep breath because I’ve never been before! But based on what I’ve read in forums and guides, the praise doesn’t seem unwarranted!)

Malijp Malijp

Thanks Atila for your reply! For driving in Kruger, do they give basic advice on how to behave around animals when entering the park or not? After that, I came across a post by Michel that was pretty comprehensive about how to act, and now I have your tips too.... That doesn’t stop it from being a little scary to come face-to-face with an angry giant! Are there any specific tips for dealing with lions or buffaloes (because they’re pretty imposing too!)? I’ll definitely follow your wise advice about listening to the hosts. I just hope I’ll be able to ask them questions since I’ve often booked self-catering places (Graskop, St Lucia, Umdloti). But someone will surely give me the keys.... For Johannesburg, we didn’t have a choice since we’re arriving at 10:45 PM... so it’s one night right near the airport at the Southern Sun OR Tambo. I just hope others from our flight will be staying there too so we’re not the only ones for the hotel shuttle.... (Wouldn’t it be better to order a taxi even for 500m? I don’t know if the place where the taxis wait is safer than where we wait for the shuttle....) For Durban, we’ve only planned to go to uShaka Marine World. Given Voyajou’s message, we should stick with it (I’ll ask our host in Umdloti for their opinion :P), otherwise we’ll find plenty to see around Umdloti. MaliJP

Thanks Voyajou for your feedback. "- Durban Aquarium is definitely worth a visit, and not just for kids. It's practically on the beach, at the end of a pier, and has secure parking. Minimal risks during the day in this area." Did you visit it on a weekday or the weekend? We'll be there on a Sunday—does that change anything security-wise? How much time should we plan for it? I read in a guide that taking a taxi is recommended—so taxi or rental car, which is better? Thanks for the practical details (car wash and firewood)! Malijp

Hi Reply 1 Car at 9 AM You’ll have slept, so in theory You can go via Dulstrom That’s the route I take

Reply 2 I’d base myself in the Royal Natal National Park. You’ll have some great road-trip scenery.

I’m thinking about it— Between Skukuza and Sondzela, it’ll be a looong drive. I wouldn’t have picked this spot. I’d have stopped at Hlane NP— Rhinos right there! And maybe even on foot. Plus, it’s not expensive.

A brochure about elephants is given at the entrance to Kruger. Another animal that can attack a vehicle is the rhinoceros if you get between a mother and her calf.

Lions don’t pose a danger to people as long as they stay in the car and the windows are closed if the animal just passes by. Some lions have nibbled on tires or mirrors as if they were playful kittens.

I’ve experienced arriving at Joburg at night before. Once, I slept quite far away, and another time in an airport hotel. But I already had my rental car.

The important thing is not to respond to any solicitations.

There’s a hotel inside the airport grounds, the City Lodge (not tested).

Lions Roll up the window! That’s the only advice. Generally speaking, movement triggers movement, surprise triggers a reaction, and entering personal space can provoke aggression. If I surprise you by quickly approaching to give you a kiss when we don’t even know each other… You might slap me! It’s the same with elephants. When you see them, you stop, look, and slowly back away. Give them space, a clear path, and keep things calm. If they come toward you, don’t move. So, the less visibility you have overall, the slower you should drive. Never approach an elephant from behind. Don’t speed up thinking you’ll just zoom away to escape… The trick: Finding yourself in the middle of a group? Stay as quiet as possible. Face to face on a narrow path? Either back away gently or make yourself small to the side. Buffalo aren’t really an issue. Actually, the worst is a black or even white rhino. Same rules, but they can be more unpredictable. A charging giraffe is also a thing— there, that should reassure you! The best thing is to speak to them in Zulu or Shangaan with a deep, soft voice. By the way, rangers and others share animal info by naming them in Zulu. The ranger’s face when, after he asked me, I answered him in Zulu about the animals…

Kitty, kitty... The cats are big with huge teeth where you are...

Yep! 😛 😉

A charging giraffe exists too That’s to reassure you !

Personally, it was an ostrich that charged at me.

Especially since they’re not the brightest creatures...

Hi Reply 1 Car at 9 a.m. You’ll have slept, so in theory You can go via Dulstrom That’s the route I take

Deal, going via Dulstrom!

Reply 2 I’d stay at RNNP You’ll have a great road trip

Sold, that matches my first instinct!

Just saying— Between Skukuza and Sondzela it’s gonna be a loooong drive. I wouldn’t have picked this spot. I’d have stopped at Hlane NP... Rhinos right there. And maybe even on foot. Plus, it’s cheap.

How loooong are we talking? (I’m thinking 6–7 hours on the road! More than that?) I’ll look into Hlane—already got a booking at Sondzela and need to check with my travel buddies ;)

A kitten that size could easily puncture a tire, right? Thanks for the feedback on arriving in Johannesburg at night. CityLodge was already full when I checked... Southern Sun OR Tambo is really close—right inside the airport grounds, just a little farther than City Lodge. How did you manage to get a rental car when arriving in the evening? Is that even doable?