Day 7 – August 16, 2025
Back in March 1994, during a philosophy exam, I tackled the question "What is audacity?" Confident in my abilities, I simply answered that it was renting a scooter in Yogyakarta, riding it to Borobudur to visit its world-famous temple, then continuing on the long, winding road up to the Dieng Plateau with the intention of spending the night there. I got a 4 out of 20 with the comment, "My sweet dreamer, that’s not audacity—it’s purely impossible!" So today’s the day. The day I prove to my old teacher that it’s totally doable and that I deserved the only above-average grade I ever got in philosophy during my senior year! "Mr. Labeyrie from Lycรฉe Monges in Charleville-Mรฉziรจres, if you’re not dead and somehow stumble upon this philosophical travel journal by some lucky chance, know that I fully intend to show you today that you were wrong! And, if that’s the case, please reconsider my grade!"
You’ve probably figured it out by now—the real kickoff to our Javanese scooter road trip is happening right now. From our base camp in Yogyakarta, we’re setting out to explore widely, with our first goal for tonight being the town of Dieng after four hours on a road that’s notoriously tough on paper. "You want to go all the way to Dieng by scooter? Are you serious?" I get the feeling the rental guy is in cahoots with my philosophy teacher...
But this day isn’t just about riding for the sake of it—there are plenty of points of interest checked off along the way. The first stop is just on the outskirts of Yogyakarta, where we pay a quick visit to a very old lady who’s been the queen of Yogyakarta’s street food scene for nearly 70 years! She sets up on the sidewalk at Lupis Mbah Satinem from six to nine every single day, offering her take on local breakfast dishes. After tasting her food, I totally get why everyone raves about Grandma Nova’s cooking!

An hour later in traffic, our next stop is Setumbu Hill, famous for its clear views of the jungle and the Borobudur temple. If you’re ever thinking of doing a scooter road trip in the area, I’d recommend skipping this stop—it’ll save you time and the unjustified 50,000 rupiahs per person they charge at the entrance!

That said, just a short distance away, a stop at the Chicken Church is a must just for how unique the place is. Despite what the name suggests, it’s not really a church. Nor is it a chicken, for that matter. From what we gathered on-site, it’s actually supposed to be a dove, a symbol of peace. Either way, the building is original, the place is peaceful, and it’s open to all faiths.

After Flo said a little prayer to her new god, the esteemed "chicken satay with peanut sauce," we finally got to the number one reason for our trip in the area. I’d even say Borobudur is the reason I’ve been dying to visit Yogyakarta for years. Okay, but what *is* Borobudur? Borobudur is the photo from April 4th on the spiral-bound calendar that’s been on my desk for over 20 years. Just the name Borobudur has always fascinated me. Borobudur is nothing less than the largest Buddhist temple in the *entire* world! Built in the ninth century, this giant mandala with nine levels symbolizes the different stages to reach nirvana. Unfortunately, it was buried under lava from a major eruption of the nasty Mount Merapi in the eleventh century, then smothered by vegetation, so the temple pretty much disappeared from the radar until the nineteenth century, when it was rediscovered and cleared by two hundred villagers who got it back on its feet... though not for long. The sheer weight of the thing was slowly sinking it into the soft ground, dooming it to certain collapse. So, which superhero do we call in a situation like this? Unescoman, of course! In the early 1980s, UNESCO dismantled and numbered all two million stone blocks one by one to rebuild it exactly as it was on new concrete foundations. If you’re a huge Lego fan, apply to UNESCO—they’re hiring!







So, was all that effort—and money—worth it? Undeniably, yes! The temple is both massive and imposing, yet finely sculpted, exuding a rare spiritual elegance. I even found some similarities to what I felt a few years ago when I visited the temples of Angkor in Cambodia.