Australia 2025: Discovering the 5th Continent (page 3 of 5)

Phillip Island . We need to pick up a vehicle for the rest of our stay. Again, booked through Booking, another "secret vehicle" for 15 days at 36 €/day. Well, a bit less luck this time—it’s a Honda CX3, a small SUV with quite a few miles on it. I’ll try to swap it, but "Rules are Rules," and honestly, the car will do the job...

Back on the Australian roads, we’re between Christmas and New Year’s, peak holiday rush, and you can really feel it in the traffic...

Heading to Cowes, a small seaside town of 3,000 residents (in winter) and a base just 2 hours from Melbourne for those wanting to visit Phillip Island National Park. Three goals for our 3 days and two nights on this island, mostly wildlife-focused: the Penguins, the Seals, and the Koalas. And that’s already not bad!

The little motel we booked for these two nights will do just fine—the room is spacious, has everything we need for breakfast, and there’s even an outdoor kitchen/barbecue area. We settle in quickly and take advantage of this late afternoon for a walk along the coast, on some well-known lookouts. We spot a colony of wallabies, part of the kangaroo family but smaller. We also come across a few not-so-inviting reptiles, luckily napping, and our first echidna, a short-nosed mammal that looks like a hedgehog. The light is beautiful at this time of day, the animals ignore us, and we enjoy the sound of the waves by the seaside.







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The penguins are a bit more complicated. In fact, it was a total bust! The best and pretty much only way to see them is at Summerland Bay, on the south of the island, when they come back for the night. But access is paid, highly sought-after, and requires advance booking due to visitor quotas. And of course, I missed that—no tickets, no penguins! No big deal, we spent the evening on the Cowes promenade, where, thanks to high peak season, plenty of food trucks had set up around a local music stage. For the seals, same story: the rock where they lounge is at the end of the penguin beach, so again, paid and limited access! We made the right call coming here after all! .

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The next day, another highlight of our visit—we head to the Koala Conservation Center, a park entirely dedicated to the animal, with about fifteen specimens. We arrive right at opening and have the place almost to ourselves to admire these magical and adorable creatures. Our first koalas of the trip, not the last, but we got to see these ones up close thanks to the center’s setup. .





A relaxed afternoon, then another evening in the village for a craft and culinary gathering near the Heritage Farm, which prides itself on raising and preserving heritage breeds. .



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We really enjoyed the island—human-sized (100 km²), it had the tranquility of island life but also a genuine local tourist vibe. During our two evenings, we met and chatted with quite a few locals on vacation, who were just as surprised to run into "Frenchies" on their little patch of land. From what we gathered here and there, the island is a weekend getaway spot for Melbourne residents.

But we have to leave this little paradise the next day, and instead of driving around the island and going back through Melbourne, we take a ferry we booked well in advance, which drops us off in Queenscliff, at the gates of the Great Ocean Road, in just half an hour!

Part 4: December 29 to January 2: Great Ocean Road

"The Great Ocean Road (GOR) is a 243-kilometer coastal route along Australia’s southeast coast. It winds through diverse landscapes, from sheer cliffs and famous surf beaches to lush rainforests and charming coastal towns. Built in memory of World War I soldiers, it offers stunning views of the Southern Ocean, including the iconic Twelve Apostles—impressive limestone rock formations." That’s how my guide pitched this legendary route in southern Australia. And we decided to take its advice, dedicating no less than four nights to it: two in Apollo Bay, a small tourist village at its heart, and two in Port Fairy, at the end of the road. From Queenscliff, where we enjoyed a breakfast break after getting off the ferry, it takes about an hour to reach Torquay, the official start of the GOR, then another two hours to Apollo Bay, where we’d set down our bags. .





But the road is packed with spots to stop and admire—whether it’s a pristine nature reserve, a preserved rainforest, a must-see viewpoint, an incredible waterfall, or a breathtaking cliff... We had to make choices, some of which I’m sharing in photos, and it was nearly 8 PM by the time we arrived at the youth hostel in Apollo Bay—one of the few affordable and available accommodations I’d found. Turns out it was a great pick: clean, friendly, and full of interesting conversations with other travelers—not all young backpackers smoking weed... .





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Apollo Bay started as a fishing village, with a population of 1,700. During this ultra-touristy period, it’s transformed into a charming seaside town—four streets, two of them pedestrian, a few seafood restaurants, a Coles, a gas station, and a small amusement park by the beach for kids. We spent two pleasant evenings there, soaking up the holiday vibe. Oh, and that’s also where I confirmed I’d made the right call not renting a campervan—the village’s only campground was *overflowing* with vehicles, even having a line of people waiting for a spot (practically on top of each other!). The next day, we explored the area to dive deeper into the sights and the wildlife that calls it home—Shelly Beach, Cape Otway and its lighthouse, the adjacent reserve, Wyelangta, a primary forest with countless hiking trails. Every stop was a surprise, with such varied and unexpected landscapes. .









Well, sometimes you’ve gotta watch out...

Taking the opportunity for a technical aside: how do you spot koalas in the parks when they're in the trees along the roads? Well, it's like an African safari: there's the animal being photographed... and the photographers! .

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In the evening, it's rosé aperitif on the hostel terrace, shared with a few other travelers, followed by a homemade meal cooked in the communal kitchen. I wanted homemade spaghetti bolognese—is that allowed?

And since it seems I’m the only one reading this travel journal

I’ve also been following this travel journal with great interest from the start! I’m hoping to make a trip to Australia in the next few years with some of the same stops, so I’m eagerly waiting for each new post. Thanks for sharing!

You definitely won’t miss those! 😄

Twelve Apostles . The days pass, it's Tuesday, December 31st, and New Year's Eve awaits us in Port Fairy. Before painting the town red in this festive hotspot of 2,600 residents 🤪, we need to cover the 180 kilometers to get there and, most importantly, visit THE must-see site of the Great Ocean Road: the Twelve Apostles, known as "Twelve Apostles" in the original version. There are actually 3 sites to visit within this "Port Campbell National Park." Yes, we encountered our highest concentration of Asians per square meter on the entire trip, and yes, it was packed, but the flow was smooth, and the facilities are scaled accordingly.

Rather than words, I’ll let a series of photos of this magical place speak for themselves in the next post. . To the right of the photo, the promontory set up for visitors.

Exploring the area took us (leisurely) the whole day, and it was around 5 PM when we picked up our keys at the guesthouse in Port Fairy. What we didn’t know was that this peaceful historic coastal village, with its many intact 19th-century buildings and lively fishing port, is famous for its annual folk festival held in March.

What we also didn’t know was that tonight, Port Fairy was celebrating with a street parade, commercial events, food trucks, and two massive fireworks displays—rivals to Sydney’s 😄—one at 9 PM for the kids and another at midnight for the adults. Our guesthouse faced the main street, so we settled on the sidewalk to watch the parade with great interest before enjoying a New Year’s Eve sausage and fries (ketchup and mustard, of course!) and then catching the kids' fireworks. The day’s fatigue meant we couldn’t wait until midnight.

Can you recognize this animal? (Ten points for the correct answer!)





Sydney can eat its heart out... . January 1st was all about taking it easy. The car stayed parked, and we enjoyed the town, its port, and the attached Griffiths Island, where we strolled among birds and were accompanied by plenty of wallabies. .



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We spent two days living in the heart of rural Australia—deep, white Australia, to be precise. But tomorrow, a long drive awaits us. Current events force us to change our plans, and we’re heading to Adelaide, 600 kilometers to the west. But why Adelaide, you ask?

Are these spaghetti bolognese given an Australian twist with kangaroo meat in the sauce? 😛 (I know they export it to Réunion—it’s where I tried it as a steak. So I guess it’s on the menu there and at the butcher’s?)

The "French" bread and cheese at the world food stand were a letdown...

Can you recognize this animal?

The platypus?

Are these spaghetti bolognese revamped Australian-style with kangaroo meat in the sauce? 😛 ( They export it to Réunion, that's where I tried this meat as a steak. So I guess it's on the menu there and at the butcher's?)

We don’t joke about Bolognese here—nope, 100% beef. Even the Parmesan was Australian 🏴‍☠️ Yeah, you can find kangaroo meat pretty easily, but it was clearly a divorce-level issue if I got too close to it …

The French bread and cheese at the world food stand were pitiful...

What do you think of the Chinese Duck?

This travel journal smells like vacation! 🙂

I totally agree with the hostel concept: cheaper, and great encounters. At first, I thought I’d be surrounded by young people and feel out of place, but honestly, I didn’t see many young travelers!

Can’t wait to read the rest since Adelaide seems to be your favorite city!

Can you recognize this animal?

The platypus?

Platypus in English, the platypus is an endangered species endemic to Australia. 10 points for Agnès! We tried in vain to spot one during a nighttime walk by a lake on Kangaroo Island—the animal is very shy!

This travel journal smells like vacation! :) I totally approve of the hostel concept: cheaper, great encounters. At first, I thought I’d be surrounded by young people and feel out of place, but honestly, I didn’t see many young folks at all!

The ones we stayed at were still mostly filled with young people taking advantage of the low-cost dorms. The minimum condition (for us) of having private rooms really bumps up the price—we were at nearly 100 €/night, shared bathroom.

Can’t wait for the rest since Adelaide seems to be your favorite city-wise

Maybe it’s also because one of my daughters lived there...

Before leaving this magnificent place, here are a few views of the Twelve Apostles site.

From below, .



From the right, . Zoomed in, .

From the left, .



From the side, .





I’ll just say that framing your photos really makes a difference here: .

Part 5: January 2–6: Adelaide . First off, I should mention that ever since Melbourne, we’ve been closely following local news updates. The reason for this sudden interest?

The fires! They’ve been raging for days in Grampians National Park, fueled by the heat and fanned by the wind. And as you’ve memorized our itinerary, you know that after the Great Ocean Road, we were supposed to head up to Halls Gap in the heart of the park for two nights—a mountain getaway—before making our way down to Kangaroo Island over two more nights...

We had to face the facts, and a chat with our host confirmed it: even though he wasn’t directly affected by the fires, the road to Halls Gap was closed to traffic. And even if it weren’t, the area wasn’t exactly in a “welcome, tourists!” mood.

He went ahead and canceled our two nights at no charge, and I’ll do the same (also fee-free, thanks Booking) for the next two nights. We decided to head straight to Adelaide for four extra nights. Not because we’re die-hard fans of the city, but because the ferry to Kangaroo Island is fully booked, and I can’t change it. Plus, in the area, Adelaide’s the only hub worth staying in without switching accommodations every day—something we’re not up for.

So, a long transfer day ahead: over 600 km without highways in that stretch. Nearly 8 hours on the road, including stops, and we’ll arrive in Adelaide around 3 PM.

Just to clarify, I drive over 40,000 km a year for work and have been doing so for 30+ years—if I didn’t like driving, we’d have a problem! .

Adelaide, here we come! We instantly fell in love with this city. The metro area is huge—over a million people—but the city itself is human-sized, with just 30,000 residents.

And my guide sells it well: "Adelaide is a cosmopolitan coastal city known for its laid-back vibe and high quality of life. Nicknamed 'the city of churches' and 'the city of festivals,' it offers a harmonious blend of culture, nature, and gastronomy. You’ll find lush parks along the River Torrens, world-class museums, a bustling central market, and beaches just minutes from downtown. Adelaide is also a gateway to famous wine regions like the Barossa Valley and McLaren Vale."

That’s our plan for the next four days, plus the surprising train museum, the modern art museum, the immigration museum, the botanical garden, the beaches and piers at Glenelg (accessible by tram from downtown), rooftop evening drinks, Italian restaurants, and more... All topped off by the stunning 17th-floor apartment at the pool and spa hotel I snagged last-minute.

Four super chill days ahead, mixing history, geography, art, food, wine, and relaxation by the sea or pool—all of which I’ll let you discover through the photos.

Avani Adelaide Residences, south tower

And their waffles for breakfast!



Rundle Mall

University church

19th-century building

Botanical garden in the heart of the city

Glenelg Beach

And what do you think of the Peking Duck? LOL

It looks like an old dried-up beef heart...

A cultural moment from travel:

Museum of Modern Art

Immigration Museum University Library Train Museum Barossa Valley If that’s culture too! !

I nearly fell out of the gum tree when I read the title (Australia 2025: Discovering the 6th Continent). What, these intrepid explorers went off to sort trash in the Pacific!? I thought I’d done the global tour of the five continents.

When I saw the trip route afterward, I thought a kangaroo had overdone it on the Foster’s. But then, it’s actually cool—don’t worry, be happy or carpe diem.

Do you know more about that amazing "studded" sculpture at the Migration Museum?

If you don’t know them, I recommend checking out Kenneth Cook’s wild stories (*Killer Koala*, *Wombat Revenge*, and others).

@Attila

The French bread and cheese at the World Food stand was pitiful...

That’s because Lou Bayrou isn’t running the French stand at the Worldwide Restaurant, while J.D. Vance (Vice President) is running the U.S. one.

I nearly fell out of the gum tree reading the title. What, these intrepid explorers went off to sort waste in the Pacific!? I thought I’d done the world tour of the five continents.

Hi Jean-Luc! I was wondering who and where that comment came from 😉

When I saw the route afterward, I thought of a kangaroo that had overdone the Foster’s. But then, it’s cool—don’t worry, be happy or carpe diem.

Carpe diem could be my mantra...

Do you know more about that fantastic "studded" sculpture at the Migration Museum?

Actually, the photo was taken at the Museum of Modern Art, not the Migration Museum. I admit the caption and sequence of photos might be confusing.

To answer your question, thanks to the magic of the internet, I found this: (sorry, it’s in the original language)

https://www.agsa.sa.gov.au/collection-publications/collection/works/twin-subjecter/26213/

But this museum, which we really enjoyed, had other magnificent works—some quite unsettling—that I didn’t post to avoid overloading the travel journal. Here are three more for you:







. JD Vance! How could I not have recognized him! Especially since in Port Fairy, the genotype of the population we met was totally in the MAGA spirit (Make Australia Great Again, of course!)

Part 6: January 6th to 9th: Kangaroo Island.

We knew as we set off for Kangaroo Island that we’d be experiencing some of the highlights of our trip there. Three nights on the island—the mandatory ferry didn’t allow for extra nights—and the prospect of our last "wild" corner of Australia.

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For this final leg, I’d booked a campsite in the middle of the national park—well, a air-conditioned bungalow within the camp (though I’ll admit I eyed the amazing Australian caravans our neighbors had with envy).



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The choice was spot-on—we spent those three nights outdoors, lulled by the sound of birds, watched by koalas clinging to the tree branches, and joined morning and evening by kangaroos that hung around the camp looking for leftover food from other campers.



We’d also been warned that the island had changed a lot since 2020, and for a tragic reason: fire. It was indeed in December 2019 that 90% of the island was hit by one of the worst bushfires Australia has ever seen. We’d all seen the awful images of charred animals on TV. Just one photo I found on social media versus my own reality will give you an idea:



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But nature is reclaiming its rights, and we docked around noon at Penneshaw, the island’s main port, after a peaceful 2-hour drive from Adelaide, with the car and trunk fully loaded. The gas stations and shops tend to charge a premium for their remoteness, and then there’s the hour-long ferry ride. Our first stop was a foodie one—I’d had my eye on this oyster farm for a while. The pre-shucked oysters you find in plastic trays at supermarkets just didn’t inspire confidence. Nothing beats getting them straight from the source, and the rosé had been chilling in the cooler since morning!

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After lunch, we settled into our bungalow at the other end of the island, about 100 kilometers away, right at the entrance of Flinders Chase National Park. The vibe was pure vacation—access by ferry alone keeps the tourist crowds in check. Four days wasn’t enough to take in all the island’s must-see spots. In no particular order:

- Flinders Chase National Park, with its many hiking trails and home to the "Remarkable Rocks" and "Admirals Arch," rock formations sculpted by the wind.

- Seal Bay Conservation Park, where you can finally get up close with sea lions.

- Hanson Bay Wildlife Sanctuary, famous for spotting wild koalas.

- Little Sahara, impressive sand dunes accessible via a trail.

- Vivonne Bay, often ranked among Australia’s most beautiful beaches.

- Cape Willoughby Lightstation, a historic lighthouse surrounded by hiking paths.

- Kingscote, the island’s largest town, perfect for an evening stroll.

But we also had *plenty* of wildlife encounters (arachnophobes, look away!)

And since the 10-photo limit per post is quickly reached, here’s a little post to showcase this gem of Australia:



Vivonne Bay



White sands



Seals Conservation Center





Remarkable Rocks sunset